Engine Oil to use between Mobil 2000 and castrol magnatec

[huhjared]

Hi guys,
gonna have my servicing done soon and was wondering which would be better for my 04' euro lux with 70ks on the clock... should i go with

Mobil 2000 (10-40)
or
Castrol Magnatec (10-40)

So far with my previous car... Mazda 6 the mobil 2000 was great...

[Bobjones]

Neither, go and get Castrol Edge in the same specs.

[Crapdaz]

motul 8100 xcess

[huhjared]

is 10-40 the correct spec?? for a 70ks euro? looking at changing my oil every 5000 so i guess it should be the below the $50 mark for the oil...

[aaronng]

You can use 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40. So either one. I wouldn't use Castrol Edge as it is too expensive. Motul 8100 5w40 is better value.

[Crapdaz]

depends on what oil you get,

oil ranges from $35-65 depending if on sale and what brand.
i put 5w40 but 10w-40 should be fine and i am on 69xxxkm.

[huhjared]

anyone know where the sump nut and the oil filter is located? gonna do the 5000ks servicing myself and 10000ks servicing at honda....

[Crapdaz]

sump plug - there is a splash guard piece underneath the car about 1metre in, that is held on to with a 10mm bolt. Remove the splash guard and you will see the sump drain plug.

And the oil filter is located just diagonally up&forward towards the driver side from the sump close to the right front wheel.

Hope this gives you a fair idea.

[aaronng]

anyone know where the sump nut and the oil filter is located? gonna do the 5000ks servicing myself and 10000ks servicing at honda....
There is a squarish plastic cover that you remove from the undertray. Then you will see the sump bolt. Make sure you have a new crush washer ready to replace the old one. The oil filter is located up and to the right of that sump nut, just above the driveshaft.

[EuroAccord13]

Motul 8100 is a better BFYB engine oil.

A word of advice when you are removing the oil filter, wrap some cloth over the drive shafts and the region under the oil filter plug as the oil will leak everywhere when you remove the old oil filter out.

[Bobjones]

You can use 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40. So either one. I wouldn't use Castrol Edge as it is too expensive. Motul 8100 5w40 is better value.

Having an engine fail due to using Motul I will never again touch the stuff. APC use Edge in our race car and so that is what we use in all our cars. Indep. tests have revealed, on our engines anyway, reduced wear and the oil stands up better to the punishment. Worth every dollar, and as they say, you get what you paid for...

[aaronng]

Having an engine fail due to using Motul I will never again touch the stuff. APC use Edge in our race car and so that is what we use in all our cars. Indep. tests have revealed, on our engines anyway, reduced wear and the oil stands up better to the punishment. Worth every dollar, and as they say, you get what you paid for...

I am not 100% sure if your engine failure was caused by Motul directly. Otherwise, all of us who have used Motul would have failed engines too, especially my car. In your case, did the oil gum up under stress?

[Crapdaz]

I am not 100% sure if your engine failure was caused by Motul directly. Otherwise, all of us who have used Motul would have failed engines too, especially my car. In your case, did the oil gum up under stress?
and mine.

[Type R Positive]

Having an engine fail due to using Motul I will never again touch the stuff. APC use Edge in our race car and so that is what we use in all our cars. Indep. tests have revealed, on our engines anyway, reduced wear and the oil stands up better to the punishment. Worth every dollar, and as they say, you get what you paid for...
Fail due to Motul :confused: Thats a HUGE call.....

[huhjared]

hm...
anyway i personally wont spend more than $50 for oil...
went down to supercheap and have a look at the options i have..

so far its just

Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40
Mobil 2000 10W-40
Castrol magnatec 10w-40 (dont really like magnatec due to bad experience on them with 2 of my magnas and my 380 and my mazda 6.....)

tried shell ultra twice... one on the 380 and the other on the mazda 6...
380 work awesome, but on the 6 it made the car vibrate on the oil....

Basically i am after a oil that would keep my engine in good shape give me good fuel efficiency and most importantly smooth and quiet... my personal feeling is that the mobil is going to give me that espeically with no track driving and 5000km oil change...

Just cahnge to the euro like 2 weeks ago... real reason behind from the 6 to the euro was because of the comfort level and the better sound insulation... the 6 sound insulation was as bad or might be even worst than a lancer...

pls correct me if i am wrong.... open to all comments

[snajper]

Magnatec is only good for 7-8K. Not that good for 10K service intervals.

[Euro08Jaz]

what do you use aaronng?

[aaronng]

If you can afford the Euro, spend the $65 for Motul 8100 5w-40.

[aaronng]

what do you use aaronng?

I have used Castrol Edge 5w-30, Edge 0w-40, Magnatec 10w-40, Elf 5w-30, Motul 8100 5w-40 and FEO. I buy in bulk when supercheap or autobarn have their 20% off storewide.

The best is still Motul 8100.

[Euro08Jaz]

is motual good for cold starts? what about summer oils?

[tony1234]

I have used Castrol Edge 5w-30, Edge 0w-40, Magnatec 10w-40, Elf 5w-30, Motul 8100 5w-40 and FEO. I buy in bulk when supercheap or autobarn have their 20% off storewide.

The best is still Motul 8100.
Why do you think 8100 is the best?What has it got over the Elf?

[aaronng]

is motual good for cold starts? what about summer oils?

Oils with the first number as 0w, 5w and 10w are fine for cold starts down to -18 C. The second number is at 100 C, which is operating temperature. So you want to get the 2nd number at either 30 or 40 as spec'd by the manual. You can use 20, but I wouldn't risk it, especially during summer.

[slidetaker]

Hi guys,
gonna have my servicing done soon and was wondering which would be better for my 04' euro lux with 70ks on the clock... should i go with

Mobil 2000 (10-40)
or
Castrol Magnatec (10-40)

So far with my previous car... Mazda 6 the mobil 2000 was great...

For 10W40, do consider Valvoline SynGuard....it is doing special 5L for $28 at Supercheapauto...which is a lot cheaper than Mobil Super 2000, which I think is above $40...

SynGuard will have no problem lasting 5000km....

More information need for the guy who said Motul caused engine failure....at least told us how the engine failure...

[teaseR]

i think FEO is ur best bet

[huhjared]

Mobil 2000 is $32...

is the valvoline sync guard the same as magnatec?
whats FEO?? and where to get them? how much are they?

[EuroAccord13]

FEO is Fuel Efficient Oil, A Honda product sold at dealerships. (Manufactured by Castrol to Honda's spec).

[huhjared]

So how much are the FEO? and is honda the only place to get them? what ratings are they if i remember correctly i seen some at 10w-30....

[Bobjones]

Fail due to Motul :confused: Thats a HUGE call.....

It was a built engine and the failure has been proven by several engineers to be attributable to the oil, and it has been settled and that is as far as I can go on the matter. It was also not a one off occurrence.

I cannot go into specifics, but I can say that I would not use it in my motor mower...if you don't believe me then that is fine, its hard to get things accross on the internet...at the end of the day its your choice.

Also, I am not saying that if you use it your engine will blow up, anyone perceiving that has the IQ of a turtle...

Also if you are going to spend the coin on Motul 8100 then try the Castrol Edge. Also Valvoline...well you know what I mean...its well crap...

[huhjared]

OK i think i am more or less set with the oil...

Either mobil 2000 10W-40
or
Castrol Magnetac 10W-40
or
???

cant really decide which one to use
anyone comment on these 2?

[tron07]

hm...
anyway i personally wont spend more than $50 for oil...
went down to supercheap and have a look at the options i have..

so far its just

Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40
Mobil 2000 10W-40
Castrol magnatec 10w-40 (dont really like magnatec due to bad experience on them with 2 of my magnas and my 380 and my mazda 6.....)

tried shell ultra twice... one on the 380 and the other on the mazda 6...
380 work awesome, but on the 6 it made the car vibrate on the oil....

Basically i am after a oil that would keep my engine in good shape give me good fuel efficiency and most importantly smooth and quiet... my personal feeling is that the mobil is going to give me that espeically with no track driving and 5000km oil change...

Just cahnge to the euro like 2 weeks ago... real reason behind from the 6 to the euro was because of the comfort level and the better sound insulation... the 6 sound insulation was as bad or might be even worst than a lancer...

pls correct me if i am wrong.... open to all comments

Get Castrol Edge 5w-30.... less then $50.

Std price from Kmart around $48, some discount here and there..... $30-$45 plus depends on sales

[slidetaker]

......

Also if you are going to spend the coin on Motul 8100 then try the Castrol Edge. Also Valvoline...well you know what I mean...its well crap...

Which Valvoline, in what application, which areas (performance, protection???) do you think is crap?:confused:

Do share, give details....;)

[Bobjones]

The best way to explain how crap Valvoline is, in any application, is to change your oil with even the best Valvoline, do 5,000km's change the oil put in something better like Castrol Edge (not Magnetec, that stuff is for commodores) and do the same km's. Compare the oils, they both will turn dark as this is suspending carbon and general engine wear contaminants (of which you would need a chemist to compare how well they suspend these particles). However, the consistency of the oil from new to when you change it will be VASTLY different between the two oils. Change the filter with the oil and cut it open, it will undoubtedly result in a build up in the Valvoline filter. I have seen this oil and another one starting with M gumm up oil squirters, head oil return restrictors, oil pick ups etc. This is all in high performance applications, which in essence is how a Honda engine is built, tight clearances etc and thus given that these are modern technological engines I would not be putting rubbish in them. In fact, I think I may try and find a wreck and pull the engine down, unless someone has a detailed engine schematic????

[aaronng]

Do you recommend the Edge 0w-40 or is the 5w-30 fine, seeing that one is Group IV and the other the cheaper Group III?

[Bobjones]

I always run the 0w-40 in built engines, and will be running it in the Honda after the first 10,000. given that Honda recommend a 10w-40 and given that our climate is more orientated towards heat and not cold then the 0w-40 would be the pic. As the for 5w 30, this would also be fine if your in say Melbourne Sydney, but for an extra few bucks you can notice the smoothness of the engine and also possible fuel saving, yes fuel saving, less friction=less wear=less fuel consumption, in may cases it has been known to be 1-2%, not much but still an idea!!!

[aaronng]

I'm just not too flash with the 5w-30 as it is a hydrocracked oil, so is essentially an "optimised" mineral oil. I know it will protect good, but I know that the base stock would break down quicker than the Edge 0w-40. In the end the concern is the same as with you and the M**** brand where the oil breaks down under stress and heat and creates a nice icky gum....

[slidetaker]

The best way to explain how crap Valvoline is, in any application, is to change your oil with even the best Valvoline, do 5,000km's change the oil put in something better like Castrol Edge (not Magnetec, that stuff is for commodores) and do the same km's. Compare the oils, they both will turn dark as this is suspending carbon and general engine wear contaminants...

Interesting that you mentioned Valvoline filter, I know that it is nothing special. Comparing with Napa, Purolator, K&N, Valvoline filter performs poorly in particle size filtration spec, which is fair as it is priced accordingly.

I believe oil colour does not give accurate indication of the performance of an oil. At best, I will say the oil is doing “something” when it changes its colour. One oil turns darker faster than another generally because of its ability to clean better than the other one. Oil with high additives content, especially in corrosion and oxidation inhibitors, have higher rate of reaction to battle contaminants that could turns darker faster as its detergents get used up. Conversely, oil with low proportion of additives and high proportion of base oil, will not change its colour as much as there is less neutralization of contaminants. Getting into performances VS protections……

Compares to Saab, VW, GM, BMW and some Toyota sludge motors, Honda engine is actually quite easy on the oil. While most engines of other manufacturers have lists of approval for oil such as VW 505 and BMW LongLife, Acura HTO-06 spec is applicable only to a small series of Honda engine. With all the other Honda engines not requiring the spec, lots of people in the US has used mineral oils with good results backed up with numerous UOAs.

Coming back to Valvoline, the fact is SynPower specs looks good on paper while recent list of manufacturers’ oil approvals also looks valid pointing towards a high standard. Some UOAs from people in the US even showed it has lower wear number of Fe than the same viscosity oil of Mobil 1 and I have yet to see any serious drawback of this oil. Even Maxlife is doing well for many people against other HM oils in the market.

The matter of fact is there is rarely a case of oil causing serious damages, failures or sky high wear numbers. As long as one stays with manufacturer’s maintenance schedule, oil API and viscosity rating, any brand of oil will do just fine. While going outside these boundaries too far, one must understand the fundamentals of tribology in order to identify the most suitable oil for his/her application. :honda:

Just my 2 cents for what it is worth. :p

[Bobjones]

I was talking about the Oil mate not a Valvoline filter, I would again not use these on my lawn mower....

With respect to the oil colour, unless you can analyse the contents on the particles in the oil, including properties of said oil your merely grasping at straws. The purpose of oil is lubrication, heat exchange and particulate suspension. Thus, as it performs this process depending on engine type, use, etc the oil will perform in different ways and degrade, have carbon or particulate matter saturation at different rates. Oil changing colour is due to this and not the using up of cleaners ro battling contamination, I would not want my oil repelling deposits so that they sit in the engine and not to some degree get filtered out or suspended so as not to increase friction and thus wear...

As for failure NOT due to oil, well I will disagree strongly there and agree to disagree and leave it at that. I will also say that when I tell something I use first hand info, not internet found buffle...

[tim-e]

FEO is Fuel Efficient Oil, A Honda product sold at dealerships. (Manufactured by Castrol to Honda's spec).I presume this is what they use for servicing? I just let them do it. The service record quotes $60 (including environmental levy) and describes it as "engine oil synthetic."

[aaronng]

I presume this is what they use for servicing? I just let them do it. The service record quotes $60 (including environmental levy) and describes it as "engine oil synthetic."

Not really. My previous dealer used Magnatec.

[slidetaker]

I was talking about the Oil mate not a Valvoline filter, I would again not use these on

Could you say which brand of oil filter and which Motul oil was in the engine when it fails?

[tron07]

Here is a good read....




Why are there low mileage sports cars that have ruined engines? Why do they have electrical problems?

Ferrari automobiles are perhaps the most problematic. But Why? It seems that most of those who purchase a Ferrari do not often drive them, and when they do they abuse them. Let me explain.

Each morning the lawn is wet with dew. This is because as the temperature drops the dew point is reached and the moisture in the air condenses. This happens in your engine as well. There is air and moisture in the engine. As it sits over night the moisture condenses. It is a repeating cycle. It is actually worse than the outside air. After driving the engine is very hot so as it cools it sucks in a lot of moist outside air.

Remember the products of combustion are water and CO2. The water condenses in the engine during start up and even steam blows by the piston rings for another source of water.

There are additives that help the oil absorb water but if the engine is not started then the water that condensed in all parts of the motor keep it wet. If the car lives near water or worse, salty water, then the situation is compounded. Another thing that makes things worse is mildew and fungal growth, yes it can even grow in oil!

Water is bad but there is another source of corrosion, acids. These result from byproducts of combustion that slip past the piston rings and from fuel dilution of the oil. Again, the oil has additives to neutralize these acids but work only when the oil is splashed around the inside of the engine.

Corrosive products and water in the atmosphere also take their toll on electrical components. Electrical switches are problematic. These are helped by using the switches. When you get in the car and role down the windows and click all the switches they scrape some of the thin corrosion off the contacts. Again, use of the car helps whereas sitting around is detrimental.

Fan and timing belts age at accelerated rates when static and in cold climates. Cold is also bad for plastic, leather and all rubber like parts. Winters are tough on cars. Up north it is cold and the cars get little use. And down south it is moist all the time. Moisture is an independent factor increasing engine wear. Engine tests are usually performed in controlled humidity environments.

People think that taking the car out for a 10 or 15 minute spin will keep it in good shape. Well that is better than nothing because at least everything is splashed down with oil in the engine and some switches are activated that helps remove corrosion. But to burn off excess fuel and water from the oil it must be brought up to full operating temperature. This takes 20 or 30 minutes. Your coolant heats up in as little as 2 – 3 minutes but oil takes up to half an hour to get up to full operating temperature. You should drive the car for another half hour or more after the oil is up to temperature.

People do not realize that “severe” driving conditions that require more frequent oil changes include stop and go city driving of only 20 minute drives or less. This is a severe condition because the oil never gets hot and never burns off the extra fuel or water. For this reason the oil must be changed more often.

Now for my favorite topic, cavitation. This is what accounts for the greatest wear in minimally used engines (in my thinking). Cavitation occurs in fluids when they cannot be moved fast enough. In the bearing the oil is thick at start up (75 F) and yet the parts are moving fast. Vacuum bubbles result. When they collapse there is a huge force that pulls chunks of bearing material from the lining. The chunks may include the full thickness of the bearing. Sometimes pits are seen on bearings and blamed on corrosion or improper lubrication but the culprit is more likely to be cavitation.

People start up their cars and rev up the engines. They impress their friends with the Vroom, Vroom, Vroom over and over again. Then they take the car out for a spin and rev up the RPM. They do this immediately, while the oil is well below operating temperature and relatively thick. I know of engines ruined in this very manor.

The moral of the story is drive your cars often and do not rev them up until the OIL is fully warmed up. Using an oil that is not as thick during the start up period should minimize the effects of cavitaion. This is why I advocate the 0W-XX oils, they are less thick at start up.

aehaas




Thread: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136204

[tony1234]

Good read and true.

[slidetaker]

Common sense really. Everybody knows the car got to warm up first before driving it hard.

For weekend car, the oil needs to be changed more frequently. Preferably according to season rather than mileage.