Help diagnose starting issue. Battery/alternator?

Hey guys,

Car used to start straight away and crank hard. Last few days when i turn the key, it starts to cranks slower and weaker, progressively getting worse

Didn't feel like it would start the next day, so last night i charged the batt just to see if it would fix it.

This morning multimeter shows 12.3V engine off, got it to struggle to turn on (video 1) and showed 14V

Turned car off, wouldn't start again. After a few tries, battery showed 10V

Now it's stuck there, when i try to start it (video 2)

I dont think its the starter motor as it appears to be turning fine and the cluster lights turn off when i turn the key so more likely to be batt or alternator?

turn sound up for the vids and you can hear when it cranks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHyy1VxNBKk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdV7Iim5mHg

anymore info needed ask and ill see if i can provide any more details to narrow it down

thanx 4 halp bogs

mate its the battery, youre over thinking

dead battery by the looks of it

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

Hey guys,

Car used to start straight away and crank hard. Last few days when i turn the key, it starts to cranks slower and weaker, progressively getting worse

Didn't feel like it would start the next day, so last night i charged the batt just to see if it would fix it.

This morning multimeter shows 12.3V engine off, got it to struggle to turn on (video 1) and showed 14V

Turned car off, wouldn't start again. After a few tries, battery showed 10V

Now it's stuck there, when i try to start it (video 2)

I dont think its the starter motor as it appears to be turning fine and the cluster lights turn off when i turn the key so more likely to be batt or alternator?

turn sound up for the vids and you can hear when it cranks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHyy1VxNBKk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdV7Iim5mHg

anymore info needed ask and ill see if i can provide any more details to narrow it down

thanx 4 halp bogs

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This is a dead give away. Charged all night and the battery was only at 12.3 volts after being disconnected. Should be at 12.8 to 13.8 straight after disconnection.

Also checking the volts isnt the right way to test a battery. You have to do a load test!

borrow someones battery

e.g parents car


and test it out


if the bat still has little life it it you can try gassing it a little bit while cranking

Quote:

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Originally Posted by integraR

borrow someones battery

e.g parents car


and test it out


if the bat still has little life it it you can try gassing it a little bit while cranking

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reps all round.

smart guy, how much mechanics charge for battery change?

anywhere cheaper den imlachs? dey want oldbatt+$30

pm cbauto. he will take care of you

It's a toyota - that's your problem
JK

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mocchi

pm cbauto. he will take care of you

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jasemas

It's a toyota - that's your problem
JK

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these guys are on the right track

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jasemas

It's a toyota - that's your problem
JK

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JK tyre isnt funny ok m8

http://s13.postimg.org/8d8wyfawn/image.jpg


any updates CB?

You want to pay somebody to change your battery for you? Just buy a good battery once and be done with it for a long time. Get a good dry cell.

Otherwise your Imlach battery will maybe last you 6-12 months because it's used, or you can buy a new one and get 2-3 years out of it. Go dry cell and get 5+ years of big CCA goodness.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dougie_504

You want to pay somebody to change your battery for you? Just buy a good battery once and be done with it for a long time. Get a good dry cell.

Otherwise your Imlach battery will maybe last you 6-12 months because it's used, or you can buy a new one and get 2-3 years out of it. Go dry cell and get 5+ years of big CCA goodness.

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Yeah don't want to break anything man


jk ended up getting one from century, highest CCA to power my 4 12" subs. $122 with tradein old battery