Am I up for a new radiator?? Help!!!

Hi guys, really need your expert opinion. I have a 2001 Gen 1 CR-V 2.0. Today, I noticed this liquid on my garage floor where the CR-V is usually parked:

http://imageshack.us/a/img5/8481/crv...ak001custo.jpg

So I opened up the hood and found evidence of coolant splash stains around the engine bay:

http://imageshack.us/a/img703/4629/c...ak003custo.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img35/3117/cr...ak004custo.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img267/1710/c...ak009custo.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img585/1229/c...ak010custo.jpg

And I noticed the expansion tank's coolant level is almost down to the minimum level:

http://imageshack.us/a/img824/4324/c...ak005custo.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img341/9034/c...ak006custo.jpg

Radiator cap is new and doesn't seem to be leaking around this area:

http://imageshack.us/a/img521/2825/c...ak002custo.jpg

But it does appear there is coolant seeping thru the top of the radiator where it joins to the top cover, as the whole area is moist:

http://imageshack.us/a/img849/8248/c...ak008custo.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img713/642/cr...ak007custo.jpg

So I'm obviously having a radiator leak...am I up for a new radiator?? Or is there something cheap I can pour in to stop the leak? What could have caused this? My temp gauge in the car isn't showing any overheating, it is still at normal level. Any advice and help appreciated... Thanks!!

might be a pin hole on the top radiator,

in my experience, prelude radiators have a 10 year expectation to last, mine blew not too long ago, had a nice big crack in the top tank.

you can get cement paste stuff, but doesnt last very long and contaminates your coolant too.

Better off getting a new radiator off ebay or what not, get a aluminim one, they seem to last longer.

It looks to be leaking at the top, you can see it in your 2nd photo.

Get a new rad.

Might be the top plastic tank as where you can see the residue. Top plastic tank is press fitted/joined to the radiator and has a rubber seal in between. Looks as though its coming through there.

New radiator. Also check the condition of the thermostat. General rule is to do both together!

With the themostat, make sure you go genuine. No cheap supercheap brand or after market spoon or mugen!

With the radiator. Don't be fooled by cheap radiators. Always check the width of it. As the cheap ones seem to be 12-16 mm wide will the good quality are around 25mm.
Giving better cooling.

I just did my gen 1 CRV. I used these guys.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320639679...84.m1438.l2649

Also always use pre mixed coolent. Dont use tap water with concentrated coolent!


To add. wash every thing the coolant got on. Its corrosive!

If it is indeed the top tank seal. You do not need to get a new radiator. You can get the seal replaced. Get a quote and make up your mind.

Got RACQ out to give some advice. He also reckons it is probably just the top tank seal judging by the way it is leaking. If so, that seal can be fixed, but if they open it up and find more corrosion inside which we cannot see, then it is a new radiator. He also advised not to drive it until fixed. Guess I'm hunting for a workshop tomorrow...

Get a new one. You replace the top seal. In couple of months the bottom one will go. Also it may be slightly clogged and other unknown problems!

If the core is still good, replacing the seals is a much cheaper option. Only gonna find that out when they pull the radiator

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mooshie

If the core is still good, replacing the seals is a much cheaper option. Only gonna find that out when they pull the radiator

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Taking it to some one to pull out the radiator, inspect it and replace the seal. The labour will prob cost more. Then buy a new one and installing it yourself!

I agree with Mark and Dean.

Just a top tank/seal. Bottom is probably fine and is generally much more durable/longer lasting.

Replace the top tank or just the seal or both. Cheaper than a new radiator. I've done this on both my cars and they're running fine (one five years and the other two years).

call easy scrap, cars a write off.
i would prolly go a larger alloy radiatior myself (especialy if you tow or drive under heavy load for what ever reason), but its been said befor do the thermostat at the same time and go genuine IME the genuine ones when they get stuck they seem to stick open where as the aftermarket ones i have dealt with stick closed....