vtec-dr
19-02-2008, 04:13 PM
Do it yourself Mugen Style Airbox Modifications
Lift the hood and cut an opening above the grill to let air into the airbox. The opening will be above the radiator and between the upper radiator hose and radiator mounting brace. I left a flap and bent it up so that it would touch the closed hood and direct more air into the opening
Remove part of the hood seal as pictured to allow more air flow.
Upper left: you can open up the side, or leading edge of the stock intake horn to let the cold air rush into the intake pipe. To get more air into the intake and airbox you can get a 3" to 4" rubber plumbing adaptor from your local hardware store to work as the air inlet. Next get a 3" duct, preferably something with a smooth bore and able to withstand some heat. Aluminum ducting is not ideal because it absorbs heat so quickly.
Next you will want to open up the airbox as recommended by Hondata, here is a link to the article.
http://www.hondata.com/kseriesairboxmod.html
A K&N Air filter will also help keep the air moving quickly to the engine. K&N Part# E-2429
Despite the smaller diameter the K&N filter has 52% more surface area
and allows the air to circulate around the filter for even better flow.
E-Mail Us Here: todd@teamspirit.net
Step 2 If you want to add insulation or use a SRI intake system.
The aluminum heat shield is wrapped around the sides and bottom of the stock airbox.
A gap of .25" to .4" is maintained between the plastic and heat shield everywhere except a couple areas that space does not permit it.
After driving around with a dual probe digital thermometer, one on the intake filter in the airbox and one measuring ambient temperature, I find the intake air to be within 1 to 2 degrees of ambient as long as the car is moving 30 mph or more. The temperature does rise 5 to 12 degrees when I sit in traffic. This is all the proof I need to enclose the airbox the rest of the way.
I finished sealing the box up and the results have be fantastic.
First I pulled the SRI and the airbox out and covered everything with packing tape and covered the opening with cardboard and tape to form the shape I wanted. Next I put three layers of fiberglass over the tape and let it set up.
The fiberglass part of the top has a 5/8" foam insulation layer on the inside for a couple reasons. It does a great job sealing all the small gaps around the bottom and with a 1.5" cut for the valve cover breather tube the foam seals around the tube easily. I plan to do a little more insulating before I am done and I probably will not paint it because it may end up covered with more of that silver insulation heat shield.
So far the temperatures look very low, but I may need a new location for my ambient temperature pickup because I am getting lower temps in the intake than ambient at times. I put the ambient pickup in the drivers side fender right behind the small crack between the body and the headlight and I notice a small rise in ambient as soon as the sun pops out. The intake temps rises the most after I have been driving and the car sits for 30 minutes or so, but after 5 minutes back on the road temps are right back down to, or close to, ambient. If I am stopped on the freeway the intake can be 10-12 deg. above ambient, but normal city driving seems to be the best with temperatures -1 to 3 degrees from ambient. This seems perfect because city driving is when the hp is the most fun, if you are not on a track. Interestingly the temps are just a little higher at constant freeway speed, around 3-5 degrees above ambient. It may be because air is not being used as quickly as it is being introduced so you get that little bubble of air in front of the air inlet.
want pics goto this site http://www.davincitandems.com/rsx/intake.html
Lift the hood and cut an opening above the grill to let air into the airbox. The opening will be above the radiator and between the upper radiator hose and radiator mounting brace. I left a flap and bent it up so that it would touch the closed hood and direct more air into the opening
Remove part of the hood seal as pictured to allow more air flow.
Upper left: you can open up the side, or leading edge of the stock intake horn to let the cold air rush into the intake pipe. To get more air into the intake and airbox you can get a 3" to 4" rubber plumbing adaptor from your local hardware store to work as the air inlet. Next get a 3" duct, preferably something with a smooth bore and able to withstand some heat. Aluminum ducting is not ideal because it absorbs heat so quickly.
Next you will want to open up the airbox as recommended by Hondata, here is a link to the article.
http://www.hondata.com/kseriesairboxmod.html
A K&N Air filter will also help keep the air moving quickly to the engine. K&N Part# E-2429
Despite the smaller diameter the K&N filter has 52% more surface area
and allows the air to circulate around the filter for even better flow.
E-Mail Us Here: todd@teamspirit.net
Step 2 If you want to add insulation or use a SRI intake system.
The aluminum heat shield is wrapped around the sides and bottom of the stock airbox.
A gap of .25" to .4" is maintained between the plastic and heat shield everywhere except a couple areas that space does not permit it.
After driving around with a dual probe digital thermometer, one on the intake filter in the airbox and one measuring ambient temperature, I find the intake air to be within 1 to 2 degrees of ambient as long as the car is moving 30 mph or more. The temperature does rise 5 to 12 degrees when I sit in traffic. This is all the proof I need to enclose the airbox the rest of the way.
I finished sealing the box up and the results have be fantastic.
First I pulled the SRI and the airbox out and covered everything with packing tape and covered the opening with cardboard and tape to form the shape I wanted. Next I put three layers of fiberglass over the tape and let it set up.
The fiberglass part of the top has a 5/8" foam insulation layer on the inside for a couple reasons. It does a great job sealing all the small gaps around the bottom and with a 1.5" cut for the valve cover breather tube the foam seals around the tube easily. I plan to do a little more insulating before I am done and I probably will not paint it because it may end up covered with more of that silver insulation heat shield.
So far the temperatures look very low, but I may need a new location for my ambient temperature pickup because I am getting lower temps in the intake than ambient at times. I put the ambient pickup in the drivers side fender right behind the small crack between the body and the headlight and I notice a small rise in ambient as soon as the sun pops out. The intake temps rises the most after I have been driving and the car sits for 30 minutes or so, but after 5 minutes back on the road temps are right back down to, or close to, ambient. If I am stopped on the freeway the intake can be 10-12 deg. above ambient, but normal city driving seems to be the best with temperatures -1 to 3 degrees from ambient. This seems perfect because city driving is when the hp is the most fun, if you are not on a track. Interestingly the temps are just a little higher at constant freeway speed, around 3-5 degrees above ambient. It may be because air is not being used as quickly as it is being introduced so you get that little bubble of air in front of the air inlet.
want pics goto this site http://www.davincitandems.com/rsx/intake.html