D16 piston upgrade

[paps02]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ZC-Dome-Pistons-Civic-CRX-Si-D16-Rings-Bearings-Gasket_W0QQitemZ180255352465QQcmdZViewItem?hash=it em180255352465&

anybody know something about these pistons or the brand "nippon pistons" from japan? looking to get these for my turbo conversion to be...

[[ricer]]

going for hicomp turbo set up?

[paps02]

dunno how high i want to go yet. but i want to have a nice strong base to start off. not just boost a stock engine with 130***kms on it.

you think it may be unnecesary?

[[ricer]]

how much power are you after?
just boost your d16y8 with 8-9psi... with a good tune it should hold up and make 130kw
and if things go wrong then a replacement motor wont cost you that much...

[nick_sixx]

yeah buddy, probably not necessary yet. i just bought my turbo kit and ive got 152 000 kms. if you are after a cheaper option, suzuki vitara pistons are a direct bolt-in, and have a lower compression rate, which is pretty much ideal for a turbo d16

[nd55]

> anybody know something about these pistons or the brand "nippon pistons"

YCP brand Vitara pistons are the piston of choice for turbo builds.

Look around www.d-series.org for MANY references.

They are a very low compression (8:1) non-forged, heat treated aluminium piston. They have a (teflon .. maybe) coating on the piston surface

> vitara pistons are a direct bolt-in

Not quite, they are almost always paired with aftermarket rods. OEM wrist pins are interfence fit. Aftermarket are floating requiring locks.

Also, on stock length D16 rods the YCP pistons sit low in the bore, either:
* take advantage of it with a high boost build
* Choose a high compression piston. YCP makes those too.
* Use some slightly longer rods like
http://fjdistributors.com/product_info.php?cPath=58&products_id=270
* B18C rods are the right length, but the piston pin is 21mm and the big end is slightly too narrow. You got a fancy workshop available to you?
* B18B rods are the same length as D16. Again the piston is 21mm and the big end is slightly too wide.

D16 rods are 19mm piston pin, 137mm long.
B18C rods are 21mm piston pin, 137.9mm long.
B18B rods are 21mm p.p. 137mm long.

SOrry cant remember exact journal widths.


Like I said low comp YCP's are choice for those on a budget, with many success stories behind them.

When Turbo D's fail it's usually an oiling issue which breaks a con rod.

Invest in a D16Z6 oil pump, a Moroso Accumulator II and do the mods suggested by Endyn.

The D16Z6 oil pump means you will lose the dip stick hole.

The person behind the next link has been on d-series.org for a while. Has started his own parts distribution business. Have no experience here, but again, it'd be on d-series.

http://fjdistributors.com/product_info.php?products_id=163


My experiences with Automotivepwr (on Ebay), are such that I'd try somewhere else first.


Nick.

PS. D16 block maximum oversize piston is 75.5mm.

PPS. Sorry don't know much about the Nippon's, I just thought you might not be aware of some other choices.

[aimre]

Ok, well from my actual experiance.

U dont need to strengthen ur engine, in any way as long as u keep to around 160kw. Yes that is correct NO ENGINE MODS.

Also, the things that go on D-series is the rods, cos their quite thin, but again, not a problem below 170kw.

nd55 said its oiling issues... its not, the rods are just thin as a bees dick

[paps02]

thats some good advice guys. there was a piston & rod package on sale from the same guy aswell.

so too conclude... for a half bar (7-8psi ish) no real need to do engine mods. but if one was to step up the boost then the way to go is to get high comp pistons and strengthen the rods as a first stage to upgrading the engine?

[SeverAMV]

head to www.fjdistributors.com and buy their turbo motor kit. with a turbo motor, you want your pistons to have negative dome, as positive dome + boost may increase compression, but it swirls the mixture outwards and stresses out your rings more. the rings in pm7 and p29 pistons generally only last about 50,000km in NA use, expect lower life when used in boosted applications.

as nd55 has mentioned, head to www.fjdistributors.com and purchase the ycp vitara turbo motor kit, and if you want more compression, get their custom length rods (comes with rod bolts similar to arp in strength) to bring the pistons to deck height.

and as nd55 also mentioned, try to improve the flow of oil to prevent premature rod failure. d series motors are fairly old, they dont have oil sprays in the bottom end to maintain lubrication of the rods.

nippons arent too bad, but theyre just a basic cast iron type brand. ycp pistons are better due to being teflon coated, t-6 heat treated and a stronger ac8a grade casting process, which makes them stronger than honda oem.

[paps02]

im lookin at 700 for turbo motor kit and rods then + postage = 1k ish

still goto get turbo kit. looking at 2.5k (including fmic and piping and 440 injectors and braided oil lines).
f1 clutch and fly = 500 there

so its looking at 4k without tune and without install... omg im going to be a bumb and all im going to own is a depretiating car :-(

[SeverAMV]

its better than doing a cheapo turbo conversion and having a rod snap, a piston contact the valves and a valve shooting through the head. theres no such thing as a cheap turbo conversion, only good and bad ones.

[Lukezen27]

im lookin at 700 for turbo motor kit and rods then + postage = 1k ish

still goto get turbo kit. looking at 2.5k (including fmic and piping and 440 injectors and braided oil lines).
f1 clutch and fly = 500 there

so its looking at 4k without tune and without install... omg im going to be a bumb and all im going to own is a depretiating car :-(

Dude your buying the wrong kit if your doing all that to your motor...

All that work will be wasted on the GReddy Kit..........

Custom or maybe Rev harder
http://www.turbo-kits.com/civic_turbo_kits.html

And dude don't get a lightweight flywheel or by mine when i got back to stock lol

[hisoka]

are you going for hard out performance or you want a little something here and there.~because if its the second one i would just buy a b16a swap, because that way iam getting new gearbox with way lower ks, because d series gearbox always has problem in the ends~

[hayashi_1986]

im lookin at 700 for turbo motor kit and rods then + postage = 1k ish

still goto get turbo kit. looking at 2.5k (including fmic and piping and 440 injectors and braided oil lines).
f1 clutch and fly = 500 there

so its looking at 4k without tune and without install... omg im going to be a bumb and all im going to own is a depretiating car :-(

That's cheap enough already for a pre-built for boost motor and a kit. Not to mention, the clutch and flywheel kits you get here are around 1k to start. Getting a high-boost D16 with all the proper things done right will cost up to and over 10k...Weq's car is a good example of a properly built and tuned D-turbo, might want to ask him how much it all ran for. So yeah, 4-5k is in the norm. I had been researching the same thing before I opted for the H22A.

Cheers

[paps02]

thanks for the input all. just want to say im still deciding which route i want to take. whether to get a high boost setup and get the rebuild. or just keep it low and run stock internals.