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View Full Version : Advice on Re-assemblying Car - precautions etc - Suspension/brake assorted questions



Sexc86
02-03-2008, 12:18 AM
Hey guys

On the road to getting my Eg sedan back on the road. I am a bit of a DIY warrior and this is the most DIY i have done and really been learning as i go.

Basically Done a complete all Disc conversion with big spoon 4 pots up front, ITR 1inch master, braided brake lines, 4040 prop valve.

* First any advice on brake bleeding? some tricks to do it efficiently? is there a special way to bleed the twin block calipers as there seem to be 2 bleeding valves? (one on each side?)

* The bolts that hold in the brake lines, they have washers around them. do these washers go between the caiper and brake line? or between the brake line and the bolt?

*Suspension did the Tein Flex coilovers with ITR rear LCAs and Omni Power Front LCAs.

Is there anything i need to do to run any of these parts in? or really is it more of a *test and tune* approach? Keep in mind all these parts are brand new.

Also since alot of gear has been removed and re-attached...
trailing arms, controll arms, suspension, knuckles.. etc etc
im guessing would be a good idea at the end to go through and simple re-tighten every bolt... for piece of mine?

Is it very import to use a torque wrench? or simply just tighten to nice and firm ?

I think thats about it..

Anyway advice is very very welcome.


The may sound very noob... but my car has been off the road for going on 4months now and i blown nearly 5 figures on parts... dont want to take any chances. want to be able to drive my car without worry and safely




Thanks in advance

Regards Lyle

omgzilla
02-03-2008, 01:43 PM
Brake Bleeding: I do it this way: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11867&highlight=bleeding+brake
As far as the Spoon calipers having 2 bleed nipples - let me do some research and ill get back to you.

Brake Line Washers: I would think there should be a washer each side of the brake line fitting.

Like this:
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/BrakeLines/lincolnls5.JPG

Tension: I don't tend to bother too much with torque specs unless its something that is adjustable or engine/gearbox related. So you'd be right to assume to tighten all suspension parts until you're satisfied that it is tight.

Running In: You won't have to 'run in' any of the suspension bits, however I would recommend just nipping up control arms etc when up on the stands/hoist and then tightening them fully once on the ground at resting position. Or you could simulate resting position on a hoist by placing a jack under the wheel and raising the wheel into the guard (around normal resting position) then tightening the arms. The reason I do this is some cars bushes will flog out quickly if they're tightened at a different angle than normal resting position.

By resting position i mean as in the car with all 4 wheels on, sitting on the ground.

Sexc86
02-03-2008, 02:14 PM
Brake line washers? are you sure? i only had 1 washer when i removed it from factory standard?

omgzilla
02-03-2008, 02:36 PM
There's two washers on this one too:
http://images.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/0506_ht_38_z+brake_upgrade+mounting_hoses.jpg

Hmmm. Do you remember which side the washer was when you pulled it off?

As far as bleeding the spoon calipers: I've had a quick look and couldn't find anything on a specific procedure for them, but i'd just try doing them one at a time (doing the furtherest one away from the master cylinder first and working back towards it. Doing the bleed nipple that has the most travel out of the two for each caliper.

So do the LHR caliper, then the RHR, then the outer LHF caliper nipple first, then the inner LHF, then the outer RHF, then the inner RHF nipple.

Like this:
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/9577/bleedmk7.jpg
...i'm bored :)

Sexc86
02-03-2008, 09:54 PM
bored but rep point for you!

Limbo
03-03-2008, 10:54 AM
i had 2 washers on mine also when i recently did my ITR caliper upgrade

ek4-guy
03-03-2008, 11:13 AM
Bit late now but you should always prime shocks before use.

To do this you hold them vertical and extend and retract the shaft under some pressure around 6 times.

55EXX
03-03-2008, 06:28 PM
what happens if you don't prime your shocks?

Limbo
04-03-2008, 10:02 PM
i guess it would help even out the oil/gas inside?
Dunno never did that before though, they are pretty strong you know!

teh_mechanic
05-03-2008, 04:48 PM
what happens if you don't prime your shocks?

its just good practice to get into.compress them fully in a controlled environment (on a bench etc) to make sure it works fine and so the first time they compress really far on a pothole or something it doesnt shock the shock (great vocabulary hey) as the piston has already travelled that far before and everything inside is lubricated

and yes there needs to be a washer on each side of the brake line fitting or it will leak

Sexc86
06-03-2008, 09:10 PM
**** you serious!?... i just find it werid they only came out with 1 washer... but oh well cant hurt!

yay another few hrs of brake bleeding for me :(