[CL9] Car Shaking between 85km - 110km/h

[Adrian Euro]

Can someone help me out with my car. My car shakes between the 85km/h and 110km/h. The whole car including the steering wheel.

I have previosly got advice from this forum and this is what i have done but still no problem and the mechanic keeps on charging to me to get this fixed but it seems to me its a hit and miss with him.

1. Raised my car back to original height
2. Changes front tyres
3. Got car re aligned and balanced
4. Change left drive shaft

What elese can i do to solve this problem?

[Darkii_]

mmm, im not quite sure on this one mate.

but my steering wheel also vibrates around those speeds, maybe we have the same problem? i swear it wasn't there when i first got the car, but then again i can't be sure

[aaronng]

Go to a different mechanic.
1) Check if your rims are buckled. A tyre shop can detect even a slightly buckled rim that is invisible to the naked eye. it will show up during balancing.
2) Check your middle and right shafts as well. To detect if the shaft is bent, get them to do an alignment, then take the laser off and rotate the wheel 90-180 degrees and then reattach the laser and check if the alignment changes.
3) What is your front toe?
4) What tyres do you have? Any bulging of the sidewall or tread?

[mars_panas]

Static balancing is the first step to do. IF the mechanic does not rotate the tires and balanced it statically there will be vibrations at the 80-100 km/hr region. If the tire is dynamically unbalanced, the vibration will be continuous.

[Type R Positive]

sounds like wheel allignment/balance, from my recent experience.
How are the tyres wearing?

[Adrian Euro]

Go to a different mechanic.
1) Check if your rims are buckled. A tyre shop can detect even a slightly buckled rim that is invisible to the naked eye. it will show up during balancing.
2) Check your middle and right shafts as well. To detect if the shaft is bent, get them to do an alignment, then take the laser off and rotate the wheel 90-180 degrees and then reattach the laser and check if the alignment changes.
3) What is your front toe?
4) What tyres do you have? Any bulging of the sidewall or tread?

Hello aaronng thanks for such a quick response.

1) Check if your rims are buckled. A tyre shop can detect even a slightly buckled rim that is invisible to the naked eye. it will show up during balancing. - Went to payless tyres who put stock tyres and rims on and the shake was still their. Also had them drive it on the hoist without wheels and shake still their.
2) Check your middle and right shafts as well. To detect if the shaft is bent, get them to do an alignment, then take the laser off and rotate the wheel 90-180 degrees and then reattach the laser and check if the alignment changes. Mechanics said he was sure it was the drive shafts and he wanted me to change them both. but he thought it was more the left than the front. So i bought the left shaft and got him to put them in. $500 buscks later still same shaking at high speeds. My concern if i spend another $500 on the right shaft and it doesn't fix it then i have wasted my money.

3) What is your front toe? - Whats a front toe????

4) What tyres do you have? Any bulging of the sidewall or tread? - I dont think any bulging i have federal 18's

[Adrian Euro]

Static balancing is the first step to do. IF the mechanic does not rotate the tires and balanced it statically there will be vibrations at the 80-100 km/hr region. If the tire is dynamically unbalanced, the vibration will be continuous.

But its strange that beofre this speed its ok and after this speed its also ok.

[Adrian Euro]

sounds like wheel allignment/balance, from my recent experience.
How are the tyres wearing?

I think they are ok from mechanics point of view. Tryed balancing doesn't solve problem also tried changing centric hub rings.... still no result.

[mars_panas]

But its strange that beofre this speed its ok and after this speed its also ok.

only happens around that speed limit... don't ask me why but i am 90% that is the cause of it... it happened to my mates car... :thumbsup:

[CB7_OWNER]

I get the same problem.. but i drive a 91 accord... Most vibrations are fixed with what was mentioned above by fellow members... but may i also add....

Check your Engine Mounts , specifically the rear... This may be the culprit.. if non of the above are..

EDIT: Another thing.. does this only occur in your final drive gear... e.g. 5 gear? and say you shift down to 4th gear while still maintaining the same speed then the vibration gets less or dissapears?

[Adrian Euro]

I get the same problem.. but i drive a 91 accord... Most vibrations are fixed with what was mentioned above by fellow members... but may i also add....

Check your Engine Mounts , specifically the rear... This may be the culprit.. if non of the above are..

EDIT: Another thing.. does this only occur in your final drive gear... e.g. 5 gear? and say you shift down to 4th gear while still maintaining the same speed then the vibration gets less or dissapears?

Thanks mate. It happ[ens whenever i accelerate between 85km-110km. doesn't mater what gear. Its more noticable if its foot to floor.

[aaronng]

Thanks mate. It happ[ens whenever i accelerate between 85km-110km. doesn't mater what gear. Its more noticable if its foot to floor.

If you use 3rd gear foot to the floor, do you get the same vibration?

[Adrian Euro]

If you use 3rd gear foot to the floor, do you get the same vibration?

Yes it does. Is this a good thing or a bad thing???? Mate it does every gear from 1 all the way though to six.... only have not been able to test reverse.

[aaronng]

Yes it does. Is this a good thing or a bad thing???? Mate it does every gear from 1 all the way though to six.... only have not been able to test reverse.
Does the steering wheel wobble badly in your hands? Or is it just a bad strong vibration?

If it is wobbling, then maybe driveshaft.
If it is vibrating, then maybe engine mount.

BTW, how do you get to 85-110km/h in 1st gear? I thought you didn't get the shaking below 85km/h?

[Adrian Euro]

Does the steering wheel wobble badly in your hands? Or is it just a bad strong vibration?

If it is wobbling, then maybe driveshaft.
If it is vibrating, then maybe engine mount.

BTW, how do you get to 85-110km/h in 1st gear? I thought you didn't get the shaking below 85km/h?

Sorry mate i ment foot to floor it vibrates or wobbles in any gear under high revs only a little bit, but noticable under 85km/h but the main shaking which is big comes between 85-110.

[tron07]

where are you at? If you are at Sydney, Headsman Steering is a good place to go to.

[Adrian Euro]

where are you at? If you are at Sydney, Headsman Steering is a good place to go to.

Yeah i thought i should eventuallly end up sending it their. But i thought my mechanic would be able to solve my problem.

[mars_panas]

hey good luck with the fix i am pretty sure u need Static balancing which i mentioned earlier...

but once you get it fix let us know what was the problem... :thumbsup:

[Adrian Euro]

hey good luck with the fix i am pretty sure u need Static balancing which i mentioned earlier...

but once you get it fix let us know what was the problem... :thumbsup:

Hey how do you do a static balance???

[mars_panas]

You need to go back to your mech...

Static Balance can be measured by a machine where the tire is placed in its vertical axis on a non-rotating spindle tool. The spot on the tire where the mass is greatest is acted on by gravity to deflect the tooling downward. The amount of deflection indicates the magnitude of the unbalance. The angle of the deflection indicates the angular location of the unbalance. In tire manufacturing factories static balancers operate by use of sensors mounted to the spindle assembly. In tire retail shops static balancers are most usually non-rotating bubble balancers, where the magnitude and angle of the unbalance is observed by looking at the center bubble in an oil-filled glass sighting gauge.

A wheel that lacks static balance will shake or tramp up-and-down. thats why your car shakes when you reach 85km - 110km/h

[SiReal]

factory rims? if aftermarket, might be hub rings u need...

[Adrian Euro]

factory rims? if aftermarket, might be hub rings u need...

Nah mate tried hub rings and tried putting stock rims 16inch back on again... still same problem.

[tony1234]

I'm thinking your problem is to do with the driveshafts and or CV joints.Heasmans are good go there if you're in Sydney.

[tron07]

IMHO, shaking or vibration is nothing to do with alignment or toe....

Do wheel balancing, on wheel balancing prefered.

[HondaTechy]

Why did you only do one driveshaft?did they get you another shaft or did they send yours away for repair?sounds like the inner driveshaft joint has been damdged due to you lowered ur car.it changers the angle the shaft runns at.two things remove the drive shaft strip and clean the inner joint and check for any marking on the inner shaft balls where the run in the joint.where are you located pm.if i was you i would send the shafts away and make sure they replace not reco the inner driveshaft joints.if you changed wheels back to standard ones and it dident fix it its not going to be a wheel balance problem.

[tron07]

Very true.....

[Cranial]

I'm currently experiencing pretty much the exact same problem. Any speed above 80kmh, the car starts to shake - mostly when I'm stepping on the gas. If I back off the gas, the shaking reduces. I've spoken to my mechanic and he says its most likely to be my driveshafts as well. Will go and get it checked out soon (I've rebalanced/cross-rotated tyres, no improvement either). I also have a lowered car (on Tein Flex's) - which would explain if it is the driveshafts that are worn/damaged... I drive on Sydney roads for a few hours a day.

[aaronng]

I would have thought that the CV joints would go first before the driveshafts. Also, do you drive on shitty roads with lots of sharp bumps like Parra Rd at Auburn or Hume Highway at the Regents Park side?

[Cranial]

Mostly on Lane Cove road, Victoria Road. There are some sharp bumps on them. I also go on Parra Rd and the Hume on most weekends. Definately not good for the drivetrain, let alone my kidneys.

[aaronng]

Well, you can either use the alignment method to see if there is a difference as you rotate the wheels, or just change all 3 driveshafts.

[tron07]

how much does the drive shafts cost??

[Adrian Euro]

how much does the drive shafts cost??

Drive shafts brand ner are around $700 each side..... not installed and second hand of a wreck with no front end damage your looking at around $320 - $500. Depends if you can find a wrecker who has them which is rare......

[BraXta]

ive got this problem too but another thing can be added which was found by another Ozhonda Euro member was the CV Joint bearing was found to be the culprit on his

I showed my mechanic and he said its 1 of 3 things

1. Engine mounts
2. Driveshaft
3. CV Joints...

he said its due to when you accellerate the engine moves... right.. now this happening after a long time or certain amount of Kms can cause damage to the above listed... he said hes seen it before on many FWD cars... so hes pretty sure its 2 and 3 cause 1 was checked on my 100k service.

and i trust me mechanic.. he is a race car mechanic on the weekends with years of experience =P hehehe

[EUR003act]

i had/have the exact same problem...

i originally had very bad vibration between 85-110km/hr... wheel balance and alignment did nothing....

got brand new rims and tyres.... reduced the vibration massively... but when under heavy braking, would still do it (especially in the steering wheel)...

i replaced the rotors, and that got rid of the vibration during braking issue...

but now i still get just a very slight vibration between those speeds... dont really notice it, its not until i drive someone elses car that i notice how smooth their steering wheel is...

so im guessing its definately not a brake/rotor/wheel/tyre/alignment/balance problem...

has to be driveshafts or CV joiints or engine mounts as said by others

[exISeuro]

I too have this shaking issue, noticeable 75% of the time between 75-95km/h dependant on throttle pressure.

Iam running on stock suspension and have had a change of tyres + balance since i first noticed the problem.

Havent had it looked at by a mechanic yet.

Interesting to see a number of us amongst a the forum have the issue. Are the more out there ?

My car is a 5AT 2004 with 125000km.

Would be interesting to see if my issue is the same as the others, might be an idea to get one of yous to drive my car and vice versa.

[Adrian Euro]

ive got this problem too but another thing can be added which was found by another Ozhonda Euro member was the CV Joint bearing was found to be the culprit on his

I showed my mechanic and he said its 1 of 3 things

1. Engine mounts
2. Driveshaft
3. CV Joints...

he said its due to when you accellerate the engine moves... right.. now this happening after a long time or certain amount of Kms can cause damage to the above listed... he said hes seen it before on many FWD cars... so hes pretty sure its 2 and 3 cause 1 was checked on my 100k service.

and i trust me mechanic.. he is a race car mechanic on the weekends with years of experience =P hehehe

I will be able to tell you if its number 2 or 3 as i am currently getting the drive shafts changed now????? If you change the drive shafts i have been told that the cv joints are in those shafts. Anyone know if this true????

[Type R Positive]

If you change the drive shafts i have been told that the cv joints are in those shafts. Anyone know if this true????
It should be one complete unit. You can buy the bearings and crap separately though.

[Adrian Euro]

Hi Everyone after a few days left in limbo with my car at the mechanics the drive shafts have been changed. The shaking has now stopped and it runs smooth from 0-100km with no vibrations. So the problem ended up being the drive shafts. Hope this helps anyone else that has this problem.

[tron07]

damage to your wallet??

[Adrian Euro]

damage to your wallet??

Shafts Cost $320 - $500 per side second hand and around $750 Per side brand new. Plus installation of around $100-$200 per side. There is a guy on this thread who says he can get them reconditioned for $450inc labor. I decided to get second hand onces for $320 each plus install of $150 per side. Unfortunately i already had bought the drive shafts before the other guy on this thread offered the second alternative.

[tony1234]

Shafts Cost $320 - $500 per side second hand and around $750 Per side brand new. Plus installation of around $100-$200 per side. There is a guy on this thread who says he can get them reconditioned for $450inc labor. I decided to get second hand onces for $320 each plus install of $150 per side. Unfortunately i already had bought the drive shafts before the other guy on this thread offered the second alternative.
Nearly $2K Ouch!How old is your car?

[Adrian Euro]

Nearly $2K Ouch!How old is your car?

My car was bought in 2003 brand new. Its done 135,000km Nah it wasn't 2k but it would be that much for a new set. I paid the second hand ones and install. Fixed the problem though. Drives like gem.

[Crapdaz]

My car was bought in 2003 brand new. Its done 135,000km Nah it wasn't 2k but it would be that much for a new set. I paid the second hand ones and install. Fixed the problem though. Drives like gem.
good to hear its fixed it.

damn man, mine is 03 brand new and only 67,xxx km!!!
YOU DRIVE TOO MUCH!!!!

[Adrian Euro]

good to hear its fixed it.

damn man, mine is 03 brand new and only 67,xxx km!!!
YOU DRIVE TOO MUCH!!!!

Yeah an i do alot of driving. I get bored some times so usually go for a drive with my girl..... plus i drive around 400-500km a week to and from work..... from sutherland shire to city everyday and back........

[aaronng]

Nearly $2K Ouch!How old is your car?Well, it is part of the running cost for a car that age if it has been driven on bad roads. Even my clutch replacement cost quite a fair bit in labour and is something that eventually has to be done if you plan to keep the car for long.

[Crapdaz]

Well, it is part of the running cost for a car that age if it has been driven on bad roads. Even my clutch replacement cost quite a fair bit in labour and is something that eventually has to be done if you plan to keep the car for long.
couple of grand compared to having to fork out another 40k on another car, having it for longer would be worth the money put in.