ep3 build all motor

[bradb16a]

Im currently building my engine k20a and was hoping some would know what would be the best set up with cams and pistons to get the most out of 52mm Individual throttle bodys. :eek:
dont want to go stroker kit to much $$$$$

[EK1.6LCIV]

Being a yank I'm baised, I like Crower gear, and have many mates back home who swear by it for camshafts

http://crower.com/misc/m_cat.shtml

[bradb16a]

im looking at finding out a setup to get the most kw not you fav brand

[TODA AU]

Rather than jump in banging my own drum,
What ever cams, pistons etc you get,
Be sure to include a heavy duty timing chain tensioner to save you greif later on.
Cheers

[bradb16a]

Rather than jump in banging my own drum,
What ever cams, pistons etc you get,
Be sure to include a heavy duty timing chain tensioner to save you greif later on.
Cheers

bang away :o what camshaft and what com pistons would you use because i dont no and i think you mit no more than me

[TODA AU]

bang away :o what camshaft and what com pistons would you use because i dont no and i think you mit no more than me

Is it spared no expence budget or is there a limit?
Would you consider increasing the capacity?
Is the exhaust system up for it?

Edit... My bad... I just re-read the 1st post.
Any idea what budget you want to keep it under?

[fatboyz39]

what ITB's are they?

[TODA AU]

what ITB's are they?
52mm... Probably TWM

[fatboyz39]

52mm... Probably TWM

OH TWM :( (bad experience with B series ones)

[grumpy rooster]

OH TWM :( (bad experience with B series ones)

Let me guess. Idle issue and the so called "sticking"? Do i get a gold star? :p

[EG5]

Be sure to include a heavy duty timing chain tensioner to save you greif later on.
Cheers

We snapped couple of those stock timing chain tensioner .
Heavy duty timing chain tensioner is a must.

[bradb16a]

TWM what aren't they any good ??
budget for the build is stage one camshafts spiring retains $3000
stage two port and polish ????
stage three bottom end $3000
current exhaust sytem is mugen headers mugen exhaust "not changing"
ecu upgrade ????

[grumpy rooster]

Mate, TWM are fine. They are a good product. Some people have had an issue in the past but we have put a set on the Hi-Comp drag car and have not had a problem. From what we can see others issues have been more to do with tuning than the actual product itself. If you want any info on them let me know. :)

And as for ECU PM me.

[fatboyz39]

can't go past hondata K-Pro for a ECU. As for quads look into Haywards, Jenvy's, toda and others.

[TODA AU]

budget for the build is stage one camshafts spiring retains $3000
stage two port and polish ????
stage three bottom end $3000
current exhaust sytem is mugen headers mugen exhaust "not changing"
ecu upgrade ????

With keeping your current exhaust system in mind,
For stage 1, use TODA Spec A3 or C camshafts with springs & chain tensioner.
Together with Portflow or Supertech titanium retainers
With the above parts, you’re on budget including installation. (But not ECU or tuning)
Stage 2, IMO you’re doubling up on work here,
P&P is best saved for stage 3 when the whole engine is apart anyway.

Stage 3
If your budget is for parts only – not incl any labour & machining etc
You’ll stay on budget with the following:
OEM Upper engine gasket kit, Lower engine gasket kit, Oil filter & Timing chain
Clevite or ACL Bearings
TODA forged pistons (12.2~12.3:1 C/R – 98 RON) & Crower Maxi Light Rods
& stage 3 is the time to port the head & add better guides & seals.
Save your stage 2 budget until here.

Regarding ECU upgrade,
You don’t really have any choice here.
It pretty much is a must due to the quads & this will need to be fitted & tuned as soon as you fit your quads.
IMO the Hondata K-Pro system is the way to go.
So bare in mind you’ll need to budget the ECU into your plans + tuning after each of your stages.
When the engine is out, this would also be a good time to look at the clutch & flywheel with only parts cost being the additional expense.
Also if the car is going to see the circuit, a baffled sump at this time is also a good idea.

[SPECIALK]

[QUOTE=grumpy rooster;1630313]Mate, TWM are fine. They are a good product. Some people have had an issue in the past but we have put a set on the Hi-Comp drag car and have not had a problem. From what we can see others issues have been more to do with tuning than the actual product itself.

TWM yea if you want your throttle to stick unexpectedly then use these. TODA or Jenvey for the k and with that you can shut your bonnet as well.

[grumpy rooster]

Refer to the other thread mate. If you've got a personal grudge talk to me about it.

I have not seen this sticking throttle myself. And noone can show me it happening. Have you encountered it first hand or have you just heard from about it from someone else?

[pwr2w8]

TWM are known to have sticky throttle plates up, in to this day, they have not solved there issues, as for quads the best are the jenveys , i know grumpy your a seller of these but, my mate has used TWM and Jenveys and he said the TWM had many issues with sticking, and also the jenveys made better power across the rev range, proven fact.

[grumpy rooster]

Thats cool, I'm just trying to establish the facts thats all. I have not seen this happen as I've said. We don't have any problem.

I know that some people have said they have had problems in the past but noone could really tell me what the actual problem, when it stuck (open or closed) etc.

[SPECIALK]

No personal grudge just adding my input into what this thread is asking. :thumbsup:

[fatboyz39]

Remember its in a EP3 so bonnet MIGHT close with TWM. K series TWM in EG, forget it!

[TODA AU]

Regarding so called sticking TWM throttle,
My comments are based on my only experience with these throttles.
Admittedly it was some time ago now with the old JDM Yard EGK20A Blue EG.
This car did have a sticking throttle issue when cracking the throttle off idle.
On inspection the issue was the set up of the linkage system.
The linkage rod traversed past tangential on rotation of the shafts causing a geometric stick point,
(Much in the same way geometric bump steer is induced in steering.)
In any case, I imagine if the intake was removed & 1st set up on the bench prior to installation, there would likely not be such an issue.
The ability to rectify the problem when installed on an EG is / was limited as the linkages were on the underside & visibility & available space was limited.
The problem on that car was never rectified due to time constraints.
In short, this issue seemed to be an assembly issue rather than an inherent product flaw. Further, it is also likely the product has been further developed since this time.
Hope that clears it up a bit.

Anyway... Regardless of how everyone rates the TWM product,
The guy has this product to use...
There's little point in condemning the product before it is used on hearsay,
So rather than fussing over what may or may not be a problem these days.
Why not add some constructive advice related to his EP3?
Cheers

Adrian

[Benson]

Stop wasting time on this site and visit www.k20a.org

All your answered is there buddy

[mr_vtec]

yepp go to k20a.org which is were i got all my help..