Throttle Bodies from the US - Fitment

[dsp26]

Hi all,

just a quick question, got mine today and noticed the orientation of the butterfly actuator for the cable is different obviously because thier LHD and their cable doesn't go around in a gay circle near the front rad support like ours do

Do/can you:

- remove it and just rotate it
OR
- remove your stock one and put that on?

Also with the TPS.. i obviously need to calibrate through data log or voltage testing but can i just mark my TB according to the stock one and hope for the best and align it the same way on the new one?


In case anyones interested also.. managed to score a 68mm tapered to 65mm TB for ~AU$145 delivered...

[vinnY]

i'm sure you can just move the cable into another orientation
thats what most people do while wire tucking

with the tps, afaik all tb's are different
you just have to line it up with a multimeter(lucky for me, my vafc2 shows the voltage :D)

[dsp26]

i'm sure you can just move the cable into another orientation
thats what most people do while wire tucking

with the tps, afaik all tb's are different
you just have to line it up with a multimeter(lucky for me, my vafc2 shows the voltage :D)

as for moving the cable.. i meant the metal throttle cable.. i can't possibly relocate that anywhere else can I?


***EDIT***
should be 0.50v on closed when set to ign.... anyone care to confirm for me?


or 0.66k ohm between 2 of the 3 wires if i set it while not on the car?

[vinnY]

As for calibrating your TPS:
1.)You will need a volt meter set to read 12 volts.
2.)Loosen the screws holding the TPS to the throttle body enough to rotate the sensor a bit.
3.)Insert the probes of your voltmeter into the two outer most wires leading to the TPS. (Typically red/blk on one side, and black on the other) Ignore the center wire.
4.)With the ignition on, but the engine not running you should read less than 1 volt with the throttle shut. Rotate the sensor until your volt meter reads .49 volts.
5.) Once you read .49 volts tighten the screws holding the TPS to the throttle body.
6.)Voltage should go from .49 volts up to approximately 4.8v volts at wide open.
7.)Once you have these readings your TPS is properly calibrated.

i'm sure you can re-route that throttle cable another way

[fatboyz39]

Hi all,

just a quick question, got mine today and noticed the orientation of the butterfly actuator for the cable is different obviously because thier LHD and their cable doesn't go around in a gay circle near the front rad support like ours do

Do/can you:

- remove it and just rotate it
OR
- remove your stock one and put that on?

Also with the TPS.. i obviously need to calibrate through data log or voltage testing but can i just mark my TB according to the stock one and hope for the best and align it the same way on the new one?


In case anyones interested also.. managed to score a 68mm tapered to 65mm TB for ~AU$145 delivered...

good price....any links?

The throttle body you describe sounds like its for a B18c2. They run the snail manifold and the cable sit different to the ITR or b16a manifold.

[dsp26]

^^^damn yeah i did get the B18c2 one only because that was the one that came with the block off plate for underneath which i needed as i've done the coolant bypass mod.

The B18c5/7 one came with a built-in iacv/fitv whichever it is that sits at the bottom.

it's still usable though right? can i just rotate it or remove the spring/actuator combo from my stocker?

The B18c5/7 one works out to be around ~AU$160

[fatboyz39]

Dont know whether it works. It is design for teh snail manifold.

[dsp26]

Dont know whether it works. It is design for teh snail manifold.

gonna have a looksie now...

watch i'll make it work and we can all save in future if the snail manifold one is always cheaper :p

[vinnY]

for $15 i'd rather have it bolt on :p

[dsp26]

yeah true lol.

identified 2 fixable issues:

- must use B16/B18c7 butterfly actuator
AND
- insert a plastic vac line plug into the top hole where the map sensor vac hose plugs into. seems the b18c2 tb has a seperate bolt on unit which is just gay

the actuator springs are different to the B18c2, can use the b16 actuator on this unit however due to the spring lock location it'll be offset just under 2cm in rotation therefore accel cable will feel a tad bit stiffer due to resulting increased spring tension... which means i can no longer sell my b16a tb after lol.. not worth the saving.

meh stupid tight-arse me

[fatboyz39]

just sell it and get a proper one

[dsp26]

just sell it and get a proper one

meh.. got my prices wrong.. i actually paid:

US$99 + US$45 shipping = AU$180


Type R one is US$139 + US$45 shipping = AU$230

$50 price difference and i can make it work anyway..

question though jimmy...

can I tap the MAP sensor vacuum from anywhere? maybe T off another vac line?

coz i'm just gonna block that hole at the top


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/dsp26/Intake/DSC03575.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/dsp26/Intake/DSC03576.jpg

[dsp26]

In the first pic it's got this o-ringed area at the top that i'm supposed to bolt something onto... i've just checked a few B16a/b b18c1/2/5/7 throttle bodies and they all have it... is there supposed to be a bracket that fit on that?

afaik the map sensor vac line goes there on the stocker where the plug is built-in?? wtf??

***EDIT***
ok i get it now.. further research reveals that i have to mount and relocate the map sensor onto the throttle body....

http://www.surplusparts.com/partimages/ebay/AS62.jpg

[dsp26]

ok... ended up getting another TB.. a type r one coz the dc2/vtir one wouldn't work properly so up for sale soon.

anyways... my new one doesn't come with an idle screw so it just shuts off when cold.


my question is, is it adequate for me to adjust the rotor/butterfly screw to get the car to idle say at 1500rpm and adjust the TPS accordingly?

Is this even common practice if the idle screw was inadequate or is this something that SHOULD/COULD be fixed with tuning?

[vinnY]

idle screw from your stock tb not gonna fit it?

[dsp26]

nope... its sealed on TB.. hasn't been tapped :/

i wouldn't even have a clue how to get that done....

[dsp26]

ok.. just ran/idled it again at work carpark.

doesn't die straight away now.. ecu probably getting used to it.

but when it reaches temp it sits perfectly at 1000rpm without hunting.. wtf?

so.. is there a seperate idle tune on the ecu from cold/warm or this is the FITV doing it's job?

[fatboyz39]

looks liek you got like a S2000 one where there is no idle screw.

[dsp26]

^^yeah nuts.

oh well was doing research last night on how they do it on ITBs without IACV and idle screw and it looks like my only options are:

- Adjust throttle plate via rotor screw : consequence of this is the bore and screw eventually wear because of the resistance cause by partial open and engine sucking

- New ECU with better IDLE resolution

do you think this is something fixable on crome jimmy?

[Benson]

did you get the t/b to work yet?

You shouldnt have any issue when you install a new t/b. Should idle the same as the stock one.

I think there could be something wrong with the t/b

[90LAN]

with the amount of amoney spent so far u could got a spoon tb
with oem fitment and sensors
and absolutely no problems

- Adjust throttle plate via rotor screw : consequence of this is the bore and screw eventually wear because of the resistance cause by partial open and engine sucking

i would do this 1st

[dsp26]

^^thanks.

couldn't get the spoon though coz its 70mm tapered to 62mm or 63mm but my aebs manifold is 65mm.

Actually not that i couldn't, was one of those "may as well have" bore matched only because the TBs I was looking into were tapered.

I've set my dizzy timing back to 18* which noticably looses me some peak because of these:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99564

but it's stabilised the idle a tad plus i've introduced a vacuum leak for now by puncturing a hole into one of my vacuum caps as a temporary process.

The DC2 TB was such a bad purchase also despite trying to switch the spring and rotor from the B16a only to discover as well that the accel cable couldn't open the TB all the way at WOT. Just gonna put it up for sale soon at an obvious loss but thats what i get for not doing it right the first time and trying to save money :/

[dsp26]

did you get the t/b to work yet?

You shouldnt have any issue when you install a new t/b. Should idle the same as the stock one.

I think there could be something wrong with the t/b

yeah got it all working sweet... feels soooo good in the low/midrange. But remember my car didn't idle to begin with on the oem tb/im anyway... i'll show it to you next wsid day.

Its such a weird setup, felt so restricted on the oem tb/im and i thought it was my exhaust that was the issue... i was getting like +3wkw more peak and -1wkw everywhere else at 14* dizzy timing versus the absolute opposite with it set at 18* dizzy timing. With the bigger tb/im now on its really woken up the entire rev range so the incurred losses with 18* timing isn't noticable anymore. I'll get it dyno'd again soon. to see the absolute difference on paper :)

[90LAN]

actually it tapers down to about 65/66 mm

[dsp26]

damn.. why do i trust honda-tech info.. oh wells lol

[vinnY]

so they tb works good hey ron?
looks like i better install mine asap along with my cams and feel the difference myself

[dsp26]

so they tb works good hey ron?
looks like i better install mine asap along with my cams and feel the difference myself

i'm not exaggerating vinny... huge difference even on its own before i installed intake manifold :thumbsup::thumbsup: the way to describe it would be.. it doesn't feel like a 1.6l in low/mid range anymore

[fatboyz39]

i'm not exaggerating vinny... huge difference even on its own before i installed intake manifold :thumbsup::thumbsup: the way to describe it would be.. it doesn't feel like a 1.6l in low/mid range anymore


wow sounds like a worthy mod for b16a....

[dsp26]

In case anyone stumbles on this thread here are some facts about B18c1/B18c2/DC2vtir Throttle Bodies versus other B-series

Will not fit any other B-Series because:
- Throttle Rotor and cable configuration is different
- Swapping rotors still doesn't work-->
- cable setup of B16/B18c5/7 can't open throttle plate all the way
- spring/tensioner hook-up point to rotor is different and you loose tension
- swapping the spring/tensioner also won't work because of the amount of times it has to wind... the B16/B18c5/7 springs bind if you try to compensate for the above issue