hey guys.
i've got a sub sitting at home...and i was just wondering if it was possible to install it into my factory head unit in the accord?
thanks in advance:thumbsup:
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hey guys.
i've got a sub sitting at home...and i was just wondering if it was possible to install it into my factory head unit in the accord?
thanks in advance:thumbsup:
if only the sub you have got is not possible but if you have an AMP as well to run the sub YES is possible
yeah i'd guess i'd have to...any ideas on how i would do it and what amp i should get?:D
if u only want to power your sub u will need a mono-block amp... if u want to power speakers in car aswel u could use a 4channel and bride 2 channels into a single chanel and flick it to Low pass and run the sub off that.. and run speakers off the other.. all depends on how u want to to sound, how much u want to spend.. and what sub u have
Also.. if u want to use the standard head unit you will need a Line level Converter of some sorts.. i sugest a LC6 they have 16v pre-outs so u not loose any quality..
hope that helped
If you want a Sub only, you will lose the rear speakers. The Honda HeadUnit doesnt have RCA outputs. So you need to use the speaker wires that go into the rear speakers/
What you want is a 3 channel Amp (or a 4 channel with 2 of the channels bridged to the Sub).
Have a look at the Audison SRx3 (3 channels). It can power decent 6x9's and a Sub with ease, and has High Level Inputs so you dont need to use a LOC (Line Output Converter). LOC's can degrade the sound quality and introduce noise. I tested a Stinger SALOC in my Euro and it degraded the sound significantly, and introduced pops and alternator noise, and the bass distorted very easily when the HU volume was high.
Installation:
*Install the Amp and power it straight from the battery, put the fuse as close to the battery as possible, and ground it to the chassis in the boot.
*The power cable can route from the battery into the cabin via the existing cable grommit in the middle-passenger side of the firewall, then under the carpet on the passenger side and into the boot. Dont route the power cable on the driver side since thats where the stock rear speaker wires are routed.
*Find a 12v accessory power source (the ciggy lighter or the accessory power plug in the armrest console), and plug it into the Amp's Remote-In.
*Detach the Rear speaker wires, and re-route them into the Amp's high level inputs (or use a LOC if your Amp only takes RCA inputs).
*Install new 6x9's and connect them to 2 channels on the Amp.
*Install the Sub and connect it to 2 bridged channels or 1 internally bridged channel.
*Turn the HU volume up to 35 and slowly increase the 6x9's Gain on the Amp until it distorts the 6x9's, then do the same for the Sub Gain
MTX amp can run off rear speaker input without cutting them off. You simply link off the stock wires with the built in hi-level convertor plugs that come with the amps themselves. They are designed for this purpose to match up with OEM equipment. They also have a 10v Input sensitivity. Very good looking and sounding amp (NOT CHEAP) All these amps cost around $450 - $500 from Strathfield
TA3401 - Mono [4Ohm 200wRMS - 2Ohm 400wRMS]
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...hunder3401.cfm
TA3404 - 4 Channel [4Ohm 50x4wRMS or 200wRMSx1@4ohm-400wRMS@2ohm Bridged]
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...hunder3404.cfm
TA4501 - Mono [4Ohm 250wRMS - 2Ohm 500wRMS]
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...hunder4501.cfm
Best to check out the website. These amps have many features like fan cooling and change colour of illumination and flashing (cool hey!)