So we're curious..
How do you wash your car? What techniques do you use, and what products to do use?
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So we're curious..
How do you wash your car? What techniques do you use, and what products to do use?
Basically the two bucket method with a off the shelf wash and wax (Some crappy brand). Then dry with a synthetic chamois.
Been to lazy to do any correction!
I was my car with this:
http://static.productreview.com.au/p...e747856534.jpg
and apply with this:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg
And chamois it down dry.
I then wax the car with:
http://cf.mp-cdn.net/b8/bc/88f3aa5c1...78e2a70e46.jpg
Once over with a microfiber cloth, and they over the car again until the wax is dry with another micrfiber cloth.
I wet the car with a hose. Wash roof, boot, and hood with a sponge and auto glym car shampoo. Rinse off. Wash sides of car to the moldings next then rinse. Wash from moldings to side skirts next. Last of all the rims. This way you don't pick up road grime and scratch any upper surfaces.. Rinse again, then chamois dry. Hit it with Auto Glym high resin polish, finally Meguires Carruba wax twice :) job done
I wait for it to rain then quickly park the car outside
sounds legitQuote:
Originally Posted by ctx
my cousins fiance owns zoom carwash on canterbury rd so i just take it down there and do it myself using his equipment takes about 5-10 minutes then the workers dry it and clean inside.
two bucket method.
rinse section to be washed with hose; soap up with car shampoo; rinse and repeat for all panels. starting from roof > bottom. after all sections done, i use a chamois to dry it.
i do my alloys first, and wheel arches first.
i have been thinking of using a water blade as it seems like a lot faster way to dry the car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sensei_
You should offload that chamois of yours as every other technique you have is 100%.
Think of a water blade, think of rubber dragging along your paint and unfortunately will mar your paint very quickly :( Waffle Weave Drying Towel or Microfibre Chamois!
thanks for the heads up. was thinking of opening a car detailing yard (operate from home) to supplement my income. since shifts at work are slow, and my personal project is slowing down.
consider attending a clinic for a bit more information and know how on the whole detailing thing. Great for the experienced or even inexperienced :)Quote:
Originally Posted by sensei_
Hi just a question,
I bought some Autoglym paint renovator. I was planning to remove the spider webs and craters I got in my paint.
I did it by hand, and there was little effect. I gave it a good whack. Then with the resin polish, extra gloss protection then wax.
Am I missing something?
Quote:
Originally Posted by DakDak
Hey mate,
To remove any spider webs/holograms etc off the paintwork (unsure what you mean by craters?) you would require a machine correction to remove this. Once this is done you only need to re-apply your protection (Wax/Synthetic Wax) on-going to protect the paint and give it some depth/gloss.
But with the products you used and by hand unfortunately you won't get much of a result due to the hard paintwork! Pre-90 model cars with acrylic maybe, but newer cars unfortunately not :(
Thanks for your quick reply.
Just to clarify, I have a black jdm Nissan Silvia S15 Spec R. Is it true Jap paint is thinner? 1 coat black paint two coats clear?
As for craters I dont really know what they are called, but it looks like rain water droplets that have oxidised or something and left an imprint.
I think I'll borrow my mates buffer, and check out your buffing vids again.
Not really confident.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DakDak
The marks in the paint are called water etch marks, and unfortunately you cannot always remove them 100%. Can be 10-95% once you machine correct the paintwork but its always hard to say how much you will remove.
Ensure you using a Dual Action Random Orbital so you cannot harm/burn the paintwork and take your time. The paint is thinner but you will have no problems for example with the DAS6 doing the work!
Remember to always clay prior to the correction/machine work to remove all contaminants off the paint if you have not done do within the last 8-12 months.
Thanks a lot mate!
Hopefully I dont stuff it up.
All good! Need any help or instructions please just let us know!Quote:
Originally Posted by DakDak
here's what i do/what products i use
1. Hose it down to get the loose crap off (using water)
2. Soap up all the panels from top to bottom using teh 2 bucket method (cheapo soap, i think it's armor all wash and wax)
3. Soap up the windows using the 2 bucket method (same soap)
4. rinse off everything (water)
5. chamois it down, check for bits i missed, resoap and rinse those areas
6. soap up and rinse off the wheels (same soap). I just use a sponge for this, as it seems to work better than a specific "wheel brush"
7. apply wax (megs cleaner wax) and buff off
Sometimes i go a bit further and strip the wax with a little bit of detergent, clay it, then rewax it
there are some minor pollution stains on the front and rear bumper. cant really tell but one you get in close, its like those smudge marks.
can i get this off with a hand polish?
By soaping you mean actually washing?Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
Few suggestions if i can!
You definitely should consider grabbing a good pH Neutral Wash (which is surprisingly cheap) but will also leave a better overall finish after rinsing/drying the car. A Microfibre Wash Mitt or Lambswool, and a Microfibre Chamois (not pva, or leather) or otherwise a Microfibre Waffle Weave Drying Towel.
You only realistically need to clay every 8-12 months and also if you get a product with some good durability (6-10 months protection) you won't need to re-apply or "wax" the car that often. However a natural carnauba based wax would need to be re-applied every 2/3 months :)
Pollution stains? Do you have any pictures?Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarCareProducts
its just some smudges that cant be washed off. very light
smudges? could be great marks maybe? If its black likely could be tar/road grime and maybe use something like Stoner Tarminator to remove!
Get some good protection over the car to stop things from adhering as easily on the paintwork! :)
Cheers for that
I'll invest in a new soap after this one runs out lol.
I don't clay often, roughly once yearly.
i apply the wax roughly once a month, i like the feel of it.
Definitely on the right track then!Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
will do once i have some free time.Quote:
Originally Posted by CarCareProducts
for now, autopia.org is an awesome site for car detailing fanatics.
edit: also want to hear tips on detailing the insides.
for me its as follows:
a) clean dash with nice microfibre cloth
b) use a fine brush (rabbit fur) to get into all the nooks and crannies
c) strip off all seat covers, and get in the seams to get rid of dust/sand/crap
d) pull all floor mats out and do a through vacuum
e) brush the seat rails, and apply some grease to the chair tracks/bolts
f) brush the door gaps and anywhere else i may have missed
Usually when the car is dirty its only a bit dusty or left over dirt from dried up rain.
Rinse car, high pressure house usually gets all the dirt off.
Two bucket method using merino wool mitt with zaino z7. Panel by panel top to bottom.
Dry off the car with a mircro fibre, dont like using a chamois, microfibre takes a while but oh well. wring it out every 5-10 seconds. lol
Every 2-4 weeks i'll wax it after with poorboys nattys blue.
Oh and since i park inside now the wax lasts longer since it isn't always in the sun. So usually 1-2 months i wax now.
I wax twice a month.Quote:
Originally Posted by CarCareProducts
I'm sure it's something a clay or a polish can get rid of. I just don't want to do any abrasive work myself.
Anyone here heard of ironx?
Twice a month? A bit much, or you just drive around a lot?Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
no, but i only have a garage for the 11 hottest hours of the day, during night, i must move the car out so my rents use it.Quote:
Originally Posted by ctx
as a precaution i wax and wash more often than someone who has the privilege of their own garage.
im meticulous like that, im not happy till my car is a mirror
I've had my wax on for 5 weeks, it's not as smooth now but still good. It's always parked outside, with a cover on almost all the time. Haven't washed since. And my car is black. It's holding up but maybe I'm just not meticulous like you :p I've given up on being too particular about it. I take the cover off for 15 minutes and a layer of dust is already visible.Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
Last time I left it in a car port, a painting tipped over and was propped against my passenger side door. I blew a blood vessel.Quote:
Originally Posted by ctx
Anyone had experience with the meguiars smooth surface quik clay kit?
This guy is on a roll! haha. Try the new style waffle weaves, they are at least 40% more absorbent and not as painful haha!Quote:
Originally Posted by PHO
Wolf's Chemicals Decon Gel (De-Ironizer)Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
Carnauba Waxes (True Carnauba Premium Waxes that is) should be re-applied every 2/3 months for a Daily Driver.
Semi Synthetic Waxes (basically, semi carnauba, semi polymer/synethic) should be re-applied every 4/5 months for a Daily Driver.
Polymer Based Products (Such as Zaino, Duragloss, Wolfgang, Wolfs Chemicals etc) should be re-applied every 6-10 months depending on the product itself for a Daily Driver.
Differences, a synthetic will sheet more vs a carnauba and often leaves a very 'sharp' 'wet' 'reflective' finish (wet look) to the paintwork. A Premium Carnauba Wax such as Dodo Juice, Swissvax, Collinite, Autobrite, Wolfgang etc will add more depth and more for the enthusiasts and sometimes make a metallic pop more. You will find lighter colours look better from a synthetic for a wet look finish and darker from both synthetic or natural.
Washing wise we do recommend the following;
2 Bucket Method found here - The reason this is for to avoid returning dirt you are washing off the car back onto the car and separating the dirt into another bucket.
A Microfibre or Genuine Lambswool Wash Mitt - again to capture any dirt in the fibres itself stopping it from dragging over the paintwork.
A Microfibre Chamois (NOT pva, NOT leather as they will mar your paint) - same as above, and gentle on the paint.
Softest option is a Microfibre Waffle Weave Drying Towel to which you can avoid as much marring/damage on the paintwork during the drying process.
A pH Neutral Car Wash is a must, and this is due to it being gentle enough not to remove your wax or synthetic wax protection from the paint but strong enough to wash the car thoroughly and leave it once again glossy and smooth!
Hope that helps you guys a bit. Just remember to replace everything least every year or 6-9 months to make sure you aren't harming the paintwork.
CarCareProducts, what is your advice on swirl and scuff removal?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctx
There are so many DIY's on google and Youtube. Search it up :)
Depending on condition as most cars are no longer acrylic paint you do require usually to machine to correct the paintwork - Check here in our how to.Quote:
Originally Posted by ctx
Can anyone suggest a good product to stop/slow down paint fading or the paint drying out?
Some sort of synthertic paint sealant or wax.Quote:
Originally Posted by infurNOS
So synth is better on lighter cars eh? My cars silver. I just like using carnauba for some reason. lol.
Not necessarily better. Just lasts longer and is more resistant, better beading etc. Can be easier to apply as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by PHO
Yeah i know the differences and such, was gonna zaino coat the whole car, but couldn't be bothered to go buy it. So just kept using the wax since I got tonnes left.Quote:
Originally Posted by aurnob88
Was referring to this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarCareProducts
My .mistakeQuote:
Originally Posted by PHO
Actually no and yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by aurnob88
Synthetics tend to also have a sheeting effect as well, and different sizes of beads but you also can find this in certain waxes as well.
A Synthetic will offer more "Wet look finish" which myself personally i think works best for Lighter Colours as lets be honest, what depth will you achieve from a lighter colour like white?! haha.
If you like waxing, keep waxing! Summer i usually go a wax myself (with an undercoat of duragloss or wolfs underneath) and during winter i stick to synthetic as i am lazy haha!Quote:
Originally Posted by PHO
Anyone know how to prevent Milano red from fading? Any special products?
Cheers
tosies;Quote:
Originally Posted by Tosies
Any good wax or good synthetic product will protect and stop it from fading. Just maintain and look after the paint and it'll look after you!
Suggestions on good products?Quote:
Originally Posted by CarCareProducts
Depends what you like.Quote:
Originally Posted by infurNOS
Take note, if you have not clayed within past 12 months i'd recommend to do so.
Clay Kit
Synthetic;
Duragloss Pack
Wolfs Chemicals Body Wrap
Zaino
Nanolex
Waxes;
Dodo Juice Supernatural Hybrid (Semi synthetic, semi carnauba) - Use Lime Prime Cleanser or Lime Prime Lite Cleanser prior to application is a must! Pack here
Dodo Juice Wax Range in general - Use Lime Prime Cleanser or Lime Prime Lite Cleanser prior to application is a must!
P21S Wax
Swissvax Wax
Synthetic Wax; Collinite 476S or Marque D'Elegance.
Just remember, maintenance is the key thing. You use a sponge you mar the paint during washing, you use a chamois and you mar the paint whilst drying!
A good Microfibre Waffle Weave Drying Towel with a Microfibre or Lambswool Wash Mitt, the Two Bucket Method, pH Neutral Wash so you do not remove the protection off the paint and your car will keep looking good as long as it can!
I would recommend these packs if you wanted to bundle things;
Basic Wash Pack - Includes; pH Neutral Wash, Soft Microfibre Wash Mitt, Soft Microfibre Waffle Weave Drying Towel and 303 Aerospace Protectant for your interior trim/dash/doors etc.
Basic Wash Pack - Includes; pH Neutral Wash, Soft Microfibre Wash Mitt, Soft Microfibre Waffle Weave Drying Towel and Duragloss Aquawax Protection for weekly maintenance and added gloss.
Essentials Kit
And
Total Wash Essentials (full sha-bam kit!)
Hope that helps! :)
Wow thanks for that info.
If i PM or email you some items i need, do you think you can bundle them up for me at a special price?
All kits itself are bundled already so they save you actually quite a lot than individually purchasing them! If you also use "ozhonda" that'll give you 10% discount on anything thats discountable (almost all!).Quote:
Originally Posted by infurNOS
Welcome to email or can go directly online and put your order through if you like www.CarCareProducts.com.au
Looks sweet. still awaiting on my pay to buy the full kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by CarCareProducts
Just wanted to ask, I'm sure you've heard of sealant and wax layering and also using some kind of bonding agent to get the best protection for your sealant.
What would you recommend. I'm one of those guys who loves reading about detailing but when I gotta wax my car every month gives me the shits.
What kind of sealant/sealant bonding agent do you recomend. I saw some products on your site before.
Go the Duragloss Pack as that'll protect for 6-8 months at a time! Very easy, the kit has everything you need.Quote:
Originally Posted by aurnob88
JUst remember, as i said you have to make sure you wash it with the right technique and a good ph wash!
Well aware. Already watched all your YouTube vids and numerous othersQuote:
Originally Posted by CarCareProducts
Get to it then.. weekend is almost here! tgif!Quote:
Originally Posted by aurnob88
Fast Clean and shine.
Aquawax.
What's the go . Difference?
Quote:
Originally Posted by aurnob88
Fast Clean & Shine is a quick detailer to be used when the car is dry as a final touch!
Aquawax is used after you rinse before you dry as another maintenance coat which also like a quick detailer adds depth and gloss. But easier to use in the sense of, spray on whilst wet and dry off with the product on the car.
Best claybar?
PHO;Quote:
Originally Posted by PHO
Preferably one that is from US or ultimately its said the Japanese are the best.
Clay Magic, Dodo Juice and 3M Clay Bars are from Japan - same grade all 3, personally me i prefer the Dodo.
Zaino & Mint Clay Bar is a US Clay Bar which is also very good.
The other "off shelf" clay bars are chinese poly-clay which if you were comparing its like chalk an cheese; in the fact of how easy contaminants come off, more chance to mar your paint with the cheaper clay bars and longevity of the clay bars from Japan & the US.
It is VERY important to use a good Clay specific lubricant however. Quick Detailers contain glossing/sealing agents which is contraindicative to what you are actually doing. The clay is to remove contaminants and remove product off the paintwork, not to actually "seal" the paint! We tend to recommend 49 Shine Clay Lubricant, or Born Slippy Concentrate from Dodo Juice
My car is sealed with Duragloss 105 Polish.
Routine wash i:
-Snow foam
-Rinse
-2 bucket wash
-Rinse
-Dry with microfibre towel
We wouldn't be able to say what it is like as we have never used it, best to ask the seller to see where it comes from.Quote:
Originally Posted by aurnob88
The Mint Clay Bar is $19.95 less 10% discount for members as well, or $27.95 (less discount again) for Lube & Clay bar for reference :)
Any experiences with the 3M clay bar?
how do you feel about claying with normal (carwash) soapy water
Meant to be a good fine grade claybar. SOld by a detailer who used to post on these forums, owns ReflectEffectQuote:
Originally Posted by CarCareProducts
I wouldn't really recommend to do so. Reason is that the washes tend to have "glossing" agents inside like also QD's. As well as if it does dry on your paint you can also create water spotting.Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
3M Clay Bar is a Japanese made clay and is very good. Clay Magic & Dodo Juice also just as good quality is the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by sensei_
Off record, i think clay magic and 3m are identical, same colour, same packaging and grade and both from japan. Bit suspicious!
If its from Dave contact him and ask him, he is very good and chooses his products carefullyQuote:
Originally Posted by aurnob88
Quote:
Originally Posted by DvS-
Perfect! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: :thumbsup::D
If only we could all afford snow foamQuote:
Originally Posted by CarCareProducts
Haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by aurnob88
But you do not need to use it what so ever.
I myself, 2 Bucket Wash with currently Dodo Juice Born to Be Mild (one of my favs), MF Mitt and a MF Waffle Weave to Dry and thats my weekly! I snow foamed the other day for some new website photos, first time in about 8 months!
Over the this weekend I attempted restoring the paint work on my car.
Got a decent result but I want perfection.
Using my mates 240mm orbital, I used Meguiars medium cut and autoglym super resin polish, then meguiars ultimate wax.
I can still see spiders webs but they're not as obvious.
Im thinking of using a wool bonnet to cut the paint deeper, because the two bonnets he gave me, a microfibre one and something that I thought was wool didnt really work.
Good idea or not?
just googled snow foam...wow.
Maybe time for a rotary or yeah a more severe cutting pad and compound or one of either . And try a filler mabeQuote:
Originally Posted by DakDak
same. and here i was thinking how those guys in malaysia get their cars to be white with soap suds before hosing it down. now i know.Quote:
Originally Posted by infurNOS
always learn new stuff everyday
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6vcA...DC0JAJ_rAgAafgQuote:
Originally Posted by sensei_