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riruiz_88
08-06-2008, 10:11 PM
i got my self some new rotors, but i read on the net that when changing rotors to new ones that you should also change pads as well. is this a must? my brake pads have plenty of meat on them, dont really want to go and buy a new set if i dont have to.

kapten
09-06-2008, 11:53 AM
well IMO you dont have to change. I have changed my rotors before and used the same pads, but didn't notice anything weird.

dsp26
09-06-2008, 12:03 PM
i got my self some new rotors, but i read on the net that when changing rotors to new ones that you should also change pads as well. is this a must? my brake pads have plenty of meat on them, dont really want to go and buy a new set if i dont have to.

you should or at least get them machined or flattened, etc...

no point leaving dips like a vinyl record on your shiny brand spanker rotors because you got lazy...

sand em down yourself at least...

riruiz_88
09-06-2008, 01:44 PM
you should or at least get them machined or flattened, etc...

no point leaving dips like a vinyl record on your shiny brand spanker rotors because you got lazy...

sand em down yourself at least...

yeh thats what i was thinkin, would it make good brake contact. but yeh i will follow your idea on sanding the pads:thumbsup:
another question, when removing the drive shaft nut i have to bend out that little lip that has been folded dont i? what is the best method of doing this?

90LAN
09-06-2008, 01:47 PM
flat head screw driver or punch

CB7_OWNER
09-06-2008, 01:49 PM
I think the main reason is that, your old pads are usually molded to the old deformed rotor, and when you get new rotor the pad no longer sits in perfect contact..thus wearing the rotor down where is contacts most....

Um...as for the drive shaft nut.. im pretty sure you can just use a flat head and wedge it out......i recently replaced my cv shafts..and i recall using just the flat head.. and when it prys out a little, just wack on a breaker bar and get the nut off.


EDIT: BTW to make it easier.. you should loosen it will the car is still on ground, and have a friend apply the brakes for you, and place the car in neutral (auto and manual alike)

dsp26
09-06-2008, 01:55 PM
flat head screw driver or punch
:thumbsup::thumbsup:


I think the main reason is that, your old pads are usually molded to the old deformed rotor, and when you get new rotor the pad no longer sits in perfect contact..thus wearing the rotor down where is contacts most....

Um...as for the drive shaft nut.. im pretty sure you can just use a flat head and wedge it out......i recently replaced my cv shafts..and i recall using just the flat head.. and when it prys out a little, just wack on a breaker bar and get the nut off.
:thumbsup::thumbsup:

riruiz_88
09-06-2008, 07:19 PM
sweet, thanks for the answers guys :thumbsup:. how bout when puttin the nut back on? i have read that you should do it up right tight, then lossen it about 1/4 turn. does this sound right, cause this is what it said on the wheel bearing package.

trism
09-06-2008, 08:18 PM
its never wise to change the rotors and the brake pads at the same time

pads require bedding in, as do rotors.

pads have a coating over the surface that needs to be removed. if you put pads in and dont bed them in, and slam to a stop suddenly, you wont have any braking at all

same deal for the rotors. you need to bed in the rotors so that the surface isnt a perfectly smooth surface. new pads, and new rotors wont bed in properly together. as its a smooth surface on a smooth surface. if you want to crash, try it.
pads also wear quicker than rotors. obviously.

so in brake change, change the pads, then bed them in. them change the rotors, and follow the instructions to bed them in. any irregularities in teh surface of the old rotor that may be on the pad will soon be worn away from the fresh rotor