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TKO
26-08-2008, 05:25 PM
The outer bolt snapped while loosening the oem header for the x-force header.
The mechanic completed the installation and said he had put plenty of gel and checked there was no gas lack.

Photo attached.

Car: EG Hatch (EG5)
Engine: D16Y1

Without the outer bolt, will it likely gas lack will occur? How to id a gas lack? How hard to reinstate the bolt?

Thank you for your help.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m28/TKO_R/DSC00916.jpg

JasonGilholme
26-08-2008, 05:29 PM
1) take it to someone else
2) uninstall the header
3) use an easy out to remove the stud
4) replace the stud with an OEM item (or ARP equivelent)
5) re-install headers
6) pay the company
7) take the bill to your previous mechanic cause he's a twit and shouldn't be workin on cars.

mrwillz
26-08-2008, 05:32 PM
gg.....

what a bitch

JasonGilholme
26-08-2008, 05:35 PM
actually i just noticed, its a bolt. my bad. Same deal tho.

1) take it to someone else
2) uninstall the header
3) use an easy out to remove the remaining bolt
4) clean up the thread in the block if need be and replace bolt
5) re-install headers
6) pay the company
7) take the bill to your previous mechanic cause he's a twit and shouldn't be workin on cars.

dumped echo
27-08-2008, 01:28 PM
Who's your mechanic?

But in his mechanic's defence, he did say that it snapped while loosening it, which would suggest that its more the strength of the bolt, vs how tight it was in there that snapped it. I mean, unless he was turning it the wrong way then there's not that much he could do to prevent it is there?

In terms of your questions, there is a chance of a leak obviously, but you'll know pretty soon by smelling exhaust in your cabin and then seeing the exhaust fumes leaking out at that spot. Follow Jason's instructions on how to get it out. A good shop should be able to do it no probs.

TKO
27-08-2008, 11:13 PM
thanks. Yeap i guess there not much the mechanic could do...the heating and cooling down for like 14yrs may have weaken the bolt.

aimre
30-08-2008, 11:18 AM
this is why i hate mechanics, instead of fixing it properley (even charging u an extra $20) they just load it with 'gel' and say its alright

aaronng
30-08-2008, 11:56 AM
It's a stud. Good luck. You will have to drill it out very very carefully because they are on very tight. Get a new stud of the same thread pitch and diameter, hopefully high tensile too and put that in.

turbo convert
30-08-2008, 12:23 PM
I had the same thing happen on my r32, i called the thread doctor "he comes to you". i think he drilled it out put a new stud in for $30-50

omgzilla
30-08-2008, 05:36 PM
I had the same thing happen on my r32, i called the thread doctor "he comes to you". i think he drilled it out put a new stud in for $30-50

I'd personally let the thread doctor do it. Unless you are crafty and have a decent drill as well as a tap&die set - you'll just make it worse!

turbo convert
30-08-2008, 05:41 PM
haha.....yeah that was my thoughts too i would prob make it worse only takes this guy like 20mins, re threads it etc. Money well spent

EKVTIR-T
30-08-2008, 05:44 PM
haha.....yeah that was my thoughts too i would prob make it worse only takes this guy like 20mins, re threads it etc. Money well spent

how mut you pay?

turbo convert
30-08-2008, 05:46 PM
i think $30-50 was a few yrs ago now!

NightKids
31-08-2008, 11:13 AM
What headers are they? They look alrite...

aaronng
31-08-2008, 03:23 PM
First post says x-force header.

twing
01-09-2008, 11:20 AM
OH SNAP! Looks scary... I'm planning to change my header too.
How to take the nut out properly without snapping it?
Lots of WD40?

vinnY
01-09-2008, 11:28 AM
my suggestion is loosen them all and then take out the bolts
sometimes with aftermarket headers, some of the bolt holes aren't aligned well and could catch on to the thread of the bolt causing it to snap if you apply enough torque
i've done it once, never again

Limbo
01-09-2008, 11:31 AM
get your mechanic to replace the stud. He should have done it whilst it was off.
Over time the side will leak. If he was lazy the stud man would have done it for $50-80.
Or he could have drilled it out and retapped it.

aaronng
01-09-2008, 01:40 PM
OH SNAP! Looks scary... I'm planning to change my header too.
How to take the nut out properly without snapping it?
Lots of WD40?

That would be the first thing I'd use before trying to loosen the bolts.

JasonGilholme
01-09-2008, 03:34 PM
i think the aussie equivelent is penetrene.

penetrene > wd40 :thumbsup:

aaronng
01-09-2008, 04:06 PM
I use Inox instead of WD40. Doesn't damage plastic.

omgzilla
01-09-2008, 09:20 PM
Penetrine or CRC are both good. Anything with PTFE in it should do the trick.

The best i've used would be "Wurth: Rost Off". (http://www.autogeek.net/wurooffex.html)

Seriously though - either take it back and get them to get the stud replaced or call the thread doctor!

dumped echo
02-09-2008, 07:21 PM
I tried rost off before....It didn't seem that great, but only used it a couple times.
Weird part is that its not really a lubricant...doesn't feel oily or anything

Crapdaz
02-09-2008, 07:28 PM
as dumped echo said,
ROST OFF or LOTS OF WD40.


I tried rost off before....It didn't seem that great, but only used it a couple times.
Weird part is that its not really a lubricant...doesn't feel oily or anything
it just freezes off the rust.

TKO
02-09-2008, 09:06 PM
Regarding to the thread doctor option.

Do they have a shop or some equipment to rise the car? Because i think you will need to rise the car to undo the header. will they undo my header .... fix the bolt ...reattach the header?