Fuel Consumption

[Lazarus]

a/c making fuel consumption so terribad..makes me a sad panda.

[tron07]

Question.

how far do you guys run your tank to? for example i ran mine down to the trip computer saying i had 26km left, ave 7.2lt/100km and roughly 730km to the tank. BUT when i filled it only gave me 55litres. so even though the trip computer says its close to empty, will the tank still have upto 80-100km of fuel left?

I ran to 0 before....

I think I still have at least 1-2l of fuel in the tank, lines, the filter, pump, etc...

[Fredoops]

Now im starting to hate it.... only managing 11-12 liters per 100kms daily driving >_<

This is getting ridiculous, im using more fuel than my civic....

either the Short ram intake is playing with the afr, this meaning needing a oem air box or either the o2 sensor is playing up...... any ideas guys?

Im getting about the same.... and I dont even have a SRI, I've got a icebox CAI lol......

It's the ECU i reckon, flooding the cylinders lol

[marquee]

Try resetting your ecu see if that helps i do mine one a year helps a but i get 575 litres cbf doing the conversion constantly and i drive..........

[mugen_ctr]

Im getting about the same.... and I dont even have a SRI, I've got a icebox CAI lol......

It's the ECU i reckon, flooding the cylinders lol

good idea :D, will try that out 2morrw, thanks!

[ryaan]

good idea :D, will try that out 2morrw, thanks!

should try this soft reset and see if it actually works :D.. its from another thread
///

Originally Posted by aty06tl

02-01-2007, 3:55 PM
aty06tl
Registered User


Post #11


Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 7 Hesitation

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi,

I got this from another forum and it works for a lot of people including me.

The Throttle is "Drive By Wire" and adapts to your particular driving
style. Do a TBA Throttle body adaptation.

1. Get in your car, it doesn't matter if you close the door or not.

2. Turn the key to the on (not start) position, the position just before the starter
turns over.

3. Press the gas pedal to the floor with the key in the "on" position.

4. Hold the pedal to the floor for five seconds, then turn the key back
to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas
pedal.

5. Wait 2 mins. for a full alignment.

6. Drive the car as you always do.

Depending on your driving style, this may or may not be a big factor. I do a lot of city driving so
I noticed a big change after erasing my history. It is not hard to do this, just follow the instructions -

Key on, pedal down, 5 sec, key off pedal up, wait 2
minutes.

Keep the key in for the entire thing.

Seems to work on mine.

[richard_k]

Thanks to my revival of that other thread I think? Haha

[mugen_ctr]

thanks guys, normally on older cars, id just DC the battery an let all the power drain, and pull the ecu fuse for a reset, but this way seems much easier lol

[tron07]

11-12 liters per 100kms

pretty normal for city driving... dont fret about it.

but if highway, you can drop it to 5l, look at my photo few pages back.

[ryaan]

Thanks to my revival of that other thread I think? Haha

yupp hehehe :P

[richard_k]

Anyone got a hyclone? Hahaha

[Fredoops]

should try this soft reset and see if it actually works :D.. its from another thread
///

Originally Posted by aty06tl

02-01-2007, 3:55 PM
aty06tl
Registered User


Post #11


Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 7 Hesitation

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi,

I got this from another forum and it works for a lot of people including me.

The Throttle is "Drive By Wire" and adapts to your particular driving
style. Do a TBA Throttle body adaptation.

1. Get in your car, it doesn't matter if you close the door or not.

2. Turn the key to the on (not start) position, the position just before the starter
turns over.

3. Press the gas pedal to the floor with the key in the "on" position.

4. Hold the pedal to the floor for five seconds, then turn the key back
to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas
pedal.

5. Wait 2 mins. for a full alignment.

6. Drive the car as you always do.

Depending on your driving style, this may or may not be a big factor. I do a lot of city driving so
I noticed a big change after erasing my history. It is not hard to do this, just follow the instructions -

Key on, pedal down, 5 sec, key off pedal up, wait 2
minutes.

Keep the key in for the entire thing.

Seems to work on mine.


Hmm that resets the DBW settings/Memory, but not the ECU tho....

Resetting the ECU will help for a short while, then it learns to burn rich again.....

[MingZai]

Mate I don't know if I fueled up my car not to the full point but I'm halfway through my tank and it's only reading approx $250 KM... thats soo freaking bad lol..

[d_evilz]

half tank i get roughly 300-350km

[marquee]

Half i tank i get 300 or so but the last half goes much quicker for some reason

[richard_k]

Half i tank i get 300 or so but the last half goes much quicker for some reason

That's because there's the 10L reserve for when the fuel light comes on..that's why its not even

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

[pitiek]

Anyone care to share what is the best tyre pressure for daily highway drive to help fuel consumption? And should I check the tyre pressure when the rubber is cold or warm?

[chuboy]

There is no 'best', most of us like it around 34-36 psi but as long as it is at least what it says in the book you are okay. Higher tyre pressure decreases fuel consumption, increases steering response, decreases ride comfort, increases susceptibility to punctures and blowouts. So it's a compromise.

But ALWAYS check and adjust tyre pressure when cold.

[lovesil]

I'm getting 10.xxL/100km (pure city driving)

[redseven]

I've seen high 6's and 7L/100km at a constant 120 km/h cruise on highways. The cruise control really helps to keep fuel consumption low.

In town, the auto box is hopeless... 9-10L/100km is what I usually get. What's the most efficient sweet spot for this engine? Wondering if it's better to use the paddle shifters to shift at 3000 rpm or lower.

[Fredoops]

^^^^^ it's a heavy ass sedan dragged along by a 2.4 liter, don't expect
Much

[08r3308]

There is no 'best', most of us like it around 34-36 psi but as long as it is at least what it says in the book you are okay. Higher tyre pressure decreases fuel consumption, increases steering response, decreases ride comfort, increases susceptibility to punctures and blowouts. So it's a compromise.

But ALWAYS check and adjust tyre pressure when cold.

Follow this and you will be ok

[pitiek]

I find my CU2 has a better fuel economy once I changed petrol from 98 Shell to 95 caltex..
And the paddle shift help a lot but only when you had enough caffeine to concentrate on the 0-15L/100km gauge and the spedo.. And the things coming at you from the windscreen...
I warn you, IT CAN BE DANGEROUS..!!

[redseven]

I find my CU2 has a better fuel economy once I changed petrol from 98 Shell to 95 caltex..
And the paddle shift help a lot but only when you had enough caffeine to concentrate on the 0-15L/100km gauge and the spedo.. And the things coming at you from the windscreen...
I warn you, IT CAN BE DANGEROUS..!!

Need to grow another pair of eyes and another brain too :) It's impossible to use the paddles, keep an eye on the fuel consumption gauge, and another eye on traffic. I find the manual shifters useful only when cruising on highways and tackling mountain roads. Rather than making life easier, it becomes yet another thing to concentrate on...

How does the Euro 2.4 compare to the Euro Accord 2.0, Mazda 6 2.0, Mazda 6 2.5 or any VAG 2.0 turbo? For real world fuel economy, not the crazy manufacturer figures.

[Fredoops]

VAG 1.8 (Skoda) and 2.0 (VW) turbo would have better consumption figures, purely because the torque is all down low smothers is no need to gun the car to get it moving.

[BigBen]

Replace your oxygen sensor at 100,000km this should help restore fuel economy - unless the oxygen sensor has been damaged when changing to a new exhaust system.

[ChaosMaster]

Anyone tried United Fuels Premium 100 Octane?

[akjdfnn]

my car average's 8.8l per 100k, on BP Ultimate. mix of town and highway, no mods.

[jbzonda]

Anyone tried United Fuels Premium 100 Octane?

I'd like to find out too, I doubt 2 octane will make much difference!

My car has been averaging about 7-8km/100km last few weeks and about 750km per tank. Consistently running shell v-power, 70:30 freeway (although freeway is the monash in peak hr, hardly highway driving!)

[Thor]

i use united's and its actually not to bad i get very similar results compared to shell 95 or something give or take a few k's... although my fuel consumption is stuffed i only get around 420-460 a tank lol

[3RotaRX]

I get the same as you Thor, although I use 98vortex. just driving around town 10.xL

[tinkz]

Currently i'm getting 11.6 liters per 100km which i think is very heavy for an Euro especially being quite slow and non performance orientated. I'm comparing this to my 05 wrx which is close to 200kw at the wheels and is super quick with lots of mods. Currently i get 12.5 Litres per 100km with the same kind of driving, back and forth to work. I fill both the WRX and Euro with 98 Octane petrol.

Just recently, the Euro is taking a bit longer than usual to start which i think might be battery related.

[MingZai]

FJAL;KFJKLSD;FJSAKLFSDFA;FSDFSAF I FREAKING GOT LIKE 350-400 L last tank.... Had to reset the ECU so bad lol

[Fredoops]

FJAL;KFJKLSD;FJSAKLFSDFA;FSDFSAF I FREAKING GOT LIKE 350-400 L last tank.... Had to reset the ECU so bad lol
You're meant to do that every time you install mods that affects combustion.....

[Thor]

mainly city driving for me its terrible! but i do need to reset the ecu sometime soon haha

[mrgu]

I use 98 Vortex and petrol comsumption is 11L/100km. I use Vortex purely because of the discount.

[roony]

Just made trip on the weekend to sydney. Return trip got 15.32 km/l (so thats around 6.5L/100km). Thats about 919 a full tank. Reached 833 yest without a fill and could have made it home without a fill but started to get nervous lol. CL9 6MT - BP ultimate.

[Chris-92]

was getting 600 -650km a tank with vpower switched to caltex and am now getting 550. looks like im going back to shell!

[white_ep3_civic]

I found V Power the best. Vortex burnt to quick and BP was too unpredictable.

[ChaosMaster]

Any one tried E10? Currently running either 98 or 100oct, but the difference in price is getting bigger. Nearly 20c per litre. Since I'm saving up for my mods, this maybe the best area to cut back. I mean it's like 10 bucks every refill.

[adis]

I found V Power the best. Vortex burnt to quick and BP was too unpredictable.

+1
I was very surprised as i used to do everything to avoid using SHELL after reading few negative comments.
Recently i tested all fuels and to my surprise, v power came out on top!

[HunterZero]

+1
I was very surprised as i used to do everything to avoid using SHELL after reading few negative comments.
Recently i tested all fuels and to my surprise, v power came out on top!

Interesting. I stopped using Shell a while back, used to use Optimax in my old Accord Gen 3. The V-power used to produce a lot more soot that blackens the tailpipes, BP Ultimate burns really clean.

- HZ

[Fredoops]

+1
I was very surprised as i used to do everything to avoid using SHELL after reading few negative comments.
Recently i tested all fuels and to my surprise, v power came out on top!

Pretty aure they changed their formula lately, they now also have a new "fuel economy" 95 octane (see? who says bitching and complaining don't work?). Iirc they added the same types of addictives ala vortex/BP ultimax.

I used them lately and they were better than the old Vpower. But I still prefer vortex/BP ultimax

[ChaosMaster]

E10 see's a slight loss of power from 98. Don't think it's much different to 95 though. Not in terms of power anyway. Will keep updated in regard to eco though.

[89superstage]

A bit off topic, but is anyone running Nitrogen in their tyres? What is its effect on fuel economy, if any?
thanks.

[Fredoops]

A bit off topic, but is anyone running Nitrogen in their tyres? What is its effect on fuel economy, if any?
thanks.

I am,
cant feel any difference

[roony]

is it supposed to effect the economy? All i heard about it was it doesnt leak out like air, thats it.

[Fredoops]

is it supposed to effect the economy? All i heard about it was it doesnt leak out like air, thats it.

it's more stable under temperature variations

EG: 35 psi is 35 psi no matter it's 20 degrees outside or 35 degrees outside. so to speak

[roony]

ah i see. thanks

[CU2 Euro 09]

I'm running nitrogen on the Michelin's at 36psi. Can't say I notice much difference to normal 70% nitrogen (normal compressed air). Drove to Toowoomba today at about 80km/h and averaged 6.4L/100 most of the way. I use BP98. Heavy as shit rain is reason for so slow. Still wouldn't touch that Shell shit.

Seriously who puts that crap in a Euro. Though to those that do, how's the pinging????

[Fredoops]

I'm running nitrogen on the Michelin's at 36psi. Can't say I notice much difference to normal 70% nitrogen (normal compressed air). Drove to Toowoomba today at about 80km/h and averaged 6.4L/100 most of the way. I use BP98. Heavy as shit rain is reason for so slow. Still wouldn't touch that Shell shit.

Seriously who puts that crap in a Euro. Though to those that do, how's the pinging????

yeah those CU2's who's ping'd with the Vpower pretty much turned off Shell for life lol

[CU2 Euro 09]

yeah those CU2's who's ping'd with the Vpower pretty much turned off Shell for life lol

Amen brother

[buddah51au]

I'm running nitrogen on the Michelin's at 36psi. Can't say I notice much difference to normal 70% nitrogen (normal compressed air). Drove to Toowoomba today at about 80km/h and averaged 6.4L/100 most of the way. I use BP98. Heavy as shit rain is reason for so slow. Still wouldn't touch that Shell shit.

Seriously who puts that crap in a Euro. Though to those that do, how's the pinging????

That sounds about right for a short trip like that given the conditions. If i work out my average to date on my MY12 Auto (discounting the first tank filled by the dealer) I come up with figures of 2508kms - 162.85 Lts = average 6.49L/100km. That is approx 80% highway & 20% local driving. Given that, it will change on my next fill. I have not filled up since 23rd Dec & only traveled 297km in that time. All driving is local & no trip longer than 7km non stop, so continual stop start driving on a cold engine with 40, 50 & 60 km speed limits which means top gear is not being used. I equate this to driving in the outer suburbs of any city & on this tank my trip computer is indicating 8.1L/100, so a true figure of closer to 8.5 would be more realistic.

I have found no real difference between using BP95 & Vortex98, so I will stay with BP95.

[Fredoops]

Well as bathroom reading.... I delved into te ACCC enquiry into pectoral prices back in 2008.

Here's some very interesting points...
1. We get majority of our crude oil from Vietnam, Malaysia and Indonesia.
2. Most (if not all) refineries and are shared with buy sell agreement (eg: Shell in NSW was refined by Caltex and vice versa)
3. Most of the import terminals are also joint operated/shared
4. Northern territory used only imported fuel presumbly from Singapore.
5. Caltex and BP are the major refiners within Australia (something like 60%)
6. We only import 15% of our refined petrol from overseas (85% of those imported were from Singapore.)

I dunno about you, but this whole shared capacity thing probably explains some quality inconsistancy we have.
And... Goodness there's a long price collusion opportunities there

[eurogo]

normally around 500-600kms per tank, only use shell v power. Ran it on BP ultimate and it was too uneven- some weeks great economy, other weeks ordinary and also occasionally ran like a dog haha. I often do trips from Canberra to Sydney and normally crack 300k at half tank mark on a good day haha. As i said normally good economy and every now and then some spirited driving also.

P.S.- How do you reset the computer? any side effects? cheers!.

[Thor]

recently got clutch replaced (burnt out old one), new gearbox fluid, injen CAI on shell 95 getting 600k a tank now still haven't reset ecu... previously was getting 450ish

[aroy7]

So I was a little absent minded and let my car run down to 5km showing on the trip computer, I naturally panicked and drove straight into the nearest petrol station I could find...it was United fuels.

Whilst there I decided to chuck in the best they had, their Premium 100 octane. The car had run on BP ultimate for the last 25,000 km and nothing else and I had been averaging low 9s for my L/100km based on my trip computer resetting after every fill up on my CL9.

After 1 tank my thoughts: the fuel is rubbish for economy, doing the same run that I always do, to and from work, my consumption would not drop below 11L/100 km over the next 400km! This was with granny driving and no air con which normally got me around 9L/100km as I said.
Having said that, I did notice the car idled a bit better and sounded quieter outside when the engine was ticking over.

Any thoughts? I read up and saw that it was a 10% ethanol blend in all their fuels....maybe that's the reason for the poor economy?

[Fredoops]

So I was a little absent minded and let my car run down to 5km showing on the trip computer, I naturally panicked and drove straight into the nearest petrol station I could find...it was United fuels.

Whilst there I decided to chuck in the best they had, their Premium 100 octane. The car had run on BP ultimate for the last 25,000 km and nothing else and I had been averaging low 9s for my L/100km based on my trip computer resetting after every fill up on my CL9.

After 1 tank my thoughts: the fuel is rubbish for economy, doing the same run that I always do, to and from work, my consumption would not drop below 11L/100 km over the next 400km! This was with granny driving and no air con which normally got me around 9L/100km as I said.
Having said that, I did notice the car idled a bit better and sounded quieter outside when the engine was ticking over.

Any thoughts? I read up and saw that it was a 10% ethanol blend in all their fuels....maybe that's the reason for the poor economy?

Correct.
Also. BP ultimate/Caltex Vortex has got anti-friction agent and cleaning agents added... that'll benefit the economy as well.

My car likes Caltex Vortex and BP ultimate, but hates Vpower.

[ChaosMaster]

E10 isn't that bad. I reckon I lost 50km per tank (till light, not till empty). Considering the difference between 95 and E10 is around 13c per litre it's not that bad.

[pitiek]

Any CU2 with caltex 95 user in QLD noticed an increase in fuel consumption in the past two weeks?
I have been recording my fuel consumption since I drove out from the dealer and it has been stable at 8.6L/100Km with similar driving condition then about two weeks ago, I'm only getting 9.1L/100Km.
Does the colder mornings play part in this or the Caltex 95 has a "new" formula?

[roony]

Does the colder mornings play part in this or the Caltex 95 has a "new" formula?

well density should be higher in cold, so should be better filling in the cold. Then again its a minute difference anyways. So that shouldnt play a part in making ur consumption worse

[pitiek]

Petrol prices in Brissie went down to about 135 cents/L on Friday and went up back to 156 cents/L yesterday.. WTF..!!!

[3RotaRX]

Petrol prices in Brissie went down to about 135 cents/L on Friday and went up back to 156 cents/L yesterday.. WTF..!!!

Is that 91octane or 98 cos if it is 98 thats damn cheap.

[azn_k3nt]

One of the girl that i know, filled up her sti at 170.9 bp ultimate =/ gg

Time to use the euro less and get my bicycle out =D

[Neilz]

One of the girl that i know, filled up her sti at 170.9 bp ultimate =/ gg

Time to use the euro less and get my bicycle out =D

yeah i did this.. didn't work for me LOL most i paid was 172.9 for ultimate and thinking ill stick to 95 from now on

[azn_k3nt]

I was thinking if i should downgrade or what? :/

God we really need to get rid of this petrol tax bullocks...i actually shouldve gotten a hybrid car

[Fredoops]

Petrol prices in Brissie went down to about 135 cents/L on Friday and went up back to 156 cents/L yesterday.. WTF..!!!

You know the petrol refiners are soo joined at the hip in the country they can pretty much charge whatever the hell they want.

[ROBERT]

CL9 auto
I understand that the auto box has a 'lock up' mode in top gear when cruising, also the top gear ratio is higher than in the manual meaning lower revs for the same speed. So given almost all of my driving is on highways (I live in the country) and the car is in top gear 98% of the time shouldn't I get better fuel consumption than a manual car?

[redseven]

Dunno about the CL9 but the auto CU2 has excellent fuel consumption if you're cruising on the highway at 110-120 km/h. I usually get around 7 liters/100 km if I don't abuse the VTEC too much ;)

I think Honda designed the manual for better performance and the auto for economy. I'd give a kidney to get that sweet manual instead of this paddle-shift nonsense. The damn slushbox has weird ratios for the lower gears so it always feels either too low or too high... in-town driving just murders the fuel economy but it's surprisingly good on the highways.

Nice comparison between gear ratios of all the different TSX boxes (http://www.acura.com/DriveTrain.aspx?model=TSX&modelYear=2012) but I sure as hell don't know what they mean... would a smaller final drive ratio mean lower RPM for the same speed?

[tron07]

lot of city driving, the manual will return better fuel economy.

Lot of highway driving, the auto will return better fuel economy due to better final drive, at 110kmh, the RPM will be lower on the auto.

[tron07]

my best FC... 5.1l/100km.... Pump petrol at Sutton Forrest Shell, reset and drove off, did it for around 90km distance doing 110km/h on cruise control on M5. photo taken in the 70km plus mark. Was trying to see if it drop to 5.0l/100km but hit traffic jam and slow to a crawl and FC went back up to 6.0l/100km before going smooth again.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y258/tron07/OZHonda/DSC00007.jpg

Try beating my record

[chuboy]

Try resetting it while you're going down a long hill. For a few beautiful moments your consumption will read 0.0 L/100km :)

[5tH SiN]

Best i've had was on BP Ultimate, did 650~KM, auto CL9 (8.8L/100KM)

My last fill up was terrible. I got about 520KM~ (11.8L/100KM). When i came to fill up the other day, i noticed that my L/100KM was slowly decreasing while i was on the highway (normally it just jumps from like 24L/100KM to 17L/100KM etc until it eventually hits the 8L/100KM range. It went down to about 11.5 and just started coming down by 0.01. Does anyone know why it'd do that??

[chuboy]

The trip computer polls every 100m or so and spits out a cumulative average fuel consumption for the whole trip up until that point. So right after you reset after filling up at the servo you are doing a lot of driving in 1st gear so average consumption for the distance you have driven since you reset is quite high... once you are on the highway your consumption is low and so you notice the average consumption decreases gradually until it eventually approaches your instantaneous consumption. Even though you use lots of fuel when in 1st gear, the distance covered is small so its overall effect on the average consumption is outweighed by the large distances and low consumption of highway driving. Of course if you never do highway driving and your sole use of the car is stop-start in 1st or 2nd gear, then the fuel consumption figure will not decrease as you have observed.

Also, the longer you have gone without resetting your trip meter, the harder it is to make the fuel consumption average change (since it is taking the average of all the fuel consumption figures since you last reset which may have been many thousands of kms ago).

It's all to do with the mathematics of taking an average ;) I reset my Trip A about 20000 kms ago, the fuel consumption is a solid 8.5 L/100km which pretty much never goes up or down. Then I use Trip B to see my fuel consumption per tank.

[aroy7]

The trip computer polls every 100m or so and spits out a cumulative average fuel consumption for the whole trip up until that point. So right after you reset after filling up at the servo you are doing a lot of driving in 1st gear so average consumption for the distance you have driven since you reset is quite high... once you are on the highway your consumption is low and so you notice the average consumption decreases gradually until it eventually approaches your instantaneous consumption. Even though you use lots of fuel when in 1st gear, the distance covered is small so its overall effect on the average consumption is outweighed by the large distances and low consumption of highway driving. Of course if you never do highway driving and your sole use of the car is stop-start in 1st or 2nd gear, then the fuel consumption figure will not decrease as you have observed.

Also, the longer you have gone without resetting your trip meter, the harder it is to make the fuel consumption average change (since it is taking the average of all the fuel consumption figures since you last reset which may have been many thousands of kms ago).

It's all to do with the mathematics of taking an average ;) I reset my Trip A about 20000 kms ago, the fuel consumption is a solid 8.5 L/100km which pretty much never goes up or down. Then I use Trip B to see my fuel consumption per tank.

Same here, the auto reset on fill-up function for the trip computer is genius!

[Euro_Dave]

I filled up my CU2 for the first time since getting it almost 2 weeks ago.

It took 57L to fill the tank and the Trip was on 635km. 10 km's into the "Low fuel" warning...(which I work out to be an ave of 8.9L/100)...however the onboard reading from the Trip computer was telling me I was getting 8.2L/100.

I am wondering if the computer only calculates the L/100 when the car is moving.
I have noticed that when the OSD is set to show real-time mileage, under acceleration it shoots right up beyond 15, on the FWY it seems to sit between 4-6 but when you come to a stop at the lights it falls to 0.

Obviously the car is still using petrol when idling (even though the computer is seeing 0L/100), so I am wondering if this may account for the difference in displayed mileage vs "actual" mileage derived from Litres required to refill the tank and kilometres travelled.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this, or able to explain why there is such a difference?

I thought 8.2L/100 was quite good until I did the maths after filling up and realised 8.9L/100 was still quite reasonable, but a far cry from the figure the computer was telling me. This is with approx 65% FWY, 35% urban/CBD driving - with only a couple of brief burts into VTEC territory (just to open her up and see how she went) - love that sound :)

I'm also not sure just how full the tank was when I picked up the car (or what fuel they put in it), so I am interested to see roughly how far the next tank of petrol lasts for (I decided to try my local/usual Vortex 95 for a few tanks and then Vortex 98 to see the difference - if any).

Lovin' the Euro!

Dave

[noel]

Hi, All

My base model Euro (don't t know the model designation, but it's a MY2013) now with 1500 k's on the clock, is doing 15l/100K's mainly around town driving - and, in case you're wondering - I'm no geriatric racer.
On the local freeway it surprised with 6.5. The motor doesn't appear to be running rich and both tailpipes are showing no sign of sooting.

The car generally is loosening-up nicely.

Any idea when I can expect fuel mileage to improve.

BTW Following one test that returned 10.7l/100, the Distance to Empty read-out was 720 kilometres - from a full 65 litre tank. Perhaps it's more intuitive than we give it credit for?

CHEERS
NOEL

[Jasemas]

Is it an auto?
Or manual?

How'd you go with breaking in the engine?
And what RON fuel do you use?

How do you calculate fuel usage? By the trip meter
Or fill up and divide by kms travelled?

City driving ALWAYS uses more petrol

[noel]

Hi, Jasemas

My Euro is an auto, which was driven normally during break-in, giving it a few extra revs in short bursts occasionally on the freeway.

I fill from halfway, alternating 95 and 98 RON.

Fuel consumption is calculated by the trip meters, one of which hasn't been reset since new.

If the motor is started, I always run it until fully warm on the road.

Recent cars have all been heavier on petrol around town; matter of fact, my Honda Civic '09 model, often came in at 12/13l/100k's around town, and 6 or so on a run. The Euro with 1000 k's on the clock, used 6.5 l/100 over 150 k's mostly on a freeway.

Time and kilometres will tell I guess.

CHEERS
NOEL

[Jasemas]

Reset the trip meter as its giving you an average over 1500kms, not the recent 200kms or so travelled
So it's going to be inaccurate
And yes the car is still in its break in period

[Euro_Dave]

Hey Jasemas,
Do you have any thoughts on why my "displayed vs actual" mileage is so different (8.2 displayed vs 8.9 L/100 actual) - as posted above?

And have you or others here found a similar variance?

I suspect it's a bit like your speedo showing you're doing 100 km/h when in reality you're only doing 96 km/h or so...???

Dave

[Jasemas]

I have no idea
I don't own a cl9/cu2 - butt will do in the future and have read ALOT into them
I'd suggest doing a manual recording of fuel used - write down how many litres put in and how many km's since last filled up
Rather than trust the computer

[Euro_Dave]

Yes indeed.
I have started keeping a log of km's travelled per tank, L required to refill tank (and which RON I have used) along with displayed mileage vs actual mileage - so after several tanks I hope to see a pattern.

Cheers,
Dave

[noel]

Reset the trip meter as its giving you an average over 1500kms, not the recent 200kms or so travelled
So it's going to be inaccurate
And yes the car is still in its break in period

Sorry, I should have mentioned that Trip A has not been reset from new, but B is reset at each fill-up.

Good to read that car is still in its break in period; it seems to be running even better each day.

CHEERS
NOEL

[Fredoops]

Btw don't be too gentle during the break-in period either, it's known to cause issues.

[noel]

Btw don't be too gentle during the break-in period either, it's known to cause issues.

Ta, Fredoops, I've heard that. I once asked a salesman about 'running-in' our new Civic and he commented that I could 'drive it like buggery, up to the Queensland border' (from Newcastle) and could come back 'with an extremely good car, at least with a bloody good car'. I think he was saying to run it in hard. As. It turned out , I drove it normally -- and it took 40,000 k's before it really performed at its best. Virtually the same with the next Civic (2009 LE). I'll start to give the Euro more work to do, I reckon.

It's now done 1500 k's and I still believe the car doesn't steer at low speeds, like it should. The brakes, when new, were a bit 'nothingness' , but have improved nicely.

CHEERS
NOEL

[philipminge]

i have a 2006 euro Luxury and i get 550+ on every tank. This is suburban driving.
Only every use BP Ultimate 98.
only Mods that would effect fuel consumption are K&N short ram intake
toda headers
cat back exhaust
18inch riims. Pressure 40 front 38 rear

i have platinum plugs also and clean my air filter every 5,000kms.

i drove to narooma once from melbourne and had a passenger and a fully loaded car and it weighed a ton and i got there and drove around for 4 days on 1 tank. got 849kms from the tank.

i also found that using caltex fuel i get 50kms less - consistently.

i recommend going to BP ultimate 98 for a few tanks, change your plugs (platinum), and clean or replace air filter or get a high flow k&n filter or equivalent and reset your tacho and try again. can almost promise better fuel econ!

[philipminge]

Ta, Fredoops, I've heard that. I once asked a salesman about 'running-in' our new Civic and he commented that I could 'drive it like buggery, up to the Queensland border' (from Newcastle) and could come back 'with an extremely good car, at least with a bloody good car'. I think he was saying to run it in hard. As. It turned out , I drove it normally -- and it took 40,000 k's before it really performed at its best. Virtually the same with the next Civic (2009 LE). I'll start to give the Euro more work to do, I reckon.

It's now done 1500 k's and I still believe the car doesn't steer at low speeds, like it should. The brakes, when new, were a bit 'nothingness' , but have improved nicely.

CHEERS
NOEL

i agree also... dont she shy to pull her hair a bit... you will be better off in the long run!

[Euro_Dave]

Well, it looks like I can see a trend appearing here.
Last time I filled the tank it took 57L to fill after driving 635km's (an 8.9L/100, with 8.2L/100 being displayed) A difference of 0.7L/100

This evening I refilled the tank again after just passing the "low fuel warning" stage.
It took 59L to refill after driving for 715km's (which is 8.2L/100 and the display was showing 7.5L/100)...again a difference of 0.7L/100

I'm pretty happy with this mileage (which was achieved running on Vortex 95) and about 65% FWY/35% CBD/urban driving.
I'd love to see what I could get if driving 80-90% FWY.

So it seems that the display is showing well short of the "actual" mileage figure, but I will continue to monitor the difference over several tanks of petrol to see if this 0.7L/100 difference remains consistent....as I suspect that the ECU isn't taking into account fuel being used when stopped/at idle....and again if I could do a decent HWY drive where there were minimal stops and constant speed it would be interesting to see if this difference dropped significantly.

Oh, and I shouldn't forget to mention just how nice it is to drive the Euro.
I actually look forward to driving to and from work each day. I am so happy with the car, it is simply fantastic :)

Dave

[monkeyspank]

I made it back from QLD in one tank. Over 800km on a full tank of 98 RON.
Stock 2004 Accord Euro manual. 3 passengers and a full load in the boot.

[Euro_Dave]

Well, it looks like I can see a trend appearing here.
Last time I filled the tank it took 57L to fill after driving 635km's (an 8.9L/100, with 8.2L/100 being displayed) A difference of 0.7L/100

This evening I refilled the tank again after just passing the "low fuel warning" stage.
It took 59L to refill after driving for 715km's (which is 8.2L/100 and the display was showing 7.5L/100)...again a difference of 0.7L/100

I'm pretty happy with this mileage (which was achieved running on Vortex 95) and about 65% FWY/35% CBD/urban driving.
I'd love to see what I could get if driving 80-90% FWY.

So it seems that the display is showing well short of the "actual" mileage figure, but I will continue to monitor the difference over several tanks of petrol to see if this 0.7L/100 difference remains consistent....as I suspect that the ECU isn't taking into account fuel being used when stopped/at idle....and again if I could do a decent HWY drive where there were minimal stops and constant speed it would be interesting to see if this difference dropped significantly.

Oh, and I shouldn't forget to mention just how nice it is to drive the Euro.
I actually look forward to driving to and from work each day. I am so happy with the car, it is simply fantastic :)

Dave

Filled the car again this evening.
59L to fill the car after a distance of 726km's (8.1L/100 actual).
OSD showed mileage of 7.7L/100 (which is only a 0.4L/100 difference.....much different to the 0.7L/100 I have noticed on the previous two tanks).
Not sure how it achieved a better actual mileage from the previous tank yet the OSD showed a higher mileage figure (7.5 for 715km's vs 7.8 for 726km's - both needed 59km's to refill)

Quite impressed with the mileage thus far. Seems to be ahead of the quoted 8.5L/100 average for the Lux Auto.
Total of 2076 km's using 175L of Vortex 95 petrol (8.1L/100 actual ave), with the OSD displaying 7.8L/100.

Another tank or two of 95 and I'll move onto 98 to see if there is any/much difference.

Dave

[Jasemas]

You will see a much better result of using 98 as the car's ecu will adapt to the petrol used
And 98 is always better on luxury cars like these
it will also stop the notorious 'pinging' the euro had