Clutch master cylinder problem.

[VT1-R]

I have searched for this problem but do not get direct answers.

What i wan to know is that I am told by a mechanic that i have a clutch master cylinder leak. He jus simply went in and saw it without any effort.. I read the forums and find out that you either have something slimy when u stick ur hand up the clutch pedal or you have liquid on ur carpet etc.. But i have none of those?

Also, my clutch bitting point has been sort of "changing" meaning i cannot fully get used to the clutch.. If this week i get the contact point nicely, a few days later it sort of changes a lil up or down.. The mechanic told me this problem is caused by the leaking clutch master cylinder? IS IT TRUE??? NOOB HERE NEED PRO Reply!!!

Also, how much is a master and slave cylinder gonna set me back? anywhere to get them in perth.. I gonna DIY.. thanks!!

[bigjo5]

yes its true. dont think its ur slave cylinder, majority of the time would be the clutch master and u just buy the kit from honda prolly can get it done for about $130-$150 depending where u go.

[kyobi]

Yeah you'll be able to see abit of a leak if you poke your head underneath your dash.

I got mine fixed for $150 on Tuesday :)

[vinnY]

my MC cost about $80 new from honda
installed it in about 30 minutes + bleeding :)

[VT1-R]

yes its true. dont think its ur slave cylinder, majority of the time would be the clutch master and u just buy the kit from honda prolly can get it done for about $130-$150 depending where u go.

So its true that a fuked master cylinder will be cause different "contact point" for clutch? I really wanna make sure as my clutch is installed 8000km ago.. I really hope its not a clutch failure.. This problem has bothered me for the past 500km and I am getting it looked at this weekend. Any1 had this similar "CONTACT point" problem b4?

[vinnY]

imo the different feeling is caused by the pressure fluctuating because of the leaking master cylinder
being an ek4 its at least 10 years old, spend the $85 odd and replace it with a new master cylinder :)

regarding trying to identify the leak as kyo said stick your head where your pedals are and follow the clutch pedal up until you see a rod sticking through the firewall(this is part of your master cylinder)
it usually leaks from this point which is why you'll get the liquid(clutch/brake fluid) on your carpet

[VT1-R]

yeah thanks vinny.. I have also felt that the fluctuating is caused by the leaking master cylinder... I am getting it looked at with a mechanic fren this sunday and will get a new master cylinder asap when problem identified!!!

Meanwhile any1 with same problem feel free to share your experiences with me.. The diff in pressure is causing me to feel like a poor manual driver... haha...

[VT1-R]

The leak may be just internal seals leaking back into the reservoir so there may not be anything on the outside to let you know. No wet spots inside or outside.

So if its the internal seals leaking, replacing these seals will be ok?

My main concern is the damage to the clutch that a leaking master cylinder will cause..As now my clutch has diff biting point that causes occasional burnt smell when i am balancing off a upslope.. IT IS WORRYING ME BIG TIME AS CLUTCH IS NEW AND SHOULD NOT BE SORT OF HAVING BAD BITING POINT!!!

What harm can a damage master cylinder do to your clutch?

[vinnY]

claymore is right, it can be leaking internally. i was just merely backing up kyo in what you may see if it were leaking externally :)

its cheap enough to just replace your whole mc all together so people usually just buy a new to replace the old

just a punt about the burning smell, its probably you burning the clutch by riding it on a hill :p
hand brake hill start is the way to go mate no balancing

[xtat1k]

do you find it hard to get into gears ?

[VT1-R]

claymore is right, it can be leaking internally. i was just merely backing up kyo in what you may see if it were leaking externally :)

its cheap enough to just replace your whole mc all together so people usually just buy a new to replace the old

just a punt about the burning smell, its probably you burning the clutch by riding it on a hill :p
hand brake hill start is the way to go mate no balancing

yeah i usually hand brake on steep hills.. On normal not so steep hills, when i take off, the biting point is not precise tats all..

Yeah i having it looked at by a mechanic fren this weekend and will get replacement asap. This sort of small thing money not problem la.. Jus wanna learn more about its impacts on my clutch..

Leaking internally maybe be the problem so i look at it on sunday with my fren.. I dunno much about stuff so doing it myself might complicate shit further..

So my question is again what can a damaged master cylinder do to the clutch.. I suspects it been damage for past 500-1000km.. which worrys me about wearing clutch too much??

[aaronng]

^^ Agreed, a leaking master cylinder doesn't cause engagement problems.

[VT1-R]

release problem as in releasing clutch smoothly for take off? engagement of clutch is ok but the friction point varies a liltle... Burning smell onli comes when the fuking friction point changes due to the leaking clutch master cylinder..

I am sure i mastered the clutch... but after this shit problem.. i dunno y i cant drive as carefree as i used to.. now i have to be very careful and concentrate to drive smoothly...

[aaronng]

release problem as in releasing clutch smoothly for take off? engagement of clutch is ok but the friction point varies a liltle... Burning smell onli comes when the fuking friction point changes due to the leaking clutch master cylinder..

I am sure i mastered the clutch... but after this shit problem.. i dunno y i cant drive as carefree as i used to.. now i have to be very careful and concentrate to drive smoothly...
Leaking clutch master cylinder or not, your clutch pedal should be either fully released or fully depressed. The time in between must be minimised. Match the RPM to the road speed, and you can release the clutch lightning fast without jerking and burning.

[VT1-R]

Leaking clutch master cylinder or not, your clutch pedal should be either fully released or fully depressed. The time in between must be minimised. Match the RPM to the road speed, and you can release the clutch lightning fast without jerking and burning.

So u are saying a faulty master cylinder will not affect the friction point of the clutch varying due to leaking and it should drive as per normal? But some1 from thread said that the leaking master cylinder caused the varying in friction point.. I am confused lol... Well.. noob forum.. at least i am not asking question like "how to get 200whp" and actually not do it...

I can match rpm to road speed... but its just extra uncomfort with handling the clutch now i have due to a leaking master cylinder.. Its jus different from some mths ago..

[VT1-R]

do you find it hard to get into gears ?

nope.. getting into gears easy as..

[aaronng]

So u are saying a faulty master cylinder will not affect the friction point of the clutch varying due to leaking and it should drive as per normal? But some1 from thread said that the leaking master cylinder caused the varying in friction point.. I am confused lol... Well.. noob forum.. at least i am not asking question like "how to get 200whp" and actually not do it...

I can match rpm to road speed... but its just extra uncomfort with handling the clutch now i have due to a leaking master cylinder.. Its jus different from some mths ago..

Nope, I didn't say that. I said that even if the friction point keeps changing, if you get the correct RPM during upshifts and downshifts, you can release the clutch quickly and smoothly so that the varying friction point doesn't matter. The only unavoidable time when the varying friction point will affect you is when taking off from a standstill. Even so, I am 100% with changing the master cylinder to a new one.

[VT1-R]

Nope, I didn't say that. I said that even if the friction point keeps changing, if you get the correct RPM during upshifts and downshifts, you can release the clutch quickly and smoothly so that the varying friction point doesn't matter. The only unavoidable time when the varying friction point will affect you is when taking off from a standstill. Even so, I am 100% with changing the master cylinder to a new one.

yeah... absolutely right.. I can shift nicely and smoothly after 2nd... Its just taking off from stand still thats causing all the discomfort and reversing parking etc.. I am getting it tml from Honda and do a DIY with help from a fren.. thanks aaronng... as helpful as always!

[czy_sol87]

[QUOTE=aaronng;1646424] The only unavoidable time when the varying friction point will affect you is when taking off from a standstill.QUOTE]

i've got this problem and i've recently changed my master cylinder to a new one
if i havent driven it for a while say over nite, the clutch drops really low to the ground, i have to use my foot to pull it back up then its normal again
also drops when i've been giving it a bit
dunno what this problem is or could be
any suggestions???

[vinnY]

leaking hard line connection or broken slaver cylinder?

[czy_sol87]

leaking hard line connection or broken slaver cylinder?

there doesnt seem to be any leaking fluid around the slave cylinder, and i dont think im losing fluid either
and i had a split line(where the bleed nipple is) a while back which i replaced with a braied line

[vinnY]

well you might want to bleed it again after all that, might still be air left somewhere

[czy_sol87]

well you might want to bleed it again after all that, might still be air left somewhere

hummm i thought that as well, might give that a go 2moro and see if my problem goes away