Using the wrong Iridium Spark Plug?

[outatime]

recently i bought iridium spark plugs for my car's d16y4 engine. the part number in the box says BKR6EIX-11.

after reading some of the threads here, i just discovered that i'm using the wrong part number! apparently the spark plug i'm using is for the d16y1 engine... can i still use that on the d16y4? would it damage the engine?

thanks.

[aaronng]

Y4 is specced with cooler plugs. So by using Y1 plugs, you might get pinging if you get a bad batch of fuel. What is more worrying is the different part number, which should indicate a difference in the plug length
Y4 - ZFR5J-11
Y1 - BKR6E-11

[nugget1]

At my one and only(never again) Honda dealer service they put ZFR5J-11 in my D16Y8 instead of the correct BKR5E-11, after putting the correct plugs in myself the car is running noticeably better.

[teh_mechanic]

At my one and only(never again) Honda dealer service they put ZFR5J-11 in my D16Y8 instead of the correct BKR5E-11, after putting the correct plugs in myself the car is running noticeably better.

those plugs arnt extremely different,but you are correct that they had the wrong plug in before and the right one now.

both of the plugs have a 5 heat rating and an 11mm spark gap,the size of the plug would of been a bees dick different,maybe altering compression by the tiniest amount.i wouldnt think that you could actually feel the difference in the car.but its your car,and you felt it,so good,gotta keep an eye on those mechanic haha

[nugget1]

Thanks teh_mechanic I was wondering how different the plugs were to each other, I did reset the ecu after changing the plugs which could explain the car running better and not just the plugs.

[outatime]

Y4 is specced with cooler plugs. So by using Y1 plugs, you might get pinging if you get a bad batch of fuel. What is more worrying is the different part number, which should indicate a difference in the plug length
Y4 - ZFR5J-11
Y1 - BKR6E-11

what would cause the pinging? would that be the pistons headbutting the plugs?

btw, the old plugs i had in my car were BKR5E-11. thought they were the right one.. but it's for d16y8. they've been there for 12,000kms. previous owner put it so i assume i can use that as an alternate for ZFR5J-11???

ta.

[aaronng]

what would cause the pinging? would that be the pistons headbutting the plugs?

btw, the old plugs i had in my car were BKR5E-11. thought they were the right one.. but it's for d16y8. they've been there for 12,000kms. previous owner put it so i assume i can use that as an alternate for ZFR5J-11???

ta.
No, the piston doesn't hit the plugs (you would have a big problem then). Cooler plugs actually help conduct heat away from the tip, so you get less of a hot spot at the tip of the plug. For high compression engines, the combination of high compression and hot plug can causing preignition, or pinging. On the other end, if you use plugs that are too cool, then the tip doesn't get hot enough to burn away deposits and after a few months, you get yucky chunks forming on the spark plug tip. So go for the right heat range as spec'd by the manufacturer if your engine is still stock.

[thaizeg]

hey guys,
wat plugs would be recommended for jdm b18cR with I/H/E...?
thanks

[aaronng]

hey guys,
wat plugs would be recommended for jdm b18cR with I/H/E...?
thanks

Same as for AUDM DC2R.

[outatime]

No, the piston doesn't hit the plugs (you would have a big problem then). Cooler plugs actually help conduct heat away from the tip, so you get less of a hot spot at the tip of the plug. For high compression engines, the combination of high compression and hot plug can causing preignition, or pinging. On the other end, if you use plugs that are too cool, then the tip doesn't get hot enough to burn away deposits and after a few months, you get yucky chunks forming on the spark plug tip. So go for the right heat range as spec'd by the manufacturer if your engine is still stock.

so that explains why the old plugs (BKR5E-11) had black deposits.. it was probably not hot enough to burn them.. i thought the engine was running rich..

thanks for the tip aarong. i'll go get the right plugs tomorrow.. i'll set aside the ones i have now (BKR6EIX-11) for my b16 conversion. they're actually the plugs for b16 too.

[outatime]

hey guys,
wat plugs would be recommended for jdm b18cR with I/H/E...?
thanks

according to ngk.com.au, the part number is: PFR7G-11S

like aarong said it's the same for the audm motor..

[aaronng]

so that explains why the old plugs (BKR5E-11) had black deposits.. it was probably not hot enough to burn them.. i thought the engine was running rich..

thanks for the tip aarong. i'll go get the right plugs tomorrow.. i'll set aside the ones i have now (BKR6EIX-11) for my b16 conversion. they're actually the plugs for b16 too.

5 is actually hotter than 6. Black coating is running rich. Brown chunky deposits... the plug is not hot enough.

[ludecrs]

Reading the Plugs

We have provided a list of firing end conditions to help you identify situations that may occur in your vehicle. It is helpful to use a magnifying glass to view these deposits. We recommends the use of a 5 power magnifier with a light that will allow you to see small deposits on the corners of the spark plug and make an accurate diagnosis.


Normal Firing End
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/images/normal.gif

A grayish tan to while color indicates the correct heat range spark plug is in use, the fuel and ignition systems are in good shape and overall engine mechanical condition is good. Replace with new plugs of the same heat range. Refer to the owner's manual for recommended spark plug change interval.


Worn Out
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/images/spworn.gif

Worn or rounded center and/or ground electrodes indicate excessive wear and can cause misfire during acceleration, hard starting or reduced fuel economy and damage to other secondary ignition components e.g., spark plug wires, coils and distributor cap with continuous use. When a plug has this type of appearance, it has simply exceeded its useful life. Replace with new spark plugs of the same heat range and design.


Detonation
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/images/detonation.gif

In cases of light detonation, small black or gray spots will be noticed on the core nose of the spark plug. In cases of severe detonation, insulators may be cracked and/or chipped. The same high pressure waves created during detonation can break spark plugs, damage intake valves and break pistons. Make sure that the correct octane fuel is being used, assure proper operation of emission and computer systems, and assure the correct heat range of spark plug is being used.


Mechanical Damage
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/images/mech.gif

Bent and/or broken electrodes and core nose indicate mechanical damage caused by foreign objects in the combustion chamber or improper reach spark plugs, Remove the foreign object from the engine and check the owner's manual for proper spark plug application.


Overheated
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/images/overheat.gif

Chalky white insulator with little or no coloration, accelerated electrode wear and possibly blistered or pitted electrodes are indications that a plug has overheated. The shell may also be discolored from light gray to a dark blue, almost black. Check for the correct heat range spark plug. Verify that ignition liming and air fuel mixtures are adequate. Engine overheating and restricted exhaust systems can also cause this condition.


Ash Deposits
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/images/ash.gif

Light brown deposits encrusted on the ground and/or center electrodes indicate ash deposits. This situation is caused by oil and/or fuel additives. When the deposits are found on only one side of the spark plug core nose, it is usually considered to be a problem with the cylinder head (valve stem seals or valve guides). When they are found on both sides of the spark plug, it is often considered to be a problem sealing at the piston rings. This condition can mask the spark and, in some cases, contribute to misfire. Check for worn valve guides and valve stem seals and/or piston rings. The spark plug is the correct heat range and was a victim of the engine's condition, not the cause of it. We does not recommend the use of fuel additives which leave deposits on the core nose of the spark plug.


Oil Fouled
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/images/oil.gif

Symptoms of oil fouling include black oily coating caused by poor oil control. This situation is more severe than what is seen with the ash-fouled spark plugs and usually represents advanced engine wear. When the oil enters the combustion chamber and covers the core nose of the spark plug, the spark no longer arcs across the gap. Rather it takes the easier path to ground by tracking down the oil on the core nose. This results in a complete cylinder misfire condition. Check for worn valve guides, valve stem seals and/or piston rings. Replacing the spark plug may help for a short time, but the new plug will soon foul.


Initial Pre-Ignition

Signs of the spark plug being hot or blistered and/or melted center and ground electrodes are indications of initial preignition. Check that the correct heat range spark plug is being used, assure ignition timing and air fuel mixture are appropriate, assure entire ignition system is functional and check its specifications. Routing of spark plug wires on some engines can contribute to cross induction which will lead to pre-ignition. Excessive carbon deposits in the combustion chamber may contribute as well.


Sustained Pre-Ignition
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/images/sustained.gif

Melted center and/or ground electrodes and/or a melted insulator are symptoms of sustained pre-ignition. See initial preignition, description above. Also expect to find damage to the pistons and/or exhaust valves.


Splash Deposits
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/images/spsplash.gif

Small islands of contaminants on the insulator indicate splash deposits. Replace with new plugs of the correct heat range. The use of fuel additives, carburetor and choke cleaners or other aggressive solvents before installing new plugs is the most common cause of this condition.


Carbon Fouled
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/images/carbon.gif

Soft, black, sooty, dry-looking deposits indicate a rich air fuel mixture, weak ignition or wrong heat range spark plug (too cold). These carbon-based deposits are conductive, much like oil fouling, and will allow the voltage coming out of the center electrode of the spark plug to track down the core nose rather than jumping the gap. This will result in an engine misfire and further aggravate the carbon fouled condition. Check for correct plug heat range. On fuel injected engines, check for sticking injectors, malfunctioning cold start valves and/or circuits. Also check for correct fuel pressure specifications. On computer controlled vehicles, the "limp home" computer mode will always result in a rich condition. Therefore, it is imperative that you check the operation and condition of the on-board computer system. On carbureted vehicles, check choke and choke pulloff, high float level, and needle and seat condition. On all engines, severe vacuum leaks can decrease manifold vacuum, resulting in a rich condition. Weak and/or damaged secondary ignition systems will fail to spark across the gap lowering combustion chamber temperatures and promoting carbon deposits. This condition could also result from continuous low speed driving or poor cylinder compression.


Fuel Additives
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/images/fuel.gif

Red to purple deposits on one side of the core nose are an indication of a fuel additive. While many of these deposits are non-conductive and do not contribute to lack of performance, some fuel additives contain octane boosters that leave conductive deposits on the core nose. Care should be taken to select fuel additives which are compatible with ignition systems and do not contain conductive materials such as octane boosters.

Source: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/spkplghnbook.htm

[beeza]

I'm a bit worried now.I'm using ZFR5FIX-11 atm.
But we did talk about that before http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84981&page=3

[aaronng]

I'm a bit worried now.I'm using ZFR5FIX-11 atm.
But we did talk about that before http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84981&page=3
5 is a hotter plug than 6. So if you are not getting any pinging (or running too lean), then it should be alright.

[beeza]

Ah cool,thanks aaron.I know my car is running rich,hence the the covering in black.

[outatime]

5 is actually hotter than 6. Black coating is running rich. Brown chunky deposits... the plug is not hot enough.

if it's rich, how do i fix it? does it have something to do with the fuel reg tuning?

[aaronng]

if it's rich, how do i fix it? does it have something to do with the fuel reg tuning?
Do you have an aftermarket ECU, piggyback, interceptor or ebay chip? If you are fully stock, you shouldn't be running excessively rich.

[outatime]

Do you have an aftermarket ECU, piggyback, interceptor or ebay chip? If you are fully stock, you shouldn't be running excessively rich.

not fully stock.. have a vafcII tuned by toda and made 76kw atw.

so that's what's causing the rich engine aye?

[aaronng]

not fully stock.. have a vafcII tuned by toda and made 76kw atw.

so that's what's causing the rich engine aye?

Did you get a dyno printout with A/F ratios when toda tuned it?

[outatime]

where is the a/f ratio? i got these numbers at the bottom of the line chart:

BP:101.0 RH:48 AT:22 IT:23 RR:010 TN:3.543 CK:764

[aaronng]

where is the a/f ratio? i got these numbers at the bottom of the line chart:

BP:101.0 RH:48 AT:22 IT:23 RR:010 TN:3.543 CK:764

Your dyno sheet should have 2 lines. One for power, and the other is either tractive force (torque) or A/F ratio. If it is torque, then you need to get one printed out for A/F ratio.

[EK1.6LCIV]

Honda OEM Denso plugs ($5 each at any Honda dealer) or Champion brand

[Raztaz]

the NGK website will tell you what spark plugs you should get for your car, it has a search thing where u enter your your cars detail (engine model)

[beeza]

Who are you talking to Ryan? lol

[EK1.6LCIV]

Who are you talking to Ryan? lol

I was offering my opinion are u bored or something mate lol :wave:

[beeza]

haha,I just couldn't link what you posted to anything and it confused the shit outta me haha :)