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sup all
as some know, my car has done only 2,600km's (3month old) and have had the 1st service done not too long ago. Cause the honda scheduled service interval is every 10,000km's, I'd like to do just the oil every 5,000km's then take it to the dealer for normal oil and filter every 10,000km's.
Just curious if it's too early to start using fully synthetic oil? or should I still use semi-syn oil till like after 5,000km's? I have always used mobil 1 0-40 on previous cars, and wondering if it's ok for the 'R'?
cheers.
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If your going for synthetic make sure you go for a real thin one. Im using a thick mobil 1 atm but am thinking of going back to a thick good mineral as I can get it as cheap as chips from work and afford to change the oil when i fill up with petrol. Plus its not bad, we use it on ALL cars that come in for services. and they seem to like it fine for 10,000. I wouldnt stretch it past 4 -5 tho, cut down the price, change it more often
Also using synthetic on a new oil can "coat" the engine internals, preventing them to be run in properly. I would just use the genuine honda oil which is still very good until at least 50,000
OIl should really be changed every 5,000ks. Remember a cardinal truth: OIL IS CHEAPER THAN STEEL
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a bit confused.. so it's ok to use 'thin' oil? cause the 0 - 40 oil is as thin as I know! only reason I suggested that oil is because it is fantastic and I have noticed the difference in using it years ago coming from the normal 30-50 grade oil.
just wanted to know if it was too early to start using that kinda oil for a newish engine :D
thx!
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In short, I wouldnt start on it yet.
"Also using synthetic on a new oil can "coat" the engine internals, preventing them to be run in properly. I would just use the genuine honda oil which is still very good until at least 50,000 "
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cheebye,
i would recommend you run on the standard oil or mineral oil for the first 5000km.
you can change to full synthetic at 5000km.
don't go crazy on the car, but it is safe to drive it reasonably brisk, and it is safe to take it to redline occasionally. running the engine throughout the rev range will ensure the rings wear in properly.
I would change the engine oil 2 times within the first 5000km. at 5000, change to a full synthetic (remember to change the filter as well) and then do oil changes every 5000km after that.
BTW: what car do you have?
Chris
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thx Kit.. I have a dc5r :D
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yeah what Rufes1 said use the Genuine FEO till at least your 40 - 50k service
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Cheebye, oh sorry, i shoulda read your sig, it said DC5-R.
Why would you want to run Genuine Honda FEO until 40-50,000km and then change to full synthetic? Is the Honda FEO a full synthetic? cos i don't think it is. and if it isn't a full synthetic: DON'T DO IT!
there is a problem with running mineral oil for alot of km's and then switching over to a full synthetic.
what happens is your O rings get worn more due to running for a lot of km's on mineral oil, when u switch over to a full synthetic, it provides better lubrication, and as a result it can get through the the tiny gap between the O rings and the cylinder walls. Means you burn more oil.
but of course, if you just continued using the same oil for the rest of the cars life, you wouldnt have this excess oil consumption problem
it is recommended you change over to a full synthetic early on in the cars life and stick with it, especially with a high revving DOHC Vtec.
keep in mind, its also bad to chop and change brands and viscosity of oils all the time.
Chris
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I want to point out that rufes is running an '80s D15B in his car, not a high-revving B or K series. While it's ok to talk about changing to a "thick" mineral from synth with a GL ED6, it is not recommended to do it with a B or K series motor.
Don't swap between oils if you can help it. Personally, I'd stick with Honda's recommendation as rufes said on early changes - for warentee reasons.
cheebye, I use Mobile 1 5-50 in a car that has 270,000kms on its B16A over 14 years. I dont burn or lose oil with it. I have tried the FEO and noticed no difference in the revving and starting of the car, but the genuine "Type R" branded FEO is cheaper as is the FEO that I get from Hanny's performance.
Can I suggest that before you take a ton of advice from a lot of people that don't own the same car you (me included), that you visit http://forums.clubrsx.com - forums that cater to the DC5 RSX/Type R. You effectively own a RSX (not a real Type R) in everything but word. Go see what they have to say :)
BTW - there is a rumour that FEO is made by Caltex Australia, anyone got a bottle to check?
