called obrien and got quoted $480 for replacement windscreen :(
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called obrien and got quoted $480 for replacement windscreen :(
sounds about all right
i paid 660 for mine from a auto glass repairer. obrian wasnt able to get windscreens back when i was looking.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonske
Does anybody know what brands make aftermarket lowered springs for EP3r and where I can find them? So far Ive only been able to locate EIbach springs.
plenty, u can go spoon, RSR, Tein, etc.
Couple of the guys from work import all their bits through these guys.
Heres the spoon springs they have for EP3
http://www.nengun.com/spoon/progressive-springs
Also friend just showed me this
http://auctions.nengun.com/honda/civic-type-r-ep3/1
Some sort of Japanese ebay for car bits ?
Nice to know some of those bits are out there
im sure jdmconcept stock some spoon springs too if your in sydney and want to get it more local.
has anyone had a good spring and shock combo on an ep3 before? im looking to close the gap between the guard but would like it to keep as close to the shock comfort as possible??
thats some nice bits out there, has your mate bought stuff off that auction site?Quote:
Originally Posted by qldhonda
Spoon or tein to keep it reasonably comfortable! Most if not all coil overs will cause harder ride.
my fd has RSR springs on stock shocks and there ride firmer than stock but not harsh.
does this cause any problems for the shocks in the long run?Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
yeah a couple of times( he has only ever bought skyline parts) , he got some guy from the local uni to do all the buying as his computer was setup for the language and could understand itQuote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
depending on how low the drop is from the springs, this will shorten the life of your OEM shocks. Since they are compressed all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by tang(oO)
well im probably not looking to lower it much at all just to close the gap.Quote:
Originally Posted by blk_shadow
would anyone know any shocks that are similar to the stock ones? or perform abit better but still have the comfort?
hey guys! i need help, i got a 5zigen exhaust but its freaking louddddddd. what exhuast do you guys recommend, not too quiet but i want it to roar when i fang it, headers + cams make it extremely loud by the way guys. thanks
mugen tl
what mm is out stock exahust guys? 60mm?
Agreed Mugen Twin Loop.
Fujitsubo or J's good too :D
got bored so painted my wheels green, will post up once im done, looks pretty sick LOL
oh! post asap please!!
im prepping to do this as well!
hey guys, question about Kpro/K100.
has anyone used KPROed or K100ed non JDM EP3 stock ECU? eg. AUDM DC5R Kpro ECU.
i wonder if they would work on our cars?
thanks
takata?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen_B16B
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
hey phil,
i purchased a stock ecu from the states with a kpro on it so its just a direct swap. It is the acura rsx ecu aswell. Was told by my tuner that it will work.
thanks Steve. however i wonder how stock the immobilisor would work....
the reason i'm looking at K100 or Kpro is that i have difficulty finding someone to code my key. if i have to spend $400 to get a key from Honda, i might as well spend a little more and get ECU and disable the damn immobilisor and spend $30 for a normal key.
also where did you find used ECU? honda tech? so you took the kpro off the RSX ecu and put it into your EP3 ones?
btw how is your inverted tie rod ends? still good and no play?
thanks
ooo thats right the facelift had immobiliser ! hmmm im not sure then what will happen. Best bet mate is talk to a tuner. My ecu kpro combo i bought off someone on this forum if ur interested in knowing send me pm and ill let u know who it is. Best talk to him cause he seemed to know his stuff, i, however, am trying to remember everything off the top of my small head >_< heheheQuote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
also the inverted rods are good man ! havent had any problems so far. Went to track day and i drove my car very hard, i even did a 360 with nepolian in the car hahaha having almost pissed myself i have to admit it was fun lol.
lol u hoon !Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen_B16B
so u hooned on a track lolQuote:
Originally Posted by SuperSteve
ps. PM sent. thanks heaps
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
question... 18" or 17"
17"
Cheaper tires
Ride quality is a little bit better
sweet... now another question.... re30 or advan rz and does anyone know where i can grab them for a good price?
i run 18s and love them. tyres are a little more ex but i dun care lol
id go Advan RS or RZ. get 8" wide and + 37 offset. i think the RZ is GTR style (aggressive concave spoke design) too.
is +37 the max offset with having to roll or anything? can u run 8.5 with +37?Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
i'd say so. running 8.5 wide will need 225 tyres.
8 wide is the max width for 215. if u run 17 x 8 then u can use 215/45/17 and your speedo won't be out that much.
isn't the speed only affected by the diameter of the wheel? not the width? correct me if im wrong
yeah but if u stick with the same profile then the diameter will increase = speedo out.
to go 225, u'll probably need to get odd size tyres like 225/40/17 = cost more $$
i'm so tempted to get RZ in 17 x 8 +37 as i have a set of 215/45/17. but i should do Kpro first lol.
yeh the rz are sweet... like i dont know if i spend money on rim i would like to know that im getting the right ones. i dont wanna get 17 and find out they look too small or 18 would just look way better or something.
wanna get a kpro down the track too... SO POOOR......
what size woudl this guy be running?
http://www.vividracing.com/forums/ga...9/P7310016.JPG
http://www.vividracing.com/forums/ga...9/P7310018.JPG
alright i just found out for vivid that they were running 17x8 +37.
There u go. looks hot as. great offset!!!
i love my 18s and i personally don't think it's too big. but i wish my offsets are better than they're now.
RE30's are lighter than Advan RZ's and the dish makes the wheel look ten times better imo. That concave spoke to the rim sh*t is a weak look.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...p3_re30_03.jpg
yeh re30 do look damn nice too...
just a teaser til im finished :P
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...6/IMG_3409.jpg
nice +1
Quote:
Originally Posted by tang(oO)
any one knows what body kit is this??
Any PRB/C/D will work with K100/ProQuote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
No, more round the 50-52mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen_B16B
Weak sauce :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Perry
Fairing better.......TODA ftw!Quote:
Originally Posted by pair08
On of my little highlights of the day and pissing the Audi A5 off!Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSteve
Hooning on track is called racing! hence when wannabes do it on the road is called hooning.Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
17x8 and 18x8 35+ are more common and is a very good fit for our EP3's. Have tried a set and sits just flush!Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
the US ep3 access lips, imo the front looks like dirt but the rear looks ok cause makes the car more aggressive with the diffuser look from the back
we all know ur the biggest hoon here nepolian :P by the way im gonna beat u at wakie next time mate ! !Quote:
Originally Posted by Nepolian
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbird
Newcomer ITRDC2 is an unknown quantity at this point ITRDC2's Avatar
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i've been dreaming like forever for this spoiler with this color way!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen_B16B
updates???
Hi guys,
noob question..whats the best way to shine/polish up the front mesh grille near the type r emblem & honda badge so that it becomes dark again, it's faded from the sun atm and its annoying. btw green rims look good :D
Hey guys,
Anyone down for an eastern creek run tommorow night? Im going with some mates would be great to see a few other ep3's there :) As most of you probably know its $50 plus you need an ADR approved helmet, long pants, jacket, closed shoes. Anyone Keen?
just wanna say guys, i really miss my car back home.. but there's so much inspiration here in the states though ;P
Anyone use or know of any lowering rails for the stock EP3 Recaro's?
whatsup guys. looking to buy a ep3r with low kms in CW in melbourne. seen a fair few on carsales. any suggestions/tips?
any help would be much appreciated. cheers guys
there is one on firesport, looks great, but black
I have a vision one. Lower by 5cm and it feels great. I now see out from the middle of the windscreen.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jibz
My fd has a unknown brand (came with car) and it's another 3 cm lower. Feels even better to drive but needs to be careful for parking.
i finally received my car last nite. the vtec on the k20 engine is insane!!!! pulling from 2nd gear i was able to get to almost 100km/hr before the fuel was cutting out at the rpm limit - made this really cool revving sound :) so happy with it so far!
tunacnt - definitely recommended. tips from my experience:
low kms are not that unusual as ppl in Japan don't drive their cars very often (as they got huge taxes / tolls to pay) but definitely check the logbooks. I got a 2004 ep3 just imported from japan with 23000km's and they all legit. Best way to check the wear of the car is by looking at the insides of the recaros and the steering wheel. In my one they were in A1 condition but of course there's other things you can check too (dont ask me though :S)
a note about CW - there's a fair few in australia especially the pre-FL (01-03) black and red are rarer. On the upside CW tend to go cheaper than others because of this.
Question for FL owners - do you find that when you press the lever only the seats fold forward but do not move forward?? (When passengers come in and out) To get enough room I need to manually move the seat forward on the front lever and then fold the seat forward. (ps this does not apply to the pre-FL)
Mine seat is the same and I thought FL and pre FL have same recaro rails.
Btw Honda only made FL EP3 in CW and silver (only on c package). They didn't make any red and black FL.
Yeah I received a 01 owners manual from Shogun and on that one theres a button you can push at the bottom right hand corner of the back seat that you use to push the seat forward so rear passengers can get in and out. I looked around for 20mins and couldnt find anything. While you're online whats the C-package mean? Is that just exterior upgrades like back windscreen wiper?Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
I seriously doubt our seat is diff to pre FL other than trim colour.
C stands for comfort and include additional features such as rear wiper, rear privacy glass, folder mirrors.
The majority EP3s are c package.
I'll scan the page I got for you next week. It was just in the illustration/diagram it clearly showed a button on the bottom corner of the seat that is used to bring the seat forward. Anyways its all good at least I know this occurs with another FL EP3 - I'll just make sure no one on roids steps foot inside my car :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
Thanks for the info abt the meaning of C-package I was too lazy to get a google search happening...
just a silly question, how do you go about changing the low beam blub on a FL ep? Do I have to remove the bumper or headlight?
Just saw an ep3 near burwood westfields. Had black rims with a chrome lip and possibly a
mugen wing. Any1 here?
turn the wheel one way and then undo the clips to the splashguard and change it through there.Quote:
Originally Posted by EGG80X
thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by i-vtec
was anyone at OG lastnight? spotted ep3 followed by another ep3 followed by an s2k...nicee
fujita CAI arrived today .. very cool!
whats the poll -
am i able to install this myself, or should i get someone else to do it? does it need to be hoisted? can i do it through the splash guard without taking off the bumper?
excited! and if anyone needs a short ram, i now have one spare lol
I've got a Fujita CAI on mines.
I installed it myself. I've never EVER installed a CAI nor pulled off my front bumper before, and it took me 3 hours to do it all. I had to remove the old stock airbox, and take off my bumper to install it. Also had to cut a bit off from the plastic fender for the pipe to go through.
good choice, i have the same one and u'll love it.Quote:
Originally Posted by GEG
i DIY it, a friend to help out would be nice but not a necessity; i installed it in my garage (no hoist). well i took off the bumper but i think you might be able to do it from the splash guard with the front left wheel off.Quote:
whats the poll -
am i able to install this myself, or should i get someone else to do it? does it need to be hoisted? can i do it through the splash guard without taking off the bumper?
look out for the grounding wire, i put some electrical tape on the intake pipe so they will not touch each other. also connect the vaccum hoses first before hooking up the pipe at the throttle body as it will be quite deep and hard to reach from either directions.
otherwise quite straight forward. just follow the instruction.
wow sounds pretty simple, just a bit of time then!
thanks phil and 'p3p5y', that was just the sort of heads up i needed
alright, tonight the show begins, i will update afterwards with some pics :)
incase anyone was wondering, i bought it from the states, 300aud including shipping, which took 11 days. much cheaper than local.
I'll help ya do it ... I'll pick up the cutting bit for my "dremel" to cut your splash guardQuote:
Originally Posted by GEG
I will also be taking your short ram for my s2k kthxbai
thanks to ^^ - finally got it all installed!
took us 3 hours, including deciphering the instructions and parts, breaking the dremel bit, eating rice, putting it back together, and finally - dropping a socket down my engine bay on the final step - putting back on the engine cover.
it hasnt dropped out yet.
after all that work, could not be bothered letting her idle, it's too late, and my exhaust too grumbly for the neighbours. check back tmrw for an update lol
thanks again jbird!
ladies and gents, review is in.
after finishing up last night at about 1230am, having started at 930pm, i wasnt bothered to give it a test run.
so today, i let it idle for 15 mins, then took it for a light spin to uni. note - the only other major mod currently is a fujitsubo power getter exhaust (axle back)
morning run:
immediately felt that the revs were lifting easier, and quicker, it was noticable because my usual run to the speed limit left me about 8km/h over, so i could really feel it taking off. the car has much more of a sucking sound on quick bursts.
didnt want to burn it, but gave it a quick hit on the last street towards uni - 6000, 7000 - ***** wut? no changeover sounds.
evening run:
after thinking about it all day, pretty disappointed really, i brought my car down to the carpark to meet a mate, so he could check it. took it for a spin, no changeover. at this point i still thought maybe it was cold, or low oil, or otherwise.
keep in mind that before the CAI, i had a short ram on. and while the changeover was VERY loud, it suffered from heatsoak, and i didnt like the idea of hot air in the engine. + defect chances.
so then i took off for a long drive, over the harbour bridge, and back. what i noticed - the change over sound seems to come in later than before, but is almost completely unnoticeable. in staying that, it seems to pull hard, and with more of a scream from the engine, like it is suddenly urging forward. But that is only if i push it to 7000+. before that, theres no real difference, besides being in a high rev range = louder than normal driving. so i need to push it hard, which i dont like to do while daily driving.
i took it through a tunnel, and the roar is definitely strong, but it isnt as exciting as the short ram.
so, what have i come up with. maybe it is installed wrong, leaking or otherwise. maybe my oil pressure is low. i dont know.
phil - any advice?
i might pull it apart and have a look again, because it doesnt sound right!
You sure it's not because you're so used to your existing SRI being so loud?
I came from a stock airbox to the Fujita CAI and you can really tell when VTEC engages as it was very loud.
Perhaps you need to reset your ECU?
disconnected the battery last night while working, put it back on, left the car off.
this morning turned on, let idle for 15 mins.
then drove as normal.
thats a reset, right? seriously cant really notice a sound change. yes im comparing to the short ram, but it sounds pretty similar to my mate's stock ep3...
I notice u r coming from a short ram. Maybe it would be louder than a CAI as it's much closer to the interior?
My CAI replaced the stock box so to me i wasn't bothered with the sound. My concern was the lost low end torque which was madeup once the cat back was installed.
Also my vtec crosses at around 6000rpm and the sound is noticable. But my car started to get loud from 5000 after I got some engine mount inserts fitted. Honestly I can't remember how it sounded b4 the mounts as it's been a long time.
So your vtec kicks in fine? No CEL?
No CEL, but for me the real test was the friend that took it for a spin, since he is running a stock ep3r, and has been for a while - so he could compare.
There was no cross over sound. He let it roll just before 6000, and then gave it short bursts, with no real difference besides higher revs.
Was that the proper way to reset the ECU? Should i try again?
How now brown cow?
Oh and it is still on stock mounts, running shell v power.
Comparing tunnel runs before to tonight's tunnel run, you can definitely hear the surge of acceleration, but no A to B crossover.
Btw no point taking it all apart. Just make sure all the clamps are tight and all the vaccum hoses are fitted fine.
As long as the engine runs normally (ie revs smoothly, no lost of power, vtec kicks in at 6000 and no CEL) then there isn't much wrong with it.
But in my car, when I just start it there is noticable sucking noise but it would get quiet after a while and u won't really hear the sucking noise until I rev the engine. However on my mates sportivo with similar design TRD CAI the noise is there all the time.