are these a/f ratios fine?

[MikeLary]

I know all engines are different but this is the map im tunning my car too. im 90% done and it feels better then my original map, would anyone do it different on a d16y4 turbod engine?

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r133/Funbar/Feeltune.jpg

[Limbo]

might wanna richen the the mix where you start to make boost.
Your running 14.7 at low load but high rpm.
If you start making boost at that point you might wanna richen it up to keep from detonating

[MikeLary]

okay cool ive richened the bottom (low load high rpm) to 13.7 now....

what do u mean richen when i make boost? richer then those above? (which points are u refering to)

[CRXer]

i think limbo is just a little bit confused......

u cant make boost & have low load in the same engine at the same time.

that will be a rough starting point mike,u might want to richen up columns 7-16 just a little to be safe,then get the thing on the dyno ASAP to find out what it really wants.

[Benson]

Are you running a wideband o/2 sensor? if not, get one and monitor the a/f readings.. then tune to suit..

[CRXer]

Yep he is benny,i bought an AF gauge of him recently,thanx again mike

[whtcrx]

ok
firstly
if you're running 20+psi, you dont have enough resolution in the boost area of the table. Reduce the number of NA mBar columns and create more boost ones to give better resolution for tuning.

secondly, columns 7,8,9,10 set to 12.8AF, column 11 to 12.5AF
The rest is OK.

Good luck with it, post a datalog or spreadsheet when done
:)

[whtcrx]

might wanna richen the the mix where you start to make boost.
Your running 14.7 at low load but high rpm.
If you start making boost at that point you might wanna richen it up to keep from detonating

How can one possibly make boost in "low load" ?

[MikeLary]

nah im not running 20psi, just 10psi but i thought id add the rest for others to see might as well get input on that for others too...

np crxer...
whtcrx... i like ur input mate, could i ask why ur making them richer, is it for safety or power or to cool things down?

[tekung89]

looks about right to me, i would follow that as well, but then again everyones got different setups. and i think Limbo is confused lol, this is done by pressure not revs. some people run leaner at idle i heard, like 18 O_O so i read

so roughly from -25 to 0 a gradual scale from 14.7ish to 13ish. and then in the boost portion from 0 to lets say 10psi. i start at around 12.8 (0-2psi), then scaling richer 12.5 (3-6psi) and 12.2 (7-10psi).

thats jus wat i read anyways self tuning ftw lols

[Limbo]

dunno but i can make boost depending on rpm even when i am on light loads.
Usually above 4,500rpm, usually when i am cruising on the hwy

On full WOT i make boost at about 3,000rpm.

On mine the leanst we could run it was 16:1 when under boost to keep the economy better.

we couldn't get it any leaner without it having issues. I'd be careful running it as lean as 18:1, rem its a boost car so it will always need richer mixtures than NA

[MikeLary]

wtf??? dont run 16 or 18 or any of that... keep it around 12-13.5 in boost ...

tekung the setup you mention is what my tuner done on the dyno, but then we did the above and ended up with better results, i guess it defenitly depends on the car, but i think that much fuel isnt required so early

edit: do you mean under boost as in below it or in it?

[whtcrx]

whtcrx... i like ur input mate, could i ask why ur making them richer, is it for safety or power or to cool things down?

Thanks.
its not so much cooling, its more to do with engine longevity.

[Weq]

my opinion:

As soon as it hits boost u want to dull the AFR right down. personally with my 350 it hits 11 as soon and we work down to 10.5 at redline. On a street car with an intake manifold not really optimised for boost, i think this is a fairly safe way to acheive things. The power you loose with 1ARF point is around 1-3%.

And remmber that you are measureing through the wideband. Usually on the dyno the tailpipe sniffer is post cat, so it cuts away some of the AFR. So when u see people tuning to 12:1 at redline (supposely optimal for power) they are actually seeing around 11:1 pre-cat/where your sensor is located.

Oh and my other advise for the D, keep the timing low. And i mean low. no more then 16deg total in boost. Its the best way to keep you headgasket firmly slated. I must rather give it more boost (14psi on a small turbo) then more timing. The guys on turbo turbod that consistantly run good times with no headgasket problems run anywhere from 12deg total to 3deg total at fullboost for +15psi. Its the key at keeping the stress on the cylinder walls down.

[MikeLary]

nice, thanx heaps for the tips Weq, ill give it a go i must admit though tunning it i use to get upto only 7psi max in first now i get the full 10psi in first on this huge t3/t4