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View Full Version : a simple way of modifying the stock airbox!



petrovski
07-09-2004, 11:39 AM
found this on teh net somewhere and thought i would relay it!

you take off the race track on the bottom of the air box and run a CAI to the hole at the bottom of the centre box (the bigger of the 3 on the air box) and thats it in a nutshell!


Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

Here's the steps for the box:
1) Remove the stock airbox.

2) Turn the air box upside down and you will see something that looks like a tube that goes across the bottom turns around and stops in the middle. That is the tube that the air has to follw before it even gets to the filter! This half a tube is what you remove. You need a screwdriver or 2 to pry it out. It is like the plastic is melted together in a seem or put together with special glue. All you have to do is wedge the screwdriver in and pry it out bit by bit!

3) once it is removed you can see that there is a whole now directly into that centre box which can remove the airflow going through the other 2 smaller boxes = less restriction.

4) put it in and thats it or leave it off and run a CAI

CAI:

1) Remove the foglights and fornt spoiler if you have a vti-s or if you just have them.

2) Remove the front bar.
Remove the clips and screw as indicated in the picture:
http://fit-id.hp.infoseek.co.jp/DSCN1693111.jpg

3) then pretty much follow this link until the 5th pic
Link (http://fit-id.hp.infoseek.co.jp/aerdakuto.htm)

4) when running the pipe there is no whole on the side of the air box so you dont run the pipe like in the 5th picture. In the 5th pic where the pipe bends upwards you bend it leftwards into the engine bay in front of the gear box. Then you bend it straight up to underneath the air box where the hole was and cable tie it to the hole. (need to drill 3 small holes in the box to allow for the cable ties.)

5) Put the front bar back on and where the passenger side foglight is, it was left it off and pull the pipe out a little so it suck out a little and now a cai!

Gains:
1) there is meant to be more induction noise! especially low down when you floor it and up high near the red line.

2) the engine feels looser and slightly more responsive and slightly quicker acceleration.

3) It is meant to be able to rev to the rev cut and not die off like it did before

Pete :)

supatt
07-09-2004, 12:26 PM
Thanks mate for the diy tips!!...going to try it this weekend...... does anyone know where to get an aftermarked type-r badge for the jazz?...original cost around 170 for one piece!!..
cheers!
SupaTT

petrovski
07-09-2004, 12:46 PM
badges from tanghy or hondar

Pete :)

Jus-10
07-09-2004, 12:51 PM
Sounds good Pete....

I've ordered my fog light garnish so should have that sorted in the next week or 2.

Did you use that 3inch piping for your air feed, and how did it fit compared with size of the foglight hole?

petrovski
07-09-2004, 01:01 PM
yeah they used the cheap 3 inch piping :p

as for fitting the fog light light hole you have to completely remove the garnish! and had to squash the pipe to an oval to fit through it.

the pipe is much bigger than the garnish, but the garnish is a good idea imo.


Pete :)

supatt
07-09-2004, 01:54 PM
may i ask who is tangy and hondar....and which state are they in?.....can they arrange to ship to adelaide?...and for around how much for the red honda badges? (x2)
thanks
Supa TT

Jus-10
07-09-2004, 02:55 PM
I haven't physically seen the back of the garnish yet, but my idea is to get a piece of PVC pipe (round) and then use a heat gun to make it all flexible and then whilst it's all soft mould it in to the shape of the garnish by pushing it down over the back of it. It will stretch a bit so it won't matter too much if it is a bit small - you just need to get a lot of heat in to it without actually burning it.

Now you only need to keep it about 3 or 4 inches in length, paint it black and attach the flexible piping to the end of it and run it to the filter from there. Should make for a subtle looking finish and one that looks pretty clean too. I will most likely cover the hole in the garnish with mesh (from behind) of some description and paint it black just to stop bigger objects like leaves, etc, going up it.

Let me know if you guys have any other ideas.

Pete, have you done your tail lights yet??

SupaTT, those guys will ship anywhere, but Tanghy is in Perth and hondar is in Sydney. The rear H badge is the rear DC5R badge (about $120 here), and the front badge is the EP3 front badge (which can't be bought here anyway so you will need to get from Jap or England). Just shoot them a PM or email and they will get you a price.

TypeG
07-09-2004, 04:57 PM
out of the topic, Ptete have u receive my money for headunit mount? I try to PM u but no reply mate.
I have as well got Apexi Intake and will do CAI later after my mugen header and exhuast come.

Jus-10
07-09-2004, 06:30 PM
WTF man you went with Mugen header!? What zorst did you get????

Damn you're going all out on it...you're more crazy than me!

petrovski
07-09-2004, 06:34 PM
type g i got your money :) and your getting mugen extractors and exhaust!? :eek: how much is that setting you back if you dont mind?
about the headuints - waiting for tanghy to get back to me so i can send him the money.

Jus-10 stil havent done the tail lights and i have no solder! yet . . .
the idea with thea heat gun sounds like a good one!

Pete :)

Jus-10
07-09-2004, 06:53 PM
I've still got all my crap for the tail lights sitting in a bag in my bedrrom somewhere...

TypeG
07-09-2004, 08:23 PM
still waiting for quote from JDMyard but i got the cash lol
going to get dual exhuast coz i am getting mugen professional kit
hehehehe yeah I am a bit crazy
so far i got cf bonnet, HID and mugen 15X7 with G3 tyres on car
KYB shockers, APexi intake, mugen kits, NGK spark plugs, spoon tower bar and kg/mm springs on ship
VAFC and rsm waiting to install
quoting for header and exhuast

that's all it will be on my car
on Dec, i will get new style headlight and tailight
that's all i think since i usually sell my car after i fully modify it

Jus-10
08-09-2004, 08:50 AM
Fark man....make sure you are getting progress pics!

There is some serious cash injected in to that car, though it seems a bit of a waste if you are already thinking about selling it, or will you be parting it out before you sell it.

Just wondering, what made you look at the Mugen extractors over the Spoon extractors? Have you seen any comparisons on the 2 by any chance?

TypeG
08-09-2004, 10:49 AM
personally i dun like spoon for some reason but if both are 4-1, they will be pretty much the same since it wont be a big gain in kw for a Jazz witout a proper tuning

Jus-10
08-09-2004, 12:16 PM
Oh it's that simple is it....I was hoping you would have read something somewhere or whatever. Peterovski and I have talked about the 2 before but it is hard to get any info on actual gains.

It's funny how you got the Spoon bar then. Mugen do a strut bar now (at like 3 times the price of the Spoon one though)

We have been a bit hesitant because the factory ones look pretty good (as do most Honda items). And it is hard to justify the expense of $1000+ for what will probably be minimal gain (a couple of kws at most).

That said, I can't wait to see how it goes once you get everything fitted and tuned. Should look the goods too.

TypeG
08-09-2004, 02:25 PM
lol
i got my spoon bar from my frd for $1XX and that's i get it
i still waiting for quote and duel exhuast is around $1500 landed
still waiting for header and quote from JDMyard...

Jus-10
08-09-2004, 03:24 PM
With that exhaust (I know the one you're talking about), is it just the muffler?

TypeG
08-09-2004, 03:56 PM
lol i am not too sure but it is the only exhuast to fit the kit but I am talking to the kit supplier and maybe able to install single exhuast by modifying the kits a bit so have to see the price and what beater say

but what exhuast and header u think is the better go and what size of b-pipe should i go for 2'? 2.25'?

kentris
11-10-2005, 10:50 AM
I would like to do this, but I'm slightly confused with the instructions. :S

supatt
11-10-2005, 02:04 PM
Kentris, here is how to do it.
1)remove the stock airbox from the engine bay
2)turn it upside down, you should see a spiral track on the bottom
3)use a flat head screw driver to pry open this track
4)shove a air intake piping (you have to buy this from hardware or car shops) into the open hole
5)put everything back into the engine bay and enjoy the sound of cold air sucking into your airbox.
this works pretty well but if you get a custom air intake made or get a simota air intake for the jazz it will work much better.

MRFIT
11-10-2005, 03:40 PM
Type G, I thought Mugen header 4-2-1....... ?? and the spoon header is 4-1....

kentris
11-10-2005, 05:41 PM
Kentris, here is how to do it.
1)remove the stock airbox from the engine bay
2)turn it upside down, you should see a spiral track on the bottom
3)use a flat head screw driver to pry open this track
4)shove a air intake piping (you have to buy this from hardware or car shops) into the open hole
5)put everything back into the engine bay and enjoy the sound of cold air sucking into your airbox.
this works pretty well but if you get a custom air intake made or get a simota air intake for the jazz it will work much better.

that's much clearer :D

If I take the Jazz in for servicing at Honda, they won't check it will do? Cos I'm afraid it'll void warranty on engine?

Thanks!

supatt
12-10-2005, 03:09 PM
i cant be sure that honda wont check it, but if you use black color tubing, it should be fairly inconspicuous.

Jazzle
12-10-2005, 10:00 PM
wat sort of material is best for the air pipe though???
and where else can we direct the pipe to beside the foglight hole (coz i have fog light =))..

supatt
14-10-2005, 11:08 AM
i used one that i bought from a car shop it is made of silicone and i directed it to the existing air intake.