D15b7 installing USDM D16a6 Cam for factory upgrade
D16a6 CAM-SHAFT INTO D15b7
Warning - this is an advanced article to be attempted by confident mechanical people only - i almost bent valves doing it ... so make sure you know what you are doing before attempting this
The only thing that can go wrong is human error - otherwise its bolt in =D
ok first of all i would like to say sorry for the lack of pics ... i didnt have access to a camera when i did the install but i will do the best i can - its also not specific on the bolt sizes but its not really hard to work it out lol
id also like to say that you need to know how to do your timing before attempting this as well ... if its out than you will blow up your engine (bent valves) - like i almost did =/
after spending a bit of time on d-series.org i started looking at different options for the D15b7 ... now i have always considered this engine completly inferior and only good for taking granny to church
(having driven a Dc2 for many years)
but being bored and being on an extreme budget i decided to restore/jazz up the little civic
the car i did the install in is a 1993 Civic Gli Sedan EG8 - you can view the build in my sig
the first thing i did is track down and purchase a D16a6 Camshaft from the USA which cost about $60AUD shipped =D
the next thing i purchased was Bisimoto Adjustable Cam-Gear ... but due to availability you may want to just stick with Skunk2 or you can just get a D16y8 cam-gear and than fine tune it with the dizzy
Cam Classification
D15b7 Camshaft < D16a6 Camshaft < Bisimoto Stage1 Camshaft
Notes:
- with the 88-95 cam-gear you will be ~4.75* off because of the difference in deck hieght between the b7 and a6
- ensure you have half a tank of clean fuel in the car
- ensure you have some spare oil on hand
Ingredients:
- USDM D16a6 Camshaft (or AUSDM equivelant)
- Adjustable Cam-gear OR D16y8 Cam-gear OR you can just adjust out with your dizzy but not recommended
- Engine Assembly Lubricant
- Hi-Temp Silicon (for rocker cover gasket)
- Various sockets/spanners etc
Method:
1. Jack up car and remove the front left (passenger side) wheel to gain access to the crank
2. Remove the cam-gear cover
3. Set the crank + cam at TDC on the compression stroke
4. Remove spark plugs
5. Remove the rocker cover
6. Remove the rocker assembly (remember to start from the outside and work your way in for removal and the opposite to re-install it)
also be careful when sliding the assembly out because some of the parts are spring loaded and it can all slide apart ... HANDLE WITH CARE
7. Remove the dizzy (without loosing the timing - there should be a small notch for TDC)
8. Use a small amount of liquid paper to mark the tooth on the front side (or back but front is more accessable) timing belt that is TDC (in line with the flat surface of the head (see the attached pic)
http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/p...g?t=1274186485
9. Slide the timing belt off the cam-gear (dont stress about it falling off at the crank because the tensioner will not loosen up
10. Remove the stock D15b7 Cam + Cam-Gear
11. Use engine assembly lubricant on the D16a6 Cam-Shaft - ensure that each of the parts that will be contacting have an even coat - concentrating on the lobes and runners
12. Install your Adjustable cam-gear OR D16y8 cam-gear onto the D16a6 cam-shaft
13. Notch out the inside timing belt cover here if you are using an aftermarket cam-gear (the tuning screws will rip a notch out of this if you dont - i filed mine down as much as i could while the cam-gear was off and than after about 15min of idle and a very loud tapping noise the cam gear wore out the rest - i than had to clear away all the plastic shavings which could have also been harmful)
http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/p...g?t=1274103218
14. Now install the cam + cam-gear into the head - ensure the contact is lubricated and will turn ok and also make sure that it is at TDC
15. Install the dizzy back onto the cam
16. Install the rocker assembly back onto the head - again dont upset the rocker arms etc - remember to torque the bolts from the inside and work your way out
17. Slide the belt onto the cam-gear ensuring the marks all line up and the belt/cam/crank is all at TDC
18. Now turn the crank over by hand toward the front of the car - turn it over so that the TDC markes go around 2 times and set it back at TDC compression stroke ensuring that there is forward tension on the timing belt
IF IT DOES NOT TURN OVER PROPERLY BY HAND THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG
19. IF Step 18. went ok proceed to reinstall the spark plugs, rocker cover etc
20. Double check everything
21. Start the car ... it may take a few goes and it might splutter a bit the first time - just give it a bit of gas
22. If there is a loud tapping sound coming from the cam-gear NOT the rocker cover than it is just the cam-gear wearing out the plastic on the inside timing belt cover and should go away after 15min idle
23. IF all is good ... let the car idle for a good 10min .. than drive at an easy pace for a good 15min ... dont go and thrash it straight away
24. TUNING
now you may need to adjust the cam ... if you drive the car and it bogs down in low revs but only just makes power up high ... you have to adjust the cam forward or backward about 3-4deg ... if you adjust it one way and you get negative effects than just do the opposite for a positive result
(at the moment i have just used the dizzy adjusted all the way to the firewall but i need to translate that to my bisimoto cam gear and set the dizzy at TDC)
25. Check the engine oil / water etc
26. Enjoy your extra torque
http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/p...g?t=1272338150
http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/p...g?t=1271321680
Extra notes:
- The valve lash will need to be corrected to .005/.006
- This will benefit with a I/H/E combination
- The cam gives a good boost to low end torque ... so if you want to balance out the top install a D16y8 Intake Manifold with Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket for the top end gain benefit
- Run a good $20 worth of premium fuel through it after installation to help bed everything in
