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OK heres the plan
2000 Dc2-R
1. Wanna get Fugitsubo Power Getter with high flow cat from fussy's
2. Comptech icebox
3. Toda flywheel and Exedy clutch
4. kg/mm springs with stock shocks
5. Depending on cash situation, Toda headers
6. 17's
Waddya reckon??
Love to hear the feedback, thanks.
Sounds pretty phat...with the exception of the 17"s perhaps. Maybe a nice 16" lightweight compromise? No use spending so much on "performance" only to bog yourself down with the latest Tempe special... :)
Also, the stock shock situation will only be a temp. measure. Might as well put the headers on the backburner and score some nice damper adjustable shocks (or just leave the already potent stock DC2R sussy).
Comptech icebox should prove cheaper than branded Mugen, and pull similar gains AFAIK.
:)
EDIT: P.S - Why not leave the stock DC2R rims? (are the new dc2r stockies still made by Enkei?) They're gorgeous, awesome quality and fit the car perfectly!
the 17s I wanna get are only 6 kgs per wheel from Ozzy tyres, 1400 for the set with tyres, and considering 16 inch p1's weigh in at 4.5 kgs I don't see how I could lose that much performance, I just like the look you get with bigger wheels
But your right about the sus setup, I might not lower it as its pretty low stock but we'll see how we go
The stock wheels on the Dc2r are on 15's, just not big enough im afraid, damm nice and light though
Ok and dude, whats AFAIK?
I rather spend cash on 15" higher grade tyre rather than 17" average quality tyres.
And I will put the toda header in 1st priority above the comptech icebox and catback.
As Far As I Know. :)
I think some of the more technical kids will comment on centrifugal force etc regarding the 17"s.
In my opinion the DC shape is optimally aesthetically pleasing with 15" or 16" wheels. 17"s are simply too large I think.
Keep the stock rims!
Yea go for it..
everything sounds good, but prolly get the header first :)
Ozzy wheels are selling you 17's that weigh only 6kg/wheel for $1400 WITH tyres?! I'm afraid you're seriously misguided. The standard lightweight Enkei's weigh about 5.8kg each and 16x7 P1's do NOT weigh 4.5kg - no where near. Your figures are waaaaay out. You'll be lucky if those Ozzy special 17's weigh any less than 8kg. Why do you think people pay 3k+ on just rims? (Volks, mugen, spoon etc.)
Needless to say those 17's will sap MUCH more than anything you can gain with exhaust and header mods. Those lightweight stock 15's are a major part of the reason a dc2r feels so lively and responsive on the throttle with just a 1.8 litres. Put anything but REAL lightweight 17's on and the car will feel lethargic. ie. 4th, 5th gear acceleration on the freeway -> HUGE difference.
Biggest advice is to do things right the first time as joneblaze has advised. Save you heaps of time and money in the end and also get the right results. Of course that's assuming you want to do it right the first time. :)
agrees with above posts!
all the money u spend on getting more power will be negligable by heavy rims and bad handling rubber.
big rims are for cars that have torque.
NOT hondas...we have to rev alot to go...whats the point of getting all these "hi end" goods- when you cant even rev quick enough to take advantage of them with bulky, ulgy ( IMHO) 17's ?
Stick with stockies...or some nice lightweight rims champ :)
Everything else looks good :)
Make your own Cold air intake instead, and stick with the stock rims. With those money saved, you can get yourself those Toda headers you want. Save a bit more, and get shocks+springs or damper adjustable coilovers instead.
Also, doing everything correctly the first time will save you the most money in the end.
w0rd :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by vtml
Sounds like a good list, I would go in this order:
Toda Fly + Clutch
Toda Header
Fujitsubo Cat-back
Then you decide about the rest. IMHO stick with the stock wheels, save money on rims and put it towards a Mugen Intake or an ECU to make the most of your mods.