EDFC Power wiring

[Crapdaz]

Hi,

I am going to hook up the EDFC with my coilovers tomorrow and i am wondering for the power harness there is the following wires.

ALL TIME POWER SUPPLY (YELLOW CABLE)
ACCESSORY POWER SUPPLY (RED CABLE)
ILLUMINATION POWER SUPPLY (GREEN CABLE)
GROUND CABLE (BLACK CABLE)

in relation to the three power cables yellow/red/green can someone tell me or know where the best place to connect each is?

Thanks in advance. daz

[Crapdaz]

PLEASE, can someone tell me how and where they hooked up the power connections?

Thanks all.

[destrukshn]

you'll need a test light.
to test which wires are which.

and if you have no idea, i wouldn't recommend doing it yourself.

[Crapdaz]

thanks destruction for the reply,

as stated from my initial post the wires that are located are these
ALL TIME POWER SUPPLY (YELLOW CABLE)
ACCESSORY POWER SUPPLY (RED CABLE)
ILLUMINATION POWER SUPPLY (GREEN CABLE)
GROUND CABLE (BLACK CABLE)

i just want to know where can i connect the three power ones to in the car?
i read online on lexus forum that for the accessory power supply i can connect to cigarette lighter and i am unsure about the other two illumination and all time power (direct to battery?)

[destrukshn]

thanks destruction for the reply,

as stated from my initial post the wires that are located are these
ALL TIME POWER SUPPLY (YELLOW CABLE)
ACCESSORY POWER SUPPLY (RED CABLE)
ILLUMINATION POWER SUPPLY (GREEN CABLE)
GROUND CABLE (BLACK CABLE)

i just want to know where can i connect the three power ones to in the car?
i read online on lexus forum that for the accessory power supply i can connect to cigarette lighter and i am unsure about the other two illumination and all time power (direct to battery?)
that's what i'm saying you will need a test light to test the wires on the car itself to see which wires to connect the edfc to.
well go for the steering column wires.

[aaronng]

ALL TIME POWER SUPPLY (YELLOW CABLE) - positive ignition power supply wire, or straight to battery with a fuse.
ACCESSORY POWER SUPPLY (RED CABLE) - positive cigarette lighter wire
ILLUMINATION POWER SUPPLY (GREEN CABLE) - positive light bulb next to cigarette lighter
GROUND CABLE (BLACK CABLE) - any bolt on the chassis

Like destrukshn said, you will have to use a test light to find out which is positive and which is ground coming out of the bulb, cigarette lighter and ignition.

[Crapdaz]

ALL TIME POWER SUPPLY (YELLOW CABLE) - positive ignition power supply wire, or straight to battery with a fuse.
ACCESSORY POWER SUPPLY (RED CABLE) - positive cigarette lighter wire
ILLUMINATION POWER SUPPLY (GREEN CABLE) - positive light bulb next to cigarette lighter
GROUND CABLE (BLACK CABLE) - any bolt on the chassis

Like destrukshn said, you will have to use a test light to find out which is positive and which is ground coming out of the bulb, cigarette lighter and ignition.

yeh i know that, but the where abouts was my worry.

cheers aaron for answering my question.

[JetLee]

I wired the ACC, GND and ILLUM to the cigarette lighter in the centre console. For constant power, there is a connector behind the drivers side right hand kick panel (green connector I think) just above the fuse/relay panel access cover. In this connector is a THICK WHITE WIRE. This wire is constant B+ power. Double check with a multimeter if your unsure. I tapped into this wire for B+. Good luck!

[JetLee]

Where abouts have you decided to mount the module?? I mounted mine in the right hand driver side instrument panel pocket. Will have a crack at posting photos up soon!

[Crapdaz]

ACC - Cigarette Light
ILLUM - Ashtray light
All Time Pow - Steering column power
GND - chassis bolts next to handbrake

Unit is mounted inside the ashtray pocket, ashtray has been relocated unused.
Only problem now is that i need to switch on headlights to minimal of parklights to change settings.

[mr747]

how do you find the flex good????

[Crapdaz]

okay my opinion, hard could be harder but then sydney roads are F***D

softest is too bouncy for my liking.
but because i needed to raise the car a bit i feel that it doesnt eat the corners like cornflakes. atm i have (from wheel arch to tyre surface) FRONT: 2_1/4 finger gap approx, REAR: 3 finger.

Initially Before Ridden in: 2 fingers all round.
my mate and i initially set it to stock height and dropped it 30mm but after riding it in it was pretty low.
It feels like it was going to give out mid corner but then eats it up again. and keeps you flat on the road.
Ridden in: less than a finger

SORRY FOR MY DISFUNCTIONAL COMMENTS

P.S: This is MONOFLEX --> replaced flex but i think the spring rates are less on monos cost an arm and a leg.

[aaronng]

Did you adjust the height using the lower mount or using the lower spring perch? Did you check that the spring preload (lower spring perch height) was set to factory specs?

[aaronng]

It feels like it was going to give out mid corner but then eats it up again. and keeps you flat on the road.

Sounds like your tyres are now the weakest link. I had the same problem with the car tending to slide and then grip again suddenly when I had my stock tyres. After changing to RE001, there is no more random sliding. It is predictable and controllable using just the throttle pedal now.

Also, have you installed your rear camber kit and got a front and rear alignment done yet?

[Crapdaz]

yeh checked everything. but then again i reduced the spring perch to medium so the spring was shorter. then reduced the height with lower mount 30mm.

but yeh atm i feel the car is not low enough. felt better when lower.
another is driving feels different prob cause i got my ETD put in.
and dang the LAB is low.

[aaronng]

yeh checked everything. but then again i reduced the spring perch to medium so the spring was shorter. then reduced the height with lower mount 30mm.

but yeh atm i feel the car is not low enough. felt better when lower.
another is driving feels different prob cause i got my ETD put in.
and dang the LAB is low.

You should set the lower spring perch to the factory specs as per in the installation manual, and adjust the height using only the lower mount. Otherwise the damper won't work effectively and you get that bouncy effect.

[Crapdaz]

Sounds like your tyres are now the weakest link. I had the same problem with the car tending to slide and then grip again suddenly when I had my stock tyres. After changing to RE001, there is no more random sliding. It is predictable and controllable using just the throttle pedal now.

Also, have you installed your rear camber kit and got a front and rear alignment done yet?
rear camberkit done, alignment did but guy didnt know hwo to change the toe for the rear. now its a bit buckled again on the front.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
yeh checked everything. but then again i reduced the spring perch to medium so the spring was shorter. then reduced the height with lower mount 30mm.

but yeh atm i feel the car is not low enough. felt better when lower.
another is driving feels different prob cause i got my ETD put in.
and dang the LAB is low.

You should set the lower spring perch to the factory specs as per in the installation manual, and adjust the height using only the lower mount. Otherwise the damper won't work effectively and you get that bouncy effect.
the spring perch isnt much shorter than stock only like 2cm, just that when i first had the height set it was much lower and wasnt mucking around with edfc cause didnt have it installed.

What is the advantage or disadvantage for not having the factory spring perch set at stock (bad thing was installation instructions for coilies was in japanese)?

[aaronng]

rear camberkit done, alignment did but guy didnt know hwo to change the toe for the rear. now its a bit buckled again on the front.
That is not good for that tyre shop.... Which rear camber kit do you have? What do you mean buckled at the front?



the spring perch isnt much shorter than stock only like 2cm, just that when i first had the height set it was much lower and wasnt mucking around with edfc cause didnt have it installed.
I'd recommend you to put it back to stock. If you were going to change the height using the spring perch, you might as well buy SS and save some money. The reason you buy Flex, Monoflex or CS is for the lower adjustable mount so that you can adjust the height while keeping the damper operating at the optimum range. So change the lower spring pertch back to stock level and adjust the lower mount to lower the car instead.



What is the advantage or disadvantage for not having the factory spring perch set at stock (bad thing was installation instructions for coilies was in japanese)?
Your damper effectiveness will be reduced (or won't work). Hence, you get a bouncy ride. A damper's function is to absorb the bounciness. Monoflex should be firm and not bouncy. Use the car too long with the dampers in the wrong height range, you will damage the valving. Have you installed EDFC? If not, how many clicks from full clockwise are you using for that "softest" setting?

[Crapdaz]

Ingalls, the alignment on the front is off centre again.

Yes, will adjust spring perch back to stock this weekend.

EDFC is installed, running on 14/16 and it's a bit bouncy.
On anything 12 and under its firmer.

[aaronng]

Ingalls, the alignment on the front is off centre again.
Most of the tyre places know how to adjust the ingalls kit. If this guy doesn't have half a brain to figure out how to adjust the rear toe with the Ingalls kit, go to a different tyre shop, seriously.



Yes, will adjust spring perch back to stock this weekend.

EDFC is installed, running on 14/16 and it's a bit bouncy.
On anything 12 and under its firmer.
Is it bouncy at the front or rear? Also, 14/16 might be too many turns anticlockwise for the particular set of Monoflex you have because of manufacturing variations in the valving. In other threads, I always tell ppl to use at most only the first 15 clicks/16 positions starting from full clockwise because that is the limit before the valves get damaged. Maybe 16 is too much for your set. Does it improve at 14/15?

I drive around with my regular Flex at 11/10. Why not try 14/13? Might be a good compromise between 14/16 and sub-12.

[Crapdaz]

Most of the tyre places know how to adjust the ingalls kit. If this guy doesn't have half a brain to figure out how to adjust the rear toe with the Ingalls kit, go to a different tyre shop, seriously.
yeh i was fuming cause he was a noob.


Is it bouncy at the front or rear? Also, 14/16 might be too many turns anticlockwise for the particular set of Monoflex you have because of manufacturing variations in the valving. In other threads, I always tell ppl to use at most only the first 15 clicks/16 positions starting from full clockwise because that is the limit before the valves get damaged. Maybe 16 is too much for your set. Does it improve at 14/15?

I drive around with my regular Flex at 11/10. Why not try 14/13? Might be a good compromise between 14/16 and sub-12.

yeh i am still figuring it out the best combo. When on soft right, do you find it you bounce in your seat?
but i think i've adapted to hard. normally i drive with 3/5 but when i get to carparks i do 10/10.

I'll give your settings ago and see if i can notice any adv/disadv.

[aaronng]

yeh i am still figuring it out the best combo. When on soft right, do you find it you bounce in your seat?
but i think i've adapted to hard. normally i drive with 3/5 but when i get to carparks i do 10/10.

I'll give your settings ago and see if i can notice any adv/disadv.

I do 11/10 for street, 4/4 for track, and 15/16 when my mum is visiting. :)

[Crapdaz]

hey aaron, i know this is off topic from EDFC wiring but about what we were talking about the lower spring perch and lower mount. In regards to the stock height i measured the distance of the spring itself and the monoflex cannot get to that distance. approx 285mm longest monoflex can get to is about 230-40 then the spring gets too loose.

btw turning and adjusting the spring perch and lower mount would that stuff the wiring of the edfc motors? checked that they werent spinning when i adjusted so i am assuming no problems.

Thanks for your wisdom. Daz

[aaronng]

hey aaron, i know this is off topic from EDFC wiring but about what we were talking about the lower spring perch and lower mount. In regards to the stock height i measured the distance of the spring itself and the monoflex cannot get to that distance. approx 285mm longest monoflex can get to is about 230-40 then the spring gets too loose.

btw turning and adjusting the spring perch and lower mount would that stuff the wiring of the edfc motors? checked that they werent spinning when i adjusted so i am assuming no problems.

Thanks for your wisdom. Daz
You should adjust the lower mount first. Once you get to minimum height and you need to go lower, then only do you adjust the lower spring perch. Lower spring perch should be kept at stock height as per the installation manual specs in order to maintain proper damper operation.

Spring perch won't cause problem with the wiring, but adjusting the lower mount might because you are turning the shock body, and hence the wiring. Take off the EDFC motor and readjust, then put the EDFC motors back on with new loctite.