Hondata S300 DC5R

Just wondering if this is a direct plug in and away you go or done it need to be tuned?

I want to buy myself something for xmas and thought this would be good. Only mods i have are high flow cat and muffler. I want to get headers but if i don'y have to i wont. I would rather the ECU. I dont want to do any other mods to my car as i have been told the inlet side to the DC5R is really well put together.

I dont want to go k-pro as i plan on doing nothing else. Will this particular ECU be any good?

Sorry if this already exists.

S300 is for B series. Kpro is for K series.

Why don't you want Kpro?

Do you realise they are both the same thing, just for the two different series' of engine?

OH, lol. I thought they were just different ecu. Sorry i am new to it all. K-pro is just expensive right now. If thats the case i will get some headesr from JDM yard instead to reduce the noise of the high flows i have on there now.

We all have to start somewhere :)

You're looking at $1150~ new from the states for Kpro.

An aftermarket header will make more noise over stock too, btw.

Jesus, lol. I guess i will be saving for that one, lol. That can be my tax return :P

I heard they will make it a little quieter only cause its a little high pitched right now get a little annoying.

Is there an upgrade you could recommend?

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Originally Posted by White Noise

Jesus, lol. I guess i will be saving for that one, lol. That can be my tax return :P

I heard they will make it a little quieter only cause its a little high pitched right now get a little annoying.

Is there an upgrade you could recommend?

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Generally, the smartest way to go about it is to get your intake/header/exhaust sorted BEFORE getting a tuning solution, ie: Kpro.

Get your motor breathing nicely, then finish it off with a tune to maximise your results by getting your new setup working well together.

Your K20 is a very good motor, and will respond well to those simple breathing mods (n/a speaking ofcourse :p) It will sound nice a feel very good to drive, with a nicer midrange and a bit more useable power.

Really, it all comes down to your budget, if I were you I'd jsut stick a nice intake on it, you'll get some nice topend with a cold air intake, and the sound will make you smile every time :)

Repped^

Retuning is expensive. Consider tuning as the icing on the cake. No point making the icing before the cake is done. So you need a lot of $$$ for initial mods before an ecu and tuning is worthwhile.

If I could relive my green P's I would mod my stock airbox by chopping off the resonator chamber, looking back the gains i comparison to cost are negligible [ I had a gruppeM ****ing boss yes and does give gains but is it worth the 1k+ price tag? UP to you I wouldnt again].

Get a lightened flywheel. When I had my K24 DC5 it was the best mod I ever did.

I heard cutting that part out of the airbox helps alot as apposed to buying a gruppe M or something similar. Might give that a crack tomorrow. I think i will go for the headers next.

What would a lightened flywheel achieve? Should i get the Heavy Duty Clutch too? What would this do?

Thank you heapos for the help guys :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by White Noise

I heard cutting that part out of the airbox helps alot as apposed to buying a gruppe M or something similar. Might give that a crack tomorrow. I think i will go for the headers next.

What would a lightened flywheel achieve? Should i get the Heavy Duty Clutch too? What would this do?

Thank you heapos for the help guys :)

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The thing with a GruppeM is that it allows for colder air to mix and combust with the fuel. If you can't justify spending the money for it, you could try the Tegiwa intake (gruppem replica), Injen CAI or just a short ram intake. Not too sure how much difference cutting out part of the airbox would do. Guess it wouldn't hurt to try?

Lightened flywheel will allow for the revs to pick up a little quicker. Your car will accelerate a little bit quicker, but at the same time you need to shift faster because the revs will also drop faster. A typical stock clutch wouldn't be able to handle the harshness of track driving or lots of extra torque very well. Having a heavy duty clutch allows makes the clutch 'bite' a lot harder. So you may find it a bit annoying for daily driving. Depends on the person and how 'heavy duty' the clutch is. If your DC5 just has the basic bolt-on modifications, you don't really need a heavy duty clutch. But if you did get one, stage 1.5 or stage 2 is plenty enough. Anything above that is useless unless you have a highly modified car, track car or just like your clutch to have an aggressive bite. Also take note that if you decide to do get a lightened flywheel and clutch, you should get them done at the same time because they all have to be removed whether you're replacing just one of them or both.

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Originally Posted by funworld

The thing with a GruppeM is that it allows for colder air to mix and combust with the fuel. If you can't justify spending the money for it, you could try the Tegiwa intake (gruppem replica), Injen CAI or just a short ram intake. Not too sure how much difference cutting out part of the airbox would do. Guess it wouldn't hurt to try?

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Yes.

From my own personal experience, $250 or whatever for an Injen isnt worth it. Its how I blew my K20A2, plus the gains arent really that big. You can live without it, its nice to have but dont get carried away like I did. When I parted out my Mugen headers + hi flow cat and GruppeM, my car did lose its "oompf" but it still went because of the lightened flywheel. From removing the resonator chamber with an angle grinder, I enlarged the inlet of the airbox significantly. Felt more responsive and the guy who bought my car took it for a drive and said it screamed. I wouldnt know I've been driving it for too long and got used to it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by funworld

Lightened flywheel will allow for the revs to pick up a little quicker. Your car will accelerate a little bit quicker, but at the same time you need to shift faster because the revs will also drop faster. A typical stock clutch wouldn't be able to handle the harshness of track driving or lots of extra torque very well. Having a heavy duty clutch allows makes the clutch 'bite' a lot harder. So you may find it a bit annoying for daily driving. Depends on the person and how 'heavy duty' the clutch is. If your DC5 just has the basic bolt-on modifications, you don't really need a heavy duty clutch. But if you did get one, stage 1.5 or stage 2 is plenty enough. Anything above that is useless unless you have a highly modified car, track car or just like your clutch to have an aggressive bite. Also take note that if you decide to do get a lightened flywheel and clutch, you should get them done at the same time because they all have to be removed whether you're replacing just one of them or both.

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Dont go stage 2 I had one. It was good for racing and spirited drives but stop start, it made an annoying screech sound. Plus was really picky with how it liked to be used to be smooth. If anything go Exedy Heavy Duty.

Lightened flywheels arent as annoying as people say they are. I find it easier to drive with over stock because it takes less throttle to rev. Plus when you down shift without heel toeing there's not much jerking and lurching because that heavy weight has been lightened.

Funworld's right with the hiyting two birds with one idea stone, but you should also ask yourself how long your going to keep this car and how often it will be on the track or at wsid.

Thanks Funworld and DakDak :)

Sounds like i should just go a lightened flywheel and keep my stock clutch. Nothing wrong with it so why fix what isn't broken. Any particular ones i should go for brand and most importantly quality wise?

I plan on keep the car car for a long time. i dont really do track but we have good mountains here so Touge is my thing :) Just after a little quicker acceleration.

I had an Exedy lightened flywheel. It weighed about 4kg I think from memory, the stock one was around 8kg+ ! If your going to keep the car for about 2 years and the clutch doesnt look like it'll last that long replace it. How many km's have you got on your car? Stock clutches last about 120000km on average depending if its had a hard life or not.

I was running a stock dc5r clutch with a K24 for ages. They're rather decent.

Just keep the hard launches to a minimum and burn outs, dont ride it etc the stock clutch will last for quite awhile.