brake hose nut & tight caliper.

Don't buy CHEAP braided hoses, they will harden and crack.

Anyway I didn't have the C spanners at the time, one try with a normal spanner slipped.
I borrowed a C spanner and managed to get it off with a bit of difficulty, changed the hose.

It's all fitted now but the nut on the sussy tower is completely cactus & I can't get it tight enough so its still seeping from that spot.

How do I rectify this problem? like replace with a new nut.......



Also, I have a tight rear caliper, friend has said I just need to grease up the two large nuts holding the caliper together. He said the brake piston seals are always lubricated by the brake fluid so no way it could be that. Is this true or there is the possibility the whole caliper needs a rebuild?

dunno if you can do much about the brake line nut except replace the damn thing
goodridge lines are only like 150bucks anyhow

with the brake caliper, your mate's probably talking about the slider pins
there's a special grease for them you can get at auto stores
what's your definition of tight though? when winding it back into the caliper?

the only option is to have a brake repaire place cut the line, replace the nut and reflare the pipe

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

the only option is to have a brake repaire place cut the line, replace the nut and reflare the pipe

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that sux. thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vinnY

what's your definition of tight though? when winding it back into the caliper?

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can't spin the wheel when its up in the air.

if the piston turns freely in the caliper then give the slider pins a clean up and grease

this is what you're after

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

the only option is to have a brake repaire place cut the line, replace the nut and reflare the pipe

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anyone have a rough price estimate of this?

sounds like no one can do it while its on the car, will have to take it out. bummer. LOL

sounds like a similar problem i have had before. the problem i was having was the piston wasnt retracting back properly leading to faster pad wear and high heat coming from the brake system, found out the piston was faulty with chips/knicks in it. i had to replace that piston along with the seals.

Looks like it may be easier to replace the brake line than rectify the problem, as said; braided brake lines are about $150 - I had my front ones' custom made in Moorabbin for $125, ADR approved as well. If you want to know where, I think I remember - PM me.

As for the tight caliper; sounds like the slider pins need re-greasing like your friends have said. You can get slider pin grease from Supercheap Auto for a few bucks (in a small satchet). Undo the two bolts/slider pins and grease they should free up afterwards.

Seized caliper will be the piston seal. Will need to pull the caliper off and clean it out, replace the seal and check the bore for any scoring.

The slide pins won't cause the caliper to seize on. The brakes are applied by hydraulic force, as you all know. The force pushes the piston against the pad and in the case of a floating caliper liek yours, it will "squeeze" the disk against the opposing pad.

The thing which cause the piston to retract is the seal, this pulls the piston back off and relieves any pressure.

So rebuild the calipers and give it a good fluid flush.