rear swaybar upgrade options for dc2r

[vteccoupe]

Stock dc2r is 23mm, pretty thick for OEM, but is hollow inside so stiffness is nt as good as aftermarket ones.

Looking at whitelines swaybar options. There is the 24mm and the 27mm swaybars.

Would 27mm be overkill?

The above upgrade is for track intentions.

[Sp00ny]

Stock dc2r is 23mm, pretty thick for OEM, but is hollow inside so stiffness is nt as good as aftermarket ones.

Looking at whitelines swaybar options. There is the 24mm and the 27mm swaybars.

Would 27mm be overkill?

The above upgrade is for track intentions.

** Stock DC2R are 22mm in AU/EUR/US, the JDM ITR has 23mm in 98+ models

How positive are you that they are hollow? I have a 22mm Whiteline which is solid and the performance differance between Hollow and Solid seems to be unnoticable...Comparing it to cars with 22mm OEM swaybars.

If they were hollow I dont think people would recommend using them in VTi-R/GSi/EG upgrades with a reinforcement Kit....Whiteline did however tell me that "the front 'MUST' be hollow if its 24mm stock" which im not sure wether they're correct or not...

I installed a Whiteline 22mm Rear Sway Bar to replace the stock 14mm, (Suspension: KYB AGX & Spoon Progressives) and the car definantly stays flatter through corners and has better balance...but its definantly not what i would call "night and day differance".

So the differance between 24 -> 27mm wouldnt be much...but you also have to consider the balance of your car...by installing a larger rear swaybar your car will have a "balance" towards oversteer...however the differance would be lucky if noticable on the street...probebly noticeable on the track though...

I would be more inclined to go with a set of better suspension or coilovers...before i worried about changing the swaybars in a Type R...Honda are pretty good at what they do...and i dont see a reason why you should change them unless you have exhausted all your other options...

I would however drop into Repco/search on OzHonda and buy some Energy/Nolathane D-Bracket Bushes for your Front and Rear Swaybars... Costs about $18 for each set and for $40 the best bang for buck modification wise. Prevents premature and unwanted movement with the swaybar and noticably improves the response...for me it didnt effect corner balance or actual body roll. Nice Modification for the money though...

[vteccoupe]

yeap alraedy has jic coilovers in it now.

i used to haf a dc2 vti-r and got a set of whiteline 22mm swaybar. loving it. It totally tightens the rear and eliminate so much understeer it becums very pin point accurate sorta body movement.

at that point of time for me - its definitely a night and day differences

definitely the best sussy mods, i rate it higher than a set of coilovers

[Sp00ny]

yeap alraedy has jic coilovers in it now.

i used to haf a dc2 vti-r and got a set of whiteline 22mm swaybar. loving it. It totally tightens the rear and eliminate so much understeer it becums very pin point accurate sorta body movement.

at that point of time for me - its definitely a night and day differences

definitely the best sussy mods, i rate it higher than a set of coilovers

You rate it higher than coilovers?! Wow.

Bang for buck yes for sure...but definantly not best performance...you could run stock suspension w/ 27/24mm sways compare it to a nice set of 5zigen/Zeal/Fightex....and there will be no competition...

My mate has 5zigen coilovers with a whiteline swaybar...which we recently removed to a transfer....and it definantly made a differance but the car still stays flat in corners and handles very good....estimated rates are 12/10kgmm possibly higher...there fairly stiff though...enough to knock you around a fair bit on the streets....

Bang For Buck:
- Link/Bracket Bushes
- Sways
- Proper Wheel Alignment
- Coils
- Chassis Products

Straight Performance:
- Coilovers/Shock&Spring
- Sways
- Wheel Alignment
- Chassis Products
- Bushes

JIC are pretty good...depending on your rates I would consider changing the springs and opting to get it re-valved...if you have coilovers and OEM R sways and your worried about handling...first thing i would be questioning is the coilovers...As i said my mates VTi-R with 5zigen sitting on Yoko S-Drives handles like it literally is on train tracks. With 15 year old bushes, stock 24/14 sways and stock VTi-R Front Strut with Rear OEM Type R Strut...

[55EXX]

asr do a 32mm hollow bar. but 22-23mm is stiff enough. up your spring rates. or 27mm whiteline front with asr 32mm hollow rear ONLY if it is a track whore and you don't street drive it. a setup that stiff will be terrible on bumpy surfaces!

[Sp00ny]

asr do a 32mm hollow bar. but 22-23mm is stiff enough. up your spring rates. or 27mm whiteline front with asr 32mm hollow rear ONLY if it is a track whore and you don't street drive it. a setup that stiff will be terrible on bumpy surfaces!

Although the differance in ride comfort is noticable with a stiffer swaybar...its not exactly what I call unworthy of street driving...i went from 14mm to 22mm with reinforcement and the rigidity is noticable but a 3mm differance up front and equivilant 5mm differance in the rear isnt going to be over noticable, if at all.

Spring Rates are what dramatically change ride comfort and the dampening and rebound force of your dampeners. As i have said above invest in Energy/Nolathane poly urethane bushes for both swaybars...as the stock rubbers (even Type R Spec) are quite ordinary. I would be looking down avenues of a nice wheel alignment and caster/camber adjustment before i went to 27/32h (equiv to about 27/27) from 24/22 solid. Its a waste of money and time expessially if you are going to pay for installation...front swaybar installation can be a pain in the a*se.

Also consider polyurethane endlinks for the front/rear and d-bracket to subframe poly's...for about $50-60 you will be surprised the differance it will make.

Just donating my $0.02 xD

[T-onedc2]

I've also been told by one other person that JDM 23mm sway bar is hollow but can find nothing to back it up, it's damn heavy and I don't think it's hollow.

[bennjamin]

ive been told too....its done to save on weight (grab a 22 and a 23 and the 23 will be lighter)

Someone cut one in half for us !

BTW guys remember a hollow swaybar of the same circumference of a solid one , (IE 22 solid vs 22 hollow) will actually be less effective / noticeable than the solid unit.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d21/hulye/04-12-08_1641.jpg

[bennjamin]

ps here is a good insight on both hollow vs solid bars -

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/Hollow%20vs%20Solid%20Swaybar.pdf