Originally Posted by
OMG.JAI xD
If youre after power at 100% throttle hitting full boost (ie. Going down the drags).
ALL ECU's even piggyback will achieve the same if not within <1% of a difference.
As long as it has control over injection timing and ignition advance/retard.
Its all air fuel ratios with a timed spark. All depends on the tuner and dyno.
Same tuner. Same dyno. Same motor with different ECU's. Its no different.
Put it this way. Whats the difference between a 12:1 AFR tune with 20degrees timing at xxrpm with a hondata s300 and a 12:1 AFR tune with 20 degrees of timing at the same rpm with a haltech, microtech,vi-pec or whatever?
Nothing. Only ECU.
If youre after power. ECU isnt much of a worry.
However. Driveability, fuel efficiency, data logging features, extra features like anti lag, 2 step staging limiter and all that. Then you have to start doing some research.
If youre after power. Build the motor. ECU's dont make kilowatts/horsepower and torque. The engine does. The ECU controls it all.
To make it easy. Stick with a hondata. Its probably the most simplest stand alone-like ecu available for hondas.
There are many tuners out there. As i said. If youre after power, theyll all do the same output (well. If they know what theyre doing).
Id recommend TODA. Only cause ive been to them twice. Once with a vafcII and once with a boosted vtir with a haltech e6x. And adrian seems to know what hes doing. I mean if you do hondas nearly all day everyday. Why wouldnt you.
But that doesnt give me the right to say other tuners are bad.
A tune from 0 can take 2days. You have to get all the base setups right. And if youve changed your fuel and/ignition setup. Its better you have receipts for the part numbers or get the tuner to fit them for you. This will reduce the tuning time significantly. And youll get a better result as theyll know what product theyre working with.
If the base setup is done and a base tune is setup just to get the car driving. The tune can take 4-6 hours depending on the ECU, what type of tune (n/a or boost), and if boosted how much boost the engines going to be running.
A retune will be around about the same time. Depending on how bad the tune was previously.
Hope this has helped.