Removing the crank pulley bolt alternative

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

Sorry no pics!

This was never an easy job, this is just a kind of ghetto way I found that worked. I did actually HAVE the tool but this turned out to be what got it off in the end (that's what she said)


NOTE: This process I know works on MANUAL cars and can be performed on Auto (In park), thanks grifty.

Aim: Remove that damn pulley bolt without using a pulley holder tool or air tools and not damage anything in the process.

Required: Another human being with one strong leg, big ar$e breaker bar, extension pole if you need more leverage, socket extensions, 19mm socket, floor jack and 2x stands, WD40, patience.


Steps:
I haven't seen this method posted anywhere so I thought I'd share my experience.


Step 1:
Jack the car up, place jack stand under the car at the correct jack stand point and keep the jack as backup support just in case. 2 points of failure is always better than one!


Step 2:
Remove all the plastic shroud so you can get to the bolt on the crank pulley. Remove spark plug leads and plugs so we are not fighting compression. We don't want to damage anything remember.


Step 3:
Make up your breaker bar with extensions so you can get some leverage clear of the car and attach 19mm socket to the end and stick that on the pulley bolt. Use the second jack stand as your support at breaker bar end, this helps eliminate any wasted twisting effort. WD40 is helpful here too.


Step 4:
This is where the magic happens, get your buddy in the car and have him place the car in first gear and STAND on the brake hard. You can't have the engine running so you wont have any hydraulic braking assistance here. Now stand on that breaker bar and get the bastard off. By locking the rotation of the axles with the brakes, which is connected to the gearbox which is connected to the crank, you should be able to get the bolt off. The risk of damage is minimized and best of all, no holder tool required!


Other comments:
Hardest part is actually keeping the brakes from not spinning as you don't have assistance here, you just need to be He-man about it.

Tips: I was doing this just after i had washed the car, probably the wrong way around you might think but the rust built up on the brake disk actually helped the pad bind to the disk better. And hey the car's clean too.


Good luck!

This will work better on an auto as opposed to a manual, this doesn't really work on all manual cars as the clutch will start to slip.

You will also still have brake boost assistance for 1-2 pedal pushes after the car has been switched off.

Good to know, and updated

The clutch shouldn't slip with the given amount of force. Then again i can't speak for the condition of everyone's clutch, I had no issues to say the least.

The ghetto (and how most mech's used to do it and many probably still do) way is to brace your breaker bar against something sturdy in the engine bay and then flick the starter. Let the starter motor undo the bolt for you.

*Note i said 'flick' the starter not hold it, you're only looking for enough of a turn to start the bolt and make sure you know which way the engine is going to turn over and brace your bar accordingly, you don't want it the wrong way round then a breaker bar flying around.

That method won't work on any b, d, h, f motors as they spin anti clockwise

and trying to avoid damage to any mechanical components and/or people in the process.

If you're able to weld (even a dodgy arc welder) you can make yourself a crank pulley holding tool for the pulleys with the 50mm hex opening. Just need to get a solid metal bar, a piece of metal water pipe (about 50mm), a 50mm nut and some little flat pieces of steel. All these are available at most industrial metal shops.

http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...6-04132306.jpg

http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...6-08171429.jpg

You may notice that the welding looks f**king sh*t haha. That's because it is. But it works amazingly well!

the fastest way to unbolt a pulley, that I've tested on two cars (mine and my bro's)
is to remove a shield at the bottom for the gearbox, and then block a flywheel with a little bolt or wrench, that will fit tightly somewhere in the gap between gearbox case an flywheel teeth.
fits?
that's it, you can bolt on/unbolt crank pulley, absolutely no damage to flywheel of gearbox, tested =)

PS I do apologize for my engrish as I'm from Ukraine )))

Quote:

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Originally Posted by grifty

That method won't work on any b, d, h, f motors as they spin anti clockwise

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On the money grifty. Was about to post that.. you beat me to it. not that you need any more rep

haha what I used:

1x Crank Pulley tool (bought off ebay for $20)
2x Breaker bar (borrow one off your matee)
1x exhaust pipe (for leverage)