Radiator

[traumatized]

hey all,

i open my hood today to find that i have coolant everywhere in my engine bay and the reserve tank is empty.. i thought it may have been my radiator cap but i just replaced that 3months ago. on closer inspection it was a small hair line crack near the cap.

my question is can this crack be fixed? or should i replace it? if i do need to replace it do i go for a genuine honda radiator? or a non genuine? or even a high performance radiator?

how much am i looking to buy for those options?

thanks everyone.

[Type R Positive]

Repair it mate, it is a simple job. Just braze it up (oxy welding) It will take you under a minute.

[ECU-MAN]

sounds like you got a plastic radiator, there prone to cracking the top tank, if it is plastic you cant braze it up or glue it up, you dont need to change the entire radiator either, take it to a radiator place and they will remove your radiator and clean it and replace the top tank and o ring, non genuine tanks are ok, you should get change from $200 on this Job. mkae sure they use Honda Collant when they refill it.

[FR33K]

ive seen "all metal" radiators on ebay.. duno if theres any available..depending on wat car you got..
and i had that problem too.. i just replaced the top tank..

[traumatized]

I have a Integra VtiR 94.. sorry i didn't state that eariler... so it can be repaired? sweet...

[Type R Positive]

I have a Integra VtiR 94.. sorry i didn't state that eariler... so it can be repaired? sweet...
is it metel or plastic end tanks? If it is plastic, and you have the spare cash, now might be an ideal time to upgrade. You will have to spend the money anyway.

[traumatized]

is it metel or plastic end tanks? If it is plastic, and you have the spare cash, now might be an ideal time to upgrade. You will have to spend the money anyway.


when you say upgrade? waht do you recommend? how much roughly? i dont know if its metal or not tp be honest with you it seems to be the brown plastic. its just a genuine honda radiator.

[Type R Positive]

I thinks an Aluminium radiator would suffice, Fluidyne in USA makes a good one. You should be able to get it sent to Australia for under $600. These are all aluminium and high quality. I had one on my DC2 type R and recommend them. This Might be cheaper than going OEM replacement (you only need an end tank). These are a straight fit.

www.streetrays.com sends to Australia and you could have one of these Fluidyne aluminium radiators for $385USD + about $90USD for shipping. This is about $650AUD. They also have C&R racing aluminium radiators (big name for turbo drag Honda's) but they are about $500USD.

[ECU-MAN]

94 teg has plastic end tanks, erplace top tank and all will be good for another 5 to 7 years.

[Rufes1]

I agree with ECU MAN, there's no point upgrading your radiator when your stock one is doing a perfect job, Just get your current one repaired and spend the other money elsewhere.

Side note; ECUMAN why do you say make sure they use genuine honda coolant? I have always used nulon and havent had a problem, no leaks and pump is perfect?

[Type R Positive]

nothing wrong with :honda: oem :thumbsup:

[Type R Positive]

I agree with ECU MAN, there's no point upgrading your radiator when your stock one is doing a perfect job, Just get your current one repaired and spend the other money elsewhere.

Side note; ECUMAN why do you say make sure they use genuine honda coolant? I have always used nulon and havent had a problem, no leaks and pump is perfect?
nulon is crap. eeeeeeeeewwww green dye.

[Rufes1]

In comparision to what? Have you got facts to back up your statement?

I have never had a problem with it

[ECU-MAN]

I agree with ECU MAN, there's no point upgrading your radiator when your stock one is doing a perfect job, Just get your current one repaired and spend the other money elsewhere.

Side note; ECUMAN why do you say make sure they use genuine honda coolant? I have always used nulon and havent had a problem, no leaks and pump is perfect?


Honda coolant is wild, when ever a car has alwyas had honda coolant, water pumps last well into the 150000 + kms and radiators stay clean. thermostarts last ages. I have no Idea how good or bad nulon is But I never bother putting anything else in Hondas.

[Rufes1]

Mmmm, If you flush your system often. Every 20k, its barely even dirty and the difference between genuine or not would not be as evident as if you dragged out the coolant to its max life specifications..

Ive never tried genuine honda, ill give it ago next change.

cheers

[ECU-MAN]

I only change the coolant every 40 000kms on hondas, the coolant coming out is a green as the coolant going in :)

[Rufes1]

Yeh I overservice mine, oh well

[Redteg]

A couple of years back my top tank cracked, and I paid $300 for it to be replaced, as well as the radiator to be serviced and all hoses/clamps replaced. The tank itself cost around $100 from memory.

A month or so ago my bottom tank cracked so I just replaced the entire radiator for $450. I didn't bother shopping around, so you may be able to get a radiator fitted for even cheaper.

[traumatized]

A couple of years back my top tank cracked, and I paid $300 for it to be replaced, as well as the radiator to be serviced and all hoses/clamps replaced. The tank itself cost around $100 from memory.

A month or so ago my bottom tank cracked so I just replaced the entire radiator for $450. I didn't bother shopping around, so you may be able to get a radiator fitted for even cheaper.


where did you get your radiator fitted as i'm also in sydney.. what it a genuine honda radiator? or aftermarket?

[smoknhothonda]

While the topic is on Radiators, has anyone here used a mugen/spoon sports radiator cap?

I understand they hold more presure then an OEM cap, but does this put extra pressure on the actual radiator itself casing it to crack?

[ECU-MAN]

While the topic is on Radiators, has anyone here used a mugen/spoon sports radiator cap?

I understand they hold more presure then an OEM cap, but does this put extra pressure on the actual radiator itself casing it to crack?
more pressure = more stress

[Redteg]

Tony Radiator Specialist at Yennora, 9681-2583. Aftermarket radiator. Looks identical to the Honda one though. I just gotta get the original stickers for the top tank and it'll look like it was always in there.

I never ever take my car to just any mechanic because more often than not something ends up being dirtied or messed up some way or another by some boob. When I went to get the radiator checked out Tony spent an hour or so to take the radiator out and test it, before telling me of my options and how much they would all cost. He also found out why the bottom mount had cracked the way it had (pressure applied to the auto trans cooler lines). When I did take it to be replaced he was done in around 2 hours, including removal, fitting and testing of the cooling system, and he allowed me to help him out so that everything went in the way I wanted it to. (I had time to clean up a bit more of the engine bay with all the cooling stuff out of the way too).

Ye im picky. Each bracket and mount has different bolts which hold them.

When I had my top tank replaced the machanics managed to scratch my cam cover, intake manifold, and radiator support. Idiots.

I have a Spoon radiator cap but it's sitting on my shelf, I'm just worried that a higher pressure cap will hasten the development of leaks and cracks and such, which I don't need.

[traumatized]

does anyone know where to get performance radiators here in aus? syd? and how much they cost supply and fitted if possible....

[traumatized]

what is the difference in a genuine honda radiator and a aftermarket radiator?

also would you go for a reconditioned genuine honda radiator or a brand new aftermarket radiator?

[type one]

i would sugest the answer to this is coolign ability... but i also think this is negligible when compared to a fluidyne or the like...

oem unless your car is a track bitch.

[traumatized]

i would sugest the answer to this is coolign ability... but i also think this is negligible when compared to a fluidyne or the like...

oem unless your car is a track bitch.


but what is the difference.. i mean in a standard aftermarket radiator and a stand honda radiator?

also would you go for a reconditioned honda radiator or a brand new aftermarket stock radiator? if you were going to replace the existing damaged radiator?

[type one]

if i was going to spend the cash anyway and get it repaired i would just get a new one... but that's just me.

[Type R Positive]

aftermarket radiators generally have better heat transfer as well as the ability to hold alot more fluid (It is harder to boil say 2 litres of water compared to 1). Honda OEM very good aluminium. better than copper.

[Type R Positive]

if i was going to spend the cash anyway and get it repaired i would just get a new one... but that's just me. :thumbsup:

[traumatized]

:thumbsup:


well to be honest with you these are my options...

1. get a reconditioned oem honda radiator and keep my cracked one for 200bux

2. get an aftermarket radiator i beileive its stock for 400bux and keep my cracked one

3. get the top tank replaced and get my current radiator serviced not sure how much but i'm scared somethign else may crack in the radiator later..

i'm not sure which opion i should take

[type one]

i will take radiators for $1000 Johnny...

what is an "aftermarket radiator for $400?"

we have a winner!!...

[traumatized]

i will take radiators for $1000 Johnny...

what is an "aftermarket radiator for $400?"

we have a winner!!...


it basically not oem honda, its made by another company just like the geniune one but not honda.. so yeah i'm not sure if its as good as a honda radiator

[ECU-MAN]

after market radiators are ait, your cheapest options is to have the top tank replaced as you know but if your worried, ask the guys at the radiator shop to check the coils, they should be alumminium and they tend not to give much trouble. if your radiator is shagged the guy doing the job should be able to pick it up and recommend replacement. what year was your car again.?

[Type R Positive]

All this talk, I would have had a new one in by now :)

[BF]

New one, then you dont have to worry about it for some time and you have warrenty =P

[੮®ப]

just go to the wrekers man.. u can ussually find certain car parts that havnt been touched as a result of an accident for pretty cheap! if that doesn't work then i would get a new one.

[traumatized]

i got one put in today by hanny's... also change my themostat just incase it was stuffed or something...

oh my car is a 94 model vtir

[Type R Positive]

Great to hear. What radiator did you end up getting? OEM or aftermarket?

[traumatized]

Great to hear. What radiator did you end up getting? OEM or aftermarket?


OEM.. thought it doesnt look like my old one.. my old one had a sticker that said Aluminium, Showa.. or something like that.. and the radiator was kinder silver in colour..


the one that was put in was all black... do you know why?

don't tell me i got jipped...

[Type R Positive]

An easy way to tell is scrape some of the black paint off one of the fins. If it is aluminium, you are laughing. If it is copper, I would take it back and kick some ass. It sounds like you got a recon unit, as they usually paint them black so it looks new and absorbs heat. I could be wrong.

[traumatized]

An easy way to tell is scrape some of the black paint off one of the fins. If it is aluminium, you are laughing. If it is copper, I would take it back and kick some ass. It sounds like you got a recon unit, as they usually paint them black so it looks new and absorbs heat. I could be wrong.

yeah it was a recon radiator, how can u tell if its copper or aluminium? it has 2years waranty on it so i didnt fuss over it too much and i needed one badly, dont know how much damage i was casuing my engine with that crack

[JSL]

copper is bronze-ish colour and aluminium is silver colour..

[traumatized]

copper is bronze-ish colour and aluminium is silver colour..


so i just scrape the paint to check out what colour it is aye?