Don't think we have a dedicated Kswap thread yet... a place for everyone to share their knowledge/experience/thoughts.
Plenty of info on the swap etc on K20a.org etc, but would be great to see more local stuff
Go for it
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Don't think we have a dedicated Kswap thread yet... a place for everyone to share their knowledge/experience/thoughts.
Plenty of info on the swap etc on K20a.org etc, but would be great to see more local stuff
Go for it
B > k
end thread.
140kw with oem parts is pretty nice in lightweight chassis.
i just hope price in parts would go down
just to contribute:
Swapping Cams - Timing chain - K24
on the k24 you line up the dots on the cam gears between the two colored marks on the chain
on the k20 you line up the dots on the cam gears right on the colored marks on the chain
k20 chain has a total of 3 marks
k24 chain has a total of 5 marks
DO NOT LINE THE TIMING CHAIN DOTS ON ONE LINK...line the dots in between LINKS...this is for the k24 block only
1. Set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC). Align the TDC mark (A) on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer (B) on the engine block.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u...0Swap/1-10.gif
2. Set the camshafts to TDC. The punch mark (A) on the variable valve timing control (VTC) actuator and the punch mark (B) on the exhaust camshaft sprocket should be at the top. Align the TDC marks (C) on the VTC actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u...20Swap/2-6.gif
3. Install the cam chain on the crankshaft sprocket with the colored piece (A) aligned with the punch mark (B) on the crankshaft sprocket.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u...20Swap/3-5.gif
4. Install the cam chain on the VTC actuator and the exhaust camshaft sprocket with the punch marks (A) aligned with the center of the two colored pieces (B).
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u...20Swap/4-5.gif
Agreed ^
Such an expensive swap still
agreed such and expensive swap with 8-15k give or take for a k swap
8-15k for a b series will get you wrapped around a pole,
though i could imagine the torque and realiabilty,
do most of the k swappers out there go for, hybrid racing parts, ktuned ? etc
what is the best value for money ?
While i've been collecting parts for my swap, I've found I've been liking the Hybrid Racing products quiet a lot. HR tend to do alot of the hard work regarding R&D on new Kswap specific parts ie: shifter box/cables etc, whereas Ktuned always seem to be that one step behind, often releasing their own version of a HR designed product.Quote:
Originally Posted by na-118
Price wise, fairrrrly similar I guess, from what i've experienced. You've pretty much got the choice of using OEM parts cheaply, or fork out for the nice equivalent parts from HR/Ktuned.
Both are awesome quality though, I think Hybrid Racing.com and Ktuned.com are my two favourite sites these days lol...
Using a mix of hybrid racing and Oem mostly. Towards the 15k on a k24 swap gets u some nice goodies with it.
U can do the swap cheap or pay the bit extra for a much better set up. Not a fan of 5sp or euro 6sp swaps.
I thought about building the b but the k is a better platform, better Oem power and torque with much much more potential plus newer and reliability
Yup, that's pretty much sums up why I chose to Kswap exactly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cartoon
15k with the nice goodies.. does that include labour to install the donk, wiring etc in?
does anybody have diagram, video of how the vtc 50 degree works? interested to know,
http://www.hondata.com/tuning_k24a2_tsx_engine.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by na-118
not video
but explains 50 degree vtc somewhat
hope it helps
thanks petrol
I find both hybrid-racing and k-tuned are good companies within the K series/swap community.
I wouldn't say k-tuned is one step behind hybrid-racing because they have a lot of quality parts hybrid-racing does not have. vice versa.
Both companies have great products. Quality stuff and self explanatory on how it improves functionality for the user and not to mention the added bling.
Warning! both companies and their products could do damage to your wallet.
^ i agreee, i had some ktuned parts, was very good quality
although was kinda pissed they sent me wrong parts when i needed to install my fuel rail kit asap.
was all done and rectified though
Na-118
My 15k was not with install but included all wiring, kpro, box and rebuild with after market LSD, clutch and fly, k24a2 (or what ever was the good k24 lol) full rebuild with a mix of after market and Oem type r parts, little bit of head work and a better intake set up, fuel set up, ps set up mounts shafts etc.
I spent close to 20k on my k24 swap. All included. GB, motor, bolt on's, sub-frame, ECU, wiring etc etc That was including my Discount on HR products and doing it all myself :/ mind you, i didn't hold back on some stuff like the gearbox for example. My gearbox is worth more than my engine and everything on it lol
While I'm posting in here, has any one else experienced problems with TPS sensors and Kswaps? aftermarket or OEM?
Gear box is a killer. U can pick up a k24 for like $1200. Type r box is like $3000 lol.
For me another good thing is I track my car a bit. I blow the motor it's like half the price of a b18c7
some good info, thanks cartoon, if you were going for example a type r box which go for about 2-3k at the moment, wouldn't you use the k24 box and get a gearx gear set or am i missing something here?
are you even going K series powered?Quote:
Originally Posted by na-118
am i missing something here?
Na I'm actually running an fn2r box which is cheap, modified the box a little to work and using aftermarket LSD.
Also why buy a box that's geared all wrong, pull it apart and build it up. That's pricy alone
I just went for DC5R box
hmm, for example DIY then,
obviously you can aquire a k24 with box for about 1250
atleast you know it's pretty much a brand new reconditioned box with new gears bearings etc?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cartoon
not going k series baubag, just want to ask for myself and others that want to get into k series or want to know more about it.
:)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
Mate of mine spend bout 12k installed. K24 with AC no ps yet, but with 50deg vtc, kpro v3, 5spd, stage4 clutch & flywheel, decent headers, ekk1 hasports.
Oem and aftermarket combination parts were used - axles, shifter box, linkages, 70mm TB, port matched IM etc.. 150fwkw v1 Tuned on E85, 2.5inch zorst..
Apparently with 3inch would have prob gained more.
In the otherside the country, my k20/24 is still work in progress, been sitting in my garage in QLD for over 6months.. Wrk commitments got most of my time :(
was his name Ryan?Quote:
Originally Posted by XB-16-AX
which one v1 or v3Quote:
Originally Posted by XB-16-AX
V1 tune.. V3 kpro.. LolQuote:
Originally Posted by na-118
Nah he used to be on OH as IV73CI..Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
Good too see you got your acc back..
what you laughing about i'm only learning mate .
Quote:
Originally Posted by XB-16-AX
Awesome result from a stock motor! I'm aiming for similar results with my motor, only difference between setups is I'll be running K20 oil pump, should free up 1 or 2kw lolQuote:
Originally Posted by XB-16-AX
dont think he was laffin at you, seems like laughing on the fact that hes using v1 tune on a v3.Quote:
Originally Posted by na-118
dat paradox
wat
Yeah I thought this also.Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
http://www.blotisfoo.com/images/thep...tersellers.jpg
Roger that!Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
Cool man, he was going to put a k20 oil pump, but he ran out of time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
Ive got a s2000 moroso pump on my k24 block..im just deciding on whether if im going to do the internals whilst the block us open..
Let us know how u go once you put your parts together and well go for a cruise once im back on the gold coast..
What are you looking for from the setup? Want to rev a bit higher with that K20 head? or jsut after more compression?Quote:
Originally Posted by XB-16-AX
Yeah mate im keen as for a cruise when you're back in town!
Yeh just looking at being able to rev abit more for track use.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
And the internals just for mire of stability and reliability on constant high revs..
Then if i get bored of NA, then I might put a turbo on it.. Just depends, but for now i need to put the pieces back together.. Oh wells..
What intake setup have u chosen?
We trialled fitted a SRI on iv73ci k24 and this time we can hear the vtec crossover louder and sounds so much linear .. Ill see if i can take a pic.. Its just a temp setup but doesnt get hot too from where we located the filter...
ryan pls
One thing I have noticed with k swaps. All the big built motors seem to get sold
Soon after their built. Could this be due to drivability issues?
I'm only looking at 150ish kw and want more of a reliability thing
One thing with most K swaps ive driven/been it etc..
They always smell like fuel .... i guess its because most people just leave the breather line of the fuel lines open to atmosphere and dont run the stock charcoal canister
myself included , silly me this was one of the things i hated about my ol rex and the solution is really quite simple
if i were to get/build another k swap car here how id do it.... i guess a lot of hard parkers would think this is just engine bay cluter but there is many ways
to hide it. And dont give me "oh my car doesnt smell and i dont run any of this " because trust me it does...... the smell usually comes after a drive and when that whiff comes
prepare to get a nasty ass headache.
http://www.crxkswap.com/Images/Sourc...rated-1024.jpg
Good post Sami ^^
Just use braided lines and it will look good anyway :p
not all braided line, needs to be teflon lined
otherwise additives in fuel will still permeate out on rubber hose
just like those brown layer of shit on our oem rubber lines
+1 to teflon lined....
i gotta get me a kswap again but i want all the little luxories lol like not smelling like shit after a long drive,
We've been using Hasport mounts since our 1st K20A swap back in 2004.Quote:
Originally Posted by na-118
Reliable product , Good customer service
K Tuned , Hybrid Racing , Karcept
They are all good products with similar price range
Quote:
Originally Posted by EG5
doesnt seem that good thereQuote:
Originally Posted by z10
did ktuned send you guys any replacement?
Guys be mindful of revealing too much info as some of it is valuable and can be used for personal gain,not to be given out freely.
People charge for some of this info you are sharing
I don't think were telling everything here :) but we are not sharing anything that can't be found on k20a or if u talk to hybrid either.
There are some things only my builder and I know about my set up :)
Clint, nothing special has been revealed here..
the amount of kswap info found on this forum is minute compared to k20a.org
thats what forums should be all about, sharing information to members. we are car enthusiasts after all.Quote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
thats what i believe.
even hytech shared info regarding k series oil cam cap modification which is crucial for road racing.
i just think witholding information is not what car enthusiasts should do.
from enthusiasts, for enthusiasts.
dolan, plzQuote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
hit the nail on the headQuote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
Sorting out with them now.Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
road race is not racing on public road, its what they call circuit racing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
sorry for the confusion, i shouldn't have used american terms.
Seriously why even write this. If you have the knowledge and are willing to share then good for everyone.Quote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
Agreed..Quote:
Originally Posted by DNYALL
hey guys, has anyone had problems with running e85 with k series, for example fuel lines being eaten out and that
fark, legit question.Quote:
Originally Posted by na-118
I'm not a fan of this for this reason.....
also the way it absorbs moisture.
i'm running e85 on my turbo setup in my eg, hasn't caused any dramas yet, thought it's probably bound to happen, i also drive it daily
where do you fill up?Quote:
Originally Posted by na-118
moorebank / casula caltex
i've been on E85 for almost a year now, no issues yet plus Kswap.
friend pulled his injectors out of his mirage on e85 setup.. looked like some seals were melted or somewhat..
aparantly caltex has some additive that causes this ? (and is not for sale for this main reason in two other states) but yeh. heads up
Fck apparently earls performance sells special hoses to suit e85 and possibly O rings for injectors too.
Worth a try for those who uses e85.
United petrol stations sells pure e85 unlike caltex they change the blend depending on seasons etc.
NOT all united petrol stations, only selected ones as i have come across this at my local united service station.
there are other hoses out there from other manufacturers that can support e85 look into it,
but for injector seals not sure yet,
Got a Q,
Is it possible to remove and refit another subframe to an EG or EK without removing the engine out?
yes there is, support the motor with lumps of wood
Anybody have experience with getting the speedo to work using K20Z1 transmission? Using Dakota Digital SGI-5 to convert the VSS signal
We used it all the time to covert the 05 Type S and Accord euro gearbox speed signals. Great unit for accurate speed readings
what are stock k24a3 with the euro six speed worth with hondata and and e/h/i on a base tune without labour
im looking to run in the high 12s on a eg hatch.
high 12's,go boosted BQuote:
Originally Posted by jayeg
i dont want turbo want to try NA
If you have a look under my trader thread, i got a K24a3 package for $9750 (without installation). That packages includes everything required for the swap and is guarantee to make 140-145kw at the wheels.Quote:
Originally Posted by jayeg
i dont want to spend that much i see you got all brand new parts and extra bits i want just a basic budget setup im looking to try and do it
for between 5 to 7gs max i already have the brakes and sussy side done
come on guys give me a price on a basic k24 setup without labour
Your lookin about 7-9k just on basic parts needed to get going.
These are using oem parts and no upgrades to clutch/flywheel or injectors etc.
Best bet would be buy a k24 motor/gbox/ecu/shifter cable & box and engine charge harness. Easy $1.5-2k
Then buy yourself the stage 3 ktuned kswap kit 3-5k.
Then u will need your exhaust welded up to meet with the headers to cat. $150-250.
If u dont want to use oem ecu, then kpro v3 + tune = $1.8k
Plus new belts, oil, coolant, spark plugs $250
Plus other misc fabrication $300
Engine Mounts $500-600. ( this may vary depending which mounts u buy as additional parts will be required. I.e dc/eg subframe and s/rack, fsb etc)
Ac/ps delete kit $300+
crv bracket $100
Optional
+ engineers cert $800-1k if ur in syd
+ bigger rotors & better pads $400
Then install it yourself.
These are just approx figures prices would vary.
The ktune kswap kits should have majority of parts u will need, driveshafts, harnesses, fuel kit, rad hoses and sensors, intake and headers
Hope these figures have helped out abit.
Benson has given you a price already. If you look around real hard, and if you have some luck you can probably knock ~$1k off that price by sourcing everything yourself and substituting some of the 'brand name' parts with used oem.Quote:
Originally Posted by jayeg
At the end of the day, it is still a very expensive swap.
Question about the IACV for K20. Mine has been playing up lately specially since the weekend. Idle is screwed.
What tool if any, have any of you used to unscrew the 5 sided star screws that hold the electrical plug to the actual valve?
Went to repco, supercheap and sydney tools but did not find anything.
torx screw set, try bursons or total tools or ebayQuote:
Originally Posted by --drew--