Recently swapped EK1 and the engine light

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18-11-2015, 08:48 PM
ekR

Recently swapped EK1 and the engine light

Hey guys,

Long time lurker, first time poster just seeking assistance with my recently swapped EK1.

Recently I had my car swapped from the stock d16y4 to the b18c for a little more power/fun (inb4 why not K), loving it so far (knock on wood no major issues) but when it was first given to me from the mechanic, it came with an engine light.

The mechanic originally told me that the o2 sensors were out of whack and they needed to be replaced - which, was fair enough given that I had paid this guy to swap my engine not my o2 sensors - as long as the engine was in good knack and healthy (again touch wood so far so good) I was not too picky about it and was willing to bear the cost of new o2 sensors - also keeping in mind the person I bought the car off had the engine light come on with the d16y4 prior to my swap as well, his explanation was that the "cluster was ****ed" and everything was ok though.

My question now is that I've had the car for about 3 weeks and have been running around getting parts and quotes for new stuff to be installed (the joys of your first modified car, from bone stock) and the engine light still comes on every now and then, now the exhaust was never changed so I have a sneaking suspicion it could have something to do with it, also I only got 330km on a full tank of 95.

Now I guess the point of this post is that I got a quote for a new exhaust system including cat, piping muffler etc which I'm going to have to wait 2 weeks for parts to come in, so I'm gonna have to sit tight with what I have.

Should I change my o2 sensors now, or should I wait for the new exhaust before I change my sensors? Also, if I were to install the new sensors on the existing exhaust, is it possible to take them off and install them on the new exhaust once it's installed? I don't wanna risk damaging anything but at the same time I don't want to double handle and end up paying twice as much.

Advice greatly appreciated, from someone who has recently got into the car and modification scene definitely seeing this stuff makes you nervous and information you find on the internet is usually scare mongering in attempts to get you to spend money, so I want some feedback from people who have actually had the sort of issue before.

Thanks!
18-11-2015, 09:52 PM
EgFanatic

Well, first of all you need to jump the ecu connector in the passenger side in the kick panel with a bent paper clip, it should be a 2 pin blue? plug, then crank the key to find out how many times the engine light blinks, depending on the number it will tell you why the engine light is coming on, here are the codes:

OBD1 Trouble Codes:

Code 0 and 11 Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Code1 Heated oxygen sensor A
Code 2 Oxygen content B
Code 3 and 5 Manifold Absolute Pressure
Code 4 Crank position sensor
Code 6 Engine coolant temperature
Code 7 Throttle position sensor
Code 8 Top dead center sensor
Code 9 No.1 cylinder position sensor
Code 10 Intake air temperature sensor
Code 12 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 13 Barometric pressure sensor
Code 14 Idle air control valve or bad ECM
Code 15 Ignition output signal
Code 16 Fuel Injector
Code 17 Vehicle speed sensor
Code 19 A/T lock-up control solenoid
Code 20 Electric load detector
Code 21 V-TEC control solenoid
Code 22 V-TEC pressure solenoid
Code 23 Knock sensor
Code 30 A/T FI signal A
Code 30 A/T FI signal B
Code 41 Heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 43 Fuel supply system
Code 45 Fuel supply metering
Code 48 Heated oxygen sensor
Code 61 Front heated oxygen sensor
Code 63 Rear heated oxygen sensor
Code 65 Rear heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 67 Catalytic converter system
Code 70 Automatic transaxle
Code 71 Misfire detected cylinder 1
Code 72 Misfire detected cylinder 2
Code 73 Misfire detected cylinder 3
Code 74 Misfire detected cylinder 4
Code 75 Misfire detected cylinder 5
Code 76 Misfire detected cylinder 6
Code 80 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 86 Coolant temperature
Code 92 Evaporative emission control system

As for your o2 sensor obviously if youre getting 330kms per tank, cars running rich which means the o2 sensor is on its way out, o2 sensors on hondas generally last 60,000kms from new, then they start acting up, most common side effect is running rich, better to run rich then run lean. So it should be ok for the time being to run it as it is and then install your new o2 sensors on to your new exhaust system. The only downfall will be in your wallet for petrol money, hope this helps :]
18-11-2015, 10:40 PM
ekR

Quote:

Originally Posted by EgFanatic

Well, first of all you need to jump the ecu connector in the passenger side in the kick panel with a bent paper clip, it should be a 2 pin blue? plug, then crank the key to find out how many times the engine light blinks, depending on the number it will tell you why the engine light is coming on, here are the codes:

OBD1 Trouble Codes:

Code 0 and 11 Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Code1 Heated oxygen sensor A
Code 2 Oxygen content B
Code 3 and 5 Manifold Absolute Pressure
Code 4 Crank position sensor
Code 6 Engine coolant temperature
Code 7 Throttle position sensor
Code 8 Top dead center sensor
Code 9 No.1 cylinder position sensor
Code 10 Intake air temperature sensor
Code 12 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 13 Barometric pressure sensor
Code 14 Idle air control valve or bad ECM
Code 15 Ignition output signal
Code 16 Fuel Injector
Code 17 Vehicle speed sensor
Code 19 A/T lock-up control solenoid
Code 20 Electric load detector
Code 21 V-TEC control solenoid
Code 22 V-TEC pressure solenoid
Code 23 Knock sensor
Code 30 A/T FI signal A
Code 30 A/T FI signal B
Code 41 Heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 43 Fuel supply system
Code 45 Fuel supply metering
Code 48 Heated oxygen sensor
Code 61 Front heated oxygen sensor
Code 63 Rear heated oxygen sensor
Code 65 Rear heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 67 Catalytic converter system
Code 70 Automatic transaxle
Code 71 Misfire detected cylinder 1
Code 72 Misfire detected cylinder 2
Code 73 Misfire detected cylinder 3
Code 74 Misfire detected cylinder 4
Code 75 Misfire detected cylinder 5
Code 76 Misfire detected cylinder 6
Code 80 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 86 Coolant temperature
Code 92 Evaporative emission control system

As for your o2 sensor obviously if youre getting 330kms per tank, cars running rich which means the o2 sensor is on its way out, o2 sensors on hondas generally last 60,000kms from new, then they start acting up, most common side effect is running rich, better to run rich then run lean. So it should be ok for the time being to run it as it is and then install your new o2 sensors on to your new exhaust system. The only downfall will be in your wallet for petrol money, hope this helps :]

Helps a lot!

My mechanic said he has some o2 sensors on the way in so I'm really hoping it's the fix, a full tank is only about $38 compared to the $55 I was paying with my previous car so I'm not too fussy about it running too rich as long as it's not causing any damage, of course the more kms on a full tank the better but I took the plunge into low kms high consumption when I decided to start modifying my car so I was prepared for it - not to say a modified car can't be economic just a bonus I guess.

I've never done any ecu troubleshooting so it's sorta new to me, I'll see if I can find a way to do that.

I'll look into the list you gave me and try and figure it out, much appreciated
19-11-2015, 06:32 AM
ECU-MAN

don't guess or believe what other tell you before you commit to purchasing parts. Diagnose the problem correctly and then fix the problem, then purchase parts if required.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...gnostics-Codes
19-11-2015, 07:50 AM
Jasemas

Quote:

Originally Posted by ekR

Helps a lot!

My mechanic said he has some o2 sensors on the way in so I'm really hoping it's the fix, a full tank is only about $38 compared to the $55 I was paying with my previous car so I'm not too fussy about it running too rich as long as it's not causing any damage, of course the more kms on a full tank the better but I took the plunge into low kms high consumption when I decided to start modifying my car so I was prepared for it - not to say a modified car can't be economic just a bonus I guess.

I've never done any ecu troubleshooting so it's sorta new to me, I'll see if I can find a way to do that.

I'll look into the list you gave me and try and figure it out, much appreciated

I hope its a genuine Honda o2 sensor or an NTK/NGK one
otherwise most of the aftermarket - you can forget it
19-11-2015, 08:30 AM
bennjamin

Quote:

Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

don't guess or believe what other tell you before you commit to purchasing parts. Diagnose the problem correctly and then fix the problem, then purchase parts if required.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...gnostics-Codes

Just to add - with conversions this issue is VERY common and rarely requires replacement parts. It's a wiring to the o2 sensor issue
19-11-2015, 08:59 AM
ekR

Quote:

Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

don't guess or believe what other tell you before you commit to purchasing parts. Diagnose the problem correctly and then fix the problem, then purchase parts if required.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...gnostics-Codes

Yeah well this was the guy who put my engine in so I'm assuming when he's told me it's the o2 sensors he's identified it wasn't a wiring issue or an actual issue with the engine

That's a lot of codes to look at and remember, I'll give it a shot though

Thanks man

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jasemas

I hope its a genuine Honda o2 sensor or an NTK/NGK one
otherwise most of the aftermarket - you can forget it

Not sure, I'll have to ask him. I do always like OEM though can't ever go wrong with it

Quote:

Originally Posted by bennjamin

Just to add - with conversions this issue is VERY common and rarely requires replacement parts. It's a wiring to the o2 sensor issue

Hope so

Back to the main post though, is it ok to change them while the old exhaust is still on it or should I wait till the new exhaust is installed? Not sure if the o2 sensors plug into the exhaust I do know one of them sit on the head somewhere but I've seen some videos with some of them sitting inside the cat/piping so not sure if it's a waste of money or double handling to do it twice? Or will the o2 sensor literally just plug off and into whatever else I want to plug it into