Using Pod in a N/A car

[ej20i]

is there any real advantages??will this slow the car down or give me a better performance?

[rayb3na_]

maybe like 1 kW difference? if your lucky.. it helps your engine breathe better so response is slightly noticeably better. IMO.

[kelviN]

More power....not alot but probably all in the high revs. And better in gear response and accelearation. It was a good upgrade for me since my old panel filter looked like it was 10years old ( most likely is a 10y.o filter since no service history of it being changed )

[ej20i]

so u guys reckon its well worth to spend on?

[kazam]

yes, it sounds much better, just do a bit of searching

[[ricer]]

narh k&n air filter drop in would be a much better option unless ur going for a proper cai with a pod...the ones where the filter sits outside the engine bay

[ej20i]

hmmm...they dun make it yet for the FDs...

[SeverAMV]

i'd recommend a 3a racing pod over a k&n, mainly because in a flow and filtration test it recorded better figures, plus they're a third of the price of a k&n at your local motoquipe.

[rayb3na_]

lol ^^^^^ quoted from asm.. ahaha

[SeverAMV]

its the only magazine with recent flowbench figures. plus, they seem to be the best ones going around for efi motors. if it was a carby motor, i'd recommend a pipercross setup.

[Crapdaz]

is there any real advantages??will this slow the car down or give me a better performance?

depends what performance your looking for.

CAI - high rev range power, smoother revving, slower response at low rev range. nice sound.
SRI - more responsive, low rev range power, rougher revving, more cabin vibration and noisiest elephant take.
K&N - quiet mostly, noisier when you want to rev it, slight gains throughout the rev range (sleeper)

customise your own setup to fit ftw.

hope this helps a bit.

[mattchuej8]

Personally i dont see much point in just getting an SRI (Short ram intake) if the pods going to sit next to the engine sucking up all the hot air.
Id say,
get an aftermarket filter, and just replace your stock filter.
keep the OEM box and stuff.
Unless you were going for a CAI (cold air intake)
which clearly by the name just takes up cold air which is good.

Also, make sure you get a decent air filter.
they differ in filtration. So if you get some crappy arse one off ebay or something.
Its not really filtering the air, thus letting all that crap in yyour engine.
which might lead to power loss.

Correct me if im wrong please :)

[EuroAccord13]

Alot of people think that SRI will just be sucking in hot air.
Yes, it sucks up hot air due to the close proximity of the engine but only when you are in heavy traffic. The velocity of the air running under the car while it is being driven creates a vacumn which sucks out the hot air in the engine bay. Unless you are ever going to be stuck in nose to nose traffic, then a CAI would be a better option for you at the demise of low end response.

Better still, do a boxed SRI pod intake for the best of both Worlds.......

[SeverAMV]

EuroAccord13 is right in saying that there are benefits from an SRI.

have any of you guys measured the rate of flow of air behind a headlight? its surprisingly high. the vaccuum generated by the induction sucks in air all the way around the headlight (its a lot more air than you'd think, especially in a moving vehicle), and on top of that, radiator fans seem to produce a lot of cold air right behind the headlight as well. sure you do get some hot air getting sucked out, but imo, its worth it because of the response you gain from an SRI compared to a CAI.

[Simmo2302]

speaking of crappy pods's. anyone had any experience from cheap pods from supercheap (AIRHOG'S) or anywhere else ?

any difference compared to better quality ones (assuming u changed to better ones afterwards)

[typerdevil]

Go Injen!

[Crapdaz]

K&N are the best filters.

[VT1-R]

speaking of crappy pods's. anyone had any experience from cheap pods from supercheap (AIRHOG'S) or anywhere else ?

any difference compared to better quality ones (assuming u changed to better ones afterwards)

I jus say an AIRHOG pod filter going for $69.95 in Super cheap!! whahaha..

[I heart the SSS]

Alot of people think that SRI will just be sucking in hot air.
Yes, it sucks up hot air due to the close proximity of the engine but only when you are in heavy traffic. The velocity of the air running under the car while it is being driven creates a vacumn which sucks out the hot air in the engine bay. Unless you are ever going to be stuck in nose to nose traffic, then a CAI would be a better option for you at the demise of low end response.

Better still, do a boxed SRI pod intake for the best of both Worlds.......

Listen to this man, he does not have a green screen name for no reason..

At the moment I am building a SRI style intake, with a heatshielded POD. From this, the pod has flexpipe going down into the bumper, feeding it cold air.

So it's kind of a SRI cross CAI.. IMO the best intake.

If you want a pod, YOU MUST HEAT SHIELD IT!

You'll no doubt experience a loss in power if you let it sit under the hood, well I did anyway (MAP sensor trips out and goes OMFG DANGER TO MANIFOLDD and runs a shitty rich tune, which kills your power or whatever power you had)

If your going to do a SRI, just do it properly..

You need to...

Go to bunnings, pick up some .5 mil aluminium (I cant spell), 600 X 900 in size say (they have it precut). It's 25 bucks

Then get some cardboard, and make a template for your custom box.

REMEMBER! to leave a hole so you can feed some flexpipe from it into your bumper / place where it'll get cold air shoved up it. Experiment with placement :)

THEN, use tin snippers and pop rivets and make a metal box according to your template, make sure it has a way to be held onto the chassis.

Paint it all black too, so it looks semi sleeper LOL.

THEN before you go off ripping seconds everywhere, RESET YOUR ECU!!

ECU reset

This is a key factor to actually making your mods have an effect!

Disconnect the battery.. for 30 minutes..

Reconnect, and let idle for 5 to 10 until its warm, MAKE SURE AIRCON / LIGHTS ETC are off!

Then turn the car off..

Then for the next 30 mins to 1 hour of driving, hammer the car as hard as you can.

Your ECU will learn from this, and run according to your new mods.

NOTE! AVOID REDLINE! STAY 700 RPM(ISH) OFF YOUR REDLINE!

I hope I helped

[Simmo2302]

Go to bunnings, pick up some .5 mil aluminium (I cant spell), 600 X 900 in size say (they have it precut). It's 25 bucks


as a sheetmetal tradesman i'd have to disagree, aluminium transfers heat very well, it absorbs and releases it very quickly.

if u r going to use aluminium i would suggest getting some thin rubber/foam or other insulating type material from somewhere (bunnings,clark rubber) and use araldite glue to adhere it to the inside of the box.

this is y al good intakes are made of stainless steel not aluminium so they donot absorb heat as they go near the engine and transfer it into the air bing sucked in.

[aaronng]

if u r going to use aluminium i would suggest getting some thin rubber/foam or other insulating type material from somewhere (bunnings,clark rubber) and use araldite glue to adhere it to the inside of the box.

this is y al good intakes are made of stainless steel not aluminium so they donot absorb heat as they go near the engine and transfer it into the air bing sucked in.
Stainless steel still does absorb heat, but doesn't increase in temperature as quickly as aluminium. Smaller temperature difference, slower heat transfer. They still transfer some heat.

BTW, rivets are a better choice to secure rubber sheeting to aluminium/steel. Looks kinkier too! :p

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/554/10topcoverrubberee1.jpg

[trism]

ok, a pod wont do anything.

in teh latset Igntition DVD they have a segment in which they are modding a car on a budget, and one of the first things they look at is filters.

the difference between stock airbox and filter, high flow filter, no filter, no airbox, and a pod is like, less than 1kw difference.....

whats the moral of the story? save your money, and keep the stock airbox, and just run dome flexi pipe into it

[vinnY]

one of the first things they look at is filters.

maybe thats their problem, can't make it breath better by opening its lungs and keeping its mouth closed

[trism]

that made little sense.

when people get a car, and they dont have much money, whats the first thing they are gonna do to it?

fcuk with the intake, thats what

[aaronng]

that made little sense.

when people get a car, and they dont have much money, whats the first thing they are gonna do to it?

fcuk with the intake, thats what

I thought that if they don't have much money that they would put what little they had into a savings account with high interest...

[vinnY]

well whats the point of getting air in fast if you can't get it out as efficiently?

[trism]

I thought that if they don't have much money that they would put what little they had into a savings account with high interest...

youd think so wouldnt you. but, go look at threads noobs make



well whats the point of getting air in fast if you can't get it out as efficiently?

coat of airfilter: $50

cost of exhaust: $500

[aaronng]

coat of airfilter: $50

cost of exhaust: $500
Finding out after spending the last $550 in your bank account that the header is limiting everything: Priceless.

[Simmo2302]

i m gunna sound like an idiot but when you say exhaust....

wouldnt you assume that would inclue the headers?

or do most noobs just get a cat-back system?

[trism]

Finding out after spending the last $550 in your bank account that the header is limiting everything: Priceless.

yes!!!

but you arent a noob!!!!!!!!!!


you actually know things!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


someone who doesnt know anything will do an airfilter first!!!!!!

[Simmo2302]

well to all the noobs out there, i'll make u a paper-mache exhaust for $550, after the first few mins it'll b like there no back pressure at all.....promise

[aaronng]

i m gunna sound like an idiot but when you say exhaust....

wouldnt you assume that would inclue the headers?

or do most noobs just get a cat-back system?

I usually mean catback when I say exhaust because when you say you change the exhaust, it doesn't imply that you are changing the headers as well and vice versa. But many people have different interpretations.

[vinnY]

aaron would be right, something that gets thrown around these forums is 'i/h/e'
intake
headers
exhaust
implying that headers aren't really part of the exhaust to some people

also i may have been a bit vague in my comments, but i was referring to your post about the ignition dvd guys doing the pod first, trism
what i meant was that a pod is useless by itself if its not supported by other mods
no point putting a sri/cai if you still have a pea shooter sized exhaust
no point putting a 3" exhaust if you have a 1.5L n/a engine with a straw for an intake
no point having a nice catback and awesome cai and have stock headers which have a collector size of a maccas straw
hence my bad analogy.. not sure why you're going into the issue of cost though.

[aaronng]

Yeah, but seeing some people can't go for I/H/E all in 1 go, doing it step by step is fine... as long as they are not going into debt just for I/H/E (but that is their decision). hehehehe....

I have to admit, my car had just an intake and stock everything else before.

[fitvpower]

on a stock intake, your intake takes air from the outside into your engine, the ECU adjusts the amount of fuel your engine takes by taking readings from the MAP sensor(measures the velocity of air entering your intake manifold) and the IAT (measures the temperature of air at the manifold). With the stock intake, the air moves slowly through the intake manifold and the intake housing is usually hot. on the ecu's pov, there's no point sticking more fuel into the engine (it will not have enough air to burn and make the engine run lean = more fuel dumped into exhaust = damages the cat converters) so the ecu sends signals to the injectors to inject less fuel into the engine, hence you get good fuel economy. but dodgey profermance.

when u get anyform of intake, besides getting colder denser air into your engine, you also increase the flow rate of air. this tells the ecu to tell the injectors to pump more fuel into the engine, this will obviously increase the fuel mileage but you also increase the performance. my intake gives me better acceleration, havent; dynoed for exact KW but my car tells me i running 8l/100km which increased from 6l/100km on stock intake. so in my opinion, you can't get both power increase aswell as mileage. but i always go for performance, f**k mileage.

[eg5civic]

ECU reset

This is a key factor to actually making your mods have an effect!

Disconnect the battery.. for 30 minutes..

Reconnect, and let idle for 5 to 10 until its warm, MAKE SURE AIRCON / LIGHTS ETC are off!

Then turn the car off..

Then for the next 30 mins to 1 hour of driving, hammer the car as hard as you can.

Your ECU will learn from this, and run according to your new mods.

NOTE! AVOID REDLINE! STAY 700 RPM(ISH) OFF YOUR REDLINE!

I hope I helped


Does this actually work???

[fitvpower]

i tried n still same power as usual

[trism]

on the ecu's pov, there's no point sticking more fuel into the engine (it will not have enough air to burn and make the engine run lean = more fuel dumped into exhaust = damages the cat converters)


umm, not having enough air to burn all teh fuel is running rich, not lean

lean is where there is an abundance of oxygen in teh mixture, and the flame burns very ****ing hot, which is why pistons melt when you NOS to much, because adding nitrous is adding more oxygen.

[I heart the SSS]

Does this actually work???

It depends on your ECU

IF you car has a "smart" ecu that you can teach, then yes, it does.

My car isn't a honda, it's a Toyota with a 4A-GE and this works perfect.

[hisoka]

your going to void your warranty if your driving fd isnt it ?~

[fitvpower]

umm, not having enough air to burn all teh fuel is running rich, not lean

lean is where there is an abundance of oxygen in teh mixture, and the flame burns very ****ing hot, which is why pistons melt when you NOS to much, because adding nitrous is adding more oxygen.

oops, yea its rich, nos is not worth getting eh, if your using ur car other than racing. too risky, get turbo, at least u can control the air/fuel a little better.

[aaronng]

lean is where there is an abundance of oxygen in teh mixture, and the flame burns very ****ing hot, which is why pistons melt when you NOS to much, because adding nitrous is adding more oxygen.

Actually, it is because people install dry kits and expect the stock ECU to compensate for the nitrous. They wouldn't have this problem (or the risk is lessened significantly) if they used a wet-kit setup instead.

[thescotty]

i gained 50 or so more kms in petrol and alot more noise