Would the y1 line straight up on the y4 block?
What else needs to be considered to get it lined up?
There's many thread on Mini me but theres none on y1 head on y4 block.
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Would the y1 line straight up on the y4 block?
What else needs to be considered to get it lined up?
There's many thread on Mini me but theres none on y1 head on y4 block.
Hey,
Y1 and Y4 are Oz motors only. Most write-ups are American-only Y7's.
I think the y4 is the same block & head as an American Y7, differences lie in the intake and exhaust.
Y4 & Y7 are the same as a Y8 block, with an oil restrictor removed from the block's deck surface. This enables oil pressure to flow into the head to atuate the vtec mechanism.
Y7 motors are very similar to the Y4 oz motors, except the Y7 intake
manifold is a ridiculous 1970's carby style unit. Y4's use the Y8 style
intake manifold.
Some American D16's (US Y5 I think) also use a poor log style
exhaust manifold. Local Y5's have a sweet 4-2 cast header style unit.
Y5 & Y8 have a knock sensor as well.
Y5 use a single valve/two valve style intake vtec system. Cross over is about 3000rpm. This is a lean burn economy SOHC motor. American power ratings for the US Y5 are different to OZ Y5's because of the intake and exhaust differences.
Y8 use small/large cam intake vtec system like the B16/18 family. Cross over is about 4-5000rpm. This is the power version of the D16 family. Power differences between Oz Y4,Y5 and Y8 is minimal.
There's a rumour the D16Y5 use an OEM wideband O2 sensor. Very tuner friendly for aftermarket ECU's. I'm not aware of anyone who has confirmed this, nor taken advantage of it to use in tuning.
I'm unaware of any other differences between Y4, Y5, Y7 and Y8.
From memory, the Y1 is very similar to the D16Z6. I think Lightning motorsport sell an ARP head stud kit which includes 7 D16Y8 head studs and one D16Z6 stud for mini-me swaps. From this you can conclude what is required for the swap.
Also, the cam timing gear is a little different. Use the Z6 cam gear with the Z6 head and the Y8 cam gear with the Y8 head.
Oil pumps or oil pans are a little different too. Again use the pump for the appropriate block.
Lastly, a bit of advice. The reason mini-me's are popular in the states, is that the Y7 is equiped with a very bad intake and exhaust. On local Y4's, we are blessed with better (Y8) intake and a nice cast header style exhaust.
This makes the difference between a Y4 and a Y8 (or Y4 with vtec head) minimal. I think Honda quoted 88kW for the Y4 and 96kW for the Y8.
Honda American quoted 75kW for the Y7.
This is everything, from memory. Send the angry mob around if I got anything wrong.
Nick.
no point doing mini me swaps for 8kw...Quote:
Originally Posted by nd55
better spending the money else where
I think he's wanting Vtec.
hey did you go ahead with swap?? i am doing the same but putting it in eg8.
how did it turn out?
was there an oil control valve in thhe block?
cheers
i got a mini me on my ed6 but the vtec is not working atm because of the speed sensor being cable i need to convert it to VSS.
i ran 14.7 with 2.3 60ft at the creek.
i got mine finished, no oil control valve in the block of a y4. i done a y1 mini me. i am currently running d15z1 ecu. bogs down bad on low revs. goes alright once its reving but under 3xrpm its pretty dead. is this ecu or sould i try to advance timing a bit? if i get a p28 ecu does it ave to be from a vti or are they all the same?(as long as its manual)