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Hey guys
I have this check engine light problem and the distributor cap looks fine. Ive decided to buy a new distributor but Honda quoted me over $700 for one.
One day i searched ebay and came up with this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT
Is this the correct part and would it be ok to get this? (Its from US)
Please share opinions, thanks!
mate if u get a engine check light..
and ur car stil runs?
did u get ur dizzy rebuilt b4?
it's probly the coils..
what makes you say your dizzy is tripping the MIL. what codes do you have. dont get a dizzy unless your 110% sure you need one. $500 later and its only an IAT sensor, youl be spewing.
code 8 when i checked (TDC)
Check the plugs on the igniter inside the distributor for securety.
Check loom from magnetic pick-up for damage or short. (& continuity to [acronym:691d6ffee0="Engine Control Unit"]ECU[/acronym:691d6ffee0])
Seek possible cause of EMF interference.
if you want I can tell you how to test the TDC sensor. do you have a DMM that can mesure Frequency and AC volts and resistance ? are you interested in dainosong it your self ?
im pretty sure i can get a DMM somewhere
TODA AU: Are you just referring to the wires coming out of it? Because it all looks fine.
[acronym:7e1a0cf125="Engine Control Unit"]ECU[/acronym:7e1a0cf125]-MAN: That would be helpful
Are there any other potential problems i should look for?
Yes... If all is ok & continuity is fine, do as [acronym:54787d0ad2="Engine Control Unit"]ECU[/acronym:54787d0ad2]-MAN says & test TDC sensor.
Btw, In adition to plug conector security on the ignitor module, the usual place for problems is as the wires enter/exit distributor & plug/s conector on the side.
get out a multi meter. looking at your distributor connector, the side where the wires go back into the distributor. try to match the wires to the picture bellow.
http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/pics/distrib.jpg
1 = ICM signal
2 = CKP ( + )
6 = CKP ( - )
3 = TDC ( + )
7 = TDC ( - )
4 = CMP ( + )
8 = CMP ( - )
5 = N/A
disconnect the connector and mesure the resistence bettween pin 3 and 7. you should have About 350 ohms to 700 ohms
some honda's also mesure between 700 ohms to 1300 ohms, cpmpare it to the other two sensors. they all should be the same resistence.
if you want to take it to another step, plug the connector back on and back probe the connector on pins 3 and 7. set your meter to ACvolts, start the engine let it warm up. at Idle the TDC sensor should be putting out aprox 2.3 volts at idle and at 2500 rpm 5.73volts
if you can mesure frequency then @idle aprox 48Hz @ 2500 rpm 120 hz. if you can score an automotive ocilliscope you can tell if your getting glitches in your waveform. like Toda Au said about EMF. I hope you understand this.
hey
just an update, i have had to time get in touch with a dmm yet, but over the past week or so, ive noticed that everytime i start the car, the 'check engine' light does not come up anymore (it did before quite a lot)...Also there are some days where the light wont come up for the entire day?
Also if im driving at some constant speed and the light comes on, you feel something (seriously its like the car "farts")..its the best way i can describe it...
Would any of this mean anything? ill get to the dmm asap but just wondering from the info i give, any other possibilities..thanks!
anyone?
TODA AU, ECU-MAN?