check engine light comes on sometimes when i hit v-tec

[johnny5]

basically, what happens is the check engine light comes on sometimes when i hit v-tec. it hasnt happened in a long long time but it came up again yesterday after work. i also notice that it usually happens when i hit v-tec about 5 mins after warming up the engine. when i switch the engine off and turn it back on, the light goes off.

i have done a compression test which was 190-195 for all four. the engine doesnt lag, responsive and pulls well, v-tec kicks in all the time, EXCEPT for the fact that it loses engine oil. i did a full service about a month and a half ago. A couple of weeks back found the oil level was only half full. two seperate mechanics have checked for oil leak and cant find anything.

i was told that when the engine light comes on, i can check what is wrong by doing something to the fuses in the fusebox as there is a code which is shown by how many blinks? how do i go about doing that? i've tried searching for a similiar problem on the forum but couldnt find anything.

on the other hand, some people have told me that the engine light is just an electrical fault and is nothing to worry about.

my car has done about 165,000kms dc2 vti-r 94 model. any known similiar common problems with this model?

PLEEASEE HELLPPP!!!!!

[fabezzz]

Theres a diy thing on clubeg6.com telling you how to pull a error code from your ecu if thats what you mean. ill see if i can find the link for you.

[johnny5]

Thanks Fabezz!

[fabezzz]

1) Start by turning the car off (if it's running), and that the key is out of the ignition, or in the off position.

2) Locate your jumper plug location. It's located on the passenger size kick panel in the vicinity of the ECU.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3225/2803556271_d4ec1b6af5_b.jpg

3) Looking under the dash, locate the green plug holder. Now, pull them out of the plug holder (if your missing the plug holder, the plugs should be tucked away or dangling).

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3216/2803556837_8bfe7f49d7_b.jpg


4) Notice that one is a 3 pin plug (with 2 wires) and one is a 2 pin (with 2 wires). The one you need is the smaller of the 2, the 2 pin version. The other is used for a ECU scanner. Now, you need something to jump the 2 wires. I made a special tool for this job, but a scrap piece of wire (any wire), paper clip, or even one of those metal bread twist ties (stripped at the ends) will work. Just be sure they are in there good.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3031/2803557459_f47eff210f_b.jpg

5) Turn the ignition to the on (not start) position, and watch the check engine light (CEL) blink. If it doesn't blink, you have no stored code or the jumper isn't in there right.


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3255/2804403554_8d324b1538_b.jpg

6) Now you need to record the number(s) coming from the CEL. The codes are read out in forms of blinks. Long blinks are 10, short are 1. Make note of long pauses, this means a break, and is used to seperate different codes. Anyway, for example (BLINK= long, blink= short)....
BLINK-BLINK-blink-blink= Code 22
blink (pause) BLINK-blink-blink= Code 1 and 12

The codes repeat over and over, so double check your numbers a few times. I normally ignore the first pass, and count th second, and verify on the next 2-3 passes.

7) Once your done, you can turn the key off, and then remove the jumper from the plug. If you have the plug holder, put the wires back and your good. To erase the codes from memory, locate the 7.5A fuse in the under hood fuse panel labeled "BACKUP". Once you find it, remove it for 30 seconds or longer and it will erase any stored error codes.

The use of this jumper is also used to set the ignition timing. The only exception is the engine needs to be warm. You turn the car off, install the jumper and then start the engine. Then bust out your timing light and set the timing (be sure to remove the jumper after your done). Anyway, heres the error code list......

0 - Bad ECU (get no CEL)
1 - Oxygen Sensor
3 - MAP Sensor
4 - Crank Angle
5 - MAP Sensor
6 - Coolant Temp
7 - Throttle Angle
8 - TDC Position
9 - Cyl Position
10 - Intake Air Temp
12 - EGR
13 - Atmospheric Pressure
14 - Electronic Air Control
15 - Ignition Output
16- Fuel Injectors
17 - Vehicle Speed Sensor
19 - A/T Lockup Control Solenoid
20 - Electric Load Detector
21 - Vtec Solenoid
22 - Vtec Pressure
23 - Knock Sensor
30 - A/T FI Signal A
41 - Oxygen Sensor Heater
43 - Fuel Supply System
48 - LAF Sensor (d15z1) Oxygen Sensor Heater (others)


That should do it.

[johnny5]

Thanks so much for your help Fabezz!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

last question though, does the engine light have to come on again before i can test to see what is wrong? or am i able to just check it anyway without the check engine light coming back on again?

[Phuong1987]

nah you dont, because the error is stored in the ecu already, find out what the problem is, fix it then rest the ecu.

[johnny5]

yea i just realised after posting it i read it thoroughly again and realised it is stored in the ecu. Thanks again guys for all your help!

[VTECMACHINE]

What fuel are you using?
Could be the knock sensor.

[johnny5]

What fuel are you using?
Could be the knock sensor.

I have been using 98RON since i got the car a couple of months ago. not sure about the previous owners thogh...

[VTECMACHINE]

Could be anything man... how many times is the check engine light flashing. The light will flash a certain number of times depending on the fault.

[02gzm]

What number code did you get? Hitting vtec 5 min after startup with oil pressure problems will definitely throw a vtec solenoid code (code 21). The oil has got to be going somewhere. Leave a piece of cardboard under the engine over night and check it in the morning. It will show you if there is a small oil leak that you may have missed when looking on the road.

It may be a bad connection somewhere too. Does the engine light ever come on when you switch the ignition on but keep the engine off? Check the sensor plug isn't loose at the vtec solenoid. Also read through this (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68997) thread about code 21 and this (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69220) thread about code 22. One of these will be relevant to you once you find the error code.

[johnny5]

What number code did you get? Hitting vtec 5 min after startup with oil pressure problems will definitely throw a vtec solenoid code (code 21). The oil has got to be going somewhere. Leave a piece of cardboard under the engine over night and check it in the morning. It will show you if there is a small oil leak that you may have missed when looking on the road.

It may be a bad connection somewhere too. Does the engine light ever come on when you switch the ignition on but keep the engine off? Check the sensor plug isn't loose at the vtec solenoid. Also read through this (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68997) thread about code 21 and this (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69220) thread about code 22. One of these will be relevant to you once you find the error code.




The oil has got to be going somewhere. Leave a piece of cardboard under the engine over night and check it in the morning. It will show you if there is a small oil leak that you may have missed when looking on the road.

yes i just noticed last night that my garage has oil leak spots. i'm gonna have to check and see exactly where the oil leak is.



What number code did you get? Hitting vtec 5 min after startup with oil pressure problems will definitely throw a vtec solenoid code (code 21).

i tried getting a code last night but it was dark by the time i got home from work and i couldnt see the switches and plugs properly. will try again later to see what code i get.



It may be a bad connection somewhere too. Does the engine light ever come on when you switch the ignition on but keep the engine off? Check the sensor plug isn't loose at the vtec solenoid.

No. The CEL never comes on when i switch the ignition on. Only when i hit v-tec and again, it doesnt happen all the time, about 4 times now since i've had the car for about 2 1/2 months now. I notice it happens only when i hit v-tec on 1st or 2nd gear. NOOB question but where is the vtec solenoid located??

Again, THANKS so much for all your feedback and input. Will update you guys once i check everything you guys have suggested!

[OMG.JAI xD]

vtec solenoid.
right next to the dizzy on the gearbox side of the engine.
gold coloured cylindrical shaped device with a couple of wires coming out of it.
part of the head.
to be more detailed. its on the exhaust side of the head, hence why i said right next to the dizzy. since the dizzy runs off the intake side.
=]
(dw i didnt know what it looked like either. i mean. who cares. all you need is the boooBAAAAA =] )

[diffuzn]

there are pics of what the solenoid looks like in diy threads about creating vtec lights etc

[02gzm]

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/diy/pgmfi/vts/PGMFI-vts-loc.jpg

[johnny5]

btw, it was a bitch finding the switch as mine is the audm and the picture shown was a usdm honda. lol, my housemate who knows shit about cars was the one who pointed it out to me and finally found it! IT IS LOCATED ON THE PASSENGER'S SIDE AT THE DOOR for those of you who may have the same problem locating it. LOL!

i just checked it out. ENGINE CODE 3. map sensor. also, i have a vafc which the vtec has been set to kick in at 6000 not the standard 5500. is this the problem? have i finally solved the problem??!?? do i need to retune it? reset it? if yes how? i checked the vtec solenoid and everything seems to be connected properly. whats the next step??!??

[Phuong1987]

Are you sure its 3 or 21?

Double check it buddy,
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67230
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68997

[02gzm]

I think you may be confused.

As phuong1987 pointed out,
Here's what code 3 (MAP) looks like - 3 fast
http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-3.gif

And here's what code 21 (VTS) looks like - 2 slow, 1 fast
http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-21.gif


When the VTS is energised by the ECU it allows pressurised oil to pass ( via a valve and filter ) to the valve train locking pins that engage VTEC. The ECU monitors the VTS to ensure it is there and connected.

Like i said earlier it's a oil pressure problem. What type of oil is being used? The leak you have is contributing to the problem but you may have another oil pressure problem somewhere too.

[johnny5]

I think you may be confused.

As phuong1987 pointed out,
Here's what code 3 (MAP) looks like - 3 fast
http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-3.gif

And here's what code 21 (VTS) looks like - 2 slow, 1 fast
http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-21.gif



Like i said earlier it's a oil pressure problem. What type of oil is being used? The leak you have is contributing to the problem but you may have another oil pressure problem somewhere too.

its the map sensor. definitely a code 3. i'm using semi-synthetic oil at the moment. should be changing it to full synthetic soon. i'll be changing my exhaust system soon and getting another mechanic to take a closer look at the problem. would the vafc have anything to do with it?

[Phuong1987]

If your really sure that its the map sensor, get a new 1 and test it out or go to the wreckers and get one, most honda motor uses the same map sensor

[02gzm]

It may sound odd but clean the terminals of your dizzy. My car tripped the MAP sensor code a few times with my old leads that kept coming loose. And vtec = high rpm, so it could be a slight miss in the ignition that causes it to not spark occasionally.

[johnny5]

changed the map sensor over the weekend. tested the car a few times and CEL DOES NOT come on anymore *fingers crossed*

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP GUYS!