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you will probably need to rebuy all the parts you sold...
but maybe try bbk to start
The DC2R chassis is much better if your talking about driving at limits.
Why would you part out if you were gonna buy the same car again. Dumb move.
This is where Honda/most manufactures are failing, all the newer cars they are making turning out to be POS compared to their older counterparts.
How long is one gonna be a driving a car made in the 90's.
Aren't they already nearly same same 0-100KM?
Better driver will win.
Stock vs Stock.
If your chasing power from your K20, cheapest option that will net the acceleration best gains K24 bottom.
remove weight from car
start with full interior strip
Bro they are same in a straight line.
I just googled to confirm they are coming back around the same same times 0-100 on nearly every forum and site.
I have driven both, they have same same straight line guts. Infact dc2r, dc5r, dc5s, fn2r will be very similar to each other in straight line. I think slightly faster is EP3R and S2k.
Maybe if you learn to shift faster or launch just outside vtec range you can beat him. Or the other option is buy a falcon/commodore if your after straightline speed.
I have a dirty shift secret for 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd.
Dont let go of the accelerator.
Did I offend you? oO
No offense intended mate. Just being honest. Even the Honda record times for dc2r and fn2r for 0-100KM is at a point where the better driver is gonna win.
Sure the dc2r has a greater power to weight ratio. but at that 0-100KM its not enfu to matter soo much. Its the 100-200 where the dc2r is gonna pull away. You doing 200KM on public road?
Like lilthug said loose weight. About 250KG is what you need to shed.
Or more power, K24 bottom.
I personally thing why ur losing is cos you have a 6 speed and he has a 5 speed. You have to shift one extra time than he does.
Btw I have only never lost to one DC2R in the subbie.
I was close to stock too. He had a turbo.