Engine Oil for Dc2r!!

[dslt]

Hey guys, this has probably been covered a few times, but today i checked my engine oil and there was barely any left. Lately i've been using Motul
5-40w on my dc2r which has around 72k on the clock.

I've noticed that the oil tends to burn a lil quicker than usual, Maybe cause i recently got my car tuned? not sure. But i'm planning to service my car this weekend with the Honda FEO 10-30 which honda recommends for most of their vehicles

I was told that this oil will burn a lil slower due to it being thicker than the motul 5-40.

Also would the Honda FEO 10-30 affect the performance of the car at all?

Not sure if my mind is playing games, but ever since i was using motul my car feels as though it runs better. I have no proof of this but its just my opinion.

If someone could give me some slight idea why my car is chewing oil more than usual that would be much appreciated, and what engine oil do you guys use on your type r's?

cheers

[ricki_kalsi]

General engine wear (piston rings) allows more oil to be burnt.

Normally you'll see some white smoke come out of your exhaust - Not always. It's normal, espeically for B-series to be burning a bit of oil, especially at 72,000km's it's getting quite old.

Yes, a thinner (0W or 5W) oil will burn faster than 10W or 15W oil.
Thicker oils tend not to heat up as quick as thinner oils. Also some oil tend to burn more than others (from my experience: Mobil 1 and Motul burn quickly).

Honda FEO oil is alright. It last a while, but it's properties change quite quick, and VTAK attack mode doesn't work as well after about 5000km's.

I would rather stick with Castrol Edge 5W-30 for street driving. It's good quality, cheap, and lasts a long time!

Make sure you keep checking your oil at least every 1000km's, keep a spare bottle of oil at home, and top up if you need too.

[aaronng]

General engine wear (piston rings) allows more oil to be burnt.

Normally you'll see some white smoke come out of your exhaust - Not always. It's normal, espeically for B-series to be burning a bit of oil, especially at 72,000km's it's getting quite old.
No, the PCV valve has weakened. Replace it and it will help with oil consumption unless there is very bad blowby. 72000km is not old at all. Very young for a B series....



Yes, a thinner (0W or 5W) oil will burn faster than 10W or 15W oil.
Thicker oils tend not to heat up as quick as thinner oils. Also some oil tend to burn more than others (from my experience: Mobil 1 and Motul burn quickly).
That is the cold temperature viscosity at -18 C. Totally irrelevant to a running engine that has warmed up with the oil at 100 C. You look at the 2nd number. Not the first. Any oil that gets into the combustion chamber will burn. It could have been that the particular time that you had Mobil 1 and Motul in your engine, you were driving the car hard regularly?



Make sure you keep checking your oil at least every 1000km's, keep a spare bottle of oil at home, and top up if you need too.
Agreed!

[aaronng]

I've noticed that the oil tends to burn a lil quicker than usual, Maybe cause i recently got my car tuned? not sure. But i'm planning to service my car this weekend with the Honda FEO 10-30 which honda recommends for most of their vehicles

I was told that this oil will burn a lil slower due to it being thicker than the motul 5-40.
FEO is thinner than 5w-40 except at -18 C.



Also would the Honda FEO 10-30 affect the performance of the car at all?

Not sure if my mind is playing games, but ever since i was using motul my car feels as though it runs better. I have no proof of this but its just my opinion.

If someone could give me some slight idea why my car is chewing oil more than usual that would be much appreciated, and what engine oil do you guys use on your type r's?

cheers
Motul 5w-40 (8100 x-cess I assume?) has a better base stock (PAO synthetic) and therefore less friction when used in the engine. That is why it feels smoother.

Change your PCV valve. It is cheap to replace. Do that first. The valve itself should cost less than a botul of Motul oil. :)

[ricki_kalsi]

Ahhh no comment.

You always post everything opposite to what I have read, have been told and experimented with.

Mobil and Motul burn quicker than alot of other oils I have used. Driving hard on all oils, roughly same temps and conditions.

Having a colder temp viscosity would mean what...? That is it a thinner oil. when a oil heats up, it becomes thinner, correct? Almost any substance would become unstable and loose bonding abilities with heat - which goes with a thinner low viscosity oil to burn at a quicker rate than that of a thicker oil. Anyyywayysss... i'm just going off what I have used, and experimented with.

[aaronng]

Ahhh no comment.

You always post everything opposite to what I have read, have been told and experimented with.

Mobil and Motul burn quicker than alot of other oils I have used. Driving hard on all oils, roughly same temps and conditions.

Having a colder temp viscosity would mean what...? That is it a thinner oil. when a oil heats up, it becomes thinner, correct? Almost any substance would become unstable and loose bonding abilities with heat - which goes with a thinner low viscosity oil to burn at a quicker rate than that of a thicker oil. Anyyywayysss... i'm just going off what I have used, and experimented with.
That is the fun part. :)

Having an oil that starts out thinner at cold temperature doesn't necessarily end up being thinner when at high temperature. Oils have viscosity modifiers added to it to alter the properties at different temperatures. So you can get oil #1 which is thinner than oil #2 at low temperature but then is thicker than #2 at high temperature.

[dsp26]

That is the fun part. :)

Having an oil that starts out thinner at cold temperature doesn't necessarily end up being thinner when at high temperature. Oils have viscosity modifiers added to it to alter the properties at different temperatures. So you can get oil #1 which is thinner than oil #2 at low temperature but then is thicker than #2 at high temperature.

he's right ricki.. physics is physics.. sometimes i wish i can walk on air too... it's the 2nd number that counts.

i however prefer to use a 5w or no lower than 10w combined with a filter incorporating anti-drain back to ensure my internals are well lubed straight up!

[hui]

i've always used mobil 1 10/30 no problems whatsever, now that its done 130,000 im thinking of using 10/40 next oil change. what you guys think of motul 300V?

[EG30]

May be you hammered your car more than usual after tuning hence the higher than your normal oil consumption.

I used Castrol Edge 5w30 synthetic in our dc2r with 110,000kms, car went very good and burnt very little ie may be 1-1.5mm on the dipstick at the end of 5000kms which the oil got pretty dark brown. I dont hammer the car that often but when I do vtec I tend to use most of the revs avail to me ie change up at 8-8.5Krpm.

I started trialling the Nulon 10w40 100% synthetic which claims xx% less friction than " leading branded oil " or something. As I have a few Hondas with B series engines I find the Nulon good value as you can buy 6L packs for $57 at Repco; with the 12L from 2 bottlesat my disposal I can do 3 oil changes with that. It's now done about 1300km in our dc2r now with no signs of oil burning and oil still dark yellow; but I can feel the blunted throttle response from day one compared to the 5w30. As for the reduced friction claims, the Nulon 10w40 doesnt feel more slippery nor less draggy on the engine than the Mobil 1 5w50 we had when we 1st bought the car 15,000kms ago. I decided to go for the 10w40 grade as it was middle of summer at the time with some track events coming up and felt 5w30 would have been bit thin for my liking.

If you want to go something thicker than your 5w40, you might also want to consider the Valvoline 10w40 Durablend semi syn and VR1 Racing syn fortified oil.

[aaronng]

i've always used mobil 1 10/30 no problems whatsever, now that its done 130,000 im thinking of using 10/40 next oil change. what you guys think of motul 300V?

If you have no problems now, why change? Although, I do like 300V better than Mobil1 gold.

[ricki_kalsi]

Yeah alright I understand that part... Oils are modified alot nowadays.

From my research and experimentation - Also Touge Tune has told me this (Don't crap me out... because this is just what I have found out)

But it's also true that 5W-30 oil is more stable than a 0W-40. The more spread the less stable the molecule.

Oil also has cleaning agents in it, and that determines how quick the oil changes colour (??), Mobil 1 gets black alot faster than majority of oils, as it would have more cleaning agents in it?

[quenjose]

Mobil 1 does turn black fairly quickly...
my first assumption was that theres lots of detergents in the oil.
Thoughts were though, it burns off far quicker than other oils i've used.

Am currently running Shell helix ultra 5w-40w.
5litres of fully syn for 50+ dollars... been working a treat so far.
my mileage per tank has gone up too.
5000kms later and oil is still dull gold in colour...
dip stick level still sitting at max.
No complaints. :thumbsup:

[aaronng]

But it's also true that 5W-30 oil is more stable than a 0W-40. The more spread the less stable the molecule.

True if BOTH oils use the same base stock and viscosity modifiers of the same quality. But, if you are comparing Castrol Edge 5w-30 against Castrol Edge 0w-40, then the 0w-40 is more stable because it uses a PAO base stock vs the 5w-30's hydrocracked mineral base stock. Same can be said if you compared Mobil1 Gold 10w-30 vs Motul 300V 5w-40. Motul 300V uses an ester base stock and is more stable than Mobil1's PAO base stock.

Unfortunately in the real world, you can't even do an apples vs apples comparison anymore. You have to narrow it down further to pink lady vs granny smith!

[slidetaker]

Unfortunately in the real world, you can't even do an apples vs apples comparison anymore. You have to narrow it down further to pink lady vs granny smith!

Very very true, you can only say that a smaller spread of viscosity range will be more stable in holding its viscosites in accordance with its designated temperatures, than a wider spread engine oil in a long run.

Barely related to the wear protection, heavy metal chemicals break down or HTHS...