Setup for my D series

So im after some help with boosting my 5sp D16Y5. Im aware its not the best honda engine but i dont wanna go do a swap like most people do. I wanna keep my D lol. just wantng to know wat a good setup woould be to have on my car. Dont want to be spending any more than $3k and im not after massive gains, just a little extra bite with that PPSSSSHH! :)

Ive read heaps of stuff and just wanna know whats true. for instance... changing my Y5 head to Y8, OBD1 conversion, compression ratioa and stuff like that

So as i said above...pretty much im after this. Boosting my D16Y5 with a budget of $3k looking for a little extra pull. Thankyou.

easypeazy!!!

have u sourced any parts yet?

theres a few in d 4sale thread.

3K easy as

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113285

Because the Y5 is already VTEC, A Y8 head will be a straight swap over. You only want to convert to OBD1 if you plan to run a chipped ecu, which you probably do cause your going forced induction. All you'd need then is an OBD2a/b > OBD1 conversion harness & a chipped P28 ecu with a basemap for your setup. This is a cheap way because alot of the US guys do it like this.

For your turbo, it all comes down to what you want. a fast spooling turbo or a turbo that comes on a little later in the rev range, i can suggest heaps of turbos for you, but i need to know what your preferences are.

& you can deff do this with 3k...

look at the kit for sale here on ozhonda... bolt it on and away you go ;)

id love to buy that kit but i dont have the money atm lol
i plan on working my way slowly up to getting this setup done, but thanks for letting me know :) What does swapping my Y5 head to Y8 actually achieve? Thats what i dont get?

And no i havent got any parts yet as i wanna know exactly what is the right stuff TO get before i go and start buying parts. And as for my turbo i reackon maybe 3,500rpm? but i dont know much about that kinda stuff i wanna have a bit of revs left for the boost :P I was thinking of getting a turbo from a wreckers in good condition, but as i said before im not very knowledgeable and wouldnt know what kinda turbo to grab..

y5 is designed for economy
y8 is classic SOHC VTEC YO

extra power and stuffs

lol thats what i thort but didnt wanna say it incase i was wrong haha
anyone selling a Y8 head than?? and also theres a Garrett T28 Turbo off nissan, comes with actuator, stock nissan dump and oxy sensor for sale on here...would that be the go, ive read that cuz its from a nissan (most being RWD) that there will need to be some modifications made becuase of the way it faces or something along those lines?? anything to worry about..? cheers

i got a y8 head if u want its still on my fked up block

i wudnt bother doin a head swap, all d series engines r made 4 economy neway

but mine being VTEC E, swappping to the Y8 head wouldnt that give me a little more response? and if i plan on boosting it then wouldnt the Y8 head be better?

swap the Y8 head, i would say it flows a little better then the Y5, has a more aggressive lift compared to Y5..

Modifications to the turbo, in order for it to fit in your engine bay. You may be required to clock the turbo, which means your moving the compressor or turbine housing so the compressor outlet is facing downward, making intercooler piping easier to fit...

dont waste your money on doing a head swap just donk the turbo on whatever you got cos your only after a bit extra response, your not going to really notice vtec, because more than likely boost will dominate power.

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Originally Posted by myztery

dont waste your money on doing a head swap just donk the turbo on whatever you got cos your only after a bit extra response, your not going to really notice vtec, because more than likely boost will dominate power.

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Exactly!!

I keep telling people that but they don't listen.....

yeah but if i have the Y8 head on before the turbo then at least i wont be driving around VTEC E lol...get the Y8 head for NA while i wait for my turbo setup...

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Originally Posted by Jiztec

yeah but if i have the Y8 head on before the turbo then at least i wont be driving around VTEC E lol...get the Y8 head for NA while i wait for my turbo setup...

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NO!!

waste of time and money

My old setup boosted D16Y1 SOHC VTec

119kw VTec turned off
124kw VTec on

Driving round ya can't even feel the difference

serz?

im not sure about the on and off but u can deff tell a huge diff wen vtec engages + boost..

then again i havnt tried the vtec on or off thing

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Originally Posted by Fo55il

serz?

im not sure about the on and off but u can deff tell a huge diff wen vtec engages + boost..

then again i havnt tried the vtec on or off thing

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Its your imagination :p

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Originally Posted by VTECnique

swap the Y8 head, i would say it flows a little better then the Y5, has a more aggressive lift compared to Y5..

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AND the y8 runs on 4 valves per cyl before vtec :p

seriously? save ur money, that is all. doing a head swap on a sohc is like put a pod filter on, pointless and u wont feel any gain

but i like my pod filter! LOL
just kidding

Yeah it virtually pointless. As ur SOHC vtec is only ignition i believe so most of it will get sorted by tuning

if you need a turbo im sellin a couple for cheep cheep.

i say have a think about other ways of building ur car instead of making it a straight line warrior with a bolt on snail. maybe invest in a set of coilovers, rims and good tyres and call it a day. or infest urself with oem and jdm goodies to eventually rock around in baller status

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Originally Posted by tekung89

i say have a think about other ways of building ur car instead of making it a straight line warrior with a bolt on snail. maybe invest in a set of coilovers, rims and good tyres and call it a day. or infest urself with oem and jdm goodies to eventually rock around in baller status

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i think the guy just wants some more hp....

he might already have these mods

invest in the B and you'll never look back at the D! LOL

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Originally Posted by Limbo

invest in the B and you'll never look back at the D! LOL

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tru that...

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Originally Posted by Limbo

invest in the B and you'll never look back at the D! LOL

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D's are cheap, reliable, plenty of upgrades, etc... Plus now i wouldnt even bother with a B & go straight for a K swap, but thats if i had the money, i wouldnt be wasting my time on a D, although there is one fella on HMT putting down 436whp with a D, so there is potential in them...

he didnt say they didnt have potential dude...

hes just saying that since he went to his B he never looked back...so did alot of guys that went from d to b...

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Originally Posted by VTECnique

D's are cheap, reliable, plenty of upgrades, etc... Plus now i wouldnt even bother with a B & go straight for a K swap, but thats if i had the money, i wouldnt be wasting my time on a D, although there is one fella on HMT putting down 436whp with a D, so there is potential in them...

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I nearly pissed myself when I saw this put together...

""reliable""
""436whp With a D""

Mate the D blocks pop or warp even with block guards with constant use… running those numbers.

You should find a 436whp D and following its life date to date.

Let us know and will we follow it as well

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Originally Posted by FastFwd

he didnt say they didnt have potential dude...

hes just saying that since he went to his B he never looked back...so did alot of guys that went from d to b...

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he actually said invest in a b, i was pointing out D's can make power too, isnt that the reason why people upgrade to a B?!

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Originally Posted by Lukezen27

I nearly pissed myself when I saw this put together...

""reliable""
""436whp With a D""

Mate the D blocks pop or warp even with block guards with constant use… running those numbers.

You should find a 436whp D and following its life date to date.

Let us know and will we follow it as well

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If you read & watch the vid, he uses a race fuel mixture, on pump fuel he made abit under 400whp. & stock D sleeves are good for upto 400whp. "reliable" is all in the tune my friend. a tune for the street would have lower numbers, a tune for the dyno is to see how much it can take...

that 436whp with 24psi of boost, i agree with you running that constantly would result in failure, this guy probably only ran it that high for the 'big numbers'.

i meant...

If you invest in a B you won't look back at a D, cos you'll gain alot more potential

Also, there is more aftermarket parts for the B series

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Originally Posted by ZeForce

Also, there is more aftermarket parts for the B series

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Yes, abit more expensive aswell. You can build a D-series bottom end for less than $1000...

well how much would a B series swap (all costs included) be compared to boosting my D series. What difference in performance will there be between the 2 options/?

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Originally Posted by Jiztec

well how much would a B series swap (all costs included) be compared to boosting my D series. What difference in performance will there be between the 2 options/?

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I did mine for under 5k

I did all the work apart from the motor swap though and that saves heaps

Heres the difference

My turbo B on 8 PSI
http://www.scruffie.com/luke/car/151.3kw_nm.jpg

My turbo D on 10 PSI
http://www.scruffie.com/luke/car/119.4kw_nm.jpg

Note how fast the D falls out of the all important torque curve (Newton meter)

what i meant was keeping the B series NA with the comparison.
turbo D V NA B....

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Originally Posted by Jiztec

what i meant was keeping the B series NA with the comparison.
turbo D V NA B....

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lol they run about the same on the 1/4 mile funny enough..

D power brand sucks ass for real speed though they can be fast if your already roll'n

what about comparing the $$
boosting the D would be alot cheaper.??

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Originally Posted by Jiztec

what about comparing the $$
boosting the D would be alot cheaper.??

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I boosted my D for about $3500ish till she blew up

I boosted my B for about $5000

Some of the stuff swapped over to my new setup so its not a clear cut on the total costs

what was the cause though?

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Originally Posted by Jiztec

what was the cause though?

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Its a boost D :p

They all blow up in the end...

To much boost 11psi on stock internals but I've never been a girl hahah

con rod straight throw the block

dude why didnt you replace the rods?
ive read that theyre the weakest part of the D

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Originally Posted by Jiztec

dude why didnt you replace the rods?
ive read that theyre the weakest part of the D

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That's correct

BAH why bother...

On to bigger and better things

what were the specs with your D series turbo build?

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Originally Posted by Jiztec

dude why didnt you replace the rods?
ive read that theyre the weakest part of the D

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it would have costed him $2500-3500 for the forged rebuild. For only a little extra he would have figured B series motor instead. Good choice i think aswell.

I went through similar decision. I blew my d series about 5 years ago, i was going to rebuild it but just decided to go B instead.

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Originally Posted by Jiztec

what were the specs with your D series turbo build?

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Stock D16Y1 with the GReddy Kit + bigger injectors and FMIC

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FastFwd

it would have costed him $2500-3500 for the forged rebuild. For only a little extra he would have figured B series motor instead. Good choice i think aswell.

I went through similar decision. I blew my d series about 5 years ago, i was going to rebuild it but just decided to go B instead.

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Exactly!!

Fun while it lasted but one blown move on :)

yeah Ds were meant to be eco cars not performance cars.
Go the B's!

Ks are good but just abit pricey at the moment

how much is it to replace a D $250 for the entire motor? LOLOLOL the cheapest one i saw was $150 for complete motor. if it blows, why replace the part, go get a new motor.

people fear having a D because it was never a performance motor in the first place and is heavily bagged out by fulley sick people. but for the price u pay for the jacked up price B's these days u seriously can have a forged, built, cumming machine D motor for even less. add more money for a turbo kit and u sir have spent enough money to buy a Bseries motor + swap. at this moment D>B budget for budget.

otherwise be cool and go K-series. den u can be maddest ozhonda member alive

ok so buying a running fully functional D after he blew the last one and $500 out of pocket:

He can chuck that back in his car, run it as an NA or turbo but then he will still need to do a rebuild for forged or else the same thing will hapen... If he pays for someone to do the rebuild its going to cost him 2500-3000 for the forged setup to make it run reliable or else the same thing will happen over and over. OR you can buy a b series pull more power out of it, not get board and be alot stronger, also having alot more oportunity to get more power in the future where you wont with the d as you will be stuck on a max 10psi getting 119kw where you can have a fully reliable car pushing 151kw without a hickup and have the ability to push alot more power out of it with more.

In the end 10psi on a d its bound to break sooner or later and you will be going through motors and tbh i couldnt be bothered. I've blown 4 all up. He could poor lots of money into a D and pull alot of power but he will be limited with the amount he can get out of it.

Once you have the B in you car you dont need to spend as much to get more power.

lolololol

how much does a stock bseries engine cost?
how much does a dseries engine cost to forge
both will require a turbo kit

which will yield more power at the end for the same budget and be more reliable? i wonder. very curious to why bseries cost jack loads. something to do wit demand and supply i guess

VTEC YO

yer would be a good comparison.....

I seen a b16a sell the other day for $1500 including box. After sorting it all out it would cost yar around $3000...so lukenzen said $3500 for his.

Say $3200 all up NA b16a2 running in the car.

New d series engine would be 500-600 max then install $1000 all up.

Boosted D with stock internals extra 2500 for low psi turbo setup


B16a2 NA: $3200 (Reliable average power 110hp atw's giving the k's)
D16y5 NA: $1000 (Reliable average power 75hp atw's giving the k's)
D16y5 Boosted High Comp: $1000 + $2500 (Unreliable on 10psi with 158hp atw's)
B16a2 Boosted High Comp: $3000 + $2500 (Reliable on 8psi with 202hp atw's)
D16y5 Boosted Build Low Comp: $1000 + $3000(rebuild) + $4000(bigger turbo setup) (reliable on 20psi with 280hp atw's maybe less or more)
B16a2 Boosted Built Low Comp $3000 + 3000 + $4000(bigger Turbo Setup) (reliable on 20psi with 330hp atw's)

this is sorta all based on info from lukenzens dyno's and some of my costs ive incured in the past.

Luke did 11PSI on a baby Greddy turbo

All this in the last 12mths or so

D to B

you can build a 300whp+ d-series bottom end for about $1000. i wouldnt be arguing this point if i knew a d-series built bottom end would cost 2.5k, id tell this bloke to do a b swap straight up.

stock D's can handle roughly around 220whp , thats 160kws!! for a daily driven civic coupe, thats plenty for me. hell, id even be happy with 120kw atws. for a safe leeway, i wouldnt go passed 190whp on a stock D.

There are people building d's for the simple fact that its alot cheaper compared to building a B. a boosted high comp D would be as reliable as a boosted hi comp b, its all in the tuning & tuning boosted high comps are a little trickier to low comps...

these bicthes always argue bout the same shit ....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by VTECnique

you can build a 300whp+ d-series bottom end for about $1000. i wouldnt be arguing this point if i knew a d-series built bottom end would cost 2.5k, id tell this bloke to do a b swap straight up.

stock D's can handle roughly around 220whp , thats 160kws!! for a daily driven civic coupe, thats plenty for me. hell, id even be happy with 120kw atws. for a safe leeway, i wouldnt go passed 190whp on a stock D.

There are people building d's for the simple fact that its alot cheaper compared to building a B. a boosted high comp D would be as reliable as a boosted hi comp b, its all in the tuning & tuning boosted high comps are a little trickier to low comps...

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Stock D's can't handle 220whp fool

Don't write crap people might read and believe!!!!!!!

220whp is where the stock D con rods brake

Im actually not arguing this point im just puting mind to logic really...three of us here have gone from d to b because of similar reasons. I never boosted my D but i did blow it up lol.

But then again i have blow my B twice but they wernt my doing. Was bad Tuning and bad mechanics. Since i do all the work myself now its been great.

I just think to be honest and not bagging the D because if u can get more for less then i guess thats a good option but to me the B feels alot more solid. Power band is alot nicer and it has alot more torque. You have to push the D fairly hard to give it some good numbers and the more you push a more the more things can brake and most of us here use these cars as daily drivers so we dont need this happening.

bang for buck D is better . THE END

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Originally Posted by Fo55il

bang for buck D is better . THE END

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I don't think anyones arguing that point :p

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Originally Posted by Fo55il

bang for buck D is better . THE END

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I think theres a few puns in there somewhere lol

dseries turbo should be the new hybrids, so economical

Ok so i just purchased the T28 that Kerim had for sale...waiting for post atm.
so i have my turbo, now i need my manifold. My dad can weld so i could make one myself, or i was thinking of buying a greddy or edlebrock manifold - and getting a T3-T28 adaptor flange to fit the T28...

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Originally Posted by Jiztec

Ok so i just purchased the T28 that Kerim had for sale...waiting for post atm.
so i have my turbo, now i need my manifold. My dad can weld so i could make one myself, or i was thinking of buying a greddy or edlebrock manifold - and getting a T3-T28 adaptor flange to fit the T28...

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Ok dont bother with your dad making one, im not saying hes bad but its just not worth the hassle trust me ive been there. Secondly you can go for a cast iron log manifold. If your looking to do it on the cheap this would be your best option + there strong. They wont get your the best power but they are the good for a starter turbo kit, you can always change it in the future. Or if your looking to spend a bit you may be able to find a second hand short ram manifold for 300-600 otherwise new your looking close to $1000 for a good one. Ok word of advice, do not what ever you do get a cheap stainless Bling one off ebay. They will cause you more grey hairs than an 110 year old man. They break, tear, leek, cause the turbo to snapp of the manifold or the waste gate, one of the two. Happened to me back in the day. lol

tbh go with the log cast iron manifold, u can find cheap oneso n here or ebay either way they will be solid as a rock and cheap cheap.

The greddy & edelbrock turbo manifolds have the T2 flange, so you dont need to buy/make an adaptor plate, the T28 will bolt straight up to those manifolds. Are you keeping your aircon at all? if you are, you'll need the edelbrock cast iron exhaust elbow to clear the a/c compressor. Im not sure whether the greddy exhaust elbow fits on the T28. If your not keeping aircon, you maybe able to use a dump pipe from an S13/14/15...

do cast iron its a safe bet it wont break and it will make a decent amount of power for a starter kit, + their cheap.

just go for d series turbo if thats the type of set up you want and what you can afford
seems like you dont know much
so either way its going to cost you more than 3k imo
because of your lack of knowledge and do it your self skills are limited
its a trial and error process for you at this stage
seems like you just want the wank factor more than power etc
so you can open your hood and say i got turbo
just get a mild turbo set up going for now
i bet you will sell the car later anyway

when you say not worth the hassle FASTFWD what exactly do you mean.. do you mean the time...cuz time i wont be worrying about cuz it'll be dad doing it over a period of time..??

and on ebay there is a few cast iron log manifolds http://shop.ebay.com.au/items/__d16-...3286.m63.l1177
it looks like the turbo ifts on top not down low, is that what im seeing here???

I've got a good mate who's a boiler maker and we marked up a design on cad. It was similar to the shitty stainless ramhorn manifold i bought of ebay. We welded it all up reinforced it and it looked great but 3-4 months later it just started to fall apart. It was good Stainless piping, and the welds looked good. i dunno it must of just been to much vibrations or something for the design.

I say just leave it to someone who has been making custom turbo manifolds for years. Its almost an artform. You might have to spend a bit the first time but if you get a really nice one made up. or get a fullrace manifold like i have you wont have to touch it forever. It will be so solid.

and yes those cheap cast iron mani's in the ebay link is exactly what your looking for. As i had mentioned before and others have said also. The cast iron mani's are great bang for buck. There solid, there cheap and they get the job done. Also as 90lan said and i agree with him, i think your more in it for the gizz factor of having a turbo. Your heart isnt set on getting more hp's its more about the noises and the wow factor. Dont take it to heart, im not trying to be a prick, im just behing honest cos i was once only in it for the wow factor back 4-5 years ago.

lol fully agree.

Making manifolds is a very special technique to it all, otherwise ur gonna have alot of other issues on top of the turbo setup.

Fitment, strength, length all play a very crucial role

My dads a boiler maker :thumbsup:

Helps alot

helps but doesn't make him an expert on turbo manifolds

ebay manifold :( dont touch them i have a photo somwhere of one if you want to see what happens when you use one!

if you going to make a custom manifold steam pipe is the way strong wont break and get it coated will last. not a big fan of the stainless ones as they tend to fail after awhile.

and yes you can use a S13/14/15 standard dump on the T28 there is no differnce in them from the 25/25g to the T28 right up the 71R

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Limbo

helps but doesn't make him an expert on turbo manifolds

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Mean good for general welding :p

yeah i know but i had to make sure others knew what i meant, dun wan the nobbs to think its that simple

ahhaha its defiantly not.

yeah of course i want the jizz factor but i also want it to have some balls aswell, im looking at 120kw id be happy with. i want parts that wont break, i wanna do it right...no point having the jizz factor of a turbo and it falling apart in a month, or having commodores beat it...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AMK-C...Q5fAccessories

the hole ontop of the manifold, what goes there? sorry for the extreme noob question >.<

mm r u planning on gettin that?
get a greddy one man

wastegate?

the wastegate. my turbo is a T28 and has internal wastegate so do i just cover that hole if i purchase a manifold like the one above.
So the greddy manifolds are good stuff?

yeah ull hafta block it.

greddy one is reliable, luke had it, i got it, some utha katz hea got it.