so if they left the crank bolt out? its the tuner that makes up for it?
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finger tight will make it
I'd appreciate if you two keep that to PM.
Mods, please delete.
sorry to have sullied your thread with such juvenile behaviour :(
getting upset are you?
oh god, another OH thread about to be ruined!
in the interest of the topic...
what's the max rpm a stock b20 is good for and what would be needed to take it to around 8,500?
is b20b8 or b20z better in terms of both performance and compatibility?
also, on a built and camed (sk2 pro1) b16a2, would be worthwhile replacing the b16 bottom and ctr pistons with a stock b20 bottom (maybe with high comp pistons)? or is that just asking for dramas by using a built head on a stock bottom? and i assume i can't reuse b16ctr pistons in a b20??
why do people keep mentioning $300 B20 blocks and $1-2k b16 half cuts?
if you know why i can get either of these at those prices PPLLEEAASSEE let me know!
We have taken stock B20 rods to 8800rpm's. We capped the rev limit to 8600rpms though. I would run a set of H or I beams forged Rod for piece of mind.
Just use a b20b8...
And yes, it would be worthwhile to change your b16a bottom end to 2.0l. A stock B20 bottom end spec will run fine with your headwork. Check out phamburgers b20vtec. Thats running a V1 spec bottom end with headwork. Its making over 130kw with less than 10:1 compression
CTR psiton wont fit the b20, different bore size (81 compared to 84mm)
correct me if i am wrong, but B20B8 specs = B20Z specs