Replacing brake lines.. just pull them and i can bleed the air?

[Dxs]

Going to replace the brake lines in my 90 crx..

any tips on doing this?


basically i might just undo the bleed nipples and let the fluid drain, and then undo them and swap them?

is it ok to let the master cylinder go dry.. i just need bleed the air out and start at the rear pass side when i put the new fluid in?


and i should just tighten them up so the washer copper gets a bit force on it.. ie damn tight?

[ECU-MAN]

the above method may result in you kiiling yourself

your best bleed the brakes properly by having someone press the pedal. allowing the fluid to run down out of the valiper wont cut it, it wont remove all the air.

are you replacing the brake lines or brake hoses ??

[Dxs]

hoses..

obviously i need to remove all the fluid.. because i am replacing all the hoses..

start at the RL brakes and undo the nipple and get someone to pump the pedal until all fluid is out? then should i then move to the RR brakes and do the same and then FL and then FR?



basically looking at a method to remove all brake fluid, and then replace hoses then fill with new fluid without getting air in the system

[black_dc_5]

what I did to my DC5 was:

1. open the nipple and let the reservoir dry

2. replace all the hoses with new ones make sure everything nicely tight and secured

3. start filling the reservoir

4. get some one in the car to push the pedal and bleed also wash off the old fluid. Start from rear pessanger side, rear driver side, fr pessanger side, fr driver side.

5. if still don't feel confident just re do the bleeding process. 2 bottles of fluid should do the job

make sure wear gloves

[aaronng]

hoses..

obviously i need to remove all the fluid.. because i am replacing all the hoses..

start at the RL brakes and undo the nipple and get someone to pump the pedal until all fluid is out? then should i then move to the RR brakes and do the same and then FL and then FR?

basically looking at a method to remove all brake fluid, and then replace hoses then fill with new fluid without getting air in the system

You wil get air in the brake system. I'd just put a drip tray underneath the caliper and replace the hoses with new ones. Repeat for the other 3 corners, then fill up with brake fluid and bleed away. With your car it should be bled from the corner which is the furthest away from the master cylinder.

[Dxs]

bla, seems that the info is a bit all over the place..

2 things i want to know..

1) Best way to remove all the brake fluid to make it dry
(then i can remove and replace the hoses)
2) Best way to fill it the system when it is totally dry (all the info is when there is fluid in there already, saying the brake cylinder should have fluid in it and not go below minimum)

[aaronng]

That is why I prefer to prevent all the fluid from draining from the resevoir. I do that by putting glad wrap over the resevoir and then putting the cap on, so that there is no air leak and slows down the rate of brake fluid coming out of the brake lines when you disconnect the hoses.

[Dxs]

so you think that i should to try and seal the cylinder, so the vacuum will keep fluid in the lines.. then drain the hoses with the nipple and swap them?

[aaronng]

so you think that i should to try and seal the cylinder, so the vacuum will keep fluid in the lines.. then drain the hoses with the nipple and swap them?

That's what I do. Because the old brake fluid will be pumped out when I bleed air out of the new lines anyway.

[Dxs]

ok, thanks arronn

anyone else with their perspective?

[Feverpitched]

Don't empty the reservoir.

[Dxs]

ok this is what i am going to do..

1) Undo the nipples and let the system go dry

2) swap over all the lines and then tighten the nipples

3) Fill up with as much fluid as possible.

4) Then do the air bleed process, start off at the RL then RR then FL then RR.. just doing the process of open the nipple get friend to pump as i fill the brake res and tighten nipple when no more air is coming out..


ALL COOL?

[aaronng]

Why are you letting the brake system go dry?

[Dxs]

well y cant i?
isnt the system basically gravity fed? untill the piston seals to make pressure


so in theory cant it be dry because i will give it new fluid?
like if u brake master cylinder dies, u get a new empty one..

etc

[Feverpitched]

It's highly recommended that you don't let the reservoir go dry. Just try and be very quick with your hose changes so you don't empty the whole system on the floor and top up the reservoir after every hose change.

The rubber seals in the braking system don't like being dry at all, and you won't have to bleed your system as much if you don't let it go dry.

[ECU-MAN]

as above

its harder to bleed the air out of the BMC. just be quick when changing the hoses.

[Dxs]

ok cheers
why does letting the bmc make it harder though?

i will use aarons glad wrap method then

[fatboyz39]

BMC bleeding is a **** of a job....

just change over the lines quickly whiule the fluid is leaking, might get messy but it'll work. Im guess changing to braided lines?

[Dxs]

ok, will attempt this tomoz arvo

yeah professor endless is in the house