Brake booster delete

Hi all,

Considering doing a brake booster delete on my EM1 mainly to get a firmer pedal feel as its for the track only, question is if you have done this what are the set backs and did you retain the ABS. Keen to get rid of that to.

i have a big brake set up on the front so not worrying to much about stopping power.

And does the ABS system have links to the ECU i.e. No ABS no start.

Thanks in advance on your respected advice.

Have a read of this thread....might need to sign up if you aren't a member.

Not sure regarding the ECU, you have aftermarket anyway right? There is a separate Abs control module, someone else will need to confirm whether there is any feedback to the ECU.

Try unplugging the abs control module or removing an abs fuse to see if it has any affect. I know I have run with the Abs disabled on my dc2 (obd1 running hondata) with no malfunction noted.

Grant's DC2 http://forum.clubitr.com.au/showthread.php?t=14421

tried to stop your car when the engine is off with the brakes ? It's almost impossible. Since you have a BBK it would be even harder. I would strongly suggest to keep the standard booster just rip out the ABS for weight saves

Too much internet usdm in here

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Originally Posted by rc_

Have a read of this thread....might need to sign up if you aren't a member.

Not sure regarding the ECU, you have aftermarket anyway right? There is a separate Abs control module, someone else will need to confirm whether there is any feedback to the ECU.

Try unplugging the abs control module or removing an abs fuse to see if it has any affect. I know I have run with the Abs disabled on my dc2 (obd1 running hondata) with no malfunction noted.

Grant's DC2 http://forum.clubitr.com.au/showthread.php?t=14421

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Will have to join rc_ to read, I still am running the OEM ECU my dental floss budget is almost at breaking point (sorry about the pun)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bennjamin

tried to stop your car when the engine is off with the brakes ? It's almost impossible. Since you have a BBK it would be even harder. I would strongly suggest to keep the standard booster just rip out the ABS for weight saves

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Thanks for the advice, will try a run around the houses to see the pedal feel with the booster disconnected.

May be just a master cylinder bore size change to get a better feel. I have a Willwood dual circuit single bore in mind for a replacement, comes in several bore sizes.

Whats wrong with USDM.

Hey Howard conventional wisdom is that the pedal ratio is way off for booster delete (it's around 3.5-4iirc). I built a twin master pedal box and used a 6.5 pedal ratio. This still makes the brakes very heavy (have not bedded them in or run at the track though ). The guys who have built / fitted pedal boxes to their race cars recommend a pedal ratio around 6-7.5. This is also backed up by literature in aftermarket brake suppliers catalogues.

The size of your master needs to be matched to your caliper piston area to match fluid volume. Then you tweak the pedal ratio to give you the right feel.

Have a bit of a read of the technical info on the obp website for a start. I imagine alcon, AP and brembo sites probably have similar tech info.