Engine Oil

[kiet88]

Hi Guys,

I have a 96 DC4 with 140,000 km on the dial.

What engine oil would you guys recommend.

Guys @ Autobarn/supercheap recommend 10W-40 Castrol Magnetec.

What you guy think?

Cheers

[aaronng]

Magnatec 10w-40 works fine. I prefer a synthetic though.

[marky53]

i just use honda feo oil, its 10w 30... it meets manufacturers standards and is only $30 for 5 litres... i buy the oil and give it to my own mechanic at services and always have some left over for top ups..... cant go wrong

[lOstd]

honda oil ftw lol

[FEL12X]

yeh i am using honda oil, but i find that when they get close to 5000kms, u can really feel the car need a service/oil change

and do u guys usually flush the engine before oil change?
does it matter if different brand oil used before?

[kiet88]

ill probably go with the honda oil for my next oil change.

I'd assume i can just buy it from any honda service centre?

[aaronng]

yeh i am using honda oil, but i find that when they get close to 5000kms, u can really feel the car need a service/oil change

and do u guys usually flush the engine before oil change?
does it matter if different brand oil used before?

I felt the same thing with Magnatec as well. With sedate city driving, it started gettign rough at 7000km.

No, I don't flush the engine. If you change oil regularly, you don't need to flush it. And if you change brands, you don't need to flush either. i've gone from mineral to hydrocracked synthetic (technically a mineral oil) to PAO synthetic and then back down to hydrocracked again.

[FEL12X]

hm..i heard thats no good to mix mineral and synthetic oil...my mech said that will make some sort of residue or something stuck to the engine, dont really know what they talking about but anyway i will stick to oem oil, but then he said my car is getting old and should use thicker oil, 10-30 is not enough for my 140000km engine

[aaronng]

hm..i heard thats no good to mix mineral and synthetic oil...my mech said that will make some sort of residue or something stuck to the engine, dont really know what they talking about but anyway i will stick to oem oil, but then he said my car is getting old and should use thicker oil, 10-30 is not enough for my 140000km engine

No, mixing it won't cause residue. Synthetic oils are also formulated to be compatible with mineral oils. Only a few synthetics are not compatible with mineral oils (and also other synthetic oils). One of the Motul 300V range is like that.

Are you having oil consumption problems when you use 10w-30 oil on your engine?

[<4n'D>]

i beleive synthetic oil has higher longevity than feo, which is mineral oil...

something else worth considering

[kiet88]

i purchased the catrol magnetec because the guy @ the shop told me it was a semi synthetic and it would last longer and ber beter for my engine.

then i went home looked around abd discovered by bro had the Mobil 1 10w-40 - which i think is full synethic

i still used the magnetec cause i need an oil change.

too many to think about for nxt oil change

[LiL FiLo]

i use honda feo personally, i find that the honda oil it burns a bit quicker than the castrol magnetec (especially when vtec happy) but, the castrol tends to get dirtier quicker....

if you want a good oil and wiling to pay the price mobil one gold (full synthetic) is a good way to go

[FEL12X]

the engine doesnt take any oil but when i have oil change after using FEO , if ind that the oil become very thin, unlike before when i was using shell helix plus sport (long time ago, dont think they still selling this oil), and when start up i can hear tapplet noise abit ( i just have it adjust 1000ks ago)

FEO oil make me feel they can be only use for 5000ks max, and others can last up to 10000ks...but i never change oil later then 5000ks

[aaronng]

If you want a thicker oil at startup, then see if there are any 15w-40 oils out there.

[vincikwan]

u guys think that 0w-30 or 5w-30 is ok for the dc2r?

[ricki_kalsi]

Mr Ichimichi San from Spoon says NO to engine oil flush! :)

I use Castrol 5W - 40 for street!

The thinner the more fun I say! :)

[ricki_kalsi]

u guys think that 0w-30 or 5w-30 is ok for the dc2r?

I have used 0W - 40 Castol Edge before...
Very nice oil... it's okay when it's freaking COLLDDDDD. But I wouldn't use it in warmer months. 0W oils break down at lower temps than higher weight oils.

5W-30 is good.

[aaronng]

I have used 0W - 40 Castol Edge before...
Very nice oil... it's okay when it's freaking COLLDDDDD. But I wouldn't use it in warmer months. 0W oils break down at lower temps than higher weight oils.

5W-30 is good.

0W has the same viscosity as 5W.
No, 0W doesn't break down at lower temperature.

[ricki_kalsi]

Oh noess... did I just mess up.

[DOHCVTEC]

I have used Honda FEO for the last 7 years in my DC2R but I have recently changed to Motul 300V 10W-40.

Is this new Motul oil compatible? If not, what's going to happen?



No, mixing it won't cause residue. Synthetic oils are also formulated to be compatible with mineral oils. Only a few synthetics are not compatible with mineral oils (and also other synthetic oils). One of the Motul 300V range is like that.

Are you having oil consumption problems when you use 10w-30 oil on your engine?

[aaronng]

I have used Honda FEO for the last 7 years in my DC2R but I have recently changed to Motul 300V 10W-40.

Is this new Motul oil compatible? If not, what's going to happen?
Yes, from Motul's data sheet, it can mix with regular oils. You'll be fine.

[DOHCVTEC]

Thanks, Aaron...

Phew, that certainly alleviate my concerns.


Yes, from Motul's data sheet, it can mix with regular oils. You'll be fine.

[vincikwan]

What ratings do you guys reccomend for the DC2R for the track? I am currently using Honda FEO. Do i need to use a thicker oil to protect the engine on track or its ok to leave it at Honda FEO?

[aaronng]

What ratings do you guys reccomend for the DC2R for the track? I am currently using Honda FEO. Do i need to use a thicker oil to protect the engine on track or its ok to leave it at Honda FEO?
FEO is alright. Bring a spare bottle along and check in between sessions for oil consumption and top up if required.

[vincikwan]

Righto. Thanks mate.

[Sp00ny]

Hi,

I would recommend Fuchs SUPER GTO, its a full synthetic for around $50 coupled with a K&N Oil Filter, Ive been using it on my DC2 the oil is still crystal clear and hasnt burnt a drop after 4,000kms...makes me have second thoughts on the 5k interval service, even though i will.

Best thing is the nut for easy removal on the K&N and the fact its only $2 more expensive than oem, and filters noticably better. Note that i was using Mobil Synergy 98Octane throughout tests.

Note: Ive tried motul oils in my own engine and other honda's and it just seems to make the engine to chattery(noisy) and burns (not a significant amount but noticable). Both oils are 10w30.

Kind Regards,
Andrew

[vincikwan]

So i guess anything higher that 30(when hot) is just slowing the engine down right?

[aaronng]

So i guess anything higher that 30(when hot) is just slowing the engine down right?

It doesn't slow it down by much.

[ricki_kalsi]

Just saw oil test today :)

Royal Purple is best oil but most exxy oil, and there was virtually NO wear on teh test bearing - 10W-40 for track is good. I'm trying it in April, will let you guys know how it is.

Suprisingly, Motul, pennzoil and Mobil 1 (There were more that should have stood out, don't member which ones) are all quite shitty - even the higher grade oils.

Castol Edge is moderate. Good protection, and price isn't too bad. I use on a regular basis, and has always been kind to me. Have only heard good things from ISMR customers and others.

Valvoline Duralex, and Penrite takes the cake. I have used Valvoline before, thinking it would blow my engine... but it was great. I used 10W-50(Or 40 can't member), lost a bit of power, as it's thick, but was told it had great protection. Seems I was told right according to the tests.
Penrite oil was nearly as good as the Valvoline stuff.

[aaronng]

How was the test conducted? If they were pressing down on the bearing to get scouring, then that is not the correct test for engine oil.

[slidetaker]

Just saw oil test today :)

Royal Purple is best oil but most exxy oil, and there was virtually NO wear on teh test bearing..........

Are you talking about the test conducted by some Holden car magz? I know that there was a recent test of engine oil where the oils were not tested inside an engine...:honda:

I am also wondering is there any difference when the bottles printed "Fully Synthetic" rather than "100&#37; Synthetic"?

Castrol, Shell, Valvoline, Pennzoil all printed "Fully" while and only Motul, Mobil printed "100%". Are these "Fully" more likely to contain hydrocracked minerals rather than the "100%" that likely to contain more PAO stockbases????:confused:

Perhaps the pricing on these engine oils give a hint too. These "Fully Synthetic" 5W40 are all $58 pretty exact. While the Motul and Moil are $68 pretty exact too, which is 10 bucks more for these two "100% Synthetic"...

[aaronng]

Castrol, Shell, Valvoline, Pennzoil all printed "Fully" while and only Motul, Mobil printed "100%". Are these "Fully" more likely to contain hydrocracked minerals rather than the "100%" that likely to contain more PAO stockbases????:confused:

Perhaps the pricing on these engine oils give a hint too. These "Fully Synthetic" 5W40 are all $58 pretty exact. While the Motul and Moil are $68 pretty exact too, which is 10 bucks more for these two "100% Synthetic"...
Look at it on a case-by-case basis. Example, Castrol Edge 5w-30 is hydrocracked, but the Edge 0w-40 is PAO. Both say fully synthetic.

[ricki_kalsi]

How was the test conducted? If they were pressing down on the bearing to get scouring, then that is not the correct test for engine oil.

No idea how it was conducted.

[aaronng]

No idea how it was conducted.

Then I wouldn't place much faith in it. Anyone can change the test method to make a product look good.

[VTECACCORD]

I'd look into Amsoil if you do a lot of track use, they were one of the first to make a truely synthetic oil.

Great for track use.

[ricki_kalsi]

Then I wouldn't place much faith in it. Anyone can change the test method to make a product look good.


Well the fact that it was done by a 3rd party, and wasn't on a specific product does it for me. It surely wasn't a marketing ploy.

They did the same test in a controlled environment, so to me that proves which oils are on top of what. If you choose not to believe them, don't. I have been using these types of oil, trying the 'good' ones that have been tested - and they are awsome.

[aaronng]

Well the fact that it was done by a 3rd party, and wasn't on a specific product does it for me. It surely wasn't a marketing ploy.

They did the same test in a controlled environment, so to me that proves which oils are on top of what. If you choose not to believe them, don't. I have been using these types of oil, trying the 'good' ones that have been tested - and they are awsome.

Try the "bad" ones as well (make sure they are the correct viscosity for your engine), you'll be surprised.
I'm saying this because there are many of these 3rd party comparison tests that are carried out using the wrong method that in the end present information that is not relevant to engine lubrication. Just like that oil test article from the Holden forum. The test method they used was for gear oil, but they applied it to engine oil instead, which doesn't return meaningful information because the method that friction is generated in an engine is different to that in a gearbox.

[Sp00ny]

Well the fact that it was done by a 3rd party, and wasn't on a specific product does it for me. It surely wasn't a marketing ploy.

They did the same test in a controlled environment, so to me that proves which oils are on top of what. If you choose not to believe them, don't. I have been using these types of oil, trying the 'good' ones that have been tested - and they are awsome.

Adding a quick word to aaronng's comments.

Not trying to start a riot here, but how do you come to your conclusion that the oils are "awesome"? I mean I know people that have only run OEM mineral in (10k service intervals) and after 300,000kms there cars still run well and show well under compression tests. Even when i made the comment about the FUCHS oil its only based on colour, burning volume, engine noise and torque band. Even that isnt really enough to prove the oil is that great.

What aaronng is trying to say is that if the tests were conducted in a way that is irrelevent or not well suited to the use of engine oil then the data gathered is inconclusive at the very least.

Important Note: Just because they are the 3rd party doesnt exclude them from bias. A motor vehicle magazines opinions or conclusions are most likely going to have an effect on an audience, otherwise what would be the point of even publishing it? Thus attracting attention of Motor Oil Companies, there is no proof to say that penrite didnt pay them or financially support their research, thus the possibility of bias exists.

BTW, My self and 2 other friends have tried penrite oil in gearbox's and although it is a gearbox and not engine, i can tell you their Transmission products are absolute garbage. All of us experienced very noticable notching in third/second and stiffer changing all around. The gear changes were horrible at high rpm. My transmission seemed to be in better condition so the notching was rare but stiff changing was always there. And the absolute inability to cope with wide temperature ranges. We replaced it with OEM MTF mineral oil and havnt looked back, smooth gear changes and no notching whatsoever. One used a Mineral Based Penrite oil and other two were using the "SIN" synthetic transmission oil and they were both the same viscosity. I find it hard to believe that the quality of Penrite's transmission oils and Engine oils would differ greatly if even at all.

Kind Regards,
Andrew

[kikxz]

i use Penrite HPR 15 semi-synthetic and it runs nicely in my LS but you can tell the difference when its almost time to service

[slidetaker]

Look at it on a case-by-case basis. Example, Castrol Edge 5w-30 is hydrocracked, but the Edge 0w-40 is PAO. Both say fully synthetic.

Where can I obtain that information? Is that on a website somewhere?

The same goes for the "recent words that Catrol and Mobil have switched to Group 3 instead of PAO for their Fully Synthetic range"....anyone knows the sources for this???

[aaronng]

Nope, Castrol will only tell you if you ask them. Some guys on the Ducati forum called up Castrol and confirmed that 5w-30 is Group 3, while 0w-40 is Group 4.

[EGJOE]

Hey guys
So is it better to use say like castrol edge 5w-30 and change every 5000 or
Use like royal purple or motul 300v (double ester based) and do every 10,000?

Cheers
EGJOE

[AzKik-R]

If you wanna see something awesome then check out Pro-Ma MBL8, mix it with any oil you like. it coats everything with micro particles of brass and copper, which are metals, but they are metalic lubricants. Has anyone heard of it? or is anyone using it?
there's a demo video online somewhere which shows the friction tests.

[EG30]

Hey guys
So is it better to use say like castrol edge 5w-30 and change every 5000 or
Use like royal purple or motul 300v (double ester based) and do every 10,000?

Cheers
EGJOE

The Castrol Edge 5w30 is my fav oil when cost is taken into consideration, it's discounted 2-3 times a year at supercheap auto and I've seen them as cheap as $29.95 which makes it a real steal.

It's marketed as the softec 5w-30 in North American markets as a cheap synthetic and on engine oil forums ppl often debate if this is a real synthetic oil since it's group 3 mineral based oil hydrocracked etc....

Compared to its bigger brother the Edge 0w-40, apart from the viscosity diff and the group 3 vs group 4 PAO category diff; the 0w40 qualifies as a longlife oil for many European car spec where the service intervals varies and could be as long as 28000km-35000km between oil changes. In the Case of M-Benz the long life spec is 229.5 and under Castrol's banner it's the SLX 0w-40, the edge 0w40 doesnt advertise to meet 229.5 but if you read the spec sheet it says it closely relates to the SLX 0w40. Whether they put the same oil under different containers and market them differently I don't know.

If you change your oil every 5000kms and buy a cheaper non long life/non exotic brand it's a very smart move.

I had the Castrol 5w30 in my AMG Merc for 8150kms and had an oil analysis done and it was spot on, and another one at 13000kms and it was much the same and I changed it anyway. Factory drain intervals are 15000kms for my car. The engine is defintaly more response and more economical compared to the more $$$ 0W40 I had in the car before. Mind you the car has a big 7L sump, and with 385Nm of torque in an automatic car I hardly have to rev it past 3K in everyday driving; thus hardly killing the oil at all times.

[EGJOE]

Thanks EG30 good info :thumbsup:

[neut]

can someone come up with a final conclusion to this thread? what oil we should use etc etc and what brand =___='; lol

[slidetaker]

can someone come up with a final conclusion to this thread? what oil we should use etc etc and what brand =___='; lol

Depends on application, what car, mileage, driving style, OCI (oil change interval).

However, general speaking for average joe, Castrol Edge 5w30 seems to be the bang for buck in this forum.:honda:

[aaronng]

can someone come up with a final conclusion to this thread? what oil we should use etc etc and what brand =___='; lol

If you change your oil every 5000km, Honda FEO because of the sub $30 price. If you change your oil every 10,000km/6 months, Castrol Edge 5w-30 for $50, because FEO doesn't seem to last even 8000km (engine becomes rough).

[digital_tearz]

jst bought my dc2 need to do an oil change
what do u guys think of
Valvoline&#174; SynGard 10W-40 or Valvoline MaxLife 20W/50 Synthetic Blend

[aaronng]

jst bought my dc2 need to do an oil change
what do u guys think of
Valvoline® SynGard 10W-40 or Valvoline MaxLife 20W/50 Synthetic Blend

For the price, Mobil Synth S 10w-40 for $33. Can't be beat for a semi-synthetic.

[slidetaker]

jst bought my dc2 need to do an oil change
what do u guys think of
Valvoline® SynGard 10W-40 or Valvoline MaxLife 20W/50 Synthetic Blend

SynGard 10W40 suits Honda DC2 better than 20W50 in viscosity.
I think Valvoline make a SynPower 5w40 full syn that should be better.

[EG30]

can someone come up with a final conclusion to this thread? what oil we should use etc etc and what brand =___='; lol

A lot depends on personal preference, apart from technical differences. Bit like your fav beer or ciggarettes really. If the product does the job AND floats your boat then all the better.

Another factor is of course price. Since there is always a brand X model B engine oil for sale every single week at outlet Y and Z all over Australia throughout the year; There are some oil can be pretty mediocare bang for your buck but decent buy when they are heavily discounted.

The perfect example of which is the Castrol Edge 5w30, which is about $50 rrp. At the moment it's discounted down to $29.90 at SCA till 25-5-08 ( for WA at least ); which makes it an obsolute bargain compared to $ 32.50 for Valvoline 10w30, and $28-30 for FEO, $37-38 for Shell 10W30. Last time this offer was on late in 2007 the product flew off the shelves in Perth and sold out in 4-5 days. I've already stock up half a doz bottles myself. From past experience, this 5w30 oil gets heavily discounted about 3-4 times a year at SCA.

So if it's on sale where you are, do yourself a favour and grab a bottle and see for yourself. Provided your engine is not too worn to use this viscosity, I'm sure you can feel it's low drag and slippery properties and a better stay-in grade than say a quality mineral based 10w30.

[absolutR]

honda feo or motul i reckon. that motul stuff is beautiful. smells like honey. n the honda feo was what our cars were gererally designed for so i reckon those 2 are the best.