HOW TO: Install speakers in your Jazz (graphic intensive)

[Kit]

Well, I've installed some speakers in the Jazz, and I tell you, working it all out (on the passenger side door first) wasn't easy. But once I knew how to do it, the drivers side door was a cinch...

I decided to take photos and write up a HOW TO, so you guys won't have to endure the pain that I went through :)

DISCLAIMER: While, this is the way I did the install, I don't claim that it is the best method, so please take the time to understand and plan the installation before you actually go and do it.

[Kit]

PREPARATION
If you have ever had a look at the Jazz speakers, they are moulded (fixed) into a plastic bracket that clips into the door. The speakers are not removable from the bracket; so in order to fit aftermarket speakers you need to have a bracket that you fix to the door, and then you mount your speakers onto the bracket.

NOTE: you can actually buy pre fabricated brackets for your jazz! they include a bracket and all the fittings to bolt straight into the Jazz door. I have seen these in Japan, but because of the difficulty of locating them locally, I opted to create brackets myself out of MDF.

This is what the door looks like with the speaker removed:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/512/1083Install_5.jpg
Notice the holes (circled). That is the main challenge, making a bracket to fit into these 3 holes (without drilling into the door)

[Kit]

MAKING THE BRACKETS
I decided to make brackets using 19mm MDF. I did this by removing the stock speakers, tracing a rough shape of the stock speakers onto the MDF, while making sure my outline covered the area where the holes were.

I then got a piece of paper and marked out where the holes were on the door, and i traced these onto my bracket. I used the speaker stencil that came with the speakers to draw the hole which the speakers were gonna sit.

I then cut the bracket out using a jig saw.
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/512/1083Install_6.jpg
You will notice that I have drilled three holes, one in the top and two down at the bottom. These holes line up with the holes in the door.

you will also see 4 smaller holes in the bracket, I placed the speaker into the bracket and drilled holes for fixing the speaker into the bracket.

I then made 6 pieces of MDF as shown below:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/512/1083Install_8.jpg
My plan was to place a piece of these small pieces of MDF behind each hole in the door, and then screw the speaker bracket onto them.

To finish off the brackets, I stuck some sticky foam (came with the speakers)onto the back. This should make the bracket sit nice and tight on the door, while sealing it off. (this step is optional).
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/512/1083Install_7.jpg

[Kit]

REMOVING THE DOOR TRIM
This step took me a considerable amount of time to work out. But once you know how to do it, its really easy.

The first step is to remove the lower half of the door handle. You will need to slide a flathead screwdriver into the locations shown below and gently pry it off. Wrap a thin cloth around the screwdriver to prevent scratching.
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/512/1083Install_9.jpg

This is how it looks with the lower half removed:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/512/1083Install_10.jpg

Next remove the 3 circled screws:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/512/1083Install_20.jpg

Now remove the screw in the door release handle. After removing the screw, the whole unit can be loosened by sliding it. Its important that the unit be loosened before you continue.
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/512/1083Install_21.jpg

After the above steps have been completed, you may now remove the door trim. This bit requires a fair bit of effort, and can scare you at first as it will make you think you have broken the door trim.
By grabbing the hole that the removed door handle has left behind (near the door edge) use a fair amount of force to pull the door trim away from the door itself. It will take a few goes, and when it does come free, it will come loose with a loud bang.
As shown below, the door trim is held on by plastic studs (circled), and they are very tight.
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/512/1083Install_22.jpg

Also remember to disconnect the wire plug that connects the power window switch. When the lower half of the door trim has been loosened, slide the door release handle through the hole in the trim, and then slide the whole door trim upwards. The door will look like this with the trim removed:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/512/1083Install_23.jpg

Now remove the stock speaker by inserting a screw driver into the top. Push downwards to release the metal latch, and the top of the speaker can be pushed outwards. Once out, slide the whole unit UP to remove it.
Then disconnect the stock wire harness.
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/512/1083Install_24.jpg

This is the passenger side door with the speaker removed:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/512/1083Install_1.jpg

[Kit]

FITTING THE BRACKET
Now as you will recall, I drilled holes in the bracket that lined up with the (retangular) holes in the door. I then made small pieces of MDF that would be placed behind the retangular holes and would secure the bracket onto these.
By using a G clamp, and clamping the bracket and the smaller MDF pieces together, screw the bracket onto the securing rear pieces.
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/512/1083install_2.jpg

This is what it looks like with the bracket secured:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/512/1083Install_3.jpg

And then connect up the wires to the speaker (the speakers I got came with a wiring harness that plugged straight onto the stock wiring harness. If you dont have these, you may need to cut/splice the stock speaker wires).

And then fix the speaker by screwing it into the holes previously drilled.

This is the end result:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/512/1083Install_4.jpg

Now reverse the whole process to refit the door trim.

Good Luck!

[Kit]

Just a few comments after the install..

The speakers were a significant upgrade from the stockers, and clarity was greatly increased. However I feel they were being let down by the Stock Head Unit..

Next upgrade: Head unit!

[toE]

Nice write up. :thumbsup:

I like it when a How To includes pics with arrows or the sort.

Maybe this can be in Articles forums. :)

[TypeG]

mate, do u mind help us to make the brackets and we pay u labour plus material coz i live in an apartment
=(

[FB008]

Nice one Kit.

Can't be stuffed upgrading my stock speakers just yet :)

[Kit]

mate, do u mind help us to make the brackets and we pay u labour plus material coz i live in an apartment
=(

hmmmmm.... well.. to be honest, i'm not exactly a tradesman, so my brackets aren't exactly the most round and the most neat ones you will find.

The hole in the bracket for the speaker will vary depending on the dome size.
And I won't be able to drill the holes for your speaker, cos holes can be in different locations for different speakers.
I'm in Sydney, so won't be able to measure all these for you.

would it be easier and cheaper to just get a local car audio shop to install them?

i mean, if people really wanted them, I guess I could make up a few sets...... :)

[Kit]

Nice one Kit.

Can't be stuffed upgrading my stock speakers just yet :)

the stock speakers are actually very ordinary, but as I said earlier, the stock headunit really lets the speakers down...

[dc]

u know, a simpler solution than cutting an xtra 6 small mdf blocks and putting em behind the rect. holes would be just to use nuts+bolts+washers(+foam)...

[TypeG]

install by JB cost $150 as a basic fee for bolt on man.....
i can send u my speakers diagram =)

[wynode]

Looking good Chris........good to see someone taking the time to take photos and do a write up!

[Kit]

u know, a simpler solution than cutting an xtra 6 small mdf blocks and putting em behind the rect. holes would be just to use nuts+bolts+washers(+foam)...

Yep, there are probably a multitude of methods for securing it, and I considered the nuts and bolt and washer method.

but I thought that the MDF blocks would be simpler and more secure, plus less likely to scratch the door itself (which might cause rust at a later date)

[Civic Si]

Wat is the most suitable size speakers to fit in a Jazz?

[spoon fit]

Wat is the most suitable size speakers to fit in a Jazz?
6 inch.

[Civic Si]

cool thanks!:)

[TypeG]

no
i find a way you can screw the speakers straight in with smaller speakers

[Paul Brooksbank]

For the correct door trim removal instructions, try the following link. http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual.htm

This also tells you the entire maintenance schedule and instructions.

Trust the Poms eh boys ?

[chan]

Hello,

I have removed the door handle cover and the 4 screws.

How to remove the door release handle and the door trim? Are there any tools required?

[redmugenjazz]

push to door handle towards the front of the car and pull outwards, there should be a clip holding the latch with a extender bar to open the door, flick the latch out with a flat tipped screw driver and flick the rod upwards - remove the door handle. Remove the door panel from the bottom, there should be a opening about the middle of the bottom of the door trim, insert a flat bar or long flat tipped screw driver and pry it out slowy. if u got small enough fingers - just use that at least u get a feel of what u are doing. hope this helps

[TGS79]

Hi Guys

if your intersted I think Stinger Australia does a radio replacement dash kit so you can put in a double or single DIN head unit - if you want to take your up grade further.

[samsung001]

Hi Guys

if your intersted I think Stinger Australia does a radio replacement dash kit so you can put in a double or single DIN head unit - if you want to take your up grade further.

hi...just wondering how much would that cost? does it effect the warranty? any thought ?

[TGS79]

You would have to pop down to your local car audio specialist store and see what they sell it for.

[japa_VTEC]

do the speakers require an amp to power them??

[Mollow]

do u have the website for those brackets in japan?

[ss-rotel]

All speakers require the audio to be amplified. all head decks have an amplifier. If you chose a set of cheap speakers with a high power rating, they'll have a very low effeincy rating, and you will need a higher powered amp to run them

If you plan to run your standard headdeck, (and honesly, if you want to upgrade it's alot of trouble for most ppl. You'll need to get a JDM dash surround for starters. I bought mine from Northfeild, and it cost me about $220. That was mates rates, and i've known the manager for a very long time), look for something with an effeicentcy ratein higher then 90db. Some Sony and kenwood speaker have 92db, and they'll be nice and loud with the 10wRMS or so that they stock deck supplys.

If you're a purist, this will still sound a little poo. Most lower power high effeceintcy speaker have very little control, and will sound muddy or tinny depending on the door.

While it's apart, please sound deadend the doors. You can pick up cheap stick on bitumen sheets from Autobarn if you ask nicely, and you'll need a heatgun to mount them properly.

Dynamat is much much better, but much more expensive. $60box of the above bitumen completely covered my Pug 205, with a sheet to spare, (talking 2x doors, rear panels, boot, A pillor and roof. everything in the cockpic spare the floor and fire wall) The $150 box of dynamat did the 2x front doors, and most of my boot in the jazz.

i have a set of Focal K2 Powers, that have a mounting depth of over 70mm. I'm running a 35mm MDF spacer, AND i had to dremel alot of the plastic re-enforcement out of the grill area on the door, and it still needs to be crossed over @ 140hz or it will hit the door.

140hz is VERY high crossover point for a system, but i'm using a Alpine 701 audio processor to time align the sub. from the drivers side, it feels/sounds like there's no sub, and everything's coming from the doors. (you add some time to the front stage, so the sub's wave front hits you @ the same time as the mids)

All pretty technical, and i'm relatively happy, considering that i've tuned it by ear/with a cheap RTA app on my iphone.

The problem i have with the setup ATM is the bottom shelf on the dash, screws up the accustics, as i run my tweet in the kicks. (give you the best imageing). i'm getting a resonance somewere, and i'm puttying it down to that. Need a real RTA to work it out.

Planing to move the K2P's into my tiguan and buy 4x 2inch peerless full range speakers for mids, setting 2x in the A pillor window, with a Fostek(?) Ribbon tweeter, and a 5inch Peerless subwoofer for the doors. Out of the states, from a company called madisound.

[ss-rotel]

OH, and if you want an awesome, fully sick subwoofer, the Imagedynamic ID8 8inch sub is awesome. It's small enuf to pretty much run in that little pocket in the drivers side in the boot, and in my current setup, i've had ppl swear that my systems' running a 12inch.

amp i'm using is an alpine 5 channel 1500w amp thou, (MRV-7863 i think.... something like thatcan't remember)