PDA

View Full Version : ECU Socketing



dsp26
04-06-2008, 01:16 PM
OK firstly pic below is derived from phearable.net
http://www.phearable.net/images/ecusocketingins.gif

I have installed this kit along with a rom which works fine but my question is, can someone explain what each of the components do. below are what I have found from my research already but please correct me if i'm wrong:

C51/C52 0.1uf Cap - filter the 5v going to the eprom and 74hc373
R54 1kohm resistor - sets chip enable on the eprom hi
J1 Jumper - swiches between internal rom and external rom (Bridged = Secondary enabled)
74HC373 - adds extra address lines so the MCU can fully address the external eprom
28 Pin ip Socket - Add-on chip obviously goes here...

***EDIT***
Thanks ECU-MAN for the info...


Search Keywords : Crome Hondata S100 Uberdata Neptune Socketing Chip Chipping eeprom eprom rom 74hc373

ECU-MAN
04-06-2008, 04:30 PM
C51, C52 filter the 5v going to the eprom and 74hc373

R54 sets chip enable on the eprom hi

J1 swiches between internal rom and external rom
74HC373 adds extra address lines so the MCU and fully address the external epom,

28pin socket your right

dsp26
04-06-2008, 05:35 PM
C51, C52 filter the 5v going to the eprom and 74hc373

R54 sets chip enable on the eprom hi

J1 swiches between internal rom and external rom
74HC373 adds extra address lines so the MCU and fully address the external epom,

28pin socket your right

Thanks, will edit post....

dsp26
04-09-2008, 09:42 PM
Hey John.. i just realised... i don't understand what you mean for R54

Limbo
05-09-2008, 11:09 AM
cool work guys, i'm just too scared i'll overheat something whilst soldiering and screw up the ECU

dsp26
05-09-2008, 01:25 PM
^^it's simple mate, i actually used a high wattage soldering iron coz the factory solder wouldn't melt :/

you won't actually burn anything since your inserting into blank areas.. except maybe the 74hc373 chip

but the mandatory items are:
- Soldering iron with fine tip
- safety coating remover spray if you can find it (it removes the hard stuff around the whole board and solder)
- solder wick.. a VERY good one


$20 worth of components and the car is crome ready :)

nd55
05-09-2008, 03:18 PM
> i actually used a high wattage soldering iron coz the factory solder wouldn't melt

sorry dsp, I don't want to let this pass without comment.

High wattage irons aren't the answer here as excess heat + time of application is what causes the #1 issue in circuitry rework in my experience, being lifted circuit tracks.

The solder doesn't 'harden' with age. It's usually oxidation and gunk buildup which a good cleaning can solve.

Also, a clean & 'tinned' soldering iron go a very long way.

Load the solder iron tip with a touch of solder to improve heat transfer if you have too.

Other wise a good thread. As soon as I get off my ass I'll be doing the Chrome ecu to.

Nick.

PS> I think I'm up for most anal post of the day.

Edgeauto
05-09-2008, 08:36 PM
not to hard until you need to do a JDM ECU with SMD component:eek:, even easier just to get ECU-MAN to do it:D

fatboyz39
05-09-2008, 10:25 PM
not to hard until you need to do a JDM ECU with SMD component:eek:, even easier just to get ECU-MAN to do it:D

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

dsp26
06-09-2008, 09:04 AM
not to hard until you need to do a JDM ECU with SMD component:eek:, even easier just to get ECU-MAN to do it:D

got board pics? read about it but don't actually know the difference....

Limbo
06-09-2008, 09:14 AM
just a quick point out this is an obd1 ECU right?

dsp26
06-09-2008, 09:54 AM
just a quick point out this is an obd1 ECU right?

yeah.. can't do obd2