Water Leak

Hi All,

Had a look around the car and did a bit of research... just wondering if anyone could confirm the below for me.. Thanks.

- Water Leak: Passenger side around belts = Water Pump?
- Use B16 water pump only for my B16a, B18c7 has too many teeth and spins less...

If changing water pump also change:
- Timing belt
- Tensioner + bolt (Honda Only)

Access to change belt (assuming this isn't engine out job):
- Remove Passenger wheel
- Undo all engine mounts except Driver side
- remove extractors and lower engine
- open timing cover



Search keywords: Timing Belt, Tensioner, Water Pump, Water Leak

yep if the water looks like its coming from the front of the engine then your best bet is the water pump is leaking.
use a b16 water pump.i think b18 pumps are used on high revving b16 applications because of the less teeth,so it spins less at high rpm,which reduces the chance of cavitation (dont know how to spell it) in the cooling system.

Changing the belt and tensioner is recommended just because its a big job to get to the water pump and the belt has to come off anyway,so it just saves on doubling up on labour when you want to change the belt later.it is not absolutely necessary to change the belt and tensioner though,if they are over 40000kms old id prob change them just for convenience.

just undo the engine mount that prevents you from getting the timing cover off.shouldnt be any need to remove extractors or any other engine mounts and all that jazz.

if you are doing this job yourself,ensure you are fully aware of how to keep your cam timing at top dead centre of cylinder 1 when you take the belt off and put the new one on,or you could do some real damage to your engine

Quote:

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Originally Posted by teh_mechanic

yep if the water looks like its coming from the front of the engine then your best bet is the water pump is leaking.
use a b16 water pump.i think b18 pumps are used on high revving b16 applications because of the less teeth,so it spins less at high rpm,which reduces the chance of cavitation (dont know how to spell it) in the cooling system.

Changing the belt and tensioner is recommended just because its a big job to get to the water pump and the belt has to come off anyway,so it just saves on doubling up on labour when you want to change the belt later.it is not absolutely necessary to change the belt and tensioner though,if they are over 40000kms old id prob change them just for convenience.

just undo the engine mount that prevents you from getting the timing cover off.shouldnt be any need to remove extractors or any other engine mounts and all that jazz.

if you are doing this job yourself,ensure you are fully aware of how to keep your cam timing at top dead centre of cylinder 1 when you take the belt off and put the new one on,or you could do some real damage to your engine

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thanks for the info... first belt/chain sorta work on a Honda i'm gonna try.

so no need to lower the engine, just remove passenger mount for access to timing cover area via engine bay and wheel arch?

yeah u should be fine without lowering the engine,only reason the engine would need to be lowered is to get access to undo the crank bolt.but from wat i remember on my b16 there was heaps of room and you can get at the crank bolt easily after removing the inner wheel guard cover bit.

remove extractors? don't think its needed.

just read up the honda manual. Its not hard if you follow the steps.

dont forget to check ur cam shalf seals and crank shalf seal when u change the water pump....i replaced them same time.
good luck!

Thanks all. any civic manual w/ B16a engine will do yeah?

Also I managed to stop the leak altogether or it's very minimal now... removed the 1.3bar rad cap that was on and put the oem 1.1bar one back on.

stupid high pressure caps...

So that cap was causing the leak around the water pump?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by beeza

So that cap was causing the leak around the water pump?

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didn't stop it.
lol.
it made it a bit better.


you will need to loosen the lower passenger mount, to take off the a/c belt.
so either way, it will lower the engine.
have fun with it dude.
lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by beeza

So that cap was causing the leak around the water pump?

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sort off...

water pump seal was weak or going... higher pressure cap prevented pressurised water to go into reservoir hence leak out the waterpump seal is my theory.

don't get it though considering i have buddyclub fan switch and low temp thermostat also... :/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by beeza

So that cap was causing the leak around the water pump?

---

sort off...

water pump seal was weak or going... higher pressure cap prevented pressurised water to go into reservoir hence leak out the waterpump seal is my theory.

don't get it though considering i have buddyclub fan switch and low temp thermostat also... :/

I heard the low temp thermostat puts your car/ECU in a cold air loop,when would U use one?