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Hi ,
I am runing a B16A2 on EK4 now.
was thinking to put B18C5 or B20B or K20A.
most likely will go for B18C5 , as my mugen computer can fit.
anyone try to put B20B block b4 ? if go for B20B, will keep the B16a2 head.
if put b18c5 , then will give up the whole B16a2 engine ..
which way is safer and cheaper and better ?
thanks.
well, a K20 engine spins the worng way, so drop that idea.
Personally, I'd go B20B/16A head. Should really be cheaper. Since its still a honda engine, it is no less reliable than any other honda engine.
I am sure someone has a better idea of prices, but B18C5s are a bit over pircied.
have u found out how much would the b18c7 fitted cost ??? ;)
before you begin to narrow your choices you should find someone who has the expertise and is willing to do a crvtec (unless you're doin it yourself). I would be happy with a ITR swap; its bolt on, you're already obdII, and you're already VTEC...the other two choices dont offer much more for the effort thats gona be required on your part.
As an example you realise that just slapping the head stock on the b20 block its not good enough...the bottom end needs to be reinforced to support tyhe high revving characteristics of the b16a...that means at least looking into arp rod bolts and head studs, balancing the crank and shotpeening and balancing the rods as well. Then, depending on how much power you wanna put down new cams, cam gears and valve train is a must. Then tuning is your friend with nothing less than a standalone like hondata that will alow ignition, fuel and cam timing.
IMO do plenty of research and you'll be fine :)
Hey LatinoHatchCrap.. Any chance you can blow up your avatar?? I cant see much from the small pic... :D
As long as it stays off the forum. I'm sure i don't need to remind you guys that posting pornographic images on the forum can have you banned.Quote:
Originally Posted by dcii_sir
Let's keep this on topic. thanks.
[As an example you realise that just slapping the head stock on the b20 block its not good enough...the bottom end needs to be reinforced to support tyhe high revving characteristics of the b16a...that means at least looking into arp rod bolts and head studs, balancing the crank and shotpeening and balancing the rods as well. Then, depending on how much power you wanna put down new cams, cam gears and valve train is a must. Then tuning is your friend with nothing less than a standalone like hondata that will alow ignition, fuel and cam timing. ]
I guess u read this info up? I dont see how the headstuds, rod bolts is going to make ur bottom end stronger, expecially since all the crvtecs that i know of in RL suffer from cracked sleeves and hair line cracks in the block, of which u didnt even mention. Nothing less than a standalone? tell me u read that too? I got a friend who runs a unichip on his crvtec conversion, it works fine. Its only a piggy back, so i dont know where u got that from either.
Dont believe everything u read man, i hope i dont offend u, but theres a big difference between reading what is said over the net, as opposed to seeing RL results and consequences.
Aight back to my hole
I ask around today , the cheapest B18C5 engine package was AUD5000.
come with the ECU , Gearbox , Radiator etc.
and the B20B block cost 1000 , however, consider the techique of the melbourne mechanics , really a risk to go for the conversion. as I had heard lots of story abt the B20 block and b16head . , the engine really cannot last for long. also , need to get the head gasket and modify the bottom end etc. end up with another 1-2 K .. Hence , another 2K for a b18c seems to be a safer way. Actually, anyone here who had done the b20b/16 vtec b4 ? if so , I really appreciate if you can show me the car and let me feel how fast is it first .. cheers
alain
go the b18cR less head aches in the end :)
get the k20,be the first in australia to do it
has been done and can be done in US since last year
you have to put both engine + box into the car
dno't listen to all those spin the wrong way bullshit
k20 would be much more expensive than b18, but can be done. overall reliability/cost and more power over the b16 u have now, b18 is the way to go :D
You guys read to much bullshit ALLMTR's B20B only ran ARP rod bolts other than that the bottom end was STD and using a ported B16A head which he did himself,a set of custom headers that he made himself,a set of Toda Spec-A cams and Type-R valve springs and a large plenum intake it made 122kw's at 8500rpm. :D