EM1 sway bar install

[EK1.6LCIV]

Just got myself an EM1 sway bar (cheers Leighton :))

Just wanting to know the torque settings for the end links and bushing brackets, cheers, should have some pics of it installed soon, rep points to all good advice +1 :D:thumbsup::cool: :honda:

Picture for those who want to post the settings on it :)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3058/2909187108_a6743a8b29_o.jpg


Cheers,

Ryan

[JasonGilholme]

good advice: grease the bushings that go around the bar. no squeeky squeeky :thumbsup:

now rep me baby! ;)

[ek4-guy]

Doesn't the threaded section have a part to put an allen key into?



*Edit* my ek4 end links have a hole for an allen key to hold the threaded section from turning while you tighten the nut.

[EK1.6LCIV]

good advice: grease the bushings that go around the bar. no squeeky squeeky :thumbsup:

now rep me baby! ;)

gave you rep not too long ago, won't let me until I "spread it around more" lol

[EK1.6LCIV]

Doesn't the threaded section have a part to put an allen key into?

you've lost me, lol, please tell me more :D

[ek4-guy]

edited previous post

If you have the allen key setup you have to tighten it with a spanner so torque is not an issue. Just tighten them up till they are good and tight if this is the case.

[EK1.6LCIV]

i can still set them to a torque, lol

[ek4-guy]

even if you tightend them with a spanner and then checked the torque with a torque wrench how could you be sure of the torque if you don't have an allen key holding the thread still

[JasonGilholme]

i think i understand what darryl is saying.

if you put a torque wrench on one side and hold the other side with an allen key to get the torque reading you will get different torque measurements depending on how much pressure you apply to the allen key with your hand.

is this right darryl??

[tank]

Torque setting for 'D' bracket bolts 20 lbf-ft.

Torque setting for end-link nut 22 lbf-ft.

[ek4-guy]

On my car you have to insert an allen key into the end of the thread that goes through the lca. So first you put the nut onto the thread then insert the allen key into the end of thread to stop the thread turning while you tighten.

As you have an allen key sticking out the end of the thread it can only be tightend with a spanner.

After you tighten the nut you could remove the allen key and put a socket over the nut to check the torque but as you check you can't be sure the thread is not turning.

The allen key goes in the same way it does on the top of the oem shock and once the allen key is sticking out the end of the thread you cant get a socket with a torque wrench attached over it.

[EK1.6LCIV]

cheers for that see how we go on the weekend mate :)

PQ points left, wish it'd let me give you one as well Jase

[ek4-guy]

PQ points left, wish it'd let me give you one as well Jase


I can thoe :D


OH I nearly forgot just adding to Jason's post use rubber grease as petroleum based grease can effect the rubber

[beeza]

http://www.speed-society.com/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=242651&sid=0574d97d0c2936ace957345c685ba914

[SiReal]

just to let you know the subframe doesnt have pre-welded nuts behind. they are just holes (i also had a green ej8 and tried to put a ek4 RSB). so go into bunnings and get some nuts and possibly some new bolts which are high tensile. strong!!!

[DEMON83]

tight as u can dude, drive for about 1- hours and re tighten

easy as!

[55EXX]

and re tension if after ~500kms driving

[EK1.6LCIV]

just to let you know the subframe doesnt have pre-welded nuts behind. they are just holes (i also had a green ej8 and tried to put a ek4 RSB). so go into bunnings and get some nuts and possibly some new bolts which are high tensile. strong!!!

Yea, just found this out at the dealer, he's like you need the subframe of a VTi-R (330 weld on bit, lol) so ASR brace is what Im looking at now lol

[EK1.6LCIV]

just to let you know the subframe doesnt have pre-welded nuts behind. they are just holes (i also had a green ej8 and tried to put a ek4 RSB). so go into bunnings and get some nuts and possibly some new bolts which are high tensile. strong!!!

Id love to talk more about ur idea, you have msn?

[vinnY]

just head into bunnings/repco/supercheapauto/autobarn and grab some m8 or m10 if the holes allow it bolts, probably need about 20mm or so
probably a good idea to grab some flanged ones too

[EK1.6LCIV]

been expirementing with a few things on Sat, but I'm after something to distributed the load better on the subframe, so far my most practical option is the ASR brace so thats on the cards next month, now to find someone with one...

[EK1.6LCIV]

update

I ended up getting OEM Honda EM1 mounting brackets (they are present on all EM1/EK4s stock on the subframe whereas EJ8s have two black holes) for the EJ8, all I need to do is fit them up and make up a inside bracket, everything looks a go, pics will be up soon

[EK1.6LCIV]

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF3627.jpg

wouldve been great with the right exhaust system, since I got it done yrs ago without the sway bar on there they didn't take that into account and as such I had to take it off as the top of the endlink thread was scrapping the exhaust line....

[SiReal]

please give reviews on after. i'm curioius to know if it will make much difference at all.

[EK1.6LCIV]

it handles better in corners for the 20mins I tested it out, felt flatter with less play, had to remove it tho as you can see in the pic the exhaust side endlink is too close to the exhaust line and the thread on the top of it was scratching into the line... so I have to find a shop to dish up a small section to the muffler to clear it :) But I'm considering running a Spoon or Cusco brace

On the weekend the exhaust will be rectified, just going to cut a new section and bend into it, pics will follow.

Is a good point to raise tho in regards to those who may have fitted an exhaust system without the sway being present, I mean I good half and inch to the left and it wouldnt of been a problem lol

[EK1.6LCIV]

the part numbers for the Honda EM1/EK4 brackets are: 52317-S04-000

the bolts used to hold them into place: Champion High Tensile 5/16" x 1-1/2" UNC

washers on the inside of the subframe and outside of the brackets: Champion A316 Stainless Steel 10mm Flat washers x4

[dahon]

for the brackets that attach to the subframe i did the screws the other ways.. lolz
threads pointing inwards (the heads to the back) - yes it was a bitch to tighten but all good... (lcas dont play THAT much i dont think)
ek1 u like the dynamics now? thicker sway u need more reinforcement (asr)
this is on a ek1 sedan btw...
im pretty sure you dont even need to jack her up... u only to jack her up if you're going to replace the lcas..
to SiReal... definately makes a difference for my car (rectifies the intense understeer in even normal cornering)

[EK1.6LCIV]

You do need to jack it up if you want any chance in hell of tightening the lca on the exhaust side with a torque wrench, lol. I might even opt to use ASR reinforcement behind the sub frame as a mate doesn't need the two pieces the ASR kit come with, but ether way this system is by far the cheapest and most effective I've come across so far

after the exhaust is fixed in the rear it'll be back on, may do some before and after pics around corners as some kind of study :)

[dahon]

yd u remove/retighten the lca bolt?

[EK1.6LCIV]

didnt remove lca to shock bolt, you have to tighten up the end linkj bolt onto the lca, and retorque it :)

as you can see in the pic where I had to put a coat of paint where it rubbed :(, sat we'll re-route the exhaust line away from the endlink path, lol :)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3289/3008152589_d30390a013_o.jpg

[dahon]

ahh kz ic... lolz i didnt jack myn up wen i chucked the sway on.. hehehe
tell us how sat goes aye :thumbsup:

[omgzilla]

Whiteline make a tie bar that supposedly eliminates the tear-out issue with the tie-bar mounting plates. Just another option than the ASR.

Seen at the bottom of the page here: http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/AS_0308_susp_2.htm

I do believe they make a similar brace (same effect as the tie bar really) but i'm yet to get pictures of one. Pretty sure bobby had one for sale a while ago...

[EK1.6LCIV]

yea with the std sway bar of 13mm it won't tear out, anything larger and you should, but in retrospec you shouldnt need anything larger, hell half of the historic race cars I know don't run anything above 10-12mm

[omgzilla]

They're using a 22mm RSW with that tie-bar and mount/brace combo. Interesting...

[EK1.6LCIV]

Pics of early Saturday morning at the exhaust shop :) very good work for the money, cleared fine, sounds a lil better

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF3632.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF3634-1.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF3654.jpg

drives great, very nice indeed :)

[innozent]

ryan can u clean the endlinks bit and let me see it clearly

[EK1.6LCIV]

all it has is a thread at ethier end but top bit has a rubber gasket and pivot head, hope that helps, what are u after?

[innozent]

does it neccessarily to bolt to a rubber gasket, becasue mine dont

[EK1.6LCIV]

I just got this off of an EM1, the endlinks have the rubber gasket over the pivot joint for a reason (so no dust/dirt can mess with the movement) they come as one piece

[innozent]

does anyone know if a EK9 rearsway bar setup would include the rubber gast\ket too?

[EK1.6LCIV]

It does, as should all, it would be a matter of time before the dirt and grit on the roads would compensate the movement and fail at that point

have a look at JDMConcepts pic on the forsale area of the EK9 sway bar kit, you can see it :)

[dahon]

ask bowzer at modproject he sells them endlinks pretty cheap...
im pretty sure them endlinks all have that rubber cover to cover up the ball joint... where the rivets are though (the TOP of the endlink, ie where the sway meets the endlink) there should be a plastic shield to protect riveted part...
ek1s endlinks look like mine...

[EK1.6LCIV]

yea, mine are covered, I can only image the ek9 would have thicker endlinks and a difference thread on the top