GruppeM intake for FD2 review/info

hey guys,

This is the most expensive intake on the market (i think). It does not fit the FD1/2 civic that we have, only for the FD2R (maybe Mugen RR?). The piping on the FD2 is 2" and the FD2R is 3". As i wanted this intake because of the carbon fiber also some performance, i bought it (from Xposed trader) being the 1st buyer i got some discount and became the guinea pig. Due to the problem of the smaller piping on the FD2 as i found out when i tried to fit it myself i got a custom pipe made up from Embleton Engineering (Myaree). I was advised to go there because Wayne was a very good TIG welder.

When installing the GruppeM intake i found that the sensor wouldn't fit anywhere so i had to get it put back on. Thanks for the confirmation on the MAF sensor by the posts in the other thread. I did put the sensor back on the piping when it was made. You can see from the pictures below its next to the battery on the underside of the piping.

The CEL light came up the next day i started driving, to try solve this i reset the ECU by taking the positive clamp on the battery off for about 5-10mins. It has been 2 days and still no CEL light so going good :D

Performance wise, i feel that it is more responsive from 2000/2500rpm - 4000rpm. The sound starts from 2500rpm and exponentially increases till 7000rpm. Sounds like i have a 3" exhaust in my engine haha. I don't know how much power it had given me but not alot. From the SG forums they said about 5-6hp lol so power to money ratio is very bad.
Injen CAI is apparently the best intake for how much it costs.

There is a problem with the intake. It is a bit loose and wobbles. This is due to the adapter being smaller than the big carbon thing that holds the filter. I've tried tightening it up as much as possible but still loose. So i put double sided tape on the underside of the scoop (the one with GruppeM label) stuck it to the cowl. It is still a bit loose but alot less instead of before moving around very easily. I want to put foam under the clamp so it will even out the size difference.

The instruction says that on a rainy day your suppose to cover up the inlet scoop and also while you wash your car. I can see this being a problem in winter.... the dreadful hydrolock.

thanks for reading. if i have made any mistakes please tell me and i will fix it up, or if you have more information on this intake i will add it on.

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/5868/p1020587n.jpg
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/4839/p1020583q.jpg
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/8739/p1020589l.jpg
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/7913/p1020588.jpg
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/18/p1020593.jpg

HOLY COW!!!!!!!!

how much did that take you!!!

timmy, consider this

only for FD2 i think, and it costs a SHIT LOAD

I gotta hand it to you buddy, at least you are persistent
here's my retrofit to my FN2
I used a MAF adapter and made it fit the standard intake tubing
moved stuff around the engine bay to get it to fit
and it is gloriously loud!

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/4002/dscn1280ed1.jpg

shit damn, u have a pretty engine bay, how much kw are u pulling?

nice write up liquid. should move this to the review section :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by liquid23

The CEL light came up the next day i started driving, to try solve this i reset the ECU by taking the positive clamp on the battery off for about 5-10mins.

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The MAF sensor needs to be placed in straight airflow to perform properly.
The problem with these kind of aftermarket intake is they don't bother putting proper baffles in the MAF mount to direct airflow. So the air swirls around and enters the sensor with turbulence. This will occasionally throw a CEL light, I'm not sure what affect it has to power though, but my guess is, it can't be good.

are you suppose to cover up the hole in the intake? where you have your insulation tubing going down. what is that hole for anyway? lol

i wanted to just chop off the original pipe where the sensor is and then stick it to the new pipe but the guy said it would look ugly and so did i. so we just made a new placement for it.

bad news.. CEL light came on again. tried to fiddle around with sensor and disconnect battery for another 30mins. after a few starts came on again..
ARGHHHHH!!!!!

what do i do now? :confused: need to fix this thing

Quote:

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Originally Posted by liquid23

bad news.. CEL light came on again. tried to fiddle around with sensor and disconnect battery for another 30mins. after a few starts came on again..
ARGHHHHH!!!!!

what do i do now? :confused: need to fix this thing

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I thought that might happen :(
at the very least the MAF has to be mounted dead straight on same diameter piping.
If you can, you need to reuse the original mount, even then its no guarantee
the MAF is very very sensitive

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/HPIM0554.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/HPIM0561.jpg

hmm... possible to just add the two internal fins inside the tubing? so the air will go straight? as you can see my sensor is on the bend. i don't really want to spend another few hundred $$ to fix this. the stupid intake is already so expensive.

will the air go straight after the fins are put in so maybe i can put it on the adapter?
also is it bad to drive around at the moment with the CEL on? any damage to engine?

I don't think making a proper MAF mount is something that can be done by eye.
Honda didn't put vanes in the intake for no good reason.
I have no idea what you would need to do to make your own,
so I reused the one that came with the car.

The CEL wont damage your engine, most likely the car is running limp mode map
so it'll affect your power and fuel economy.

ah oks....

maybe i can ask the guy to chop off a bit and stick it in..
but it would kinda look funny with a black thing in the middle haha

where can i take my car to have the CEL code read? will this help to fine tune on what is wrong?
also are MAF sensors suppose to be from the top? or it can be from anywhere? maybe having it upside down is a problem?