What oil are u using for your integra

[tekung89]

tried searchin, found nothing. what engine are u guys using for ur integras
engine: ??
oil brand and W: ???
kms: ??
likes and dislikes: ??

was reading and its recommended that u use 10/40 and the best oil would be 5/40

[string]

Whatever sells itself to me the best on the day in 10w30 synthetic.

I change it often and don't drive much. I've never had a "problem" with an oil.

[90LAN]

10-30 oem honda
05-30 castrol edge
10-30 motul 300v

all good comes down to price

its not what u use its how regular u change your oil

[G-Stick]

05-30 castrol edge FTW

[EGB18CT]

elf turbolite i think it is (blue bottle) got a nice smell to it too shits all over castrol which i used previously.

going to try motul 300v next but motor will be out so mite wack it in the jazz

[[CRA23]]

motul 300v 10w40

[VTECACCORD]

Amsoil

[Chi]

Castrol Edge Sport 5-30

[chargeR]

Red Line 10-30 or 10-40 depending on the season.

[Kiki]

B18c using Motul 8100 5w40

otherwise the FEO or Mobil 1 i think are ok, though i found Motul to my liking the best

[chilli]

shell helix
ferrari ftw

lol

[we tec]

Mobil 1 5w-50

[chargeR]

Red Line 10-30 or 10-40 depending on the season.

Also to help the thread starter here is a little more information:

engine: K20A2
Positives: My motor has not blown yet in around 15 track events in all weather with no oil cooler, and it shows no signs of slowing down. I change my oil every 2 track days or 5000km whichever comes first.

Negatives: Red line is quite expensive.

[VTECMACHINE]

Edge 5-30 or Royal Purple 5-30 or 10-40 depending on the season.

[mrwillz]

B18c using Motul 8100 5w40

otherwise the FEO or Mobil 1 i think are ok, though i found Motul to my liking the best

i've used this my last 2 service
cant ccomplain

[neut]

dc2r 145,000kms 10-40W Castrol Magnetec I change my oil when i see its crossing over to a black colour, just changed mine yesterdai =]

[tekung89]

thats a good idea, post up KM's too .

[absolutR]

shell helix
ferrari ftw

lol

Ferrari does not use shell in their workshops. they use pure bred italian oil - AGIP. shell just pays for the picture on the f1 car

agip is the best, also, shell is shit coz its filtered through water in the proccessing which makes it burn quicker. very bad!

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n166/patluvsyou/agip5w40.jpg

[teaseR]

B18c using Motul 8100 5w40

otherwise the FEO or Mobil 1 i think are ok, though i found Motul to my liking the best

hands up for me... very smooth reving compare to OEM... though it seems like theres a resistant in reving the thing... seems like the 5-40 is alittle thick.

[slidetaker]

Ferrari does not use shell in their workshops. they use pure bred italian oil - AGIP. shell just pays for the picture on the f1 car


I think Shell does a little bit more than paying for the stickers on the F1 car

http://www.shell.com/home/content/ferrari-en/formula_one_2008/2008_content_articles/2008_shell_in_formula_one.html


Anyone knows the different between Honda FEO 10W30 and Honda Premium engine oil 5W40? Other than the SJ and SL rating..

[aaronng]

Anyone knows the different between Honda FEO 10W30 and Honda Premium engine oil 5W40? Other than the SJ and SL rating..
I can see straight away from your post that the Honda Premium 5w-40 is thicker than the FEO 10w-30 at operating temperature.

[aaronng]

also, shell is shit coz its filtered through water in the proccessing which makes it burn quicker. very bad!

That is a very daring statement to make. It doesn't burn quicker. Your PCV valve is worn.

[Fuzz21]

dc5r Motul 8100 5w40
awesome

[absolutR]

Im not saying that it burns up in front of you, but compared to better oils it does in fact burn quicker.

[QUOTE=slidetaker;1794411]I think Shell does a little bit more than paying for the stickers on the F1 car

http://www.shell.com/home/content/ferrari-en/formula_one_2008/2008_content_articles/2008_shell_in_formula_one.htmlQUOTE]


all advertising.

[aaronng]

Im not saying that it burns up in front of you, but compared to better oils it does in fact burn quicker.


I know that. I am saying that for oils of the correct viscosity for your engine, the oil consumption is more dependent on your PCV valve and ring/bore conditions. Which oils have you PERSONALLY used that burns slower than Shell? Also WHICH shell oil are you referring to? Shell ECO10? Shell Helix? Shell Helix Plus? Shell Helix Ultra?

[slidetaker]

I can see straight away from your post that the Honda Premium 5w-40 is thicker than the FEO 10w-30 at operating temperature.

Yes.....sorry, I should have put more details in the question.

My main question is why Honda would choose a 5W40 grade as premium? Does Honda imply that 10W30 is for Fuel efficient only, while 5W40 is the one that will give you better protection especially in severe conditions. Also, which Honda will be suitable for this 5W40? For S2000, but not Jazz?

Does anyone else know that there is a Honda Premium engine oil?? I just saw in recently in Eastern Honda Services in Victoria..

[aaronng]

Yes.....sorry, I should have put more details in the question.

My main question is why Honda would choose a 5W40 grade as premium? Does Honda imply that 10W30 is for Fuel efficient only, while 5W40 is the one that will give you better protection especially in severe conditions. Also, which Honda will be suitable for this 5W40? For S2000, but not Jazz?

Does anyone else know that there is a Honda Premium engine oil?? I just saw in recently in Eastern Honda Services in Victoria..

The current Honda engines (Jazz, Civic, Accord, Accord Euro, CRV, Odyssey, S2000, Legend) can use 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40. Even 15w-40 and 0w-20 might be usable. Generaly for the SAME TYPE OF OIL, the thicker the oil, the better the protection (as long as you stay within the appropriate range), while the thinner oils give better fuel economy.

[slidetaker]

The current Honda engines (Jazz, Civic, Accord, Accord Euro, CRV, Odyssey, S2000, Legend) can use 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40. Even 15w-40 and 0w-20 might be usable. Generaly for the SAME TYPE OF OIL, the thicker the oil, the better the protection (as long as you stay within the appropriate range), while the thinner oils give better fuel economy.

But I have always thought that 10W30 will have around 60cSt at 40C that will provide a faster flow around the engine for first crank start-up while 5W40 will have around 70cSt at 40C. Most wears do occur at start-up, wouldn't 10W30 flows better in the first few critical mins.

[iinjektd]

Castrol Magnatec
10-40

[Chi]

You guys think Castrol Edge Sport 0w-40 is ok for track use?

[chargeR]

You guys think Castrol Edge Sport 0w-40 is ok for track use?

I can tell you that your motor probably wont blow straight away :p. Do a used oil analysis and tell us the results.

[Chi]

I can tell you that your motor probably wont blow straight away :p. Do a used oil analysis and tell us the results.


OK GUY.


I hope ur engine blows so you're stuck in Syd with your bf !!!!!!

[aaronng]

You guys think Castrol Edge Sport 0w-40 is ok for track use?

LOL, you joking or is this a real question?

BTW, I used it and the engine is not blown yet. I'm using the cheaper 5w-30 this time, so make sure you install your towhook so that you can tow my car back to Sydney. I'll bring the rope.

[chargeR]

You guys think Castrol Edge Sport 0w-40 is ok for track use?

Seriously though why are you departing so far from the honda recommended oil viscosities? If you look in your manual Honda only recommends 0W or 5W oils for very low start temperatures. Just get 10-30 Red Line. Track tested in 2 different states at a variety of temperatures on a ghetto old high km DC5.

[aaronng]

Seriously though why are you departing so far from the honda recommended oil viscosities? If you look in your manual Honda only recommends 0W or 5W oils for very low start temperatures. Just get 10-30 Red Line. Track tested in 2 different states at a variety of temperatures on a ghetto old high km DC5.

Honda recommended oil viscosities are 0w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40 and maybe 15w-40. Says so in the manual.

[Chi]

Seriously though why are you departing so far from the honda recommended oil viscosities? If you look in your manual Honda only recommends 0W or 5W oils for very low start temperatures. Just get 10-30 Red Line. Track tested in 2 different states at a variety of temperatures on a ghetto old high km DC5.

A lot of japanese Honda tuner shops use 0w-40 for track.

I've used mainly 5-30 and 10-40 and wondering if it is any beneficial for the 0w-40.

Just a question, doesn't mean I'm 100% using it.

I know J's racing use 0w-20 for their track cars. which is a bit odd.

[chargeR]

Honda recommended oil viscosities are 0w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40 and maybe 15w-40. Says so in the manual.

Indeed they are, but for the temperature range we are generally going to experience in south east Australia 10W-30 and 10W-40 are recommended. The DC5R manual suggests that no thinner oil than 5W-30 be used and that is for temperatures down to less than -20 Celsius. I see no mention of 0W-30 or 0W-20 in the DC5R manual :confused:.


A lot of Japanese Honda tuner shops use 0w-40 for track.

I've used mainly 5-30 and 10-40 and wondering if it is any beneficial for the 0w-40.

Just a question, doesn't mean I'm 100% using it.

I know J's racing use 0w-20 for their track cars. which is a bit odd.

J's possibly build their motors with different clearances and ideas to stock motors or they run them at different temperatures. I have no idea and I am certainly not going to disagree.

Honestly very few people, myself included, choose their oil using any logic or evidence. I would not honestly recommend Red Line to anyone else, I would only say that I have been to many track days on the oil in a variety of temperatures and my car still runs well.

I am still interested in why you want a lower viscosity (eg 0W or 5W) at low temperatures?

[aaronng]

0w and 5w will only make a difference if you live in the mountains during the winter snow season. Even so, it only makes a difference when you first start your engine in the morning. After the engine has warmed up, it makes almost no difference compared to a 10w. The 2nd number matters after that.

[absolutR]

I know that. I am saying that for oils of the correct viscosity for your engine, the oil consumption is more dependent on your PCV valve and ring/bore conditions. Which oils have you PERSONALLY used that burns slower than Shell? Also WHICH shell oil are you referring to? Shell ECO10? Shell Helix? Shell Helix Plus? Shell Helix Ultra?

shell helix ultra and shell helix extra.


the two full synthetic oils i use is either agip 0w-30 or the same in motul, which both last longer, and my pcv valve is fairly new.. atm i'm using 5w-40 motul purely coz i ran out of my own little stash of agip. but both motul and agip in the same ratings as what shell i have used will alwasy last longer, and its a shared experience with alot of my mates, we're very picky about what goes into our sumps

[Mitsubishi]

Someone please explain why my mechanic would pour/recommend me 10w70 - Penrite Sin - Full Syn?

I know it's a thicker oil, but why?

[Spoon SiRG]

ELF semi 10w-40

[deezsta87]

hey guys i'm lost lol. i have a 97 integra gsi with 177,xxx km on it. what oil would u guys recommend? i dont take it to track or anything, i just prefer fuel efficiency. sorry to hijack the thread :S

[Sp00ny]

Fuchs GTO Synthetic 10w30 w/ K&N Oil Filter

[Sp00ny]

hey guys i'm lost lol. i have a 97 integra gsi with 177,xxx km on it. what oil would u guys recommend? i dont take it to track or anything, i just prefer fuel efficiency. sorry to hijack the thread :S

OEM Honda FEO Mineral Oil 10w30


Someone please explain why my mechanic would pour/recommend me 10w70 - Penrite Sin - Full Syn?

I know it's a thicker oil, but why?

As they make more money from it most likely. If he had any clue he would realise that an oil with a weight of 70 @ operating temperature would ruin the internals and oil pump. When you think about it...thats almost the weight of the average transmission oil.

EDIT: FYI....Penrite Oils are absolute GARBAGE in my opinion...i would recommend to stay away from them particulary their transmission oils.

Regards,
Andrew

[aaronng]

shell helix ultra and shell helix extra.


the two full synthetic oils i use is either agip 0w-30 or the same in motul, which both last longer, and my pcv valve is fairly new.. atm i'm using 5w-40 motul purely coz i ran out of my own little stash of agip. but both motul and agip in the same ratings as what shell i have used will alwasy last longer, and its a shared experience with alot of my mates, we're very picky about what goes into our sumps

That is odd, wonder why. To burn, it has to get into the combustion chamber. When inside the combustion chamber, all oils will burn as the combustion temperature is above the oil's ignition point.

[aaronng]

As they make more money from it most likely. If he had any clue he would realise that an oil with a weight of 70 @ operating temperature would ruin the internals and oil pump. When you think about it...thats almost the weight of the average transmission oil.

Regards,
Andrew
Even thicker than transmission oil! Honda MTF is 75w80 which is equivalent to a 10w-30 oil. At 70@100 C, that would be closer to 140 weight gear oil!

[slidetaker]

That is odd, wonder why. To burn, it has to get into the combustion chamber. When inside the combustion chamber, all oils will burn as the combustion temperature is above the oil's ignition point.

Different quality and quantity in PAO/Easter proportion can affect seals differently, shrink, swelling. That will affect the amount of oil getting to areas that they shouldn't. No further info in Motul and Agip oils to follow up as to what's different from Shell oil.



I am still interested in why you want a lower viscosity (eg 0W or 5W) at low temperatures?

0W is often mentioned because of the amount of PAO/Easter needed to use as base stock to achieve this viscosity. 0W40 will have a good proportion of PAO to handle track conditions while a reasonable number of HTHS to protection the bearings. If a track car using 0W20 on track, I will be saying they are after ultimate horsepower while don't mind rebuilding every second session. Having said that, there are small can additives they might use for extra protection according to their applications.

[her0]

So i just recently got a DC5R and have been trying to research which oil to use, i use my dc5 as a commuter and bit of windy roads driving, with a bit of thrashing here and there.

Reading this thread, i have no idea what all these oil ratings mean?

anyone mind helping a fella help?

Sorry for thread revival.

cheers.

[aaronng]

So i just recently got a DC5R and have been trying to research which oil to use, i use my dc5 as a commuter and bit of windy roads driving, with a bit of thrashing here and there.

Reading this thread, i have no idea what all these oil ratings mean?

anyone mind helping a fella help?

Sorry for thread revival.

cheers.
Daily commuter, Honda FEO.

[l3vnd1]

Castrol edge 5w - 30w - Fine for winter season.

Might go to a 40w for summer.

I think more importantly though is how often you change your oil.

Every 5000K's I do.

[her0]

Castrol edge 5w - 30w - Fine for winter season.

Might go to a 40w for summer.

I think more importantly though is how often you change your oil.

Every 5000K's I do.

yup, previous owner changed it every 5000kms, i don't plan to change that.

so i guess i'd go the castrol 5w-30w for now?

[2002 TeGgY]

mobil1 0w-40w...

[Fuzz21]

the ratings are to show the thickness of the oil. hondas like using a thinner oil then most other cars. and also the temp the oils are recomended for. your user manual should say the oem oils wouldnt do you wrong./
but if u want something a little better. id say a fully synthetic oil. i use motul 8100 5w40. i rate it and so would many others. its up 2 your pocket i suppose

[Sp00ny]

Now using...

Royal Purple 5w30 w/ K&N Oil Filter

Pros:
- Made engine noticably quieter and smoother...
- Seems to of improved responsiveness but other variables could of effected that.
- Extended Drain Periods
- It's actually purple... :cool: lol

*Seems much better than Motul 300V* When I used motul 300V same weight...it made the engine very chattery, noisy and rough...flushed the oil straight away and moved to fuchs synthetic until I decided to go with Royal Purple xD

Cons:
- Expensive (Approx $85/5L)

[kikxz]

hey guys ive got a b18b and im currently using penrite HPR 15 which is SAE 15W-60
thats recommended for SAE 15W-40 or 15W-50 .But it is way to thick. just a Question on which other brand of oil i should use that is available at autobarn or supercheap etc because there isnt a honda dealer around my area any tips will be great.

Magnatec
Shell
Mobil
castrol Edge
Penrite again?
Cheers

[Sp00ny]

hey guys ive got a b18b and im currently using penrite HPR 15 which is SAE 15W-60
thats recommended for SAE 15W-40 or 15W-50 .But it is way to thick. just a Question on which other brand of oil i should use that is available at autobarn or supercheap etc because there isnt a honda dealer around my area any tips will be great.

Magnatec
Shell
Mobil
castrol Edge
Penrite again?
Cheers

Scrap the Penrite...Although this may sound bias I have no major issues with any other oil but Penrite... and scrap that viscosity ;)

I would use a 10w30 or 10w40 depending how many k's your car has done preferable in Mobil/Motul or OEM. If you actually research it you will find that Australian OEM oil is refined by Caltex...so anything along those lines will do. I personally would go for a trip to a honda dealer and purchase a few bottles of OEM...you cant go wrong with oem and at $32 for 5 Litres...the price is good too.

[kikxz]

ok spoony thanks for the info looks like oem is the way to go cheers mate

[minircc]

hey.. there's quite a few ppl using Castrol Edge Sport 5-30. so am i.

[F.O.B Squad]

Any advice on what oil to use for a B18c having done just over 200K's??

[chargeR]

Any advice on what oil to use for a B18c having done just over 200K's??

Honda FEO. If you are not happy with oil consumption with FEO go up to a 10W-40 semi-synthetic and see if it improves.

[ekvtir90]

I just recently got a honda integra vtir 99. And its coming to a point that I need to change the oil I want to change it at 113,000 km. I want a bit of performance and fuel economy put together what oil is best? maybe something in between? Not to sure about the thickness of the oils.

[VTECMACHINE]

I just recently got a honda integra vtir 99. And its coming to a point that I need to change the oil I want to change it at 113,000 km. I want a bit of performance and fuel economy put together what oil is best? maybe something in between? Not to sure about the thickness of the oils.

If you want cheap mineral oil then, Honda FEO 10W-30, orrrrrr... for Synthetic, Castrol Edge 5W-30 or 0W-40. Probs the best cheaper synthetic oil. ELF makes a good 5W-30 too.

[1900-hustler]

im using castrol edge 5w-30 atm
i rarely even drive the thing these days
will probably jus go back to honda feo in 5 months (since i probably not even make 5000kms) LOL

[Tegzieboi_BAR]

i gave this motul racing oil a go coz i got recommended n was waaay better than honda n castrol edge imo but since its $100 a pop plus $30 for engine flush (reccomended) dnt think i'll b usin it every time i do an oil change... bloody great oil tho, noticed the difference immedialtely, even on idle, engine a lot quiter n smoother.

[aaronng]

i gave this motul racing oil a go coz i got recommended n was waaay better than honda n castrol edge imo but since its $100 a pop plus $30 for engine flush (reccomended) dnt think i'll b usin it every time i do an oil change... bloody great oil tho, noticed the difference immedialtely, even on idle, engine a lot quiter n smoother.

If you had tried Motul's $65 8100 5w-40 engine oil without an engine flush, you would have noticed the smoothness immediately as well. :)

[VTECMACHINE]

Mr Spoon says that engine flush stuff is a no no. Arronng might want to elaborate. I would like to know your views on this, Arron?

[aaronng]

Mr Spoon says that engine flush stuff is a no no. Arronng might want to elaborate. I would like to know your views on this, Arron?

I hate engine flush. Engine flush is basically thin oil the consistency of diesel which you then run your engine on for a few minutes. I have a policy of nothing thinner than 0w-30 in my engine, so if anyone approaches my car with an engine flush, I'll use it to give them a good bowel cleansing.

Even if you had good luck that there were no carbon debris that jammed the gap between the bearing journals (like what Mr. Ichishima (Spoon) said could happen), you would still have accelerated wear on the journals in that few minutes of running on super thin oil.

[Sp00ny]

I hate engine flush. Engine flush is basically thin oil the consistency of diesel which you then run your engine on for a few minutes. I have a policy of nothing thinner than 0w-30 in my engine, so if anyone approaches my car with an engine flush, I'll use it to give them a good bowel cleansing.

Even if you had good luck that there were no carbon debris that jammed the gap between the bearing journals (like what Mr. Ichishima (Spoon) said could happen), you would still have accelerated wear on the journals in that few minutes of running on super thin oil.

Agreed. Would you use 10w40 in your car as Royal Purple have limited viscosities available in Aus.? (5w30 or 10w40). I am running 5w30 atm.

In reference to engine flushing...why not just use a releatively cheap oil (possibly OEM) with high detergent levels and run ethanol for about 150-200km's then flush and replace again(both times changing oil filter)...I don't see an engine flush doing much more than that...also engine flushes are also not recommended as they don't comply with the standards of abrasiveness on OEM Seals...


i gave this motul racing oil a go coz i got recommended n was waaay better than honda n castrol edge imo but since its $100 a pop plus $30 for engine flush (reccomended) dnt think i'll b usin it every time i do an oil change... bloody great oil tho, noticed the difference immedialtely, even on idle, engine a lot quiter n smoother.

Motul @ $100? I would buy Royal Purple @ $80...I noticed more than an noticable sound differance, smoothness, response and fuel efficiency (about 20-30km's per tank consistantly if not more and I just recently had my engine rebuilt) RP-FTW...and trust me I don't usually support american produce however they definantly have a good thing going there. Besides...its actually PURPLE...'sif you wouldn't want it lol. :p

Previous Products Used for Reference...
Motul 300V Series
Fuchs Semi-Synthetic/Full-Synthetic
Motul 8100 Synethic and 4100 Semi-Synthetic
Mobil Gold
Honda OEM.

I have used all of them and believe royal purple is the noticably better choice. I also think unless your going to spend the big bucks such as Royal Purple or Motul 300V; Honda OEM would probebly be the wisest choice.

[aaronng]

Agreed. Would you use 10w40 in your car as Royal Purple have limited viscosities available in Aus.? (5w30 or 10w40). I am running 5w30 atm.
I would use anything between 0w-30 to 10w-40. You'll be alright for sure.



I have used all of them and believe royal purple is the noticably better choice. I also think unless your going to spend the big bucks such as Royal Purple or Motul 300V; Honda OEM would probebly be the wisest choice.
I reckon the mid-range oils are still pretty good. Motul 8100 for $65 and 20% sale is good value, and so is Castrol Edge 0w-40 with 20% off. Edge 5w-30 is ok as well, but the only time I would buy that is when it is on promo for $30 for 5L. Honda FEO is good for a daily driver which has regular oil changes, but if you like pushing your car a little bit hard, there is nothing wrong with the mid range oils. I don't really agree with a street car needing 300V unless your wallet is too heavy for your pocket. :p

[F.O.B Squad]

Honda FEO. If you are not happy with oil consumption with FEO go up to a 10W-40 semi-synthetic and see if it improves.

Any other oils rather than OEM, i'm not stating that i dont want to use OEM just would like to know if theres other options for a motor over 200k's?

[VTECMACHINE]

Thanks for the elaboration Arron. Mr Spoon is cool, I had a D&M with him about Honda's when he was in Aus, and he said that the AUDM DC5R is a secutaries car, and that DC2R > DC5R. What a champ :D

Spoony, I agree with you. I have tried a bunch of different oil, and different viscosities. For me Royal Purple has by far been the best. I trust it with my life, and my engines life (Same thing I guess)... However, like all 10W-40's I find them a tad too thick. But I feel it's safer tracking with 10W-40 in the hotter months.

FOB Squad, for engine over 200K km's, use a thicker oil, like a 10W-40. IMO Honda Feo (which is 10W-30) could be a bit too thin.

[Sp00ny]

I don't really agree with a street car needing 300V unless your wallet is too heavy for your pocket. :p

Very true. Expessially considering my somewhat conservative driving habits...however I decided to get my engine rebuilt when I purchased it so since I have control over its wear and life I decide to Lay out the extra bit...I use Royal Purple + K&N Oil Filter...when you consider that a mid priced oil at about $30-50 change at intervals at 5k/6months (what i would personally do) and royal purple @ $80 (could go to 10k easily but i choose 6-7.5k/9 Months) It really doesn't work out that much more expensive...expessially if you don't drive much... ;)

You are right though...it can be considered overkill :angel:

[VTECMACHINE]

Nothing is overkill when it comes to oil :) Just like we need clean water, our engines need nice 'clean' oil :)

Why is everyone refering to prices here. Yes, in most instances price is what determines quality, but just remember marketing plays a HUGE role in pricing, and the products' position within the market.

[aaronng]

Very true. Expessially considering my somewhat conservative driving habits...however I decided to get my engine rebuilt when I purchased it so since I have control over its wear and life I decide to Lay out the extra bit...I use Royal Purple + K&N Oil Filter...when you consider that a mid priced oil at about $30-50 change at intervals at 5k/6months (what i would personally do) and royal purple @ $80 (could go to 10k easily but i choose 6-7.5k/9 Months) It really doesn't work out that much more expensive...expessially if you don't drive much... ;)

You are right though...it can be considered overkill :angel:

From what I found now, cheap mineral oils like Magnatec and even FEO last about 7000km with sedate city driving. After around 7000km my engine goes very rough. I have tried it twice and it always happens around 7000km. The midrange oils on the other hand like Edge 0w-40 and Motul 8100 don't go rough. But I do notice a loss of torque at high rpm, as if the oil was too thick, after going for a trackday and then another 3000km of street driving. So for me, the mid range oils are sufficient, eventhough I track my car. But, if your car budget allowed the use of high end oil, go for it by all means. I just get ticked off when ppl say to get 300V because the engine will feel more powerful. LOL. Thankfully, that hasn't happened in this thread yet.

[l3vnd1]

Royal Purple > Motul ???

[Zakarados]

After reading the last few pages, would you even notice a difference using the mid to higher end oils if I'm currently changing my Honda FEO at every 5000km?

In a stock type S, daily driver with spirited driving here and there.

[aaronng]

After reading the last few pages, would you even notice a difference using the mid to higher end oils if I'm currently changing my Honda FEO at every 5000km?

In a stock type S, daily driver with spirited driving here and there.

I doubt it. Supercheap is having Castrol Edge 5w-30 on sale at $29.95 now. Get a bottle to try out, I reckon.

[VTECMACHINE]

Royal Purple > Motul ???

I would personally say yes. But I guess it's a brand thing. Once a brand has been reliable and good to you, you won't go back or change to anything else. I trust it with my life now. Saying that, I have heard a bunch of people blowing engines using Royal Purple. But that's probably because they were pushing harder thinking their cars had royal purple and were invincible, similar to people that think stock Type R's are race cars and push their stock engines so sooo hard and blow them.

I don't think you'll notice much difference in different brands of oil in terms of performance if you change it often, but viscosities I find are extremely noticiable. The amount of engine response you lose from 10W-40 opposed to 5W-30 is amazing.

[aaronng]

^^ And there are people saying Motul also fcks your engine up, in a previous engine oil thread. Then you have other people saying Castrol Edge is cheap crap shit and anything Castrol should be avoided. LOL. Then you have people like me who have tried Shell Helix Ultra and was unimpressed.

[string]

Have any of you done a single oil analysis in your life-time? Or are you basing your impressions on how 'smooth' the engine is? Or how quickly the oil goes black?

Not much real information in this thread, just marketing bullshit.

[aaronng]

Nope, I haven't done any oil analysis. That's why I use whatever mid-range oil that is on discount. The flavour of the month for me is Edge 5w-30. It was previously Elf 5w-30 and then Motul 8100 5w-40 before that. I don't bother splitting hairs, my car does not have a highly tuned race engine anyway. :p

Also, if the oil turns black quickly, then I take that as a good oil. If I have oil that doesn't turn black, that means it is not cleaning the carbon deposits off the combustion chamber.

[l3vnd1]

Just went to 2 motor shops around Kensington/Botany area - NO ROYAL PURPLE!

One had Motul V300 competition.

Are there any performance shops in the east?

So Ricky (VTEC MACHINE) you noticed an increase in response from 5 - 30w to 10 - 40w?

I have been running Edge 5 - 30w but will be changing to a 10w - 40w for a track day in December due to increased temperatures.

Will be considering running 10 - 40 from now on because my car has done 122K's.

Is it advisable for an older engine to run a thicker oil?

[aaronng]

Just went to 2 motor shops around Kensington/Botany area - NO ROYAL PURPLE!

One had Motul V300 competition.

Are there any performance shops in the east?

So Ricky (VTEC MACHINE) you noticed an increase in response from 5 - 30w to 10 - 40w?

I have been running Edge 5 - 30w but will be changing to a 10w - 40w for a track day in December due to increased temperatures.

Will be considering running 10 - 40 from now on because my car has done 122K's.

Is it advisable for an older engine to run a thicker oil?
He meant 5w-30 has better response than 10w-40.

Are you having any problems with 5w-30? If not, then stick to it for street. As for the December trackday, no harm in trying. Why not go for Motul 8100 5w-40? It's pretty cheap at $65 before.

[VTECMACHINE]

That's right Arron, what I meant was engine responds better to 5W-30 rather than 10W-40.

You can get Royal Purple from IS Motor Racing and a whole bunch of place around Artamon. It's recommended that you use thicker oils with more KM's. But saying that, if you aren't buring any oil, stick to 5W-30, and enjoy the response from a thinner oil while you can :D. I honesly reakon there could be a loss of anywhere up to a second at Wakefield using 10W-40 opposed to 5W-30.

[string]

That's right Arron, what I mean was engine responds better to 5W-30 rather than 10W-40.

You can get Royal Purple from IS Motor Racing and a whole bunch of place around Artamon. It's recommended that you use thicker oils with more KM's. But saying that, if you aren't buring any oil, stick to 5W-30, and enjoy the response from a thinner oil while you can :D. I honesly reakon there could be a loss of anywhere up to a second at Wakefield using 10W-40 opposed to 5W-30.
One second at Wakefield, nice joke! If you want response, start removing mass from the rotating assembly where you will feel the difference, not imagine it due to the price you paid for an oil.

[VTECMACHINE]

Ha ha ha.

Both viscosities are the same price and same brand. One is thinner than the other. In my car with a B18C7, it makes a HUGE difference. I can honestly say at least 1/2 second, if not 1 second at Wakefield. Would be more noticable at a drag strip I reakon. have tried a few different viscosities in my Dad's euro, and sister's Civic and the difference is barely noticable.

yes and I know removing mass from rotating assembly etc will make more of a difference, but in terms on engine oil... viscocities make a world of difference.

Just curious, what testing have you done on oils yourself?

[aaronng]

1 second per lap is optimistic in my opinion. Even putting on sports headers, I don't think it made a difference to my time, eventhough I had additional midrange torque.

[string]

None; which is why I'm not making any claims myself.

I have however driven at Wakefield a few times, and know how much extra power a car would require to gain 0.5-1.0 seconds. Energy that would be otherwise dissipated into the thicker oil.

Out of intrest, do you have an oil temperature gauge? And if so, did you notice a difference in the normal temperature of the oil when changing viscosity?

[VTECMACHINE]

None; which is why I'm not making any claims myself.

I have however driven at Wakefield a few times, and know how much extra power a car would require to gain 0.5-1.0 seconds. Energy that would be otherwise dissipated into the thicker oil.

Out of intrest, do you have an oil temperature gauge? And if so, did you notice a difference in the normal temperature of the oil when changing viscosity?

First and foremost, I did not mention power, but response. Something I think is more important than power, especially at Wakefield. Ok maybe 1.0 second is exagerated, but I would honestly say 0.5. Well from my experiences this is true. I am always alot slower using 10W-40 rather than 5W-30 due to the lack of response, 1 - 1.5 seconds (could be other factors though, but the engine response is what kills me the most coming out of corners especially when sliding).

Yes I have an oil temp gauge, but cannot comment on normal temps of oil with different viscosities as they are all on different days, with different tunes.

[l3vnd1]

So thinner oil is better for response, However a thicker oil protects better at higher temperatures.

Hmmmm....

Can you Mix 5 - 30 with 10 - 40 and make a hypothetical 7.5w - 35w? (like octane)

[VTECMACHINE]

So thinner oil is better for power and response, However a thicker oil protects better at higher temperatures.

Hmmmm....

Can you Mix 5 - 30 with 10 - 40 and make a hypothetical 7.5w - 35w? (like octane)


Correct about response and I guess power. All depends on additivies and stuff and the properties of the oil. It's hard to say what oil protects better. But as a rule, I say thicker at higher temps to protect... so yeah if I were you, i'd use 10W-40 in summer for track work.

NFI about mixing... why bother?

[string]

First and foremost, I did not mention power, but response. Something I think is more important than power, especially at Wakefield. Ok maybe 1.0 second is exagerated, but I would honestly say 0.5. Well from my experiences this is true. I am always alot slower using 10W-40 rather than 5W-30 due to the lack of response.

Other than increased overall power output, how else do you think the car is going to go faster around the track? Unless you're going to tell me that this Royal Purple engine oil will also reducing braking distances and increase the grip of my tyres?



Yes I have an oil temp gauge, but cannot comment on normal temps of oil with different viscosities as they are all on different days, with different tunes.
So how can you compare the responsiveness in different conditions and more significantly, states of ecu tune and then attribute it solely to the oil?

[aaronng]

Can you Mix 5 - 30 with 10 - 40 and make a hypothetical 7.5w - 35w? (like octane)

Doesn't really work that way. But I do have 1L of Elf 5w-30, 2L of Edge 5w-30 and 1L of Mobil 10w-40 in my engine now. :p

[VTECMACHINE]

Other than increased overall power output, how else do you think the car is going to go faster around the track? Unless you're going to tell me that this Royal Purple engine oil will also reducing braking distances and increase the grip of my tyres?

It's easier to control a car at it's limits when you have good response of an engine under your belt. What times, and what car you using? Just curious...



So how can you compare the responsiveness in different conditions and more significantly, states of ecu tune and then attribute it solely to the oil?

Because I have switched tunes every 3 track days or so, and used different viscocities with the same tune. It's easy to feel engine response. And quite obvious when you go for an OPH run on 5W-30, then change oil to 10W-40 that day, then go for another OPH run. Different viscoties DO make large difference to engine response, and like I have said it's easier to note on some engines rather than others.

[string]

It's easier to control a car at it's limits when you have good response of an engine under your belt. What times, and what car you using? Just curious...

No official timing but 1:18~ was best from the recordings on a particular day. Chassis is a stock motor 130hp aus DA9. Many seconds left to gain with the setup, can't wait to get back. With the RPM high enough, even my non-vtec heap of garbage is plenty responsive simply due to the massive intake air velocity - having more engine response wouldn't have gained me even 0.1seconds, unless it somehow fixed my completely misaligned front end in the process giving me catastrophic understeer at the hint of steering input.

How quick are you in your DC2R?

[l3vnd1]

Hey Ricky;

Thanks for the tip - IS Motor racing were really helpful. Just got back with a 5L Royal Purple 10w - 40w for $80.

[aaronng]

No official timing but 1:18~ was best from the recordings on a particular day. Chassis is a stock motor 130hp aus DA9. Many seconds left to gain with the setup, can't wait to get back. With the RPM high enough, even my non-vtec heap of garbage is plenty responsive simply due to the massive intake air velocity - having more engine response wouldn't have gained me even 0.1seconds, unless it somehow fixed my completely misaligned front end in the process giving me catastrophic understeer at the hint of steering input.

How quick are you in your DC2R?

Nice! was that with street tyres? I wish my car was lighter. Throwing around 1400kg is not fun.

[VTECMACHINE]

No official timing but 1:18~ was best from the recordings on a particular day. Chassis is a stock motor 130hp aus DA9. Many seconds left to gain with the setup, can't wait to get back. With the RPM high enough, even my non-vtec heap of garbage is plenty responsive simply due to the massive intake air velocity - having more engine response wouldn't have gained me even 0.1seconds, unless it somehow fixed my completely misaligned front end in the process giving me catastrophic understeer at the hint of steering input.

How quick are you in your DC2R?

Nice man. Great time!

I'm in the 1.11's, should be faster though. The difference in time from 11 - 18 is quite a bit, and to be honest if my car didn't respond like it did, i'd still be in the 13's. I'm not trying to sound like a ****, but when you are going faster and sliding and stuff, you do need instant engine response coming out of corners and go into them etc. I guess you'll understand what i'm saying when you get down to those times. Response isn't nesscessary, but it's important. I sacrificed peak power for response in my tune, and was miles faster consistantly.

[Sp00ny]

One second at Wakefield, nice joke! If you want response, start removing mass from the rotating assembly where you will feel the difference, not imagine it due to the price you paid for an oil.

Hey again string...

First of all...Yes I have seen tested conducted and heard first mouth from a family friend that works for mobil say that BP Petrol is the cleanest and that Royal Purple Oil provides the best lubrication...someone that you would consider to have bias...has completely supported something from the other end of the "marketing scale" as you speak of.

There are tests which are hard to come by but other than the one Royal Purple did....by Oil Commisions and divisions of DOT.

I know what you are saying...i agree...i really don't think that the differance of using royal purple compared to Motul or a mid ranged oil will change wear unless we are talking under stressed situations or over 100,000kms + ....I use it because I have the money...i rebuilt my engine and want nothing but the best...that way if my engine has any problems...i know I did everything in my power (including driving relatively conservatively) to prevent it. I have not had ONE single engine problem ever...same with my old mans and mums car which i service the same...both with varying k's of course.

Cheers.

[aaronng]

Hey again string...

First of all...Yes I have seen tested conducted and heard first mouth from a family friend that works for mobil say that BP Petrol is the cleanest and that Royal Purple Oil provides the best lubrication...someone that you would consider to have bias...has completely supported something from the other end of the "marketing scale" as you speak of.

There are tests which are hard to come by but other than the one Royal Purple did....by Oil Commisions and divisions of DOT.

I know what you are saying...i agree...i really don't think that the differance of using royal purple compared to Motul or a mid ranged oil will change wear unless we are talking under stressed situations or over 100,000kms + ....I use it because I have the money...i rebuilt my engine and want nothing but the best...that way if my engine has any problems...i know I did everything in my power (including driving relatively conservatively) to prevent it. I have not had ONE single engine problem ever...same with my old mans and mums car which i service the same...both with varying k's of course.

Cheers.
String was talking about doubting a big performance increase from more expensive oil. Not protection increase from more expensive oil.

[Tap.Ris]

Amsoil

where did u get amsoil?

[Sp00ny]

String was talking about doubting a big performance increase from more expensive oil. Not protection increase from more expensive oil.

Your completely right, haha. I apologise string. I did forget to mention response though, I could notice a differance in response meaning the car jumps from low to full throtlle and instanty accelerates. Actual power wise I can't tell a differance. This is comparing Fuchs/ Motul synthetics to royal purple. Same viscosity.

[string]

Nice man. Great time!

I'm in the 1.11's, should be faster though. The difference in time from 11 - 18 is quite a bit, and to be honest if my car didn't respond like it did, i'd still be in the 13's. I'm not trying to sound like a ****, but when you are going faster and sliding and stuff, you do need instant engine response coming out of corners and go into them etc. I guess you'll understand what i'm saying when you get down to those times. Response isn't nesscessary, but it's important. I sacrificed peak power for response in my tune, and was miles faster consistantly.

I would have gone much faster if I wasn't sliding all over the place - but I think it's crazy to think you'll get a setup right first go. I won't go into the details but with a new chassis I'm picking up next week I'd like to shave off a couple of seconds when I return early next year. Going to see how far I can take the stock motor. Not interesed in power, only carrying corner speed :)

Out of curiosity, how exactly did your tuner sacrifice peak power for response?

[VTECMACHINE]

I would have gone much faster if I wasn't sliding all over the place - but I think it's crazy to think you'll get a setup right first go. I won't go into the details but with a new chassis I'm picking up next week I'd like to shave off a couple of seconds when I return early next year. Going to see how far I can take the stock motor. Not interesed in power, only carrying corner speed :)

Out of curiosity, how exactly did your tuner sacrifice peak power for response?


Lap times aren't everything and I really don't care, I was just trying to stress a point, and it seems you are determined to go off on a a different tangent.

If I knew how to tune, and understood it, I wouldn't have a tuner, i'd do it myself. But overall, he generally made it a safer tune. He overlapped VTAK change over which gave me a bunch of mid range response, and by playing with fueling it gave me freaking s**t loads of response, but lost a few KW of peak power.

Anyways, 5W-30 makes an engine (Well, a B18C7 anyways) respond much better then if using 10W-40, regardless of brand, price or protection ...End of story.

[TODA AU]

We use ELF 15W50 synthetic oil in our Super Sprint EG
B18C based engine...
Exellent pressure & temperature control
It is likley we'd make more power with a thinner oil & have better response,
However engine life is more important.

[JDM DC2R]

engine: B18c7
oil brand and W: Mobil 1 Gold EP 5-30
kms: 156000km
likes and dislikes: Love it. I get from a importer from America. Different Mobil 1 from super cheap ect, No burning which i was getting with castrol Edge 5-30. Stay's clear golden colour between services. I service every 5000 km or 6 months
Oil Filter. K&N