Suspension?

Hiya guys
I've had my car for a while now
and have decided to limit the amount of striaght line speed upgrade and instead concentrate on either chassis reinforcments or suspensions
Would love to do both but MONEY MONEY MONEY MONEY MONEY...MONEY...

Should I reinforce chassis? If so, what other struts/sway can I add to increase the rigidity of the vehicle?
I've already got front and rear struts...

OR install a good set of coilovers/adjustable shocks with some carefully matched springs...any ideas on this one?

The car is daily driven, i live in the suburbs under Fairfield Shitty Council so road conditions aren't that great...

how much can you afford ? =P

i would look at full coilovers if you got the dosh!. DMS are awesome.. Tiens are ok.. i personally.. well id go with the DMS but they cost alot.. i think theres some spring and shock comboes that work really well. but i dont know them =P.. but
have a look DMS or TIENs...

get a larger rear swaybar , front castor kit and full wheel alignment. Taht shoudl be enoguh to make your car handle great and feel good too :)

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Originally Posted by bennjamin

get a larger rear swaybar , front castor kit and full wheel alignment. Taht shoudl be enoguh to make your car handle great and feel good too :)

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i had a whiteline castor kit, up until one of the high tensile bolt somehow sheared itsself off, i think it may have been to do with the washers that were used to adjust the amount ofcastor.
the type-r comes with a 22mm swaybar, i reckon you'd want to upgrade the front swaybar to 26-27mm if you were going to go ahead with an upgraded rear.

and yes, DMS is the mofo shit. :thumbsup:

i'd say the standard R bars are IMO pretty good... I'm not a fan of standard suspension (not just on the DC2R, on all cars) my friend has an eibach springs and bilstein shock combo on his dc2 with 17" rims, the car handles very well on the street never tracked it, if you're looking at track work i'd prefer the coilovers (obviously) but on a budget i reckon the eibach/bilstein combo would be good enough :D good luck

I'm not going to track the car often
just for some fun
99% road, 1% track
I was thinking koni yellow adj. dampers, and some type of progressive springs, unless i can source a cheap set of second hand coilovers

Also, when i take left turns, my front right side is making creaking noises - whats the deal? Cos i was kinda using this as an excuse to upgrade the sussy...

i'm currently running:

ITR front strut brace
Whiteline 20mm rear swaybar
50mm lowered king springs
Koni Yellow shocks
and 17" rims (215 wide)

handling is quite good
normally drive on a fairly soft setting on the shocks otherwise you feel every bump on the road :o

but even on that setting, it handles very well, even in the wet

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Originally Posted by hong_ung

I'm not going to track the car often
just for some fun
99% road, 1% track
I was thinking koni yellow adj. dampers, and some type of progressive springs, unless i can source a cheap set of second hand coilovers

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what are progressive springs, i hear that term used alot. especially with well known branded springs

check this out man ..
http://www.whiteline.com.au/faqsprings.htm#I%20want%20"progressive%20springs", %20

hope it helps

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Originally Posted by CONAN

what are progressive springs, i hear that term used alot. especially with well known branded springs

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http://www.whiteline.com.au/default....faqsprings.htm

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Originally Posted by whiteline

This is often the reality of customers requests for progressive springs. Marketing hype has convinced them that progressive springs "are good" but not necessarily why, where or in what way. For those of you that know the answer, now's the time to look elsewhere. If you don't know, or think you know, no one can see you so read on. A progressive spring can be defined simply as one that does NOT have a linear rate. This means that it's rate changes depending on the amount of deflection in a way that can not be plotted via a linear relationship. Typical examples are coil springs in a conical shape, those using variable wire thickness and most commonly, those with irregular gaps between the individual coils. It is also possible and common to see all of the above used in the same design. An example of this is Commodore IRS rear coils.

Progressive spring designs for lowering cars are used to (in order of relevance)

1. keep the spring trapped (legal requirement)
2. sell to the customer (this is better just because it is progressive)
3. easy solution for the designer
4. duplicating the OE progression (e.g.; conical shape is progressive)
5. actually is better for the vehicle to have progressive rate (rarely happens)

Note that we specifically mention "lowered" in this simplified explanation. Original equipment manufacturers use progressive designs primarily at standard ride heights (also factory sports version with minimal height change) to allow for some suppleness during initial spring deflection. This allows for a heavier rate to be used once the lighter rate coils go "dead" or bind making them ineffectual. These clever designs are carefully matched to the dampers, swaybars, bushes and chassis design to create a tuned solution.

With lowered performance springs, we are more concerned with increasing the rate while lowering the ride height. Reducing the suspension travel creates its own complications but the last thing we need is a varying increased deflection rate that can not be matched by an appropriate damper or chassis mods to suit. In fact, performance applications are generally best served by a linear rate if possible.

Next time they try to sell you their " you-beaut lowered progressive" springs, ask them if they have some matching "progressive rate" shocks to suit. Also, ask the seller if the rate progression of the spring is designed to match the inherent rate progression of the vehicles chassis? For example, the EA-EL Falcon AND Honda Civic front suspension geometry has spring rate progression as part of its design. In fact, most suspension designs have sort of travel progression that leads to rate progression because the wheel moves in an arc. Adding progression to progression creates all sorts of problems so be wary of some manufacturers claims.

Whiteline says our Whiteline Springs are only progressive where and if they need to be.

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As i know, some taiwan coilovers are pretty good quality. The price is $980.

What is the castor adjustment??